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Author Topic: [ANN] Bitfury ASIC sales in EU and Europe  (Read 250497 times)
cscape
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September 07, 2013, 07:22:13 AM
 #981

Use pencil mod on R2F, make it around 1.1 - 1.2K, voltage goes from 0.66V to 0.81V. The default value is ~1.3K. It may blow the 30AFuse if you go too high; so make sure you do it only if you have a soldering station handy Wink
What is "pencil mod" ?

Note there's no 30A fuse, and it doesn't blow. There's a resettable polyfuse in the 12A supply. If there's too much current, it will get hot, and as it gets hot the resistance increases, which will reduce current. It is resettable, which means that after removing power and letting it cool down, it will restore itself. There's no need to replace it.

Unfortunately, these polyfuses aren't particularly accurate or fast. Don't depend on them to save your board. Their purpose is to protect your power supply from blatant shorts on the H-CARD.

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September 07, 2013, 07:29:10 AM
Last edit: September 07, 2013, 07:40:58 AM by -Redacted-
 #982

Use pencil mod on R2F, make it around 1.1 - 1.2K, voltage goes from 0.66V to 0.81V. The default value is ~1.3K. It may blow the 30AFuse if you go too high; so make sure you do it only if you have a soldering station handy Wink
What is "pencil mod" ?

Note there's no 30A fuse, and it doesn't blow. There's a resettable polyfuse in the 12A supply. If there's too much current, it will get hot, and as it gets hot the resistance increases, which will reduce current. It is resettable, which means that after removing power and letting it cool down, it will restore itself. There's no need to replace it.

Unfortunately, these polyfuses aren't particularly accurate or fast. Don't depend on them to save your board. Their purpose is to protect your power supply from blatant shorts on the H-CARD.

Pencil mod is lightly drawing lines between the two soldered ends of a resistor using a graphite pencil, which is slightly conductive.  This is essentially putting another resistor in parallel with the one you are modding - dropping the overall resistance.  The more lines you draw and the more graphite you put down, the lower the value of your parallel resistor, and the overall resistance, goes.
goxed
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September 07, 2013, 07:33:26 AM
 #983

Use pencil mod on R2F, make it around 1.1 - 1.2K, voltage goes from 0.66V to 0.81V. The default value is ~1.3K. It may blow the 30AFuse if you go too high; so make sure you do it only if you have a soldering station handy Wink
What is "pencil mod" ?

Note there's no 30A fuse, and it doesn't blow. There's a resettable polyfuse in the 12A supply. If there's too much current, it will get hot, and as it gets hot the resistance increases, which will reduce current. It is resettable, which means that after removing power and letting it cool down, it will restore itself. There's no need to replace it.

Unfortunately, these polyfuses aren't particularly accurate or fast. Don't depend on them to save your board. Their purpose is to protect your power supply from blatant shorts on the H-CARD.
Ahh thanks for the heads up. I thought that was a fuse that would blow. The label on it is 300L alpha, so I thought for a moment it was a 30A. Forgot that it was placed in the 12V input.
 Also the user above explained pencil mod Smiley.

Revewing Bitcoin / Crypto mining Hardware.
mr_rulezzz
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September 07, 2013, 07:57:27 AM
 #984

Guys heads up on pencil mod for overvolting and thus aiding overclocking.
Use pencil mod on R2F, make it around 1.1 - 1.2K, voltage goes from 0.66V to 0.81V. The default value is ~1.3K. It may blow the 30AFuse if you go too high; so make sure you do it only if you have a soldering station handy Wink

After Mod (I have only 3 H cards )
Code:
Bank 1
1: 30.781GH/s
2: 33.315GH/s
3: 30.022GH/s
4: 0GH/s

how to? risks? pics? =)

darkfriend77
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September 07, 2013, 10:07:43 AM
 #985

Guys heads up on pencil mod for overvolting and thus aiding overclocking.
Use pencil mod on R2F, make it around 1.1 - 1.2K, voltage goes from 0.66V to 0.81V. The default value is ~1.3K. It may blow the 30AFuse if you go too high; so make sure you do it only if you have a soldering station handy Wink

After Mod (I have only 3 H cards )
Code:
Bank 1
1: 30.781GH/s
2: 33.315GH/s
3: 30.022GH/s
4: 0GH/s

how to? risks? pics? =)




https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=287590.msg3099428#msg3099428

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cscape
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September 07, 2013, 10:38:47 AM
 #986

For a more durable way to overvoltage the boards you should replace resistor R01F. The nominal value is 1.0K, and to increase the voltage the resistor needs to be replaced with one of a higher value.

A value of 1.5K is generally still safe, and should increase voltage from 0.65 to 0.7. If you want to go higher, you can try 2.2K or maybe even 3.3K if you feel lucky.

Of course, as punin said, this will void your warranty, and may break your card. Keep a close eye on the regulator temperature. Also, the resistor is in a somewhat tricky position to desolder, and you risk getting tin on the pins of the regulator.

The resistor should be 0603 size to fit properly on the pad. Also, I recommend a 1% type with low temperature coefficient. Resistors with high positive temperature coefficient may cause thermal runaway: as the resistor heats up, the voltage increases, causing the resistor to heat up even more.



Note: if you accidentally mess up the capacitor next to the resistor (C10F), and you wish to replace it, use 1nF, 50V, X7R type. Similarly, resistor R02F is 10k, 1%.

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September 07, 2013, 10:45:44 AM
 #987



Pencil mod FTW!!

