Mudbankkeith
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October 15, 2013, 09:03:48 AM |
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I got some of the Orico p10-u3-bk 10 Port USB 3 hubs from dx.com before they ran out of stock ( http://dx.com/p/orico-p10-u3-bk-10-port-usb-3-0-hub-w-indicator-led-switch-external-power-adapter-black-231977) Comes with a 12V 4A power brick (i.e. 48W), uses a figure-8 mains power lead. So for 10 USB miners, the PSU will be running at just over half its rated output according to the labelMuch better USB sockets than the $10 10 port USB 2.0 hub "sticks" I have. And at $56 each, no wonder they sold out With Windows, works fine so far with 10 miners plugged in, running for 15 minutes so far. I'm using 6 of these hubs 24/7. The power brick needs some cooling. (3 replacement power supplies in 3 months) Don't forget USB3 is no good on a Pi.
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dalcebolus
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Activity: 96
Merit: 10
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October 15, 2013, 09:06:45 AM |
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Did anyone try USB 3.0 hubs connected through a USB 2.0 hub and then to the raspi? I got some of the Orico p10-u3-bk 10 Port USB 3 hubs from dx.com before they ran out of stock ( http://dx.com/p/orico-p10-u3-bk-10-port-usb-3-0-hub-w-indicator-led-switch-external-power-adapter-black-231977) Comes with a 12V 4A power brick (i.e. 48W), uses a figure-8 mains power lead. So for 10 USB miners, the PSU will be running at just over half its rated output according to the labelMuch better USB sockets than the $10 10 port USB 2.0 hub "sticks" I have. And at $56 each, no wonder they sold out With Windows, works fine so far with 10 miners plugged in, running for 15 minutes so far. I'm using 6 of these hubs 24/7. The power brick needs some cooling. (3 replacement power supplies in 3 months) Don't forget USB3 is no good on a Pi.
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pidge
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Activity: 101
Merit: 10
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October 15, 2013, 10:06:53 AM |
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I'm using 6 of these hubs 24/7. The power brick needs some cooling. (3 replacement power supplies in 3 months) Don't forget USB3 is no good on a Pi. Right, I'll get some DC leads and power the hub from an ATX PSU then
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Mudbankkeith
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October 15, 2013, 10:18:51 AM |
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I'm using 6 of these hubs 24/7. The power brick needs some cooling. (3 replacement power supplies in 3 months) Don't forget USB3 is no good on a Pi. Right, I'll get some DC leads and power the hub from an ATX PSU then I tried that and the power draw, at the wall, nearly doubled. Then my ATX psu tripped, the cooling fan was not adjusting to the 12v rail demands, only the 5v rail, and that was idle.
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Nemo1024 (OP)
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Activity: 1680
Merit: 1014
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October 15, 2013, 10:23:44 AM |
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I am powering more than half of my BEs from ATX PSUs on USB 2.0 D-Link (and one Rosewill) hubs (drawing 5V). Older PSUs work like a charm. Tried a newer Corsair 600GS and discovered at it did not manage to power the hubs that well. It is rated at 25A (just like one old PSU), but manages to power only 6 BEs per hub, whereas the old one tackles the full load of 7 without breaking a sweat. I only draw 5V. There is no load on 12V contacts. https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=253749.msg3223688#msg3223688
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“Dark times lie ahead of us and there will be a time when we must choose between what is easy and what is right.” “We are only as strong as we are united, as weak as we are divided.” “It is important to fight and fight again, and keep fighting, for only then can evil be kept at bay, though never quite eradicated.”
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Mudbankkeith
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October 15, 2013, 10:36:30 AM |
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I am powering more than half of my BEs from ATX PSUs on USB 2.0 D-Link (and one Rosewill) hubs (drawing 5V). Older PSUs work like a charm. Tried a newer Corsair 600GS and discovered at it did not manage to power the hubs that well. It is rated at 25A (just like one old PSU), but manages to power only 6 BEs per hub, whereas the old one tackles the full load of 7 without breaking a sweat. I only draw 5V. There is no load on 12V contacts. https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=253749.msg3223688#msg3223688Maybe I should get some more D-link hubs, Then I can split the load on the ATX PSU between the 12v and 5v rails. There is so much equipment out there that is not quite the same, but still in spec.
