New Official AMT Thread

[Chazaki]

AMT please respond to my refund request.

[opieum2]

I got 2 power supplys 30 amp for each power supply I have enough power for these things .. its just the boards are not working .. I even repaired the back plane thing that burnt . How i repaired it i got one of those tiny cables from a bad mother board and connected it back with black tape . I mean the tiny cables from the circuit board . 3 boards dont work or seem to turn on if theres a way some one has had to kick start these things please share .. I tested each board individually aswell .   Maybe there something we can do to the circuit board to make it work .

Ok so if you test each board one by one they ALL work? or those 3 boards just don't work when tested one by one? I just want to make sure I am understanding you correctly.

Plugging in each board should get you around 200Ghs each. If you are hitting those numbers testing each board then you are ok. IF your issue is with all 5 boards plugged in and 3 don't work then it has something to do with the power supply most likley OR you dont have enough power at the wall (hence 20Amp circuit at your location not the PSU)

Essentially make sure you have the outlet you are pulling from can handle 20A. That means going to the breaker box and checking for that. Normally those are labeled.
For the PSU what are the makes/models of the PSUs. That would be helpful as there might be some documentation on how you might need to connect them. The more info you can give us the better on what you have.

[plp]

I got 2 power supplys 30 amp for each power supply I have enough power for these things .. its just the boards are not working .. I even repaired the back plane thing that burnt . How i repaired it i got one of those tiny cables from a bad mother board and connected it back with black tape . I mean the tiny cables from the circuit board . 3 boards dont work or seem to turn on if theres a way some one has had to kick start these things please share .. I tested each board individually aswell .   Maybe there something we can do to the circuit board to make it work .

Ok so if you test each board one by one they ALL work? or those 3 boards just don't work when tested one by one? I just want to make sure I am understanding you correctly.

Plugging in each board should get you around 200Ghs each. If you are hitting those numbers testing each board then you are ok. IF your issue is with all 5 boards plugged in and 3 don't work then it has something to do with the power supply most likley OR you dont have enough power at the wall (hence 20Amp circuit at your location not the PSU)

Essentially make sure you have the outlet you are pulling from can handle 20A. That means going to the breaker box and checking for that. Normally those are labeled.
For the PSU what are the makes/models of the PSUs. That would be helpful as there might be some documentation on how you might need to connect them. The more info you can give us the better on what you have.

3 boards do no not work tested one by one  . I got 2 30 amp breakers I had a electrician Change it .  .. I took the 3 boards out and analyze them I don't see anything wrong with em maybe there's something I over looked . Or they just do not work . I gotta make some Roi on this 6 grand ugh these people are just a mess Should I just mail these boards back and label it with BAD BOARDS PLEASE RESEND ME OTHER ONES ? Has any one mailed in boards back . But AMT just ignores all my emails .... If by next week they do not respond I am going to small claims court in PA I hate the whole court system as they take forever to get your money back .

Has anyone been to the address where they shipped the Machined from ? the 355 Lancester ave one ?

[opieum2]

I got 2 power supplys 30 amp for each power supply I have enough power for these things .. its just the boards are not working .. I even repaired the back plane thing that burnt . How i repaired it i got one of those tiny cables from a bad mother board and connected it back with black tape . I mean the tiny cables from the circuit board . 3 boards dont work or seem to turn on if theres a way some one has had to kick start these things please share .. I tested each board individually aswell .   Maybe there something we can do to the circuit board to make it work .

Ok so if you test each board one by one they ALL work? or those 3 boards just don't work when tested one by one? I just want to make sure I am understanding you correctly.

Plugging in each board should get you around 200Ghs each. If you are hitting those numbers testing each board then you are ok. IF your issue is with all 5 boards plugged in and 3 don't work then it has something to do with the power supply most likley OR you dont have enough power at the wall (hence 20Amp circuit at your location not the PSU)

Essentially make sure you have the outlet you are pulling from can handle 20A. That means going to the breaker box and checking for that. Normally those are labeled.
For the PSU what are the makes/models of the PSUs. That would be helpful as there might be some documentation on how you might need to connect them. The more info you can give us the better on what you have.