Noncerate: 56.951GH/s
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September 07, 2013, 11:05:11 AM
 #988

So @cscape - where can an average guy go to purchase a 1.5K  0603 resistor in onesie-twosie quantities?  I'm sure we can buy them for 0,01 somewhere but the shipping is going to be 1.000 times more than the part...
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September 07, 2013, 11:09:46 AM
 #989

a damn i have now a pencil in hand ...

... isn't the freestyle way just to .. rub 2 times over the R02F

... and go?

-:| www.DOTMog.com |:-
cscape
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September 07, 2013, 11:12:11 AM
 #990

I don't know where to get them in small quantities. I get them as 5000 piece reels for 5 EUR from Farnell.

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September 07, 2013, 11:40:54 AM
 #991

all the starter kits have problems or just some ?
i will receive mine on monday and im a little scared of all the issues i have seen here ... is there a chance mine not to have problems ?
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September 07, 2013, 11:41:20 AM
 #992

For a more durable way to overvoltage the boards you should replace resistor R01F. The nominal value is 1.0K, and to increase the voltage the resistor needs to be replaced with one of a higher value.

A value of 1.5K is generally still safe, and should increase voltage from 0.65 to 0.7. If you want to go higher, you can try 2.2K or maybe even 3.3K if you feel lucky.

Of course, as punin said, this will void your warranty, and may break your card. Keep a close eye on the regulator temperature. Also, the resistor is in a somewhat tricky position to desolder, and you risk getting tin on the pins of the regulator.

The resistor should be 0603 size to fit properly on the pad. Also, I recommend a 1% type with low temperature coefficient. Resistors with high positive temperature coefficient may cause thermal runaway: as the resistor heats up, the voltage increases, causing the resistor to heat up even more.



Note: if you accidentally mess up the capacitor next to the resistor (C10F), and you wish to replace it, use 1nF, 50V, X7R type. Similarly, resistor R02F is 10k, 1%.

eneloop
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September 07, 2013, 11:44:35 AM
 #993

all the starter kits have problems or just some ?
i will receive mine on monday and im a little scared of all the issues i have seen here ... is there a chance mine not to have problems ?
Mine is hashing at 43-45 GH/s out of the box (autotuning on). I had some issues using them in A1+B1, but in B1+C1 everything is fine.
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September 07, 2013, 12:43:14 PM
 #994

Is there any easy place to measure how much current each board takes so we can tailor a custom series of overclocked boards to keep under the 30A polyfuse?

Tired of substandard power distribution in your ASIC setup???   Chris' Custom Cablez will get you sorted out right!  No job too hard so PM me for a quote
Check my products or ask a question here: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=74397.0
integrity42
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September 07, 2013, 01:02:34 PM
 #995

Hi punin, I was wondering what your definition of a 'unit' is?

i.e. Would anything that fits on 1M-board, attached to 1 Raspberry Pi be considered a unit?

i.e. if I order enough hardware to fit on 2M-boards, i'd have 2 units?

Thanks.

juhakall
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September 07, 2013, 03:01:14 PM
 #996

Hi punin, I was wondering what your definition of a 'unit' is?

i.e. Would anything that fits on 1M-board, attached to 1 Raspberry Pi be considered a unit?

i.e. if I order enough hardware to fit on 2M-boards, i'd have 2 units?

Thanks.

At least have the decency to say why you're asking this, mr. Integrity:

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=289316.0
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September 07, 2013, 03:42:56 PM
 #997

Hi punin, I was wondering what your definition of a 'unit' is?

i.e. Would anything that fits on 1M-board, attached to 1 Raspberry Pi be considered a unit?

i.e. if I order enough hardware to fit on 2M-boards, i'd have 2 units?

Thanks.

At least have the decency to say why you're asking this, mr. Integrity:

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=289316.0


Wow... that's pretty lame.   No other vendor on here would have had the decency to supply extra hardware to prop up a performance shortage to the level promised, and you want to use that as a loophole to claim they haven't delivered what they advertised?   integrity indeed....  Undecided

18xEDfc7y1Nzm2kmLvwYq56xwwEz4Fdh6
integrity42
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September 07, 2013, 03:59:30 PM
 #998

BitFury and punin did a great job. They are heroes in the bitcoin community.

The bet is long over. Just confirming that a UNIT is whatever fits on a single M-board connected to a Raspberry-Pi.

And of course I have integrity. If I didn't, I would have created a second account to ask the question.  I have nothing to hide.

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September 07, 2013, 04:15:24 PM
 #999

..back on topic:

My unit still likes to perform bad when it feels like it. Currently it's 56gh instead of the usual 60-63 I got the last two days. It just drops the speed on two of three cards for like an hour or two and gets back to work. Sometime it helped to restart pi, change the best.cnf back to what I started with in the first place, sometimes not. I don't understand that hardware. I have always a fan slowly blowing air on the cards. The second miner (2nd pi, 2nd masterboard, 2hboards) does the same awkward thing. Both are working on eligius, 60gh @diff 128, 45gh @diff 64. I tried 256, but it fell down to 30gh for 2hours tonight.

punin, did you see that behaviour of chips/boards as well?

Hai
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September 07, 2013, 04:32:58 PM
 #1000

Both are working on eligius, 60gh @diff 128, 45gh @diff 64. I tried 256, but it fell down to 30gh for 2hours tonight.

diff 128 too much for 60gh i think ... 8-16 is nice.
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