ANTMINER C1 Discussion and Support Thread

[etile]

Hi


Now I have 850W at 1000GH at 0720 voltage with 250 MHz freq

I use SD-C1-20141126.tar.gz firmware and try down voltage to 0600 with 100Mhz freq, save and restart.

But energy efficency is the same - about 0.85 W/GH  - 322 Watt / 400 GH

I want 0.5 - 0.6 W/GH,   so I want 200-240 Watt at 400GH

Is it possible with Antminer C1 ?

Does voltage changing should change power consumption? This is not present in my case.

[dogie]

Does voltage changing should change power consumption? This is not present in my case.

Not on all S3s, and probably on even less C1s. They don't all have variable voltage control.

[mavericklm]

Hi all!

Is this miner like de crazy s3 beeper of all beeps? i got s1 and beeps, s2 not much beeps, s3 is the king as it's waking me up in the night, few times/week!

I need a quiet miner for a family member with not so deep pockets and in need of heat!

Is this miner a beeper like s3?

Thank you!

[dogie]

Hi all!

Is this miner like de crazy s3 beeper of all beeps? i got s1 and beeps, s2 not much beeps, s3 is the king as it's waking me up in the night, few times/week!

I need a quiet miner for a family member with not so deep pockets and in need of heat!

Is this miner a beeper like s3?

Thank you!

I've never ever heard mine beep. And looking at my pictures, I don't think there even is a buzzer on them because they're BBB based.

[mavericklm]

Bbb? Nice! From 4 s2 of mine, 2 have issues with the bbb; already bought 1 normal bbb for back-up
At least i got no buzzer!

[IITravel01]

I'm new to liquid cooling computers, but remember it was stated to not use copper radiators.  Is there a way (liquid) to use a copper radiator(s) with the C1 to prevent the corrosion caused by mixing the two metals?

[Photon939]

Hi all!

Is this miner like de crazy s3 beeper of all beeps? i got s1 and beeps, s2 not much beeps, s3 is the king as it's waking me up in the night, few times/week!

I need a quiet miner for a family member with not so deep pockets and in need of heat!

Is this miner a beeper like s3?

Thank you!

I've never ever heard mine beep. And looking at my pictures, I don't think there even is a buzzer on them because they're BBB based.

I've had mine beep during the original setup - the buzzer is on the FPGA board the BBB plugs into. If you have backup pools enabled and you still get beeping your internet connection or router probably sucks.

[dogie]

I'm new to liquid cooling computers, but remember it was stated to not use copper radiators.  Is there a way (liquid) to use a copper radiator(s) with the C1 to prevent the corrosion caused by mixing the two metals?

Any PC watercooling fluid, its more expensive but it'll do what you're asking.

[zelenoto]

Seems like as long as the SD card is good, the C1 is a very reliable miner. I had some issues with mine on startup but wiping the SD card and uploading Dogie's original disk image got me up and running.

Anyone have better uptime yet?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1181169/C1.png

What is your voltage setting? 0760?

[soy]

I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.  One might find a Kleinschmidt tester from a WWII submarine and periodically test the fluid's conductivity and simply replace when it rises.  I wonder how auto antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water tests for conductivity.  I think it's the use of tap water with its potentially high conductivity even mixed with auto antifreeze that might be damaging.  The lubricating properties of auto antifreeze is attractive for its pump life extension.  Down here in the south it's necessary to run 50% distilled water with the antifreeze in mid-summer as water has a better heat carrying capability then antifreeze.  Still, if one were adding an outdoor cooler in addition to the stock radiator perhaps pure auto antifreeze would be sufficient.  

Most newer auto radiators are aluminum core clamped to plastic tops and bottoms.  The plastic cracks in an accident but that could be repaired with epoxy as in our use the system isn't pressurized - leave the radiator cap loose outside.  A typical electric heater in a home might be 1200 watts.  A C1 putting out 850 watts is unreasonable indoors in the summer.  Putting the stock radiator facing out a window is an option but you'll be sucking in an equal amount of hot air from outside.  Putting the stock radiator completely outside will only cool to the outside ambient.  If instead one adds an outside car radiator to pre-cool, then with the stock radiator inside it would only need to cool down fluid that's at outside ambient and since the stock radiator will be inside it will drop the temp to whatever one has the room cooled to.  This leave most of the heat outside.

