He makes that amount by telling you some bullshit strategy about how he makes that amount, it's like an evil circle.
Why did he even mention the jump in btc? It had nothing to do with his strategy since it apparently wasn't from trading nor mining. Why? To lure newcomers to buy his shit, that's why.
The Bitcoin price raising just attract people to "Gaining Value". Also the $ he say he make is so precise, so generic, this sound like the thousands of other "how to get rich" ebook you can buy/get scammed with that pretty much tell you jack shit. I actually read many of them from people who "shared" them and it usually say things like; "People want something like "lose weight fast" "make money quick"" and you can just keep selling them stuff because they are going to buy it, then just throw it away if its too hard, or too much effort, or too vague." and forget and most of the time not ask for a refund. So basically they tend to tell you how to rip gullible people off and how to get away with it, since you truly really issue refunds. Either that or its one of those where you just get scammed. |
|
|
|
This thread is useless without price AND guaranteed delivery date.
No different then what is going on with the SP50 thread.
I think that the Avalon 6 will be out before SP50 but that is a guess. I just think that miner looked pretty production ready. I think SP50 has a lot more hurdles being the huge miner. And it announced lower electricity use. There's also a very low chance of getting in the first production batch(es) unless you rubbed Spoondoolies with a fat stack of bills and pre ordered before the others. But Valkir sent them a e-mail one months ago asking for a quote for a small group buy and he has not posted back with them giving a reply yet. So good chances its going to take quite a while longer still. Perhaps not before 2016. |
|
|
|
Actually it's novak's OP. I know cgminer can have issues with USB3 but some folks have tested 2.0 hubs with 3.0 power availability with good results. I don't have anything USB3 to play with.
The power bottleneck in any system is more likely to be your hub or cooling than anything on the Compac itself. If the stick is provided with stable power over 4V, it'll push enough current to melt your ASIC without adequate cooling. Voltage drop within the hub, and burst current requirements causing input voltage ripple, can result in instability of the stick. With my modified hub and a modified stick (increased voltage range, extra caps on the buck circuit) we got 488MHz out of it and it was probably drawing close to 4A through the jack. At that point the input power was dropping too low and the core voltage was unstable. For most people, the power bottleneck will be the USB hub.
Woops, sorry Novak. Sound good, that means it would not be particularly hard to draw power from 4 jacks and feed it to one usb stick. And i'm not sure i want to get to 4V, but can the turn-knob even go over 0.8V, by doing more than a 360degree turn? Nope that is something I thank sidehack for. It has a range where you could turn circles on the voltage knob but with the set range it wont go out of it. 1st or 2nd page has a good picture of it showing range. OP has a picture that show up until 0.8 volt, which seem fairly low and reasonable and i doubt i would melt my stick with that with the airflow i have available. Unless it get knocked off somehow, that would be too bad. I guess we could use those thermal switch thing i forgot the name. But they were recommended for the S5 when people were panicking about the firmware shutting down fans but not hashing when they lost internet connection. So if the max voltage is 0.8 then i'll oc to the max with 0.8  |
|
|
|
did i just read that EU made BTC tax free EU-wide ?
http://www.newsbtc.com/2015/10/22/history-made-bitcoin-is-tax-free-in-europe-hits-a-fresh-10-week-high/Says its considered a currency, so if you exchange it, there is no added taxes. If you have a income in BTC, i doubt it doesn't count as income, especially if you convert it to Euro at any point. This just means that its not like in Brazil where they pay like 20% tax when BTC get exchanged to US or Reias or anything. So i would not consider it tax free, unless the country you live decide to also exempt BTC income as taxable income. |
|
|
|
Yes im in north america. It does show limits are 300/week. However do i need to verify my account first? The only thing i did was confirm my account via email. Then this email to confirm my identify i received later on but i just noticed this email now. I'm pretty sure this isn't a phishing scam but just want to verify here that this is a legit email.
