GekkoScience has a new stickminer that does 300+GH

[flat4power2]

Hi all,
I have a problem with bitshopper.de, they don't answer to me since december when I order a CompacF
I have never receive my usb miner and they just say wait but ...
so did someone have an other solution to contact then than email ?
thanks

It is a german company, with an imprint:

Ernst Heller
bitshopper.de
Bernhard-Plettner-Ring 38
91052 Erlangen
Deutschland

Tel.: +49 179/ 9754353

The phone number is a mobile number, so it will cost you a fortune, if you are outside the eu.

just to give news
after discussion with bitshopper, they proceed to a resend.
Thanks to them

[sidehack]

You have think to add a way to send directly 3.3v or 5v on your stick without take power from USB and use USB just for data ?
They are powerful and efficient industrial power supply for low voltage and huge current.

It can be easy to cool if it's possible to align chip with a bigger radiator or waterblock system or use M.2 system to cool your chip
Like this :

So, the pod miners.


Also regarding soliciting funds from Sledge, that was tongue-in-cheek. We're doing okay, and I couldn't ask for better advertisement than his story anyway.

[gt_addict]

Pod Miners?!! Yes Yes and again Yes! How is the progress?

[nings]

So, the pod miners.

Yes but it's not the same to build his own custom pod
Your USB miner have a nice size/design for this purpose and it's easily swap-able for chip upgrade when are outdated.

De-soldering a SMD 0 ohm resistor or just two pad for cut USB power supply and just add two soldering points for the power supply cables probably not change anything in your PCB design.
It can be really nice for build custom pod

The direct connection can help too people on DC power like solar panel to power their miners easily.


It's just an idea for you

[sidehack]

It's not easily swap-able for chip upgrades. This assumes an upgraded chip is pin- and signal-compatible, which is almost universally incorrect.

if you've got the skill to modify the USB stick for external power without wrecking anything, it can be done with the stick as-is. This idea has been presented I don't know how many times in the seven years I've been building high-performance stick miners and it gets dismissed every time. It will continue to be dismissed every time. If you want external power, you no longer want a stick miner.

[n0nce]

It's not easily swap-able for chip upgrades. This assumes an upgraded chip is pin- and signal-compatible, which is almost universally incorrect.

if you've got the skill to modify the USB stick for external power without wrecking anything, it can be done with the stick as-is. This idea has been presented I don't know how many times in the seven years I've been building high-performance stick miners and it gets dismissed every time. It will continue to be dismissed every time. If you want external power, you no longer want a stick miner.

To be honest, it would be cool to e.g. have a second USB connector so you can use 2x 3A ports with one chip, to really get the last bit of performance out of these insane single chips.
However, I see the cooling as an issue. Already 15W on such a small cooler seems to be stretching it, so I'm not sure it would be safe to push this stick-sized design further with even more watts.

Also, pod miners?! I heard his words! The lord is back!

[nings]

It's not easily swap-able for chip upgrades. This assumes an upgraded chip is pin- and signal-compatible, which is almost universally incorrect.

It's just a usb stick you trash whole USB not just the chip because it's not possible to swap only the chip like you write. You trash whole stick put the newer keep radiator/waterblock/power cables/fan/power supply/hub/usb cables so almost all can be keep for years but replace only what is replaceable the usb stick.
It's swap-able easily by keeping all other stuff.

if you've got the skill to modify the USB stick for external power without wrecking anything, it can be done with the stick as-is. This idea has been presented I don't know how many times in the seven years I've been building high-performance stick miners and it gets dismissed every time. It will continue to be dismissed every time.

You can't have two different power source but you should know that so you need to destroy an usb cable or usb connector for remove power line but keep data lines and solder external power source only. It's just weird and harder to solder if not designed for do that. It's easier to design that directly on the PCB and it's may be not for nothing than a lot of people every year since seven years ask you exactly the same thing no ?

If you want external power, you no longer want a stick miner.

Why you let these devices be overclocked if it's for put on a 5V 500mA USB port ?
Why some people sell custom USB powered hub if these people not want more power for their stick miner ?
Why all USB devices asking for more than 1A add a second power plug like some external HDD and all usb devices who can't take enough power from some computers ?
People need easy swap-able devices and usb miner because want to be able to control exact power consumption and design their own "pod" but keeping materials on the long run and not trash the whole pod each time.
And may be easier to solder two cables than made their own custom designed hub for have the right position with cooling system or use awg20 usb cables for can sustain 5V 3A on longer cable because their cooling not fit on the powered usb hub design


I not need reply it's your choice and you customers

[n0nce]

It's just a usb stick you trash whole USB not just the chip because it's not possible to swap only the chip like you write. You trash whole stick put the newer keep radiator/waterblock/power cables/fan/power supply/hub/usb cables so almost all can be keep for years but replace only what is replaceable the usb stick.
It's swap-able easily by keeping all other stuff.

