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Author Topic: Cointerra Hardware Support **Unofficial  (Read 56743 times)
derel1cte
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July 23, 2014, 09:30:52 PM
 #181

Okay thanks JoseSan... I'll give it a try. It appears though my woes with Cointerra are more serious than beaglebone. Both of the hashing boards are over heating badly. I saw a reference to some videos on how to repair the cointerra boards by reapplying thermal paste. I looked for the videos but could not find them on Youtube. Can someone please post the link for the videos. It looks like I am going to have to perform a full repair on this piece of crap hardware. Ugh!


Hey mmfiore,

I've done the thermal paste reapplication. its pretty easy.

1. completely remove the processor block/radiator assemblies from the system. You will need to disconnect the power wires from the boards as well since they weave between the hoses.
2. Completely remove all the old thermal paste and clean the the blocks and processors using 90%+ isotrophyl alcohol and q-tips.
3. Apply thermal compound only to each processor, not the pump blocks. About the size of a BB on each core. I prefer "Innovative Cooling Diamond 24 Carat". It will get you results similar to the "Liquid Pro" many others are using but doesn't have the shorting risks of conductive paste.
4. line up the block above the processor and get the mounting screws started. Do not apply downward pressure on the block until all 4 screws are started.
5. Apply firm pressure straight down on the block and tighten all the mounting screws.

Done.
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July 24, 2014, 01:45:32 AM
 #182

Thanks derel1cte for the reply. I guess I will give it a try. What do I have to lose. Right now I can hash faster with a pencil and paper than the damned Cointerra at full power.



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marvinmartian
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July 26, 2014, 05:21:45 PM
 #183

You don't need to completely remove the entire cooling assembly.  The block hoses should have just enough play in them so they can be set out of the way.  It may depend on how your power cables are set up.  On mine, they weren't an issue.

Perhaps most important, use some guides to keep the block in place when screwing it back in.  I used 3" wood dowels (chopsticks) sharpened on both ends.  You don't want the block moving around and smearing your paste all over as you screw it back in place.

"... and the geeks shall inherit the earth."
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July 28, 2014, 01:30:46 AM
 #184

Thanks for the extra tips MarvinMartian I will perform the operation next week and let everyone know how it goes. My heat syncing compound should arrive next week.



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Icicle2
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July 28, 2014, 05:38:27 PM
 #185


Bad pumps show as 0 RPM in the admin panel, iirc the boards will start with a pump failure.

Hello Patrick, how nice to see you around on Bitcointalk again. How's the dog?

My seven year old daughter, Anna, is wondering when you are going to return our 51 bitcoins trapped in Intersango, which you promised to return to us last October, so that her dog, Buddy, can get his long overdue heart operation.

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July 28, 2014, 10:35:03 PM
 #186


Bad pumps show as 0 RPM in the admin panel, iirc the boards will start with a pump failure.

Hello Patrick, how nice to see you around on Bitcointalk again. How's the dog?

My seven year old daughter, Anna, is wondering when you are going to return our 51 bitcoins trapped in Intersango, which you promised to return to us last October, so that her dog, Buddy, can get his long overdue heart operation.



Damn 51 coins is a good chunk of money, hopefully you get those back but highly unlikely. Every coin I see go missing never gets returned. That goes for USD too-
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July 29, 2014, 06:33:06 PM
 #187

I decided to send another request to support through the cointerra website asking specifically what the D45 RED LED means and how can I fix it. This is the reply I got. What a fucking bitch and Fuck CoinTerra  Angry

Hi ,

We are not currently releasing that information.

Best regards,

Laura
CoinTerra Support Team
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July 29, 2014, 06:58:55 PM
 #188

I decided to send another request to support through the cointerra website asking specifically what the D45 RED LED means and how can I fix it. This is the reply I got. What a fucking bitch and Fuck CoinTerra  Angry

Hi ,

We are not currently releasing that information.