I see, i might have given them a pic of me. I didnt use it in months, but my limit went from 500$ to 3000$ and i didn't do anything more. Strange. Anyways, Circle has massive fees. I really recommend setting up Coinbase. They charge 1%+0.7$/1$, have a higher exchange rate and its instant with interact, at least in Canada. And it take 1 day or so to receive money when you send it back to your bank account. Setting up a bank account take a few days however. |
|
|
|
I think that the main problem with bitcoin mining is its block size limit. The network won't increase the limit but will continue to increase the difficulty (somehow) and will reduce the payments. (Apparently by around June next year the reward will half).
You can speculate all day long and we don't know what will happen at having. Us miners hope BTC goes up in value (which it has been doing). But it's so hard to say. I mean by having they might have a miner with 2x the efficiency of today... we don't know. Factors like better miners, higher btc value, among other things could make having not bad. Or it could suck and be horrible.... we just don't know. Reduced mining reward will lead in many bitcoin companies, if they havn't already done so, of moving to CHINA. Just to bitcoin mine. I am informed the charges of electricity are cheaper there. There are quite a few places in the world that can match the lowest electric rates in China quite closely, or even beat them. One small such area of them happens to be in the USA. Others can get very close, with a lower average ambient temperature to make cooling trivial. There are many factors involved in why a lot of big mines are in China, electric is NOT the only factor to consider. Beat them? USA has 0.02$/kWh? If it does, i'd really like to know where and how. Québec has nearly it, in big industrial setup and its much closer than China. I also hear Venezuela's is ultra super cheap. Talking about near-free cheap comparing to its cost in US cents. |
|
|
|
Actually it's novak's OP. I know cgminer can have issues with USB3 but some folks have tested 2.0 hubs with 3.0 power availability with good results. I don't have anything USB3 to play with.
The power bottleneck in any system is more likely to be your hub or cooling than anything on the Compac itself. If the stick is provided with stable power over 4V, it'll push enough current to melt your ASIC without adequate cooling. Voltage drop within the hub, and burst current requirements causing input voltage ripple, can result in instability of the stick. With my modified hub and a modified stick (increased voltage range, extra caps on the buck circuit) we got 488MHz out of it and it was probably drawing close to 4A through the jack. At that point the input power was dropping too low and the core voltage was unstable. For most people, the power bottleneck will be the USB hub.
Woops, sorry Novak. Sound good, that means it would not be particularly hard to draw power from 4 jacks and feed it to one usb stick. And i'm not sure i want to get to 4V, but can the turn-knob even go over 0.8V, by doing more than a 360degree turn? |
|
|
|
Sadly, i do not see how to measure amperage to figure out what the maximum clock i should set it to with a y-splitter on an USB3.0 hub. I only have a multi meter.
Get a usb tester: http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Capacity-Charging-Alignment/dp/B00J3JSEG6I just ordered 4 sets of Y cables so I can really start playing with my sticks. Highest freq. I can get on hub right now is 262.5 without exceeding the amp rating for each port. Yeah i know about those, but i don't want to pay 20$(I'm in Canada) to test around with my 20$ toy. I through i could check the amp with the first and 4th pin, but that didn't work out. And i don't know enough about circuits to guess how to do it without frying stuff. I would suggest taking a look at ebay then. If money and not timeline is the big concern you can get very low priced ones (Here is one example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Charger-Doctor-Voltage-Current-Meter-Mobile-Battery-Tester-Power-Detector-NE-/131214096046?hash=item1e8cf836ae:g:MtUAAOSwmrlUvcj9 ) But you can get it cheap just takes a while to get from China. I'm not sure on Canada shipping but I imagine it still will be a few bucks total for one if your willing to wait. Ah, thanks. I thought those only read Voltage. I got one for 3$ free shipping. 1 month ETA so i'll just wait until i do it before doing crazy clock on this thing. Not a problem that is part of what I love about this compac group is the sharing of info. I got Y cables off ebay thanks to phil for cheap that I waited on, and worked awesome. I also got those Y cables off the link Phil gave. As soon as i receive that meter, i guess i'll try to OC it to the max. I wonder how high these things can go. I'm wondering what the bottleneck would be, the stick's own USB port? Most likely I think it would be the power provide by the usb hub. If you had a modified hub with more power I predict that would be highest "OC". I could be wrong though. But I'm guessing that is most common. I see, but i don't know. Sidehack's OP says a USB3.0 should support 900mA. And now we have two and maybe we can even daisy chain the splitters to get even more? I'm not sure how much current the splitter themselves can support. I should be able to reach the 1.5A limit easily, going higher for short time might be fun to do, but i would not risk it 24/7. |
|
|
|
Sadly, i do not see how to measure amperage to figure out what the maximum clock i should set it to with a y-splitter on an USB3.0 hub. I only have a multi meter.
