BITMAIN AntRouter R1: 1st wireless networking device with bitcoin mining chip

[Mikestang]

I burned out a nanofury usb stick by overclocking it from "50 bits" to "52 bits" (56 bits max), I would be wary of overclocking these little chips, especially since they do not have any active cooling.  It would only be a matter of time (couple weeks in the case of my stick) before the mining chip burns itself out.  And for a gain of ~2GH, is it really worth it?

[klondike_bar]

I burned out a nanofury usb stick by overclocking it from "50 bits" to "52 bits" (56 bits max), I would be wary of overclocking these little chips, especially since they do not have any active cooling.  It would only be a matter of time (couple weeks in the case of my stick) before the mining chip burns itself out.  And for a gain of ~2GH, is it really worth it?

technically i have two antrouters (1 still BNI[sealed]B) so would not be devestated. any link to your nanofury failure (which IIRC is actually a fitfury chip, hence the "56bit max"), curious if the chip, PCB, or something else failed.

I think bitmain is better system and am curious if there is an internal temperature probe to shutdown at 65C (or 80C, whatever it is on the S-series). My attitude is that if the R1 surface isn't TOO hot (ie stickminer hard-to-touch) then thermal failure is unlikely. the chip can push way further, my concern is what the DC/DC and AC/DC component limits are.

I tried to open the case with a pair of thin screwdrivers, but its surprisingly well-assembled. It seems like the case is a singular aluminum shell, and the hardware is slotted in from one end, capped with a plastic section (that refuses to pry/pop loose). There are no screwholes or other points of access to dissassemble.

Its a great device physically, I just want to see the UI improved with R1 asic stats, ability to change pools, and simplified network setup/instructions (I want it to be a wifi repeater, but changing that isnt easy)

[notlist3d]

I burned out a nanofury usb stick by overclocking it from "50 bits" to "52 bits" (56 bits max), I would be wary of overclocking these little chips, especially since they do not have any active cooling.  It would only be a matter of time (couple weeks in the case of my stick) before the mining chip burns itself out.  And for a gain of ~2GH, is it really worth it?

technically i have two antrouters (1 still BNI[sealed]B) so would not be devestated. any link to your nanofury failure (which IIRC is actually a fitfury chip, hence the "56bit max"), curious if the chip, PCB, or something else failed.

I think bitmain is better system and am curious if there is an internal temperature probe to shutdown at 65C (or 80C, whatever it is on the S-series). My attitude is that if the R1 surface isn't TOO hot (ie stickminer hard-to-touch) then thermal failure is unlikely. the chip can push way further, my concern is what the DC/DC and AC/DC component limits are.

I tried to open the case with a pair of thin screwdrivers, but its surprisingly well-assembled. It seems like the case is a singular aluminum shell, and the hardware is slotted in from one end, capped with a plastic section (that refuses to pry/pop loose). There are no screwholes or other points of access to dissassemble.

Its a great device physically, I just want to see the UI improved with R1 asic stats, ability to change pools, and simplified network setup/instructions (I want it to be a wifi repeater, but changing that isnt easy)

I'm surprised on all the setup complaints.  I have not got mine yet.  But it seems like BM should have had a screen select X as mode.   And pick what mode you want R1 to be in.

But sounds like that is not happening.  If you get it hot it appears to have holes on the case.  So likely you could push air though the case, and worry a little less about OCing.

[klondike_bar]

I burned out a nanofury usb stick by overclocking it from "50 bits" to "52 bits" (56 bits max), I would be wary of overclocking these little chips, especially since they do not have any active cooling.  It would only be a matter of time (couple weeks in the case of my stick) before the mining chip burns itself out.  And for a gain of ~2GH, is it really worth it?

technically i have two antrouters (1 still BNI[sealed]B) so would not be devestated. any link to your nanofury failure (which IIRC is actually a fitfury chip, hence the "56bit max"), curious if the chip, PCB, or something else failed.

I think bitmain is better system and am curious if there is an internal temperature probe to shutdown at 65C (or 80C, whatever it is on the S-series). My attitude is that if the R1 surface isn't TOO hot (ie stickminer hard-to-touch) then thermal failure is unlikely. the chip can push way further, my concern is what the DC/DC and AC/DC component limits are.