Best regards,

Laura
CoinTerra Support Team

I got pretty much the same response from Marshall when I was having overheating issues. I sent him an email asking which core was which so I could narrow down the ones that were getting hot and he told me he could not comment on that. Cointerra will not help their customers in any way.
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July 30, 2014, 03:41:40 PM
 #189

Folks,  seems like this is probably a non-starter given all the complaints I am seeing about Cointerra support.  But...  barring building my own controller to bypass the beaglebone, (perhaps Raspberry Pi?) is there any way to recompile or otherwise change the cgminer version in the stock 0.7.6 firmware? I'm running into an issue on NiceHash pool where I am getting 80%+ rejects that has been identified as the following:

This error means that your miner modified ntime too many seconds ahead which means that the target pool may refuse such shares. Some pools may permit some seconds ahead and some may not, but we don't know which do and which don't so we do not allow ntime to be rolled more than current time (we don't permit rolling into the future). I would suggest you to contact ASIC developer and request a fix on mining software/firmware. Miner should always exhaust extranonce range first, before doing ntime rolling.

So basically, I need to use a different cgminer....

Is anyone in fact using a Raspberry Pi to control their terraminer? I am using one for my Scrypt Zeusminers....  love it! Would be nice to have a bit more freedom...

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July 31, 2014, 05:27:45 AM
 #190


So basically, I need to use a different cgminer....


Are you sure the date isn't wrong on the Beaglebone?
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July 31, 2014, 08:11:53 AM
 #191

This is like a slap to the face. Look what Cointerra is selling now.

http://cointerra.com/product/non-warranty-repair/
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July 31, 2014, 09:20:50 AM
 #192

This is not linked on the cointerra homepage, is it some kind of "private link" only issued by cointerra to enquiring customers via customer services, i suppose?
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July 31, 2014, 06:37:25 PM
 #193

This is like a slap to the face. Look what Cointerra is selling now.

http://cointerra.com/product/non-warranty-repair/

Wow.  That is one very large pile of bull****.

"... and the geeks shall inherit the earth."
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July 31, 2014, 07:09:53 PM
 #194

If you have a Cointerra machine and you feel they haven't lived up to their promised service or performance, here's another link you can try to get some resolution.  You won't have to pay for it either:

http://www.bbb.org/central-texas/Business-Reviews/virtual-currency/cointerra-inc-in-austin-tx-1000104440/

"... and the geeks shall inherit the earth."
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August 01, 2014, 01:21:08 AM
 #195

So, I have basically fixed my "1 core dead" issue by pump replacement + Liquid Pro.

These pumps are like shit, burn too easily.

Now I am left with the only problem, of "half board not receiving power" and the PSU is showing an orange little light.

I tried to pull off everything from the faulty board, even the power supply black / red cable.  PSU turns back to double green light.  Problem should therefore on the board.

Any successful story out there for fixing this orange light issue?  Undecided
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August 01, 2014, 08:54:13 AM
 #196

Hi there. I am running a early Jan (hm, I mean late Feb) batch Terraminer. It ran fine the last months, but yesterday one board stopped hashing. The pump is listed as 0 pump speed.
Which alternative pump do you suggest? Are they easy to replace? I just saw single alternative pumps and not a double system like Cointerrra build.

Thanks for helping.
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August 02, 2014, 02:11:40 AM
 #197

I would like to thank all you good people for the good advice and technical support. I received my Innovative Cooling Diamond 24 Carat thermal paste yesterday and today I took my cointerra apart removing the cooling blocks and cleaning off all the shitty cointerra paste. I reapplied the Diamond 24 smearing a thin coat over the chips and then a bb sized drop in the middle. I reattached the heat sync blocks and fired the machine up. It is now running better than when cointerra shipped it to me. Temperatures have dropped from 120 plus to 50s and 60s. The crashing has completely gone away. I tell you it is bringing tears to my eyes. This thing has never run this good. Gentlemen my hat is off to you guys. Hip Hip hurray!  Cheesy



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August 02, 2014, 06:04:07 AM
 #198