Get a usb tester: http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Capacity-Charging-Alignment/dp/B00J3JSEG6I just ordered 4 sets of Y cables so I can really start playing with my sticks. Highest freq. I can get on hub right now is 262.5 without exceeding the amp rating for each port. Yeah i know about those, but i don't want to pay 20$(I'm in Canada) to test around with my 20$ toy. I through i could check the amp with the first and 4th pin, but that didn't work out. And i don't know enough about circuits to guess how to do it without frying stuff. I would suggest taking a look at ebay then. If money and not timeline is the big concern you can get very low priced ones (Here is one example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Charger-Doctor-Voltage-Current-Meter-Mobile-Battery-Tester-Power-Detector-NE-/131214096046?hash=item1e8cf836ae:g:MtUAAOSwmrlUvcj9 ) But you can get it cheap just takes a while to get from China. I'm not sure on Canada shipping but I imagine it still will be a few bucks total for one if your willing to wait. Ah, thanks. I thought those only read Voltage. I got one for 3$ free shipping. 1 month ETA so i'll just wait until i do it before doing crazy clock on this thing. Not a problem that is part of what I love about this compac group is the sharing of info. I got Y cables off ebay thanks to phil for cheap that I waited on, and worked awesome. I also got those Y cables off the link Phil gave. As soon as i receive that meter, i guess i'll try to OC it to the max. I wonder how high these things can go. I'm wondering what the bottleneck would be, the stick's own USB port? |
|
|
|
Another question. I created a circle account then had the email to confirm my email address. I did this. I then logged into my email recently and saw another email message from circle that says
Hi viking,
Thanks for signing up to use Circle. We need some additional information in order to verify your identity and provide access to your Circle account.
Confirm your identity.
Questions? Please contact our support team.
Thanks,
Team Circle
This is 100% legit and not a phishing attempt right? Looks exactly the same as my email confirmation email that was sent few day before. I didn't check my email for few days then saw this email and pretty sure its legit but just want to make sure. It wouldn't make sense that it's a phishing attempt since i got this email the next day correct?
My max was 500$ a week and i did not need to verify. I don't know why they are asking this. Maybe they raised their requirements after i registered 1.5years ago. Do you live in North America? If so i recommend Coinbase. |
|
|
|
I would not pay more than $300 all-up for a SP20 at this time, and would be hesitant at more than $250.
Even that would depend on my geting moved VERY soon to a very cheap electric-rate location (which isn't happening as soon as I hoped).
I wish you would use actual pricing instead of " I would not pay more than". Look at ebay lots of sales but it is going to be mid to high 300's to 400 as a general idea. Miner's do not sell for what we wish they would sale. They have a cetain value. If you did the " I would not pay more than" at your prices you would have no miners. To be fair, Ebay prices tend to be fairly much higher than face to face and our marketplace's prices. I found SP20's for 300$, so i would not pay more than that, especially since we can get S5's for 250$ now. Its a hard pick between S5's and SP20's around this price. I went with S5's for efficiency and $/GH. That is why I like ebay on selling my old miners. I normally hit it up as it has a lot more customers bidding then on the forum it seems. Although if it's a part unit I have had better luck on this forum. So it really depends on what it is. Each place has it's higher selling items, and lower selling items. Yeah Ebay has all the oblivious people buying crap like 440MH/s usb stick for 40$. Then they come here and ask why they arent getting millions of dollars worth of bitcoin per minute. Last time it was a guy telling i was a liar because i told him his 2 400mh miners and couples of r9 280x would cost him tons and return nothing. Apparently he was "making good money, you liar!". |
|
|
|
Sadly, i do not see how to measure amperage to figure out what the maximum clock i should set it to with a y-splitter on an USB3.0 hub. I only have a multi meter.
