ANTMINER C1 Discussion and Support Thread

[soy]

My pump died within 2 months of batch 2!

I've emailed bitmain for rma details...

Anyone else had this problem in batch 2??

May I ask if you were using tap water, distilled water or coolent?

[IonHammer]

I received my C1 today, on reading Doggie's guide and the cooling system notes I received, I concluded that I didn't want to power the cooling rig directly from the C1,
I bought 3 Molex pentuim fan cables, two for the Radiator fans and one for the pump. Although the pump is a 4 pin unit when I checked with the supplied harness,
only two pin's are used to power the pump in the same wiring setup as a fan. So with a bit of care you can plug the 3 pin fan connector into the 4 pin pump connector.

Now I could setup and test the water cooling without the main  C1 being powered. After getting most of the air bubbles out and testing for leaks for a few hours,
I applied all the PCIE connectors and started the unit up. I nice surprise is that with the C1 I can connected from my adsl modem network view page on the hostname which I
couldn't do with my S3's.

So far hashing at 990 GH/S in stock setup and running temps of 41/42 across all blades, room temp is about 25 C.

I am impressed with the noise I was running 4 S3's in my office holy cow that was a little noisy.
I will need to go though most of this thread seeing what pumps people are switching to, as I am not real sure I will get a long run out of the stock unit.

Oh I didn't have any specific cooling liquid so I am using distilled water at the moment?

Also I am running a Coolmaster V1000 gold psu seem to have all the right connectors and big single rail required for a C1.

Cheers

 

[dogie]

Oh I didn't have any specific cooling liquid so I am using distilled water at the moment?

You will have problems due to the mix of copper and aluminium in the loop. I have no idea over what timescale it will become a problem, but it would be advisable to add an additive or swap out to dedicated coolant which won't have the same problem.

[IonHammer]

Oh I didn't have any specific cooling liquid so I am using distilled water at the moment?

You will have problems due to the mix of copper and aluminium in the loop. I have no idea over what timescale it will become a problem, but it would be advisable to add an additive or swap out to dedicated coolant which won't have the same problem.

thanks for the info I will have a scan round for some decent water cooling liquid.

[dunand]

My pump died within 2 months of batch 2!

I've emailed bitmain for rma details...

Anyone else had this problem in batch 2??

Do you have an idea of what went wrong?

Did you fill the reservoir completely or you leaved some air?

Did you tighten the reservoir cap tightly or you leaved a loose so air could escape if the pressure is too high?

At some point did you run the pump without water?

[soy]

I received my C1 today, on reading Doggie's guide and the cooling system notes I received, I concluded that I didn't want to power the cooling rig directly from the C1,
I bought 3 Molex pentuim fan cables, two for the Radiator fans and one for the pump. Although the pump is a 4 pin unit when I checked with the supplied harness,
only two pin's are used to power the pump in the same wiring setup as a fan. So with a bit of care you can plug the 3 pin fan connector into the 4 pin pump connector.

Now I could setup and test the water cooling without the main  C1 being powered. After getting most of the air bubbles out and testing for leaks for a few hours,
I applied all the PCIE connectors and started the unit up. I nice surprise is that with the C1 I can connected from my adsl modem network view page on the hostname which I
couldn't do with my S3's.

So far hashing at 990 GH/S in stock setup and running temps of 41/42 across all blades, room temp is about 25 C.

I am impressed with the noise I was running 4 S3's in my office holy cow that was a little noisy.
I will need to go though most of this thread seeing what pumps people are switching to, as I am not real sure I will get a long run out of the stock unit.

Oh I didn't have any specific cooling liquid so I am using distilled water at the moment?

Also I am running a Coolmaster V1000 gold psu seem to have all the right connectors and big single rail required for a C1.

Cheers

 

So no difficulty seeing air bubbles thru the clear tubing while getting the air out? 