[dogie]

I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

[soy]

I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

[dogie]

I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

My pump at least is constant RPM and doesn't vary. The C1's fan does vary with chip temps, but is very conservative until things really start to heat up.

[soy]

I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

My pump at least is constant RPM and doesn't vary. The C1's fan does vary with chip temps, but is very conservative until things really start to heat up.

So do the fans on the cooler have a controller board that vary those fan rates?

It's been a warm winter the single polar vortex-like drop notwithstanding.    Outside in the shade right now this Dec. 26 is 55.6°.  If I go to an outdoor pre-cooler for summer heat, perhaps dripping water on the pre-cooler will help.

Maybe putting a de-ionizing sink water filter in the circuit of having a copper radiator and running pure distilled water.

[dogie]

I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

My pump at least is constant RPM and doesn't vary. The C1's fan does vary with chip temps, but is very conservative until things really start to heat up.

So do the fans on the cooler have a controller board that vary those fan rates?

The only variable fan is the C1's fan, which plugs in directly to one of the PCBs and is software controlled.

[notlist3d]

I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

My pump at least is constant RPM and doesn't vary. The C1's fan does vary with chip temps, but is very conservative until things really start to heat up.

So do the fans on the cooler have a controller board that vary those fan rates?

The only variable fan is the C1's fan, which plugs in directly to one of the PCBs and is software controlled.

If you want variable you could buy a fan controller to hook to them.  But Dogie is correct about all the watercooling in most cases being constant.

[dogie]

If you want variable you could buy a fan controller to hook to them.  But Dogie is correct about all the watercooling in most cases being constant.

That's a good idea, if you want to add some control you could wack the pump and others through a fan controller (making sure it can take the W per channel of a pump first!). Although, why exactly do you want to lower the pump, its probably saving you power by running at max rpm and keeping board temps cooler.

[grn]

You could plug the pump directly to one of the hashing board headers

[soy]

You could plug the pump directly to one of the hashing board headers

Has anyone tried this?  Could feedback response time be a problem?  Constantly running the pump at a set speed that would be less a problem but slow that fluid down and this could warm up quickly. 

I suspect I will absolutely need an outdoor pre-cooler once it gets warm this spring.  I have a thermostat circuit I use for a DIY egg incubator.  Less difficult controlling a 12vdc pump to put water onto an outdoor pre-cooler that will have air passing over it.  The system isn't pressurized so the sensor can be mounted in the water outflow of the pre-cooler.  I lived in Tuson back in the early 1970's and the place had a cooler on the roof.  A large box-like enclosure with the 4 sides having material much like air conditioning filter material.  Water would pass down thru the material and in the center air was sucked into the home.  It's very dry in Arizona so it worked there without the home becoming too humid.  Running water over an outdoor pre-cooler wouldn't raise the humidity of the home here.  Georgia is much more humid than Arizona.

[notlist3d]

You could plug the pump directly to one of the hashing board headers

Has anyone tried this?  Could feedback response time be a problem?  Constantly running the pump at a set speed that would be less a problem but slow that fluid down and this could warm up quickly. 

I suspect I will absolutely need an outdoor pre-cooler once it gets warm this spring.  I have a thermostat circuit I use for a DIY egg incubator.  Less difficult controlling a 12vdc pump to put water onto an outdoor pre-cooler that will have air passing over it.  The system isn't pressurized so the sensor can be mounted in the water outflow of the pre-cooler.  I lived in Tuson back in the early 1970's and the place had a cooler on the roof.  A large box-like enclosure with the 4 sides having material much like air conditioning filter material.  Water would pass down thru the material and in the center air was sucked into the home.  It's very dry in Arizona so it worked there without the home becoming too humid.  Running water over an outdoor pre-cooler wouldn't raise the humidity of the home here.  Georgia is much more humid than Arizona.

The first harness did this it was not the greatest.  If you make one with higher quality wire and keep wires from touching each other it could work.

I would personally go for molex to fan connector.  You get a constant speed. With it you don't get a variable speed, but you will always have it being powered when unit is on.  Also saves troubles you will see twords first of thread.