Get a usb tester: http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Capacity-Charging-Alignment/dp/B00J3JSEG6I just ordered 4 sets of Y cables so I can really start playing with my sticks. Highest freq. I can get on hub right now is 262.5 without exceeding the amp rating for each port. Yeah i know about those, but i don't want to pay 20$(I'm in Canada) to test around with my 20$ toy. I through i could check the amp with the first and 4th pin, but that didn't work out. And i don't know enough about circuits to guess how to do it without frying stuff. I would suggest taking a look at ebay then. If money and not timeline is the big concern you can get very low priced ones (Here is one example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Charger-Doctor-Voltage-Current-Meter-Mobile-Battery-Tester-Power-Detector-NE-/131214096046?hash=item1e8cf836ae:g:MtUAAOSwmrlUvcj9 ) But you can get it cheap just takes a while to get from China. I'm not sure on Canada shipping but I imagine it still will be a few bucks total for one if your willing to wait. Ah, thanks. I thought those only read Voltage. I got one for 3$ free shipping. 1 month ETA so i'll just wait until i do it before doing crazy clock on this thing. |
|
|
|
Sadly, i do not see how to measure amperage to figure out what the maximum clock i should set it to with a y-splitter on an USB3.0 hub. I only have a multi meter.
Get a usb tester: http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Capacity-Charging-Alignment/dp/B00J3JSEG6I just ordered 4 sets of Y cables so I can really start playing with my sticks. Highest freq. I can get on hub right now is 262.5 without exceeding the amp rating for each port. Yeah i know about those, but i don't want to pay 20$(I'm in Canada) to test around with my 20$ toy. I through i could check the amp with the first and 4th pin, but that didn't work out. And i don't know enough about circuits to guess how to do it without frying stuff. |
|
|
|
The s-7 is better then the s-5 And depending on your setup there are mufflers that work.
I disagree. To me 1 x S7 is much louder than 3 x S5's. Even with fan speed reduction to 30%. That doesn't really make sense. Your S7 = 2x fans and S5s = 3x fans, identical fans. Sound is not merely relative to the fan speed and rating. You also must factor into existence the flow of the air and the noise generated from turbulence and or vibration. So you have environmental factors to think about. S5 - has lower restriction of airflow. The fin design of the heatinks allows for air to pass through with less resistance and turbulence. S7 - has compact heatsink design and completely enclosed aluminum housing. This creates a lot of turbulence and resistance. Just like water. What generates more noise, a river without rocks/rapids or one with rocks/rapids? Keep in mind not all S5 are the same. I have units with 4 different types of heat sinks. So it is important to know when compare which models people have. 1. The standard curved fin 2. The new ones like on the S7 3. Some CNC'd flat ones simliar to #1 but no curves 4. I forgot but I am pretty sure I received 4 different kinds from Bitmain New S5's with S7 heatsinks, are you talking about the S5+? And also there were batches with mini heatsinks individually on each chip. I'm considering adding some to the hotter chips since i have the materials for it but i'm not sure if it does anything at all, would be good to know. It Works for the S7, not sure if it would work with a S5. They look like the same to me, but I do not own any S7's so I am only going off of pictures. I am pretty sure they are the same. I can take pics if you want. Well if it has 2 blades, and it has S7 compact heatsink, i would like to see it, yes. If it has 3 blades, then its the S5+ i know. Regardless i believe you but yeah, if there's S5's non + with a S7 compact heatsink, i would like to see it + know what PCB version it read on the top right of the PCB under the bitmain logo. The latest i saw was v1.91. |
|
|
|
I would not pay more than $300 all-up for a SP20 at this time, and would be hesitant at more than $250.
Even that would depend on my geting moved VERY soon to a very cheap electric-rate location (which isn't happening as soon as I hoped).