Mine was suppose to arrive today but I screwed up and used my PO Box as a UPS shipping address.  It's out for delivery but will head back to the office after customer hours so am told I can't get it until tomorrow.

Was thinking of distilled water with food coloring but if the clear tubing stains that won't work well.

[soy]

Oh I didn't have any specific cooling liquid so I am using distilled water at the moment?

You will have problems due to the mix of copper and aluminium in the loop. I have no idea over what timescale it will become a problem, but it would be advisable to add an additive or swap out to dedicated coolant which won't have the same problem.

So the provided cooling radiator is copper?   That's a surprise.

Because water carries 50% more heat than ethylene glycol, the basic ingredient in most antifreeze coolant,  I want to use distilled water (~.68 cents/gallon in Walmart) and perhaps rig up a PVC water filter with the guts from a quality water filter advertising removal of metal ions.

Beta-amyloid, the stuff implicated in causing Alzheimers Disease, is linked to two copper and a zinc molecule(s).  So, with copper piping in most  homes built last century, many are struggling to get the copper out of their water.  Copper removing filters are available.

[notlist3d]

Oh I didn't have any specific cooling liquid so I am using distilled water at the moment?

You will have problems due to the mix of copper and aluminium in the loop. I have no idea over what timescale it will become a problem, but it would be advisable to add an additive or swap out to dedicated coolant which won't have the same problem.

So the provided cooling radiator is copper?   That's a surprise.

Because water carries 50% more heat than ethylene glycol, the basic ingredient in most antifreeze coolant,  I want to use distilled water (~.68 cents/gallon in Walmart) and perhaps rig up a PVC water filter with the guts from a quality water filter advertising removal of metal ions.

Go with the coolant.   What ever you save initially you will pay more in the long run if you don't have coolant or additives if you truly have to go with water.

[soy]

Oh I didn't have any specific cooling liquid so I am using distilled water at the moment?

You will have problems due to the mix of copper and aluminium in the loop. I have no idea over what timescale it will become a problem, but it would be advisable to add an additive or swap out to dedicated coolant which won't have the same problem.

So the provided cooling radiator is copper?   That's a surprise.

Because water carries 50% more heat than ethylene glycol, the basic ingredient in most antifreeze coolant,  I want to use distilled water (~.68 cents/gallon in Walmart) and perhaps rig up a PVC water filter with the guts from a quality water filter advertising removal of metal ions.

Go with the coolant.   What ever you save initially you will pay more in the long run if you don't have coolant or additives if you truly have to go with water.

Well, the corrosion shown at a water block port was likely caused by the use of hard tap water.  Distilled water alone would have slowed that way down.  Distilled water with an ion filter it likely won't happen.  We're talking about a 50% increase in heat carrying capability over ethylene glycol.  When you use the phrase "in the long run" you must be addressing those getting free electric. e.g. padding their office expenses as for the rest of us profitability might not last long beyond recovering cost.  Look at the Jalapeno.

[dogie]

Oh I didn't have any specific cooling liquid so I am using distilled water at the moment?

You will have problems due to the mix of copper and aluminium in the loop. I have no idea over what timescale it will become a problem, but it would be advisable to add an additive or swap out to dedicated coolant which won't have the same problem.

So the provided cooling radiator is copper?   That's a surprise.

Because water carries 50% more heat than ethylene glycol, the basic ingredient in most antifreeze coolant,  I want to use distilled water (~.68 cents/gallon in Walmart) and perhaps rig up a PVC water filter with the guts from a quality water filter advertising removal of metal ions.

Go with the coolant.   What ever you save initially you will pay more in the long run if you don't have coolant or additives if you truly have to go with water.

Well, the corrosion shown at a water block port was likely caused by the use of hard tap water.  Distilled water alone would have slowed that way down.  Distilled water with an ion filter it likely won't happen.  We're talking about a 50% increase in heat carrying capability over ethylene glycol.  When you use the phrase "in the long run" you must be addressing those getting free electric. e.g. padding their office expenses as for the rest of us profitability might not last long beyond recovering cost.  Look at the Jalapeno.

