Let it run till it gets hot then try a restart. Sometimes the boards flunk while cold, indicitive on bad solder joints between board and chip.
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I can relate to economizing and frugality up to a certain point, but at some point, you have to begin to treat yourself.
Yeah, while you are building your nest egg and your various financial assets, you might want to be extremely focused on utility and lack of depreciation; however, at some point, there is value in treating yourself and even showing status that comes with new products that depreciate - a car being a decent example of such.
Well, I did treat myself to a bit of a splurge, a 32 valve 5.0L Porsche 928S, bad assed little car that's pretty unique on the road. A new Toyota or even Tesla just doesn't add much in the wow factor for me. A Lambo has been on the mental table, but I'm not sure if I can fit in one for a longer drive. Maybe if bitcoin tops 25k I'll pick one up just for giggles or something. But even then I would prefer a Diabalo as opposed to something new (The LP500S is amazing looking but a total bitch to drive. I tried it, too much work by far). Guess I'm just not at the showing status portion of my life yet. But I can understand the lack of wanting to wrench, I'm just pointing out to my kids that it's a lot cheaper to fix something themselves and spend money on hookers and blow than have a new car and no H+B. :-) C
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No kidding. This stability is boring as fuck.
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To each their own. I value a few extra hours in my life a little bit more than $200 a month. Plus my garage has been full of miners since 2013 and that was not a bad decision at all.
There is, as they say, that. I put my watch repair business on hold for miner repair for a few years, now I'm switching over the desks to clocks again. It's kind of weird.....
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There are some scenarios where it makes sense to borrow for depreciating stuff as well - it becomes a sort of a rental then. A car is one example. There is no way I'd spend $25k of my own money and I really don't wanna drive a $5k clunker because my time has value too. So I "rent" it for $200 a month or so. Will not build any equity in it but I don't care, it's not an investment.
Blah. Used car: Invest in a set of tools and the ability to read and you can get that 25k car for a few K tops. My newest car is a 2002, 2001, 95,87,86,68. Why in the name of heaven would I want a new car?
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That moment of realization that the social contract you believed yourself to be a party to was an illusion all along is not an easy one. Allow me to elaborate by way of an, only very tangentially related, anecdote.
Good one. I had my credit account crossed with someone else in the 80's, one little credit card I got at 18 had me tagged as 25k in welched debt. I couldn't even finish school because I couldn't get credit, and I thought that credit card companies only gave cards to students with jobs. Yes, I know, that fucking hilarious. It wasn't till a few years later when I was buying my first Porsche that a bank told me why I was being declined. Back then you had no right to look at your file, and he pointed it out on the screen. A couple of calls and a letter and the 25k mistake was off my file. And I didn't go a day in my life after that without some sort of fucking card offer. Which I tossed. Yes I had to dump school and live on the street, but I learned how to survive anyway. Never again. Bitcoin won't fuck me like that.
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I hope this is still active.
can anyone suggest an online shop/online link for buying the APW power cables? I want to replace the complete cables and not only the connectors.
thanks.
Ebay is a pretty good place for them. I bought some power cables with molex plugs when I was hooking up some HP power supplies last year and this seller had good stuff: 14-16 gauge is the right type, 1070bh was the seller name. Hope that helps. I'll agree that gold plated is nice, but avoid brass at all costs. Nickel is actually my favorite, Lightfoot recommends: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=732-1939-NDC
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All the controllers since Jupiter should be the same. Have you tried reflashing the code on the beaglebone?
Alterately it may be the BBB that is confused. If you need the code, let me know.
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So I'm thinking instead of a lambo, which let's face it is mostly about how it looks, might get a Tesla instead. The future is obviously electrical, and it's actually a practical car.
Just taking a look at a Fisker today, really nice car. Lambo is still a bit too flat for my body type, then again an original Tesla roadster could work. However at the rate we're going I might have to settle for a second-hand schwinn.
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Nice to see p2pool is still cranking along.
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Charred connectors are at least fixable (I can do that), the problem is overheating chips which causes the stupid boards to die. Replacing the chips is a pain in the rear, but if the connectors are bad it can be fixed with the right tools.
C
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Well, here it is June 2018, and I'm still getting the occasional Titan in for repair. These things don't quit.
They do age though. Three cubes, very nice condition, but I can see that the boards are slightly hogged (bent in the front) and putting the pad under the front of the board will really help the heat sink reconnect. Two of them have burned plugs, and the third has the short on pin 3 (not 4 or 6) which should be fixable by swapping the drivers.
Gives me something to do in between other projects. So yes, I'm still in business...
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Depending on the Monarch you might need a special version of 4.2.0 to make it work. Does it have two power plugs or three?
(why? why do I keep helping on these things? :-)
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Well i finally was able to format a damn micro sd. It did the whole light show and i can log into it via firefox. I plug a asic into it and it sees it but wont hash.... could be because these are Jupiter boards or the asics are toast. Not worth my time really, need to find a ok working Neptune with at least one working die to see if these controllers are good.
I assume you're powering it down before plugging in a cube, right? Is it displaying stuff on the display, and is the green light on the side? C
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My guess is that the cooling systems failed from pure and simple corrosion. A result of the crappy cooler mfgr they used. A side note to this - and owners of PC's using similar self-contained cold-plate/pump/heat exchangers:A while back I came across Intel's performance and design specs for their CPU coolers. One rather surprising thing I learned that that they all have a rather significant coolant loss rate - not from leaks, but from the fluid just slowly passing through the hose walls via osmosis. Up to 1/2 ounce per-year with ~ 0.2.-.3 oz/year as typical.
No, they're full of propolyne glycol and although they run under pressure they don't corrode. What kills them is the insane heat; and if the fan up front ever stops then they will overpressure and blow out the seals. Water cooling is neat, but as we learned with toy trains everything is hell with water.
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No each pump is independant. Try the second one, I haven't seen both fail together very often.
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For a miner, one of the best investments is a little cheap IR temp gun. Point it at the plugs and check the temperature. That can save a lot in burned plugs by allowing you to snug down loose connections and find potentially overloading plugs before they burn.
As they burn up, resistance goes up which makes them even warmer. Positive feedback loop.
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Sure, the pumps just use normal 12v fan plugs. Use an adapter to connect a fan to a 12v power supply and fire them up. You should be able to hear the water running in the radiator if they are working.
Any evidence of water leaking (on the copper plates or bottom metal frame)?
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It's quiet. Been very busy myself as well, and I really don't want to fix Bitmain's junk so things have quieted down at LF Labs. If a miner comes along that has potential to hold value like the Titan did I can always help out.
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