Dude, a water loop with a few mini blocks for multiple sticks will easily cost you less than a single of these sticks. These aren't just USB sticks... (compare mining stick price to usb stick price, maybe you don't know typical stickminer prices? )

if you've got the skill to modify the USB stick for external power without wrecking anything, it can be done with the stick as-is. This idea has been presented I don't know how many times in the seven years I've been building high-performance stick miners and it gets dismissed every time. It will continue to be dismissed every time.

You can't have two different power source but you should know that so you need to destroy an usb cable or usb connector for remove power line but keep data lines and solder external power source only. It's just weird and harder to solder if not designed for do that. It's easier to design that directly on the PCB and it's may be not for nothing than a lot of people every year since seven years ask you exactly the same thing no ?

Why not try it? Get a $5 USB-A extension cord, rip out the power leads, scrape some solder mask on the back (front) side of the miner (the side where it has the heatsink on), and solder a barrel jack or something to the large ground and VDD planes and solder two thick enough wires to the USB input + and - wires.
This would be a reversible (even though not pretty) mod.
It seems the sticks are limited to 850MHz; I am on 500MHz right now and around 2.6A, so I suspect for running 850 you will really need more than 3A, more like 5A (25W) or something, so it would definitely be a cool PoC with actual benefit.

Kano is working on the driver for this guy, and we agreed to cap the speed to 800MHz (538GH theoretical) for safety and sanity's sake.

Why you let these devices be overclocked if it's for put on a 5V 500mA USB port ?

They're not made for 500mA. They need at least 2.4A, which some off-the-shelf hubs do provide (within USB spec), but 3A-capable mining hubs are preferred (look in this thread; there is sidehack's own hub and another one whose name I forgot - it's what was used in the recently found block by someone with 9 Compac F's).

People need easy swap-able devices and usb miner because want to be able to control exact power consumption and design their own "pod" but keeping materials on the long run and not trash the whole pod each time.

I don't get your point. What do you want to be swappable? You talked about the cooling system (watercooling). I don't get why you can't just take off the $2 heatsink that they come with and add your own cooling solution. It's basically 'swap-able' already right now in that sense.

[sidehack]

Yeah we've intentionally kept the same dimensions for the past three generations of sticks so people can re-use the external hardwares they've conjured up. We'll keep the same formfactor for as long as it's feasible.

[Powell]

Sledge how does just the single Arctic fan do for cooling 3 together?  Not sure what kind of Ambient temps you are running in.  I've got 3d printed shrouds with Noctua A40x20's on them.  I was afraid they would run too hot even though they are in my shop, but maybe a bit overkill.

[Sledge0001]

Sledge how does just the single Arctic fan do for cooling 3 together?  Not sure what kind of Ambient temps you are running in.  I've got 3d printed shrouds with Noctua A40x20's on them.  I was afraid they would run too hot even though they are in my shop, but maybe a bit overkill.

All of my sticks are kept and run in a temperature controlled environment. The warmest my rigs ever see is 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

With one Arctic fan it seems to provide adequate airflow to keep 3 of them in check. Notice I did space them out though as well to allow for proper airflow.

[nings]

Dude, a water loop with a few mini blocks for multiple sticks will easily cost you less than a single of these sticks. These aren't just USB sticks... (compare mining stick price to usb stick price, maybe you don't know typical stickminer prices? )

Buy one standard size waterblock or a lot smaller with each time pipes connections can give you more issue than one big.
Yes this stick have a cost but with a pod you trash all each time because nothing are reusable and performance increase over time here it's just the "chip" and keep other parts.

Why not try it? Get a $5 USB-A extension cord, rip out the power leads, scrape some solder mask on the back (front) side of the miner (the side where it has the heatsink on), and solder a barrel jack or something to the large ground and VDD planes. Make sure to glue it in place to prevent risk of pad tearing. Or maybe solder thick wires and somehow attach the barrel jack to something more stable like the heatsink itself.
This would be a reversible (even though not pretty) mod.
It seems the sticks are limited to 850MHz; I am on 500MHz right now and around 2.6A, so I suspect for running 850 you will really need more than 3A, more like 5A (25W) or something, so it would definitely be a cool PoC with actual benefit.

No you need to buy usb connector to solder yourself if you want do that. And I not speak about a barrel jack just some mm copper pad on the usb stick nothing big and no components to add.
Low voltage has a lot of losses on small section cables.

