If you are located within North American Regioin, Please return this S3 to the following address with a tracking number and PM your shipping address, phone number and the e-mail address in the original shipping box (if possible) Bitmain Warranty 3700 Quebec St. #100239 Denver, Colorado 80207 Phone: 844-248-6246 Thank you!! Did you do it this way? First: Disconnect the cable connected to Chain#1 to test Chain#2 hash board.
Second: Disconnect cables connected to Chain#1 and Chain#2, turn over the control board, and then connect the Chain#1 to Connector#2 of the control board, to test Chain#1 hash board.
Note: Since there is no +12v in the Connector 1#, you have to turn over the control board to test Chain 1#
Thanks to point that out. Those are the small things that the eye sometimes skips. Gonna test it that way and post the results here. I turned over the control board and connected the connector #1 to the chain #2. It didn't worked. I quite don't get why do I have to flip the controller over since I see the screws holding it to the case are only grounding the PCB. I checked the cables were connected correctly.  Quick Recap: So far: - Both Connector #1 and chain #1 connected; Connector #2 and chain #2 connected: Machine boots, Status>MinerStatus>AntMiner is empty. Red and Green leds on.
- Only Connector #1 and chain #1 connected: Machine doesn't boot, fan attached to the chain #1 blows at 100%, the other one 0 RPM. Both red and green leds are off.
- Only Connector #1 and chain #2 connected: Machine doesn't boot, fan attached to the chain #2 blows at 100%, the other one 0 RPM. Both red and green leds are off.
- Only Connector #2 and chain #1 connected: Machine boots, Status>MinerStatus>AntMiner shows the info of the Chain 1. Asic status: "oooooooo oooooooo". Red led off. Only green led is on.
- Only Connector #2 and chain #2 connected: Machine boots, Status>MinerStatus>AntMiner shows the info of the Chain 2. Asic status: "oooooooo oooooooo". Red led off. Only green led is on.
- Only Connector #1 and chain #2 connected, PCB turned over.: Machine doesn't boot, fan attached to the chain #2 blows at 100%, the other one 0 RPM. Both red and green leds are off.
Thanks, EDIT: Fixing typos. |
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Can you try hard reset by pressing the button with a paperclip for a few seconds and then wait for 2 minutes and turn it off? If the reset worked, the IP address will be 192.168.1.99 the button is right side of the Ethernet port. I have one S3 now that seems to be broken.  The LED's on the nic light up and blink like usual. When I reset and reboot, the red LED light will blink 8-9 times fast then 1 slow blink and repeats about a dozen times then turns off. I cannot access the web gui at any time. Can anyone tell me what is at fault here? Maybe I can use the parts from an S1 to bring it back to life? |
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C1 is shipping in the order it was placed and the cooling kits are shipping, too!!! If for some reasons, if your units are not shipping, please contact info@bitmiantech.com or PM BITMAIN or PM us Any news if C1 is actually shipping as stated or going to be delayed?
Anyone received the cooling kit yet ?
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@kilo17,
Thank you for sharing the info!!
If the Beagle Bone was fried, when the PSU went down, your unit is covered under the warranty. Please contact Bitmain or tech support and the tech can arrange you the replacement Beagle Bone.
We have beagle bones and the control PCB in stock for RMA needs!
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If you still need a help, please let us know or call +1-844-248-6246 and one of the techs will help you configure it via remote screen share. S1 has 2 versions. One could be the default IP of 191.168.1.99 and the other could be 192.168.2.99 Hello, this is my first post. I've recently purchased s1 Antminers from ebay and am having trouble getting the gui to show in my firefox browser they are powering up ok but when I put the ip in firefox its not showing up I'm using win7 and am stuck. I've tried a factory reset but may be doing it wrong, also am using a billion router thankyou
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Will post a Kill-a-watt reading with photos for you guys later next week! Anyone know how many watts the cooling system uses? I'm guessing around 30watts. Wondering if it would be possible to run 2 C1's (840w) on 1 1600watt EVGA power supply with 2 water cooling kits even though it's a little over specs, anyone already try this? (70A each C1 plus water cooking kit x2 is more than the 133.3A 12v rating for the 1600w).
Probably more like 50w to run the fans and pump. Even if the psu doesn't constantly trip on overcurrent protection, your ac/dc efficiency will suck if the psu is pushed past 105% rating. If it's 92% efficiency at 80% load it may only be 85% efficiency at the load you want to put on it. |
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C1 and S4 uses differnt control PCB and no wireless feature is supported. You can use wifi bridge like below AntMiner Alternate Wi-Fi Mining  Here is an easy solution for you and we tested it for over a week on S4 and so far it’s working. You can use any similar items to make it work. We picked readily available item at the US BestBuy Store. Netgear Model#: WNCE2001-100NAS. (Price was $49.99)If you happens to be living in a dorm, apartment or wherever you can only access to the internet via Wi-Fi, this will make the Bitmain Antminer believe it’s connected to the wired Ethernet and this will not stress the miner. We purchased the above item to test it out with the AntMiner and it worked! The S1s were natively wireless and I modded all 7 of my S3s to make them wireless. The reasons are pretty simple: I didn't want to run cable all over the house, I wanted to be spread them out on multiple power circuits throughout the house, and I wanted the ability to easily move the miners depending on the weather (now that it's fall in the mid atlantic, I am saving some money on heating at night  ). I ordered two C1s a couple of days ago, and now believe the controller board is completely different on the C1 than on the S1 or S3 and that it does not support WiFi. Can anyone confirm / deny this? If wireless is not natively supported on the C1, does anyone have a good (inexpensive) way to mod the C1 to make it wireless? The mod for the S3 was like 7 bucks a unit and took all of 10 minutes. Thanks in advance for any advice. |
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This feature is not officially supported. https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=395721.0 option can be used if you manually modify the config file, however, the risk of messing up the S4 is too high. (Most of the config file mistakes can be reset via factory reset) https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=395721.0 should give you some insight how to do this step by step!!! Yes, you can do so, but you have to log in to S4 via SSH.