I wish you would use actual pricing instead of " I would not pay more than". Look at ebay lots of sales but it is going to be mid to high 300's to 400 as a general idea. Miner's do not sell for what we wish they would sale. They have a cetain value. If you did the " I would not pay more than" at your prices you would have no miners. To be fair, Ebay prices tend to be fairly much higher than face to face and our marketplace's prices. I found SP20's for 300$, so i would not pay more than that, especially since we can get S5's for 250$ now. Its a hard pick between S5's and SP20's around this price. I went with S5's for efficiency and $/GH. |
|
|
|
is it safe to turn the knob while the thing is hashing to find the sweet spot?
Yes, you can adjust voltage while it is hashing and stop once the HW error stop. Very nice for real-time feed back rather than having to edit a command line, stop and restart hashing, etc. Thank you, this is working great. Kinda wish volt control on Bitmain's stuff was this easy. Most of the questions anyone could ask in this thread are answered in the first post. Any question that can't be answered in the first post is more than likely either the result of a misunderstanding, misconfiguration or grounds for warranty replacement.
Sadly, i do not see how to measure amperage to figure out what the maximum clock i should set it to with a y-splitter on an USB3.0 hub. I only have a multi meter. I see a mention of listing settings for the best over and underclock, but it does not seem like it actually happened. |
|
|
|
This doesn't say who the resaler is at all and makes it sound less confirmed. The official re-seller no doubt will be ehash. That is CANAAN CREATIVE's official online store (Avalon's official store). So that one most likely will be cheapest to buy unless they team up with someone else. iTOPshop.net get credit for releasing specs once again. I'm starting to be surprised companies send to them specs as they seem to be first one wanting to release specs, which is great for us but companies I'm not sure wanted them released. I just wish we knew the price. When ITOP released the S5+ specs, it took very little time before we saw the official announcement, then pricing. So good odds they'll come out of the wood with a price tag soon... |
|
|
|
Any of you guys knows of a single PSU that can drive the SP20E?
Seasonic X1250 (Gold) or their 1200 watt Platinum unit should work. Many folks like the EVGA 1300 G2 gold unit, though it's a hair less efficient than the X1250. The EVGA tends to cost a little less than the Seasonic gold is probably what makes it more popular. I tend to be conservative on PS usage, never run them real close to capasity, so my pair of X1250s running one Antminer S5 and half of my SP20 each is definitely overkill. 8-) The G2 is actually the one a hair more efficient, and proportionally more efficient if you run them both at the same draw, because of the 1300's higher rating, for instance the x-1250 will go down to 87.x% at 1200w fed and the G2 at almost 89%. The warranty is better as well. But since they are so similar in term of performance, i'd recommend going with the price here, but definitively favor the G2 if its same price or cheaper. The extra 50watts rated is good here for a single psu running a SP20 too. http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=349http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story2&reid=309 |
|
|
|
Any of you guys knows of a single PSU that can drive the SP20E?
Personally, if i had nothing and i had to do it with a single PSU, i would buy and use a EVGA G2 1300w. Otherwise i would get 2x 750/850w EVGA G2/GS for cheaper or the same price. The Bitmain's one would also work, but i have no personal experience with those, i don't know how clean the power is. It also depend at what speed you want to run the SP20 but i assumed you'd be feeding it 1000-1100w. I got dual 1,200 WATT PSU Running mine now but I am not concerned about power costs for them I simply want to whore them out and run them as fast as I can. Within spec of course I am not out to kill my hardware. Then, you're fine. I use EVGA G2/GS not because of efficiency, but because they're rock solid, clean, stable power, doesn't burn out my hardware. The 91% efficiency is just a plus, which is nice since it generate less heat in my apartment. Also the 10/7years warranty... its nice. Definitively worth protecting your hardware, imo. |
|
|
|
Any of you guys knows of a single PSU that can drive the SP20E?
Personally, if i had nothing and i had to do it with a single PSU, i would buy and use a EVGA G2 1300w. Otherwise i would get 2x 750/850w EVGA G2/GS for cheaper or the same price. The Bitmain's one would also work, but i have no personal experience with those, i don't know how clean the power is. It also depend at what speed you want to run the SP20 but i assumed you'd be feeding it 1000-1100w. |
|
|
|
|
Show Posts