3 boards do no not work tested one by one  . I got 2 30 amp breakers I had a electrician Change it .  .. I took the 3 boards out and analyze them I don't see anything wrong with em maybe there's something I over looked . Or they just do not work . I gotta make some Roi on this 6 grand ugh these people are just a mess Should I just mail these boards back and label it with BAD BOARDS PLEASE RESEND ME OTHER ONES ? Has any one mailed in boards back . But AMT just ignores all my emails .... If by next week they do not respond I am going to small claims court in PA I hate the whole court system as they take forever to get your money back .

Has anyone been to the address where they shipped the Machined from ? the 355 Lancester ave one ?

That is their office address. But I would make sure you get a hold of someone before just sending them back. Make sure you get them to acknowledge the return. But yea clearly you have 3 bad boards if you are testing one by one and are still having this issue. Hopefully you used also a known working connector that worked on one of the other two boards as well? All I can think of at this point to troubleshoot that.

[NotFuzzyWarm]

Looking back through some pics I've saved from the old thread and I see a few things to look out for. The picture of fried chips points to the cause: The two chips that burnt are first in line from the fan but - they are hiding right behind the cage divider. No air flow on them aside from a little turbulence as the air spills over the wall.

Moral - either perforate the hell out of any obstruction to air going where it needs to or move the card or remove the obstruction.

[opieum2]

I found something else worth noting. It might be nothing, but I am not taking chances. On one of my cards (which I am currently working on) I am cleaning off the excess thermal grease. It appears to be the silver compound. Generally speaking I am pretty meticulous about cleaning that stuff off just to avoid the off chance it actually causes a short. Never let it happen mostly because of this http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

It is possible this is causing some of the problems people are seeing. Only one of my cards had this issue with the grease the other ones are fine. I have cleaned it up and will be doing my initial test run tonight and have some pics up in the morning. It will be in a separate thread.

[NotFuzzyWarm]

On immersion cooling with Novec fluids...
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=346134.0
http://www.enterprisetech.com/2013/11/24/3m-allied-control-cool-clusters-novec-bubble-bath/

Awesome...

[FrictionlessCoin]

3 boards do no not work tested one by one  . I got 2 30 amp breakers I had a electrician Change it .  .. I took the 3 boards out and analyze them I don't see anything wrong with em maybe there's something I over looked . Or they just do not work . I gotta make some Roi on this 6 grand ugh these people are just a mess Should I just mail these boards back and label it with BAD BOARDS PLEASE RESEND ME OTHER ONES ? Has any one mailed in boards back . But AMT just ignores all my emails .... If by next week they do not respond I am going to small claims court in PA I hate the whole court system as they take forever to get your money back .

Has anyone been to the address where they shipped the Machined from ? the 355 Lancester ave one ?

None existent technical support.

If AMT can't pay people to answer the phone,  then how can one expect that they pay people to answer the phone and take technical questions?

Standard practice for returns is to ask for an RMA or a return shipping label.  

Honestly,  AMT can't even handle their shipping correctly.   I doubt they can handle returns correctly.

Even worse,  where's the trouble ticketing system?   It's bad enough that they don't handle emails correctly,  but how they hell are they handling all these technical support questions?  

I doubt they understand the enormity of the work they have in front of them.  

If they close shop however without refunds,  then they are guilty of wire fraud and are going to serve jail time.  

For reference:

Warranty: This unit’s system board has a
lifetime warranty from manufacture defect
or component failure.

Honestly, better for AMT to send a refund rather than support a lifetime warranty and the MPP.

[FrictionlessCoin]

Anybody know a good way to remove the coincraft A1 chips from the board?

Maybe this stuff is worth at least the A1 chips on the board? 

Maybe we can get these guys in Virginia:  http://ntekcomputers.com/products/1ths-asic-bitcoin-miner-1000gh  to re-build our systems?