 Hi All,


I live in a country where it was hard to find Coollaboratory Liquid Pro

will Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra be okay ?? i found and bought 2 packs but just need a heads up on that

thanks in advance
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August 02, 2014, 07:59:55 AM
Last edit: August 02, 2014, 08:24:03 AM by trixter
 #199

I didnt see some of this posted elsewhere so I thought I would add to this thread.  Some may be mentioned elsewhere I did not search for everything I am putting in this post because of the size and scope of what I am contributing.  This post also turned out to be much larger than I had originally intended, sorry bout that for anyone who dislikes reading or pays per kb downloaded :/


I would have more info but have to spend more time on things that pay the bills.  I have no funding for this research so its kinda on an as available basis and currently I have only had about 30 minutes to look into it.  Should that change I can probably do a whole lot more.  As I get the time I am going to disassemble the board firmware and try to write compatible C code that would replace the closed proprietary cointerrible CTA firmware that is known to be buggy.  This is by no means a trivial task, disassembly has its own problems and is often a little more involved  than running IDA to get something that can be recompiled into a working software package.

If this info is helpful I do accept tips, should anyone want to fund my research I can make more time available.  1AhuDugRidP9HksF8s5WrDUziucmctXBNc


The PSU is a power-one PFE-1100-054RA ($350 or so at a few retailers).  This breaks down to 1100w max output, reverse airflow psu.  It seems to me that the psus are maxed out (and less efficient as a result).  The PET-1300-054NA would actually fit and according to power-one anything in the PFE or PET series is swappable.  This would give you a bit more available power which might solve some issues with the systems.  The 1300w one is a bit more at about $450 though.  It is my understanding that the DC/DC circuitry on the board as well as the psu is the reason the 1.6 TH/s units cant do 2TH/s so you may get a slight bump from swapping the psu.  It would be an expensive experiment for someone to try though.  I also like the NA rather than the RA models as they exhaust the heat rearward instead of to the front.  I am unsure exactly why cointerrible got reverse models, but the heat shield could be removed (you must remove it to swap the PSU) and for data center apps the hot/cold sides could be better maintained.

The mcu on the boards themselves is an arm.  specifically a TM4C1233H6PGEI.  The firmware loaded onto the board along with the tools to load the firmware is located in /opt/GSA_{VERSION}.dfu and at least some debugging symbols appear to be intact.  I have a few versions of board firmware that are not yet released specifically  from 0.7.53 CTA version 0.5.29 (2014-06-12) and from 0.7.46 CTA version 0.5.29 (2014-06-12).  See the end of this post for instructions on extracting the firmware so you dont have to ssh into your box to get it.

The waterblocks/coldplates are basically corsair H60s (which coolIT also was part of developing).  Any intel LGA 1150 (and others) compatible block should fit providing you have an X type mounting bracket with slots allowing for about 72mm spacing on the screws.  I would avoid any round screw hole and stick with slots like the cointerrible unit ships with to ensure that you can get the screws in exactly the right place.  This means people can experiment with alternate blocks, radiators and pumps to see what works best for them.  My quick measurements on a running unit (so I couldnt get the calipers in as good as I wanted) showed the exterior dimensions of the block is 2.5 inches or about 64mm and the screws center to center are 2.88 inches or about 72mm.  I know for a fact that I did not take good or exact measurements mostly because I was afraid of accidentally touching something with metal calipers and partly because I wanted approximate dimensions to see what would fit.  If you do replace the coldplate I strongly suggest that the part that touches the chips be made of copper and that the water channel be cut into that copper plate.  Copper allows for better heat transfer into the fluid than aluminum (while aluminum works better in the radiators to get the heat out).  The pump appears to use the standard 3 pin connector with the pins in the standard positions.