They're not made for 500mA. They need at least 2.4A, which some off-the-shelf hubs do provide (within USB spec), but 3A-capable mining hubs are preferred (look in this thread; there is sidehack's own hub and another one whose name I forgot - it's what was used in the recently found block by someone with 9 Compac F's).

That's the official USB specification : Multi-lane SuperSpeed (USB 3.2 Gen 2) device    1.5 A[d]    5 V    7.5 W
2.4-3A isn't within specifications need an USBC connector for these type of power delivery and it's add a huge layer of complexity.
It's why all usb devices USB 1.0/2.0/3.0 consuming more power than about 0.9-1.5A have an external power supply connector for stay within standard.
A direct copper cable on a copper pad are in all cases better for keep voltage than a USB connector for this type of consumption.

I don't get your point. What do you want to be swappable? You talked about the cooling system (watercooling). I don't get why you can't just take off the $2 heatsink that they come with and add your own cooling solution. It's basically 'swap-able' already right now in that sense.

You have a certain number of stick aligned with your cooling/power supply/cable/custom design but in 2/3/5 years where are too weak you trash all these stick and replace them without change anything just solder the 2 wires on the new stick but keep all other part forever. Each part are independent and can be replaced but designed for your power available. Change nothing if you have 50W/100W/1000W solar panel power and can consume exactly what is available and you can even easily control each stick with relays.

[n0nce]

No you need to buy usb connector to solder yourself if you want do that.

First of all, that's trivial to do (don't see the issue) and secondly, you can use any type of connector to provide the extra power. It could also be feasible to solder thick wires with USB-A on the end, though, I suppose.
In case you want to do this, I have to revise what I said about soldering to large VDD and GND planes: the ones I thought about are obviously not at the right potential and would skip the power regulator circuit, so you need to solder to the existing USB connector's contacts (plus side: they're nice and big).

Low voltage has a lot of losses on small section cables.

Yes, you need thicker cables due to high power. So what?

2.4-3A isn't within specifications need an USBC connector for these type of power delivery and it's add a huge layer of complexity.

That's wrong. 2.4A is definitely in spec. All my mobile devices are charged at 2.4A through USB-A - I think it's the USB PD 2.0 spec or something like that (commonly known as 'fast charging').
If you want to go higher, of course that's outside the specification, but that's why I said that sidehack makes these with 2.4A in mind.. of course you can overclock higher if you provide more power through specialized hubs, but you could run them in-spec.

It's why all usb devices USB 1.0/2.0/3.0 consuming more power than about 0.9-1.5A have an external power supply connector for stay within standard.

Look at your phone. It has a single USB connector without external power supply, yet it charges at 2.4 Amps on a normal modern phone charger.

You have a certain number of stick aligned with your cooling/power supply/cable/custom design but in 2/3/5 years where are too weak you trash all these stick and replace them without change anything just solder the 2 wires on the new stick but keep all other part forever. Each part are independent and can be replaced but designed for your power available. Change nothing if you have 50W/100W/1000W solar panel power and can consume exactly what is available and you can even easily control each stick with relays.

Okay, so the idea is to keep the lower part of the stick (power supply circuit). Not sure that's going to save you that much money. Also it is virtually the same as in Compac, NewPac, 2Pac, but it is slightly tuned to the chip(s) that it powers, so they would need to make it somehow modular (move resistor to change core voltage and similar), and I'm not sure it makes sense to save at the very most $10 off a $250 device.

[elsupreme]

Yeah we've intentionally kept the same dimensions for the past three generations of sticks so people can re-use the external hardwares they've conjured up. We'll keep the same formfactor for as long as it's feasible.

where can i order the campac F from  ?

[nings]

First of all, that's trivial to do (don't see the issue) and secondly, you can use any type of connector to provide the extra power. It could also be feasible to solder thick wires with USB-A on the end, though, I suppose.
In case you want to do this, I have to revise what I said about soldering to large VDD and GND planes: the ones I thought about are obviously not at the right potential and would skip the power regulator circuit, so you need to solder to the existing USB connector's contacts (plus side: they're nice and big).

Why add a connector when you just not need any connector ?
Need a power supply a wire and a solder point for solder directly the copper cable on the copper PCB that's the better way for have the higher voltage/current. You seem never have measured any data cable and view issue at each connector. In high voltage even a damaged insulator can cause major issue.
People who want loss power on their USB connector use their USB connector it's not an issue but add a pad somewhere on the PCB change nothing with an easy way for cut power coming from USB. Voltage can't be take from 5V usb and another from another power supply for power.

That's wrong. 2.4A is definitely in spec. All my mobile devices are charged at 2.4A through USB-A - I think it's the USB PD 2.0 spec or something like that (commonly known as 'fast charging').
If you want to go higher, of course that's outside the specification, but that's why I said that sidehack makes these with 2.4A in mind.. of course you can overclock higher if you provide more power through specialized hubs, but you could run them in-spec.