[plp]

I found something else worth noting. It might be nothing, but I am not taking chances. On one of my cards (which I am currently working on) I am cleaning off the excess thermal grease. It appears to be the silver compound. Generally speaking I am pretty meticulous about cleaning that stuff off just to avoid the off chance it actually causes a short. Never let it happen mostly because of this http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

It is possible this is causing some of the problems people are seeing. Only one of my cards had this issue with the grease the other ones are fine. I have cleaned it up and will be doing my initial test run tonight and have some pics up in the morning. It will be in a separate thread.

I am going to try to clean that shit off see if it works i didnt think that would affect it

[NotFuzzyWarm]

Anybody know a good way to remove the coincraft A1 chips from the board?

Maybe this stuff is worth at least the A1 chips on the board?  

Maybe we can get these guys in Virginia:  http://ntekcomputers.com/products/1ths-asic-bitcoin-miner-1000gh  to re-build our systems?

<facepalm> The chips are soldered to the boards. If you have a hot air smt rework station and are good at it, yes they can be removed but not necessarily reused as the pads will need careful cleaning after.

[opieum2]

Alright. I got the miner mostly up and running. Anyone run into the 0ghs issue? All the modules are showing seems like everything is good. (I cleaned all the excess gunk on the one board but other than pretty decent buildwise). How did you guys address the 0Ghs issue if you had that happen? I am working on it now but if I got an answer it would go quicker lol. I imagine its software at this point as the hardware is being read correctly.

[Casiriahmine]

I had that 0 gh/s, however, it was because there wasn't enough power. I tried plugging in the


raspberry pi with my 1200W + 2 modules,

and 1500W = 3 modules on my + the fans.

[opieum2]

I had that 0 gh/s, however, it was because there wasn't enough power. I tried plugging in the


raspberry pi with my 1200W + 2 modules,

and 1500W = 3 modules on my + the fans.

Odd. I got 1600W PSU. Ok least it gives me a starting point to address it. Thanks.

[ISAWHIM]

I found something else worth noting. It might be nothing, but I am not taking chances. On one of my cards (which I am currently working on) I am cleaning off the excess thermal grease. It appears to be the silver compound. Generally speaking I am pretty meticulous about cleaning that stuff off just to avoid the off chance it actually causes a short. Never let it happen mostly because of this http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

It is possible this is causing some of the problems people are seeing. Only one of my cards had this issue with the grease the other ones are fine. I have cleaned it up and will be doing my initial test run tonight and have some pics up in the morning. It will be in a separate thread.

Actually, yes, they are aware of a few issues related to the heat-sink compound reacting with some boards. (The issue is not consistent, which is why they are testing them prior to release.)

As for "Arctic Silver-5"... The "made with 99% pure silver" is misleading. It is not 99% pure silver, that would be foil. Of the 0.025% silver, that 0.01mg silver is 99% pure. Thus, "this paste is non-conductive". If it was 99% silver, it would be more conductive than copper. The 0.01mg of silver is in addition to the other compounds, which totals about 40mg.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/PDF/thermcom/AS5_MSDS_3.pdf

Also note, silver paste is corrosive to the aluminum. Any two metals placed against one another, is a "battery". That is why you don't mix copper and aluminum, or use dissimilar metals in direct contact with one another. (The statue of liberty was a copper shell, bound with iron ribs and rivets. The whole thing had to be rebuilt, because the dissimilar metals corroded 10x faster as the moisture in the air had essentially turned each connection into a mini-battery, which caused the structure to fail.)

"Bad boards", that is actually my job. I am sure I will see your board in the future.

I will be offering some technical advice in the future, as well as, (hopefully), some form of live support.

[ISAWHIM]

Anybody know a good way to remove the coincraft A1 chips from the board?

Maybe this stuff is worth at least the A1 chips on the board?  

Maybe we can get these guys in Virginia:  http://ntekcomputers.com/products/1ths-asic-bitcoin-miner-1000gh  to re-build our systems?

Heat guns can be found as cheap as $20, with spreading and focusing tips.