I tried to open the case with a pair of thin screwdrivers, but its surprisingly well-assembled. It seems like the case is a singular aluminum shell, and the hardware is slotted in from one end, capped with a plastic section (that refuses to pry/pop loose). There are no screwholes or other points of access to dissassemble.

Its a great device physically, I just want to see the UI improved with R1 asic stats, ability to change pools, and simplified network setup/instructions (I want it to be a wifi repeater, but changing that isnt easy)

I'm surprised on all the setup complaints.  I have not got mine yet.  But it seems like BM should have had a screen select X as mode.   And pick what mode you want R1 to be in.

But sounds like that is not happening.  If you get it hot it appears to have holes on the case.  So likely you could push air though the case, and worry a little less about OCing.

no holes, just a pattern of raised bumps (which dont do much, only 1-2mm). I used some small adhesive heatsinks to try and aid it at higher modes (7GH is probably the safe limit of passive)

[aarons6]

I burned out a nanofury usb stick by overclocking it from "50 bits" to "52 bits" (56 bits max), I would be wary of overclocking these little chips, especially since they do not have any active cooling.  It would only be a matter of time (couple weeks in the case of my stick) before the mining chip burns itself out.  And for a gain of ~2GH, is it really worth it?

technically i have two antrouters (1 still BNI[sealed]B) so would not be devestated. any link to your nanofury failure (which IIRC is actually a fitfury chip, hence the "56bit max"), curious if the chip, PCB, or something else failed.

I think bitmain is better system and am curious if there is an internal temperature probe to shutdown at 65C (or 80C, whatever it is on the S-series). My attitude is that if the R1 surface isn't TOO hot (ie stickminer hard-to-touch) then thermal failure is unlikely. the chip can push way further, my concern is what the DC/DC and AC/DC component limits are.

I tried to open the case with a pair of thin screwdrivers, but its surprisingly well-assembled. It seems like the case is a singular aluminum shell, and the hardware is slotted in from one end, capped with a plastic section (that refuses to pry/pop loose). There are no screwholes or other points of access to dissassemble.

Its a great device physically, I just want to see the UI improved with R1 asic stats, ability to change pools, and simplified network setup/instructions (I want it to be a wifi repeater, but changing that isnt easy)

no internal temp, at least not seen by cgminer.

[klondike_bar]

no internal temp, at least not seen by cgminer.

how did you pull that up? interested to see what hw error rate is at 8.55GH (2hrs sample)

[Mikestang]

any link to your nanofury failure (which IIRC is actually a fitfury chip, hence the "56bit max"), curious if the chip, PCB, or something else failed.

No, unfortunately.  It happened before I found this forum and I dealt directly with crytorig via ebay.  I threw the bad stick out, I should have saved it but it was before I knew better.

Maybe someone will sacrifice an R1 in the name of science and see how long it will run oc'd until it burns out.  Like 1 week at each incremental step up until the unit dies.

[klondike_bar]

any link to your nanofury failure (which IIRC is actually a fitfury chip, hence the "56bit max"), curious if the chip, PCB, or something else failed.

No, unfortunately.  It happened before I found this forum and I dealt directly with crytorig via ebay.  I threw the bad stick out, I should have saved it but it was before I knew better.

Maybe someone will sacrifice an R1 in the name of science and see how long it will run oc'd until it burns out.  Like 1 week at each incremental step up until the unit dies.

well I think I set the record at 8.52GH (156Mhz) with almost 3hrs run time. I know the chip can do more but i dont know what the other components are and at a 55% overclock assume they are near thier limits.

Im backing down for now, seeing if i can find a sweet spot around 7GH that does not require heatsinks or active cooling

[aarons6]

super good news everyone!!!!

with the help of LDP and some trial and error.. i got wired <> wireless bridge working and im seeing if i can do a wireless <> wireless bridge.

ill keep you guys informed.

[OgNasty]

super good news everyone!!!!

with the help of LDP and some trial and error.. i got wired <> wireless bridge working and im seeing if i can do a wireless <> wireless bridge.

ill keep you guys informed.

That is good news.  Now can you figure out how to change the pool?

[aarons6]

super good news everyone!!!!

with the help of LDP and some trial and error.. i got wired <> wireless bridge working and im seeing if i can do a wireless <> wireless bridge.

ill keep you guys informed.

That is good news.  Now can you figure out how to change the pool?

thats easy. just ssh into the device and change the /etc/init.d/cgminer script to point to another pool.