The heat capacity of water over EG doesn't impact performance that considerably as the bottleneck for heat removal is the dissipation of heat from the radiator (not to the radiator, or block to water). It is measurable, but its not important to us.

[tbolt]

Oh I didn't have any specific cooling liquid so I am using distilled water at the moment?

You will have problems due to the mix of copper and aluminium in the loop. I have no idea over what timescale it will become a problem, but it would be advisable to add an additive or swap out to dedicated coolant which won't have the same problem.

So the provided cooling radiator is copper?   That's a surprise.

The provided cooling radiator is Aluminum.

[tbolt]

Mining C1 Cooling kit         
Item    QTY
AT360 Radiator    1
SC-P60 pump    1
N8 Transparent Tube    2.5
4-Fan Wiring Harness, 3-Pin   1
 
Φ11 Hose Clamp    10
R45Bracket for Radiator    2
G1/8-8 Thread    2
6-32*8 Screw for Bracket    2
 
Specification:
PUMP   SC-P60 Water cooling pump
    Max Pumping Height    3.0m
   Max Fow    450L/h
   Volume   80 ml
   Life Expectancy   50000h
   Bearing    Ceramic bearing
   Max current   1.2A
   Max voltage   DC12V
   Noise    23 DB
   Size    56mm*56mm*63.5mm（not include output and input connection and cushion ）
   Connection threads:   G1/4 thread fitting.
Radiator    AT360 Aluminum Radiator
    Material    Aluminum
   size   405×119.5×27mm
   Connection Way    G1/4screw threads and barb ID ：6mm/8mm /10mm
   Finishing    Painting
               
The waterpump SC-P60         
Radiator   AT360         
fan    120mm x 25mm         
tube   N8         

[ilostmyface]

I like the quietness of the C1. Very Nice in an apartment. I am wondering what the S5's noise level runs at?

Thinking about breaking down my GPU rig/selling and buying another.. turn them both to solo and hope for a home run.

[IonHammer]

[/quote]

So no difficulty seeing air bubbles thru the clear tubing while getting the air out? 

Mine was suppose to arrive today but I screwed up and used my PO Box as a UPS shipping address.  It's out for delivery but will head back to the office after customer hours so am told I can't get it until tomorrow.

Was thinking of distilled water with food coloring but if the clear tubing stains that won't work well.
[/quote]

Doggie's guide it very helpful if you have no water cooling experience, make sure you pay attention to the water flow around your setup the guide has pictures just follow them.

I like having my cooling rig running from my psu not my C1 as I could run the pump and get the fluid sorted without any C1 issues.

As far as air bubbles go, the main thing is read the guide filling the pump res while holding it above the C1 and Rad means you can get a lot of air out at the start, then you just need to cycle the power a few times as the res can empty out into the rig as the air comes out. I think I refilled mine 4 times or so ( As i was using Distilled water its not that messy with proper fluid I would use a filler bottle).

Don't forget to rotate your rad, I rotated my C1 a few times to get some of the last bubbles out some were quite big.

Oh Doggie mentioned we should use PC cooling fluid as the Distilled water has issues over the long term. I am ordering that as I write this.

Oh and finally the air bubbles should end up in your res so as long and you rotate you main item's around, any air pockets will get back to the res/pump.

good luck
 

[dogie]

Mining C1 Cooling kit         
Item    QTY
AT360 Radiator    1
SC-P60 pump    1
N8 Transparent Tube    2.5
4-Fan Wiring Harness, 3-Pin   1
 
Φ11 Hose Clamp    10
R45Bracket for Radiator    2
G1/8-8 Thread    2
6-32*8 Screw for Bracket    2
 