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terrapinflyer
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October 16, 2013, 02:25:35 AM |
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Im having a hard time understanding where to start on this project. I want to power 10 D-link 7 Port Hubs off an old ATX power supply. I have scoured this tread and I see that a few of you are doing it already. My problem is exactly what I already stated that I have no idea where to start because I am almost fully retarded when it comes to electricity. As far as I can understand I need to take the 5v wires and add a barrel plug for each hub. I dont want to fry myself or my hubs could someone please give me some 8th grade level help on this?
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Nemo1024 (OP)
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Activity: 1680
Merit: 1014
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October 16, 2013, 10:48:37 AM |
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The easiest way to go is to take the cable with the barrel plug that already fits your hub. In other words, cut it off from the wall adapter. Then you'll need the other end, something to connect to you PSU. For that, a cut off Molex splitters work fine. Then you need to figure out where (+) wire on the barrel cable is. It is usually noted on the wall adapter if (+) is in the centre or on the outer ring. You can use some 1,5 volt battery and some appliance to determine which wire is connected to the outer ring. On D-Link and Rosewill the (+) wire was marked with long dashes. Connect red wire to the (+) wire of the barrel cable. Connect the black wire to the (-) wire of the barrel cable. Double-check the above. Triple-check the above. The result will look something like this: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=253749.msg3223688#msg3223688Now, short the green-wired connector to the black one of the ATX PSU to power it up and connect your newly spliced Molex->barrel cable. Connect to the hub. If it seems to work, connect one BE. Still working? Good. Connect the USB cable and try hashing. Connect the rest. When powering down, ALWAYS disconnect the USB cable first before powering down the hub.
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“Dark times lie ahead of us and there will be a time when we must choose between what is easy and what is right.” “We are only as strong as we are united, as weak as we are divided.” “It is important to fight and fight again, and keep fighting, for only then can evil be kept at bay, though never quite eradicated.”
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Mudbankkeith
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October 16, 2013, 10:56:29 AM Last edit: October 16, 2013, 06:45:27 PM by Mudbankkeith |
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Im having a hard time understanding where to start on this project. I want to power 10 D-link 7 Port Hubs off an old ATX power supply. I have scoured this tread and I see that a few of you are doing it already. My problem is exactly what I already stated that I have no idea where to start because I am almost fully retarded when it comes to electricity. As far as I can understand I need to take the 5v wires and add a barrel plug for each hub. I dont want to fry myself or my hubs could someone please give me some 8th grade level help on this?
This site may have what you need edit:- replacement connectors http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271266632312?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
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terrapinflyer
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October 16, 2013, 06:40:14 PM |
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The easiest way to go is to take the cable with the barrel plug that already fits your hub. In other words, cut it off from the wall adapter. Then you'll need the other end, something to connect to you PSU. For that, a cut off Molex splitters work fine. Then you need to figure out where (+) wire on the barrel cable is. It is usually noted on the wall adapter if (+) is in the centre or on the outer ring. You can use some 1,5 volt battery and some appliance to determine which wire is connected to the outer ring. On D-Link and Rosewill the (+) wire was marked with long dashes. Connect red wire to the (+) wire of the barrel cable. Connect the black wire to the (-) wire of the barrel cable. Double-check the above. Triple-check the above. The result will look something like this: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=253749.msg3223688#msg3223688Now, short the green-wired connector to the black one of the ATX PSU to power it up and connect your newly spliced Molex->barrel cable. Connect to the hub. If it seems to work, connect one BE. Still working? Good. Connect the USB cable and try hashing. Connect the rest. When powering down, ALWAYS disconnect the USB cable first before powering down the hub. Thanks for the explanation. Im going to try this later this week.
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sacskate
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October 18, 2013, 03:34:52 PM |
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This is an update on the MCM hubs. As I've mentioned in my initial review, it supports seven miners. There are only 46 miners on this setup; 1+2 rear ports on the last two hubs respectively are not populated (waiting for more miners to come in): ...and here they are in action: http://s1330.photobucket.com/user/visdude/media/MVI_0112_zps64f2f52e.mp4.htmlThe hub stands/bases were originally affixed onto the desk ( here) but I found it to be inflexible and inconvenient. So, I got a cheapo clipboard and a roll of masking tape at the local 99-cent store and made a movable platform out of it to organize the hubs. This setup is ideal with these hubs since one can just pull it from the base and work on it independently from the rest (modular). Partly seen in the lower right hand corner of the image is another hub. I have started to create another row of seven MCM-type generic hubs (all black this time) along the other side of the clipboard. I'm pairing them with 4A bricks (much better alternative than wall warts in that it does not waste and occupy two outlets on the power strip). It comes out a little cheaper than MCM's without being subjected to exorbitant shipping charges and applicable sales tax. I would also have a bit of a headroom power wise (.5A more). The setup is currently hosted through a single USB 2.0 port on an old netbook and draws 11W off the wall while mining. I just bought 6 of these hubs from MCM. Two of them are dead, one I have to wiggle the ac adapter barrel to get to work and one that windows says is bad. Four of them are working however not well. I can only get 3 be's running in the hubs. I have mine orientated where the heatsink of the be's is facing up. If I plug anything into the bottom 2 ports they either just dont work or stop the top 3 from working. This happens on any of the 4 working hubs. Any advice?