You haven't answered HOW to do this. What to modify. Which settings to change. |
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Yes, you can do so, but you have to log in to S4 via SSH. Putty software can be downloaded from their website @ http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.htmlModifying the config file value that is not modifiable via the web control panel, may voids the warranty. Use CAUTION when you modify this setting. Any file you attempt to make changes, please make a back up file first!! cp originalfilename originalfilename.copy then use command such as "vi" to edit the file. If something really goes wrong, you can always try to factory reset the S4 by using a paperclip to the bottom hole (left side bottom) next to the LCB screen. Press and hold the button for at least 5 seconds and let it go. Then wait for 2 minutes, power it off and power it back on! If that doesn't work, you can always reimage the default image file from http://www.bitmaintech.com Support Page. PSA: Tim.Shao19 is from Bitmain Tech |
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Yes, all S4, the IP address of S4 will be shown at the LCD. S4 New batch, please connect your S4 to the router or switch and look for the IP address on the LCD Monitor/Screen!!
Can you clarify it more of what to look at? According to DOGE guide of the S4, the IP will also be displayed on the LCD from the first batch he/she got. |
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S4 New batch, please connect your S4 to the router or switch and look for the IP address on the LCD Monitor/Screen!!
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you can under-clock it but please use caution. Default setting is 218.75 for S3 I'm looking to undervolt my S3, is it possible to go lower than 218.75. I was thinking closer to 150. Do you know if that will be an issue?
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Yes, the firmware for S3 and S3+ are compatible, however, for S3, after upgrading the firmware, PLEASE SELECT 218.75 Frequency from Miner Config Tab, Advanced Setting Page. I tried looking, but there is just so many post to go through.
Is it possible to load this antMiner_S320140826.bin firmware pre s3+?
Its not very clear on the bitmain support page.
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If you buy direct from http://www.bitmaintech.com or http://www.bitmain.com you know it is the batch 2 with a new PSU, tho  But depends on where you are in the world, resellers may make sense, too If your unit was shipped directly from the factory after October 10th, the S4 has different PSU (Replaced PSU) inside. If you purchased from any third party but the unit was shipped from the factory after October 10th, the S4 has Batch 2 PSU. I will go look for the pictures if there are any difference in physical appearance.
How do you tell if we got the batch 2 with the new PSU? I ordered from a third party site claiming to be from batch 2, but is worried they might of sent a S4 from batch 1. Is there anything you can give us to tell the difference from batch 1 and batch 2 of the new PSU from the S4?
Thank you, providing pictures would be best or maybe some indication by serial numbers of the S4? I'm assuming resellers would say they have the latest batch just to get it sold or trying to sell a used or older S4 batch as a newer batch. And there would be no way proving it unless you will be able to provide us with some differences for us to check on our own =) Thanks for the update and I will wait for your responses to keep my mind at ease and not risking my S4 burning down my house or not worrying if it is an actually Batch 2 model and not a Batch 1. |
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Where did you buy it?  If you can, try to build it back into S1, then hard reset the control card. From there, you can upgrade the firmware to S3+ Hope this will fix it, if not RMA...  Yes; i read about it too about cables not been seated.
The weird thing is that it worked for 30-60 sec when i went upstairs. And now the red led on the "S3" board barely lights up and fans on full speed. Maybe a faulty "S3" board then. Or could it be something wrong with the S1 control board?
What should i do? =(
Thanks for the replies.
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If you could, build the unit back as S1 and see if it functions. If it works, then convert it to S3+ again. Please check each cable to make sure they are seated well. When you upgrade, please upgrade the firmware to S3 as S1 frequency is way to high for S3+ unit. If you rebuilt the S1 and it works, but then S3+ will not work after the upgrade, please contact the seller for after sales support. If you purchased it from Ebay or Amazon or any other online retailers, you may be entitled to a full or partial refund per their policy Hi!
Got my upgrade kit today. I followed the youtube video. Everything went well and i powered it up. Lights strt to blink on the control boards and the Lan connection. Then i went upstairs to my computer to make the firmware update to S3 firmware. Before i managed to login to my upgraded S1 i hear suddenly that the fans started to blow full power making lot of noise and went down stair to check. Found that no lights were blinking. One led light (red) were barely lighten up on the new controller board, you almost couldnt see it.
I checked all the cables tried with 2 PSU (Corsair CX600) at the same time. no progress =(
Any ideas or tips? Is my upgrade kit f****d up? =(
Thanks
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If your unit was shipped directly from the factory after October 10th, the S4 has different PSU (Replaced PSU) inside. If you purchased from any third party but the unit was shipped from the factory after October 10th, the S4 has Batch 2 PSU. I will go look for the pictures if there are any difference in physical appearance.
How do you tell if we got the batch 2 with the new PSU? I ordered from a third party site claiming to be from batch 2, but is worried they might of sent a S4 from batch 1. Is there anything you can give us to tell the difference from batch 1 and batch 2 of the new PSU from the S4?
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@Coinnilingus
Sent you PM for the RMA process info.
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If one hashing card connected to the control PCB and it doesn't hash, please try connecting the Hashing PCB to the other connector slot on the S3 control PCB. S3 control has to have Chain 1 side connected in order to hash.
UPDATE
I removed the cover from the s3 and noticed one of the capacitors had fallen off =)
is there a way to have the s3 hash with only 1 hashing board ? apparently if one board is faulty the s3 does not hash at all--am I wrong ?
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