[notlist3d]

super good news everyone!!!!

with the help of LDP and some trial and error.. i got wired <> wireless bridge working and im seeing if i can do a wireless <> wireless bridge.

ill keep you guys informed.

That is good news.  Now can you figure out how to change the pool?

thats easy. just ssh into the device and change the /etc/init.d/cgminer script to point to another pool.

That is good news.   Does it reset if power is lost I'm guessing?

Also what does status screen look like when you change it to another pool?

[klondike_bar]

super good news everyone!!!!

with the help of LDP and some trial and error.. i got wired <> wireless bridge working and im seeing if i can do a wireless <> wireless bridge.

ill keep you guys informed.

That is good news.  Now can you figure out how to change the pool?

thats easy. just ssh into the device and change the /etc/init.d/cgminer script to point to another pool.

That is good news.   Does it reset if power is lost I'm guessing?

Also what does status screen look like when you change it to another pool?

AFAIK its saved (but if you use the reset button, EVERYTHING returns to default which is good to prevent bricking), and the status screen wont look any different, but may show your pool username in the email entry box

[notlist3d]

super good news everyone!!!!

with the help of LDP and some trial and error.. i got wired <> wireless bridge working and im seeing if i can do a wireless <> wireless bridge.

ill keep you guys informed.

That is good news.  Now can you figure out how to change the pool?

thats easy. just ssh into the device and change the /etc/init.d/cgminer script to point to another pool.

That is good news.   Does it reset if power is lost I'm guessing?

Also what does status screen look like when you change it to another pool?

AFAIK its saved (but if you use the reset button, EVERYTHING returns to default which is good to prevent bricking), and the status screen wont look any different, but may show your pool username in the email entry box

That is great news!  I like that it is saved, was not expecting that.   Can't wait till we see some modded firmware eventually.

And reset fixing it is nice in case of messing up.

[klondike_bar]

super good news everyone!!!!

with the help of LDP and some trial and error.. i got wired <> wireless bridge working and im seeing if i can do a wireless <> wireless bridge.

ill keep you guys informed.

That is good news.  Now can you figure out how to change the pool?

thats easy. just ssh into the device and change the /etc/init.d/cgminer script to point to another pool.

That is good news.   Does it reset if power is lost I'm guessing?

Also what does status screen look like when you change it to another pool?

AFAIK its saved (but if you use the reset button, EVERYTHING returns to default which is good to prevent bricking), and the status screen wont look any different, but may show your pool username in the email entry box

That is great news!  I like that it is saved, was not expecting that.   Can't wait till we see some modded firmware eventually.

And reset fixing it is nice in case of messing up.

seems to run quite comfortably at 7GH using 137MHz

[aarons6]

here is how to setup your R1 for bridged wired to wifi mode.. please excuse any typos.
you will need the program PUTTY
http://www.putty.org/


you CANT break anything. if something doesnt go right, just hold the reset button down for 5 seconds and start over.

special thanks to LDP who showed me how to add packages.. without that help we would be stuck.

step 1, hook up the R1 to your internet router.. make sure dhcp is enabled..
go in and find the IP your router gave it..



step 2, log into the router.. username root, password root..
you should come up to a screen just like any other bitmain device..
first thing, go under miner and set your bitmain username and hit save and apply.. it would suck to find a block and not get counted for it.. its a long shot, but it could happen.



then go under system, software and configuration and change the url to this and hit submit. nothing happens so dont worry.
http://downloads.openwrt.org/attitude_adjustment/12.09/ar71xx/generic/packages/



now go back to actions and update list. go to available packages and search for
luci-proto-relay install it.. this should install both of the packages you need.