PSU datasheet http://www.power-one.com/sites/power-one.com/files/documents/power/datasheet/bcd.00012_ai_pfe1100-12-054xa.pdf
MCU datasheet http://www.ti.com/product/tm4c1233h6pge


The salvage price for various components in the cointerrible miner puts it at $1k or maybe a bit more if you have a good salvage guy.  Soon they will be selling well below this price point and just parting them out could be more profitable than mining with them Smiley


insturctions to extract firmware

First let me say that if you need these you probably shouldnt be modifying firmware for your device.  However sometimes all someone needs is a nudge in the right direction to notice and/or fix something that should have already been fixed.  There are plenty of things that can be fixed on these boxes.  The beaglebone is a ARM AM335x cpu so anything you build/add/replace must adhere to that platform.

The web stuff is php and one thing that would be easy to extend is the power stepping (and possibly adding the ps_load capability).  Cointerrible gives you 0-9 to step through, however the cgminer driver takes 0-255.  You appear to be able to do 25MHz steps if you can get finer grained control over this than the crude stepping they give you.  ps_load is 0-100 with a hardcoded default of 0.  I am unsure exactly what ps_load does exactly.  I was unable to observe any real device changes in the brief time I looked at things.

This at least opens the door for more people to fix many of the problems with the non-CTA firmware, and opens the door for a few who can work on the CTA firmware.  One is obviously harder than the other.  You will need mkimage from uboot to rebuild rdImage back so it can be flashed using the web interface.

Code:
mkdir ~/cointerra-firmware
cd ~/cointerra-firmware
wget http://cointerra.com/fw/TerraMiner_0.7.6.tgz
mkdir 0.7.6
cd 0.7.6
tar zxvf ../TerraMiner_0.7.6.tgz
cd upgrade
dd if=rdImage of=rootfs.ext2.gz bs=1 skip=64
gunzip rootfs.ext2.gz
sudo mount -o loop rootfs.ext2 /mnt
ls /mnt

In /opt you will see a few files.  Of interest is:
dfu-util and cointool which has symbolic links made for cointool-info and cointool-upgrade

dfu-util can reset the board (0 or 1)
cointool-info can query the board for its info - serial numbers, CTA version, hardware version, etc
cointool-upgrade can load the firmware of your choice, or even downgrade (default script loads anything that is not equal to the version on the board)
GSA_0.4.5.dfu is the firmware itself for the board.  

I have not yet looked for a recovery method in case you brick the board.  There should be jtag or something to allow you to load a minimal firmware that then lets you load a working one (jtag is slow++ and the MCU natively does usb and other faster stuff).  My guess is reviewing the data sheet on the MCU would yield that answer fairly quickly, but alas I have no time.  I have not even looked at the board for headers or contacts or silkscreening that would indicate where you can do this.  I am guessing there are contacts somewhere that directly connect to pins on the MCU that would enable a reflash for recovery but until this is resolved I personally would not reflash it with anything not from cointerrible.

If you try to be clever and use binwalk on the GSA firmware you will be disappointed.  It claims it contains a LZMA compressed data section and the uncompressed size is 9000 yottabytes.  This is obviously incorrect, which leads me to think that it is a direct image for the ARM MCU.  I have yet to further analyze the file to see if this is true, but occams razor and all that.  While its compiled size is only 55k, and it is ARM which generally have 4 byte opcodes usually with the same prefix that does not mean it will be fast, easy or trivial to reverse the firmware, then again maybe it will be.  I do know already that they use a PLL to set the asic chip frequency, so there is a potential however weak that one could play with that for overclocking.  The PLL is probably controlled via one of the 106 GPIO lines the MCU has.  There may also be some speedups that can happen during an audit of the code to see if they do anything in a silly way that is inefficient.
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August 02, 2014, 01:52:10 PM
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The PSU is a power-one PFE-1100-054RA ($350 or so at a few retailers).  This breaks down to 1100w max output, reverse airflow psu.  It seems to me that the psus are maxed out (and less efficient as a result).  The PET-1300-054NA would actually fit and according to power-one anything in the PFE or PET series is swappable.  This would give you a bit more available power which might solve some issues with the systems.  The 1300w one is a bit more at about $450 though.  It is my understanding that the DC/DC circuitry on the board as well as the psu is the reason the 1.6 TH/s units cant do 2TH/s so you may get a slight bump from swapping the psu.  It would be an expensive experiment for someone to try though.  I also like the NA rather than the RA models as they exhaust the heat rearward instead of to the front.  I am unsure exactly why cointerrible got reverse models, but the heat shield could be removed (you must remove it to swap the PSU) and for data center apps the hot/cold sides could be better maintained.

