daemonfox
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November 07, 2013, 12:42:08 PM |
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Thanks for the answers... did not realize WinUSB vs FTDI was that hot of a topic...
On a Chili note... found that an older Alienware case I had collected a couple years back had a high end 650W PSU in it that still worked... WOOOOOO!
Gutted the thing, tested the PSU for a few hours after shorting the 20 pin (yes I said it was old jeez) and tested all the fans that were in the thing (4 LED riddled 80mms) after cleaning them.
I moved the Chili downstairs to this case and used an old HP netbook to connect and start mining. Downstairs is about 6-8 degrees cooler ambient and WOW... that made a huge difference... now 34 GH/s stable and my main rig is now free again.
I have one more thing to do, had a few old GPUs that had nice heatsink fan combos on them... gutted those cleaned them and had a pal of mine fab some brackets to fit the screw pattern for the Arctic Accelero TT II so I can use them to mount this as a backplate instead of the 9 mini heatsinks I was using. I am hoping this gives me a way to eliminate board flew and more force on the chips, so better cooling, and the addition of a fan underneath venting the heat straight away from the board.
Just waiting on some more TIM now.
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krayzie32
Sr. Member
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Activity: 479
Merit: 250
https://streamies.io/
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November 07, 2013, 02:34:11 PM |
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Good luck selling, did you try eBay those people tend to buy products that will never ROI. At 2.6 coins at current price that thing will never ROI, well it would if difficulty would plummet to only increasing 35% a month and then you would atleast level get .04 coins out of it.
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Bogart
Legendary
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Activity: 966
Merit: 1000
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November 07, 2013, 02:36:09 PM |
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In theory I'll be receiving some super-late-delivery chips here soon if Mr. unresponsive seller has indeed shipped them to me.
I assume I'm too late to have y'all put them onto boards for me, yes?
I'll have enough for 10 or maybe 11 Chilis.
Lucko/Form would seem to be my other option, though keeping everything in the states seems like it would be easier.
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"All safe deposit boxes in banks or financial institutions have been sealed... and may only be opened in the presence of an agent of the I.R.S." - President F.D. Roosevelt, 1933
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Bargraphics
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November 07, 2013, 02:40:41 PM |
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Good luck selling, did you try eBay those people tend to buy products that will never ROI. At 2.6 coins at current price that thing will never ROI, well it would if difficulty would plummet to only increasing 35% a month and then you would atleast level get .04 coins out of it. 35% forever is unrealistic, there will be some large jumps and then when difficulty gets a certain height the jumps will only be 5-10%
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Bogart
Legendary
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Activity: 966
Merit: 1000
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November 07, 2013, 03:22:37 PM |
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Meh. The Chili plug is somewhat appropriate for this thread, but a plug for a pool is not. Please remove it.
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"All safe deposit boxes in banks or financial institutions have been sealed... and may only be opened in the presence of an agent of the I.R.S." - President F.D. Roosevelt, 1933
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daemonfox
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November 07, 2013, 03:54:15 PM |
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Meh. The Chili plug is somewhat appropriate for this thread, but a plug for a pool is not. Please remove it.
WOW... wasn't even given a chance to change the post before it was deleted for me.
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asjfdlksfd
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November 08, 2013, 12:48:56 AM |
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Hi,
I'm searching the post with the different power consumption values of different Hashing speeds. Can anybody help me? Why I'm asking? If the difficulty will grow more and more I would like to throttle the boards down to a value of the best hashing rates / watt. The only post I've found was a 180 W at 35 GH/s which is 5,14 W/GH/s My original Little single need 125 W from wall at 30 GH/s which is 4,17 W/GH/s
Cheers...
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agibby5
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November 08, 2013, 12:52:40 AM |
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Hi,
I'm searching the post with the different power consumption values of different Hashing speeds. Can anybody help me? Why I'm asking? If the difficulty will grow more and more I would like to throttle the boards down to a value of the best hashing rates / watt. The only post I've found was a 180 W at 35 GH/s which is 5,14 W/GH/s My original Little single need 125 W from wall at 30 GH/s which is 4,17 W/GH/s
Cheers...
I agree that it's hard to find things with the search. I think this info should be copied to the OP along with ideas as to what needs to be purchased to make one of these run.
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jborkl
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November 08, 2013, 01:59:05 AM |
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To answer the questions.
You will need a power supply with a 6 in pcie You will need a Higher end CPU cooler or GPU cooler.
I have been having very good luck with the dual antec kuhler shelf setup. This also makes a nice stand for the card. I have also been having very very good results with the corsair H60.
The cards HAVE to have a backplate,or they will have trouble booting (blinking or solid lights).
The boards will still connect but not hash in this state. It is poor contact or poor cooling (same thing).
The boards flex easily and even if you can not see it, it will make your board 1. Not boot, blink 2. Boot , throw a high hash rate but all errors 3. Hash slowly.
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jborkl
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November 08, 2013, 02:22:28 AM |
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Nicknamed mine the chilibug. $32 cooling keeps it at 55c
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daemonfox
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November 08, 2013, 12:53:28 PM Last edit: November 08, 2013, 06:42:04 PM by daemonfox |
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To answer the questions.
You will need a power supply with a 6 in pcie You will need a Higher end CPU cooler or GPU cooler.
I have been having very good luck with the dual antec kuhler shelf setup. This also makes a nice stand for the card. I have also been having very very good results with the corsair H60.
The cards HAVE to have a backplate,or they will have trouble booting (blinking or solid lights).
The boards will still connect but not hash in this state. It is poor contact or poor cooling (same thing).
The boards flex easily and even if you can not see it, it will make your board 1. Not boot, blink 2. Boot , throw a high hash rate but all errors 3. Hash slowly.