USB PD 2.0 it's 20V@5A. USB norm is a voltage and a current within 5m cable look what happen with your 5V 100A charger at the end of a 5m usb AWG28 cable by measuring the voltage and real current at the end you will understand the issue. It's not for nothing than voltage increase to 20V for transfer 5A with USB-C.
Current is limited by cable section and length or even connectors.

Okay, so the idea is to keep the lower part of the stick (power supply circuit). Not sure that's going to save you that much money. Also it is virtually the same as in Compac, NewPac, 2Pac, but it is slightly tuned to the chip(s) that it powers, so they would need to make it somehow modular (move resistor to change core voltage and similar), and I'm not sure it makes sense to save at the very most $10 off a $250 device.

An industrial low voltage power supply isn't really cheap but yes you can keep all and you not lost any time because it's like hot plug an usb stick for replace the WHOLE miner and you can exchange easily each part (cable usb hub power supply computer for controlling stick and custom voltage source for each miner) without trash all like a pod. 5V USB or 5V from industrial power supply not need any change and like I already write a "chip" exchange = whole stick miner exchange not unsolder asic chip and solder a newer. Package probably not the same vcore change so no.
I just ask two copper pad and a 0ohm resistor or removable fuse for cut usb 5V supply and provide directly 5v to the pcb like probably all other people since 7 years asking for the same thing

Imagine how many time the people who made is own pod with usb stick lost time for design smaller water block put so many pipe who can cause leak too for almost nothing because hub port aren't correctly aligned for put one big water block. You think really that the cost is low ?
It can just align 4 or more miners and put even an already existing cooler because it's like VRM IC aligned on mainboard or graphic card so something probably already exist for put that under watercooling and cost are way reduced just need to solder 2 copper cables on each miner and use standard material for all other.

[poonasor]

Yeah we've intentionally kept the same dimensions for the past three generations of sticks so people can re-use the external hardwares they've conjured up. We'll keep the same formfactor for as long as it's feasible.

where can i order the campac F from  ?

i think its all sold out online now, there were a bunch on 419mining but its sold out now

[n0nce]

An industrial low voltage power supply isn't really cheap but yes you can keep all and you not lost any time because it's like hot plug an usb stick for replace the WHOLE miner and you can exchange easily each part (cable usb hub power supply computer for controlling stick and custom voltage source for each miner) without trash all like a pod. 5V USB or 5V from industrial power supply not need any change and like I already write a "chip" exchange = whole stick miner exchange not unsolder asic chip and solder a newer. Package probably not the same vcore change so no.
I just ask two copper pad and a 0ohm resistor or removable fuse for cut usb 5V supply and provide directly 5v to the pcb like probably all other people since 7 years asking for the same thing

I don't understand your issue; why not solder wires directly to the USB connector?



It's possible this was even intended; as seen in the start post, the stick's limit is pretty high (800MHz), which interpolating from my numbers on a regular GekkoScience hub, would draw 5A or 25W compared to the hub's maximum of 15W per port. So you would gain a significant benefit from this mod and it should be pretty easy to try. Also it's reversible.


Then I still don't understand what you are 'keeping' when upgrading to a new stick. You'll still be 'throwing away' (that's your words, I would never throw such a stick away - easily sellable online) the whole stick, right? You would just keep the 5V power supply, just like is the case now (people using GekkoScience hub for many generations).

[Sledge0001]

Yeah we've intentionally kept the same dimensions for the past three generations of sticks so people can re-use the external hardwares they've conjured up. We'll keep the same formfactor for as long as it's feasible.

where can i order the campac F from  ?

i think its all sold out online now, there were a bunch on 419mining but its sold out now

Try AsicPuppy.com they had some still up last I checked. I have ordered from both and are pleased with their service.

[elsupreme]

Yeah we've intentionally kept the same dimensions for the past three generations of sticks so people can re-use the external hardwares they've conjured up. We'll keep the same formfactor for as long as it's feasible.

where can i order the campac F from  ?

i think its all sold out online now, there were a bunch on 419mining but its sold out now

Try AsicPuppy.com they had some still up last I checked. I have ordered from both and are pleased with their service.

Thanks. will look them up.

[snow_elk]

Merely sitting on the shoulders of giants here, very appreciative of all contributors who are making home mining a possibility.

Quick question: Does anyone know the status of AsicPuppy.com?  Placed order there over a week ago (even though site didn't give impression of being properly maintained.. contact page 404, insecure connection to website, etc).  Order has been "processing" since then.

Just thought I'd express my concern since merchant seems well regarded by community.  Apologize in advance if this post is ultimately unwarranted.