Here are some SMT tools and more info, if you are looking to expand your collection.
http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/Tools/

If you don't have a good heat-gun, with a temp-control and focusing-tip... There is an alternative way to rework or remove the components. (This is NOT an AMT recommended solution for anything. Use this information at your own risk, and voiding of any form of warranty.)

You can use a hot-plate and focus the heat with an aluminum or copper block. Use an old pot-holder as insulation, to focus the heat where you want it. You can also use a top-side fan, to ensure the stray heat does not loosen other components.
IRON as a hotplate. http://runawaybrainz.blogspot.com/2011/11/surface-mount-devices.html
SKILLET as a hotplate. https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/59
BURNER as a hotplate. http://jimlaurwilliams.org/wordpress/?p=2101

1: Cut a hole in the pot-holder, to fit the block of copper. (Just a tiny bit shy of the actual size, so it holds firmly to the block, as you push it through.)
2: Place the copper block and heat-shielded pot-holder on the hot-plate, and get it "up to temperature". (You can use another pot-holder to contain the heat, like a cover, until the temp is high enough to melt the low-temp SMT solder. I use a junk PCB, which I can just lay on the block. When it turns shiny, it is just about ready.)
3: Brace the board with cardboard, so it will stay as level as possible against the block of copper.
4: Use a piece of electric tape, looped so the sticky-side is outward, hung from a pencil or paper-clip.
5: Tap the tape-wand down onto the chip, while it is heating, to try and "grab" the chip, to lift it off the melted solder. (Do not hold the tape down, just tap it down and pull it up quickly, or it will melt the tape. If the chip is loose-enough, it will stick and lift up off the board. Otherwise it will remain, when you pull up the sticky "grabber".
6: Use copper desoldering braid, to clean-up the excess solder from the chip, (Do that fast, don't linger with that focused heat on the chip.)
7: Clean the tape-gunk with a fresh piece of tape... Tap and pull, tap and pull.
8: Then clean any heat-sink compound off the chip with alcohol.

NOTE: The epoxied heat-sink on the top of the chip should/may loosen with the focused heat. If not, then it would be safe to remain on the chip.

NOTE: This board may not be safe to rework in a reflow-oven. There may be secondary components that my melt, which were added after the reflow process. (Such as the cable connections. Which would have to be removed the old way, with copper braid and a standard temp-controlled solder-gun. Prior to reflow-work in an oven. Never use an oven you cook food in, as the boards will release toxins into the air, which will later contaminate food.) You can quickly remove all parts at once, in a reflow oven, with an insulated fiberglass catch-tray, suspending the board upside-down over it. All the parts will drop-off, except for a few smaller capacitors and resistors. A quick tap should liberate them from the boards.
http://www.freetronics.com/pages/surface-mount-soldering-with-a-toaster-oven#.U1I35PldVK0

[rik_khaos]

I've got the two working boards up an running. I've been sick so after my PTSD class today I just came home and passed out. Didn't get a chance to call AMT.

I'll make that my job for Monday. Try to get in contact and get an RMA for the three non working boards.

I'll ask for that or a refund for 2/3 of the purchase price since I've only got 1/3 of the stated performance. I'd be happier to settle up with them the second way to be honest. That way I don't have to deal with thier bullshit anymore.

I'm just too worn to deal with it right now.

[FrictionlessCoin]

Anybody know a good way to remove the coincraft A1 chips from the board?

Maybe this stuff is worth at least the A1 chips on the board?  

Maybe we can get these guys in Virginia:  http://ntekcomputers.com/products/1ths-asic-bitcoin-miner-1000gh  to re-build our systems?

Heat guns can be found as cheap as $20, with spreading and focusing tips.

Here are some SMT tools and more info, if you are looking to expand your collection.
http://store.curiousinventor.com/guides/Surface_Mount_Soldering/Tools/

If you don't have a good heat-gun, with a temp-control and focusing-tip... There is an alternative way to rework or remove the components. (This is NOT an AMT recommended solution for anything. Use this information at your own risk, and voiding of any form of warranty.)