More detail please... TIM or paste on chips? TIM or insulator and paste on the bottom? Hashrate using the Chilibug setup and the dual shelf setup? 1,2 and 3 are not 100% correct... I want more hashes... but I am 33-34 GH/s @ 70C with only the Arctic Accelero TT II no backplate using just Fujipoly TIM on the chips and thermal adhesive + mini heatsinks under the chips and VRMs. EDIT: and where did you get an H60 for $32?
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Mudbankkeith
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November 08, 2013, 01:13:28 PM |
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To answer the questions.
You will need a power supply with a 6 in pcie You will need a Higher end CPU cooler or GPU cooler.
I have been having very good luck with the dual antec kuhler shelf setup. This also makes a nice stand for the card. I have also been having very very good results with the corsair H60.
The cards HAVE to have a backplate,or they will have trouble booting (blinking or solid lights).
The boards will still connect but not hash in this state. It is poor contact or poor cooling (same thing).
The boards flex easily and even if you can not see it, it will make your board 1. Not boot, blink 2. Boot , throw a high hash rate but all errors 3. Hash slowly.
More detail please... TIM or paste on chips? TIM or insulator and paste on the bottom? Hashrate using the Chilibug setup and the dual shelf setup? 1,2 and 3 are not 100% correct... I want more hashes... but I am 33-34 GH/s @ 70C with only the Arctic Accelero TT II no backplate using just Fulpoly TIM on the chips and thermal adhesive + mini heatsinks under the chips and VRMs. EDIT: and where did you get an H60 for $32? With extra cooling ABOVE the mosfets, I gained another 5Gh up from 32 to 37
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BTc donations welcome:- 13c2KuzWCaWFTXF171Zn1HrKhMYARPKv97
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one4many
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November 08, 2013, 04:03:44 PM |
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I try identify the form factor of the USB connection on the board. Is it mini USB .... or micro USB?
one4many
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Mudbankkeith
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November 08, 2013, 04:07:29 PM |
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I try identify the form factor of the USB connection on the board. Is it mini USB .... or micro USB?
one4many
Mini edit :- and I think the mini is also a better connector (shame that the EU are forcing us to go micro)
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BTc donations welcome:- 13c2KuzWCaWFTXF171Zn1HrKhMYARPKv97
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MrTeal (OP)
Legendary
Offline
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1004
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November 08, 2013, 04:07:54 PM |
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I try identify the form factor of the USB connection on the board. Is it mini USB .... or micro USB?
one4many
It's a 5 pin Mini-B.
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Spieder
Member
Offline
Activity: 66
Merit: 10
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November 08, 2013, 06:35:27 PM Last edit: November 08, 2013, 06:50:25 PM by Spieder |
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To answer the questions.
You will need a power supply with a 6 in pcie You will need a Higher end CPU cooler or GPU cooler.
I have been having very good luck with the dual antec kuhler shelf setup. This also makes a nice stand for the card. I have also been having very very good results with the corsair H60.
The cards HAVE to have a backplate,or they will have trouble booting (blinking or solid lights).
The boards will still connect but not hash in this state. It is poor contact or poor cooling (same thing).
The boards flex easily and even if you can not see it, it will make your board 1. Not boot, blink 2. Boot , throw a high hash rate but all errors 3. Hash slowly.
More detail please... TIM or paste on chips? TIM or insulator and paste on the bottom? Hashrate using the Chilibug setup and the dual shelf setup? 1,2 and 3 are not 100% correct... I want more hashes... but I am 33-34 GH/s @ 70C with only the Arctic Accelero TT II no backplate using just Fulpoly TIM on the chips and thermal adhesive + mini heatsinks under the chips and VRMs. EDIT: and where did you get an H60 for $32? With extra cooling ABOVE the mosfets, I gained another 5Gh up from 32 to 37 I was trying out different coolers last night and noticed something about the chips. The chips aren't just at different heights but are slanted in different directions. They are slanted so much that the Fulpoly TIM wasn't thick enough to make up the difference. For my first setup I applied Arctic Silver on top of my TIM and reached 36 Ghz. On my subsequent tries with just the TIM I was topping out at 29 to 30 Ghz. When I took the coolers off and looked at the TIM I could clearly see how uneven the chips were. I put Arctic back on top and I was able to get 36 Ghz again. My thoughts are add some grease to your TIM or add a second layer of TIM to thicken it up.
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Spieder
Member
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Activity: 66
Merit: 10
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November 08, 2013, 06:49:16 PM |
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Mr. Teal,
Any good news on how the rework went?
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daemonfox
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November 08, 2013, 06:49:58 PM |
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I was trying out different coolers last night and noticed something about the chips. The chips aren't just at different heights but are slanted in different directions.
They are slanted so much that the fuji TIM wasn't thick enough to make up the difference. For my first setup I applied Arctic Silver on top of my TIM and reached 36 Ghz. On my subsequent tries with just the TIM I was topping out at 29 to 30 Ghz. When I took the coolers off and looked at the TIM I could clearly see how uneven the chips were. I put Arctic back on top and I was able to get 36 Ghz again.
My thoughts are add some grease to your TIM or add a second layer of TIM to thicken it up.
I had my suspicions on this... the first time i unmounted my cooler and looked at the heatsink surface... in the right light I could see the outline of where the TIM had pressure on the surface. A couple spots looked like there might be less contact but not congruent with where board flex would have it... like the ships were not level. So you are saying you put TIM on the chips... then paste on the TIM? So paste to the cooler base? Or do you mean paste on the chips, then TIM on top to cooler base?
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Spieder
Member
Offline
Activity: 66
Merit: 10
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November 08, 2013, 06:53:11 PM |
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Put the TIM against the chips and added grease on top of the TIM. The grease comes in contact with the base of the heatsink, not the chips.
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