The waterblocks/coldplates are basically corsair H60s (which coolIT also was part of developing).  Any intel LGA 1150 (and others) compatible block should fit providing you have an X type mounting bracket with slots allowing for about 72mm spacing on the screws.  I would avoid any round screw hole and stick with slots like the cointerrible unit ships with to ensure that you can get the screws in exactly the right place.  This means people can experiment with alternate blocks, radiators and pumps to see what works best for them.  My quick measurements on a running unit (so I couldnt get the calipers in as good as I wanted) showed the exterior dimensions of the block is 2.5 inches or about 64mm and the screws center to center are 2.88 inches or about 72mm.  I know for a fact that I did not take good or exact measurements mostly because I was afraid of accidentally touching something with metal calipers and partly because I wanted approximate dimensions to see what would fit.  If you do replace the coldplate I strongly suggest that the part that touches the chips be made of copper and that the water channel be cut into that copper plate.  Copper allows for better heat transfer into the fluid than aluminum (while aluminum works better in the radiators to get the heat out).  The pump appears to use the standard 3 pin connector with the pins in the standard positions.


im not recommending anyone modifies their terraminer - and you will definitely void your warranty if you had any left - but for those whose warranty has already expired, and if you dont mind risking damage to your system (with no possibility of comeback to cointerra) and if you do choose to modify or repair your box, here's some extra hints.

If youre going to replace the pumps theyre probably closer to the Corsair H80i pumps than they are the H60 pumps.   Getting a dead old pump off without losing coolant from the radiator may be a challenge but probably not impossible if you hold the radiator the right way and let the liquid drain out of the pumps into the rad before removing them.  and be sure to clamp new ones on again properly so there are no leaks.  this is a bad place to have liquid leaks with so much power on the board.    Since the pumps contain moving parts and are highly mechanical they are definitely a source of potential failure/unreliability in the system, and are definitely worth considering their replacement if performance isnt good and pump failure is suspected.   However, i remind that cointerra has an out-of-warranty repair service which id recommend instead of doing it yourself.

Power Supplies.

The standard one is an 1100 watt power-one unit.  there is a 1200 watt Murata one that fits in the same size housing (but may need wiring changes to utilise) if thats of interest.   Failing that, perhaps someone should try an outboard power supply (like most miners these days are shipping without psus) and use bigger power supplies and direct connect their outputs to the terraminer's power input?

Board power... as has been mentioned, the dc/dc converters get hot and that explains why the fans are running at full speed all the time - probably giving significantly more cooling to the asics than they need... thus if you want to try and over-clock the asics, you will need to reverse engineer the firmware, and increase not only the clockspeed but also the volts... which will require significant experimentation and risk of burning out the chips and boards.  The chips themselves are capable of 500 GH each (and the liquid cooling system is overspecced so thats no problem) thus a 2 TH box is possible, however, the dc/dc converters on the first board werent efficient enough and run too hot to make this a possibility, which is why cointerra designed a mk 2 board that does run the four asics at 2 TH using different dc/dc converters that are more efficient.

If someone finds a better way of cooling the dc/dc converters (perhaps putting heatsinks on them... or using immersion cooling for the entire board) then there's no reason why the asics cant be clocked higher and volted accordingly.  With the right power and cooling, they definitely run at 500 GH per chip (or more)

note, you have been warned that any modifications of your terraminer are dangerous (due to the high power currents involved) and that you will definitely void your warranty and lose any support possibility you ever had from cointerra.  if you dont care about that and still want to go ahead, on your own head be it.  (if youve opened your box and done anything to the innards, there's no way cointerra would be able to repair it, so if there's any doubt, dont touch it!)
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