Installing luci-proto-relay (0.11.1-1) to root...
Downloading http://downloads.openwrt.org/attitude_adjustment/12.09/ar71xx/generic/packages//luci-proto-relay_0.11.1-1_ar71xx.ipk.
Installing relayd (2011-10-24-4e8f1fa4ca2b176500362843a9e57ea5abd4b7a3) to root...
Downloading http://downloads.openwrt.org/attitude_adjustment/12.09/ar71xx/generic/packages//relayd_2011-10-24-4e8f1fa4ca2b176500362843a9e57ea5abd4b7a3_ar71xx.ipk.
Configuring relayd.
Configuring luci-proto-relay.




step 3, go into network, then wifi.. and remove the default wifi settings..



step 4, hit scan and connect to your home wifi.. leave all options default, just insert password, assign it to the LAN firewall, hit submit, then save and apply..




step 5, go into network, interfaces and choose the WWAN one and edit it.. change the protocol to static and insert an IP, netmask (255.255.255.0), your gateway (usually 192.168.1.1 or 10.0.0.1) and dns (google is 8.8.8.8 comcast is 75.75.75.75). leave DHCP OFF. hit save and apply.
it seems to get stuck here, saying waiting for changes to apply... you probably will have to click on status and it will ask you to relog in..




step 6, go into network, WAN, under firewall settings, put it in the LAN firewall. again it might get stuck. relog in, go to network, then firewall and choose accept for all the of the LAN dropdowns.





at this point you need to reboot the R1 (just unplug and plug it back in), unplug your LAN and connect your web browser to the IP you assigned the WWAN.

step 7, go into network, WAN and edit. change the protocol to static and put this IP in.. 192.168.2.1 and 255.255.255.0 as netmask, then 192.168.1.1 as gateway and dns 8.8.8.8 or 75.75.75.75 (change to 10.0.0.1 if this is what you use) hit save and apply.
again it might get stuck.. just hit status and relog in.




step 8, go into network, interfaces, add new interface, name it relay, choose Relay bridge as the protocol and hit submit. you will then choose to relay between networks WAN and WWAN. Do not worry about the ipv4 address, leave it blank and hit save and apply.
again it might get stuck.. just hit status and relog in.




reboot the r1 by unplugging it and plugging it back in.

now this is where things get a little tricky.. you need to enable the relayd we installed in step 2..
using putty.. log into the R1 issue this commands.



/etc/init.d/relayd enable
/etc/init.d/dnsmasq restart
/etc/init.d/firewall restart
reboot


at this point you can be done and it will work in wired to wifi bridge mode..
but if you also want wifi to wifi bridge keep going..
 
step9, go into network and WIFI and ADD wifi device. name it anything you want, something DIFFERENT then your home wifi. mode access point. check the create box and name it WWANB, dont forget securty, and hit SAVE..




now you should see a new interface WWANB.. select it and hit edit and go to advanced settings and check the box, then assign it to the LAN firewall and hit SAVE



now edit the relay interface and add wwanb to it.. save and apply..


at this point you will probably get kicked off the R1s IP it will display web page not available... because we just setup a new wifi and well it kind changed a few things internally.. you gotta just reboot it.


you should have a fully functioning wireless bridge with wireless relay.

[ldp]

OpenWrt Chaos Calmer Pre-Alpha.

Substantial Risk exists ... you may brick your device!

This is for ADVANCED USERS ONLY.

If you brick your new toy don't cry....you have been warned.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0CKglNyN0URdXFadlN1RW9jZW8

You should be ready to recover your device with a serial console.

http://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/hardware/port.serial

A modified bootloader is also available.

https://github.com/pinney/AR93xx-u-boot_mod

[notlist3d]

OpenWrt Chaos Calmer Pre-Alpha.

Substantial Risk exists ... you may brick your device!

This is for ADVANCED USERS ONLY.

If you brick your new toy don't cry....you have been warned.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0CKglNyN0URdXFadlN1RW9jZW8

You should be ready to recover your device with a serial console.

http://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/hardware/port.serial

A modified bootloader is also available.

https://github.com/pinney/AR93xx-u-boot_mod

First  modded firmware!  It is nice to see.  I don't have mine yet so can't try it or not.

But shows a lot of promise to even have this already.  We should thank bitmain for not locking down firmware.

[klondike_bar]

OpenWrt Chaos Calmer Pre-Alpha.

Substantial Risk exists ... you may brick your device!

This is for ADVANCED USERS ONLY.

If you brick your new toy don't cry....you have been warned.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0CKglNyN0URdXFadlN1RW9jZW8

You should be ready to recover your device with a serial console.

http://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/hardware/port.serial

I can tell you that gaining serial access to the PCB is going to be tough. I tried/failed to open up my R1 and its very well assembled, no screwholes and parts dont easily pry free

[ldp]

The Modified Bootloader is considered by many to be "unbrickable"

It's only a matter of time before someone manages to get one open.
Then others can benefit from the experience ...