You can use a hot-plate and focus the heat with an aluminum or copper block. Use an old pot-holder as insulation, to focus the heat where you want it. You can also use a top-side fan, to ensure the stray heat does not loosen other components.
IRON as a hotplate. http://runawaybrainz.blogspot.com/2011/11/surface-mount-devices.html
SKILLET as a hotplate. https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/59
BURNER as a hotplate. http://jimlaurwilliams.org/wordpress/?p=2101

1: Cut a hole in the pot-holder, to fit the block of copper. (Just a tiny bit shy of the actual size, so it holds firmly to the block, as you push it through.)
2: Place the copper block and heat-shielded pot-holder on the hot-plate, and get it "up to temperature". (You can use another pot-holder to contain the heat, like a cover, until the temp is high enough to melt the low-temp SMT solder. I use a junk PCB, which I can just lay on the block. When it turns shiny, it is just about ready.)
3: Brace the board with cardboard, so it will stay as level as possible against the block of copper.
4: Use a piece of electric tape, looped so the sticky-side is outward, hung from a pencil or paper-clip.
5: Tap the tape-wand down onto the chip, while it is heating, to try and "grab" the chip, to lift it off the melted solder. (Do not hold the tape down, just tap it down and pull it up quickly, or it will melt the tape. If the chip is loose-enough, it will stick and lift up off the board. Otherwise it will remain, when you pull up the sticky "grabber".
6: Use copper desoldering braid, to clean-up the excess solder from the chip, (Do that fast, don't linger with that focused heat on the chip.)
7: Clean the tape-gunk with a fresh piece of tape... Tap and pull, tap and pull.
8: Then clean any heat-sink compound off the chip with alcohol.

NOTE: The epoxied heat-sink on the top of the chip should/may loosen with the focused heat. If not, then it would be safe to remain on the chip.

NOTE: This board may not be safe to rework in a reflow-oven. There may be secondary components that my melt, which were added after the reflow process. (Such as the cable connections. Which would have to be removed the old way, with copper braid and a standard temp-controlled solder-gun. Prior to reflow-work in an oven. Never use an oven you cook food in, as the boards will release toxins into the air, which will later contaminate food.) You can quickly remove all parts at once, in a reflow oven, with an insulated fiberglass catch-tray, suspending the board upside-down over it. All the parts will drop-off, except for a few smaller capacitors and resistors. A quick tap should liberate them from the boards.
http://www.freetronics.com/pages/surface-mount-soldering-with-a-toaster-oven#.U1I35PldVK0

I just realized that I have one of those light beam solder units,  maybe useful in selectively removing and replacing bad coincraft A1 chips.

Well that video you have in the link showed how simple it is to to remove a chip.

Can anyone find out the layout of the chips with what is detected in software?  That way we can selectively remove the bad ones?

[FrictionlessCoin]

I've got the two working boards up an running. I've been sick so after my PTSD class today I just came home and passed out. Didn't get a chance to call AMT.

I'll make that my job for Monday. Try to get in contact and get an RMA for the three non working boards.

I'll ask for that or a refund for 2/3 of the purchase price since I've only got 1/3 of the stated performance. I'd be happier to settle up with them the second way to be honest. That way I don't have to deal with thier bullshit anymore.

I'm just too worn to deal with it right now.

Curious,  I've seen two kinds of boards,  one with orange heat sinks and another with blue heat sinks.

Which ones are bad and which ones are good?

[FrictionlessCoin]

"Bad boards", that is actually my job. I am sure I will see your board in the future.

I will be offering some technical advice in the future, as well as, (hopefully), some form of live support.

Interesting.  In lieu of a non-existent AMT technical support staff, can we send our bad boards to you for inspection?

Considering the high number of defective boards experience by customers and the negligence in packing the units,  it is highly likely that AMT did not test units prior to shipment or even worse was malicious and sent bad units knowing that these were not working.

The probability is very high right now that we will all be stuck with these non-working rigs.  Our only recourse to get a working rig is to ping Bitmine.ch for assistance and parts.