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Mudbankkeith
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October 18, 2013, 05:15:29 PM |
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This is an update on the MCM hubs. As I've mentioned in my initial review, it supports seven miners. There are only 46 miners on this setup; 1+2 rear ports on the last two hubs respectively are not populated (waiting for more miners to come in): ...and here they are in action: http://s1330.photobucket.com/user/visdude/media/MVI_0112_zps64f2f52e.mp4.htmlThe hub stands/bases were originally affixed onto the desk ( here) but I found it to be inflexible and inconvenient. So, I got a cheapo clipboard and a roll of masking tape at the local 99-cent store and made a movable platform out of it to organize the hubs. This setup is ideal with these hubs since one can just pull it from the base and work on it independently from the rest (modular). Partly seen in the lower right hand corner of the image is another hub. I have started to create another row of seven MCM-type generic hubs (all black this time) along the other side of the clipboard. I'm pairing them with 4A bricks (much better alternative than wall warts in that it does not waste and occupy two outlets on the power strip). It comes out a little cheaper than MCM's without being subjected to exorbitant shipping charges and applicable sales tax. I would also have a bit of a headroom power wise (.5A more). The setup is currently hosted through a single USB 2.0 port on an old netbook and draws 11W off the wall while mining. I just bought 6 of these hubs from MCM. Two of them are dead, one I have to wiggle the ac adapter barrel to get to work and one that windows says is bad. Four of them are working however not well. I can only get 3 be's running in the hubs. I have mine orientated where the heatsink of the be's is facing up. If I plug anything into the bottom 2 ports they either just dont work or stop the top 3 from working. This happens on any of the 4 working hubs. Any advice? Where can I find those USB extenders?
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Nemo1024 (OP)
Legendary
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Activity: 1680
Merit: 1014
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October 18, 2013, 07:10:57 PM |
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“Dark times lie ahead of us and there will be a time when we must choose between what is easy and what is right.” “We are only as strong as we are united, as weak as we are divided.” “It is important to fight and fight again, and keep fighting, for only then can evil be kept at bay, though never quite eradicated.”
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Mudbankkeith
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October 18, 2013, 08:30:25 PM |
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I'm looking to try to fit 5 BlueFury's to a D-link 7 port hub. Ports 1 & 7 need an extender, then 2,4 & 6 will work as normal.
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jdkackley
Member
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Activity: 68
Merit: 10
Just a guy
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October 18, 2013, 11:57:47 PM |
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I'm looking to try to fit 5 BlueFury's to a D-link 7 port hub. Ports 1 & 7 need an extender, then 2,4 & 6 will work as normal. I have a feeling that all the ports on that hub will need extenders
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sacskate
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October 19, 2013, 12:05:05 AM |
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Do not buy the 7 port hubs from MCM Electronics! I bought 6 and could only power 3 erupters on each. The psu they came with says 5v 3.5a right on it, that can not be true. I used a 5v 3a psu, from a dlink hub, with the mcm hubs and it ran 6 with no problems. I feel scammed....p
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Mudbankkeith
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October 19, 2013, 08:53:14 AM |
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Do not buy the 7 port hubs from MCM Electronics! I bought 6 and could only power 3 erupters on each. The psu they came with says 5v 3.5a right on it, that can not be true. I used a 5v 3a psu, from a dlink hub, with the mcm hubs and it ran 6 with no problems. I feel scammed....p
I bought 2 similar hubs from hong kong, psu was 5v 1.5a, and failed to power anything.
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Mudbankkeith
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October 19, 2013, 08:58:53 AM |
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I'm looking to try to fit 5 BlueFury's to a D-link 7 port hub. Ports 1 & 7 need an extender, then 2,4 & 6 will work as normal. I have a feeling that all the ports on that hub will need extenders The D-link hub should have enough space for 4 BlueFury's using ports 1,3,5 & 7 But it should have enough power for 5 devices, then I will use ports 2,4 & 6 normally and ports 1 & 7 with extenders.
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