Specification:
PUMP   SC-P60 Water cooling pump
    Max Pumping Height    3.0m
   Max Fow    450L/h
   Volume   80 ml
   Life Expectancy   50000h
   Bearing    Ceramic bearing
   Max current   1.2A
   Max voltage   DC12V
   Noise    23 DB
   Size    56mm*56mm*63.5mm（not include output and input connection and cushion ）
   Connection threads:   G1/4 thread fitting.
Radiator    AT360 Aluminum Radiator
    Material    Aluminum
   size   405×119.5×27mm
   Connection Way    G1/4screw threads and barb ID ：6mm/8mm /10mm
   Finishing    Painting
               
The waterpump SC-P60         
Radiator   AT360         
fan    120mm x 25mm         
tube   N8         

In other places it mentions copper in the radiator. The chambers are definitely coated with something, and the connectors (and inside the threads) with something also. It doesn't cost much more to be safe, rather than slowly ruining a C1 and cooling kit.

[soy]

Oh I didn't have any specific cooling liquid so I am using distilled water at the moment?

So no difficulty seeing air bubbles thru the clear tubing while getting the air out?  

Mine was suppose to arrive today but I screwed up and used my PO Box as a UPS shipping address.  It's out for delivery but will head back to the office after customer hours so am told I can't get it until tomorrow.

Was thinking of distilled water with food coloring but if the clear tubing stains that won't work well.

Doggie's guide it very helpful if you have no water cooling experience, make sure you pay attention to the water flow around your setup the guide has pictures just follow them.

I like having my cooling rig running from my psu not my C1 as I could run the pump and get the fluid sorted without any C1 issues.

As far as air bubbles go, the main thing is read the guide filling the pump res while holding it above the C1 and Rad means you can get a lot of air out at the start, then you just need to cycle the power a few times as the res can empty out into the rig as the air comes out. I think I refilled mine 4 times or so ( As i was using Distilled water its not that messy with proper fluid I would use a filler bottle).

Don't forget to rotate your rad, I rotated my C1 a few times to get some of the last bubbles out some were quite big.

Oh Doggie mentioned we should use PC cooling fluid as the Distilled water has issues over the long term. I am ordering that as I write this.

Oh and finally the air bubbles should end up in your res so as long and you rotate you main item's around, any air pockets will get back to the res/pump.

good luck
 

Thanks.  Am sitting here waiting for delivery within the next few hours and the thought arises: where did I leave my Teflon tape last?

I wonder if this is a positive displacement pump.  A positive displacement pump might have two gears meshing in the center while fluid is forced around the gears outer sides.  Or a positive displacement pump might be a flexible tube inside a semicircle and an inner circular drive wheel having rollers on the outside compressing the tube against semicircle forcing fluid in the direction of rotation.  Or a positive displacement pump might be a pump with a piston and valves.  A non-positive displacement pump would be like a jet pump.

[tbolt]

[/quote]

In other places it mentions copper in the radiator.

[/quote]

What other places?

Everything I have read says that it is a an Aluminum Radiator.
On  both the Bitmain website and the Syscooling website.

[fyrfterjr]

For all you out there with pump problems, I've been running my C1B1 since I got it in the mail with a $8.00 Harbor Freight submersible fountain pump with a Home Depot paint bucket for a reservoir.  I read all the horror stories about the Syscooling pump so I figured I'd try the HF one to see what happens.  I thought I'd use the Sys pump when the HF one gave up but so far I've had no problems.

[irobb]

Hi guys -

Just put my C1 together. Prior to upgrading to latest firmware, all chains showed X across each row...  Now I show this weird thing in chain 1 and a few X's on chain 4...

http://postimg.org/image/3yowupfdz/

Any thoughts?  I am using RM-1000 PSU.

[soy]

Am just about to fire mine up too.  Have just done nmap.  I've run the pump of course in getting the air out but about to apply power to the miner.  I'm trying this with 4 PCIE-8 connectors not 8 only because I don't have the other 4 yet.  If the wires show heat, excessive current, I'll shut down an S3 and get the connectors I need. ...