Twice now I have bought bare chips to have them built into miners, and both times it has been a disaster with delivery coming way too late to be even close to profitable.
Buying ready-to-go miners is definitely the better way to go.
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hashfast, cointerra, BFL typical American scam artists filled with ego and arrogance.. bombard you with marketing doublespeak, flowery press releases and no update updates. overpromise and under-deliver order of the day.
You forgot bASIC and VMC (and AMT).
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Well the official guide states that OC miners run at 500-525w
My kill-a-watt reports 425W drawn from the wall at 120V by my one ant OC'd to 400MHz (gold PS). I'm using 750W power supplies to power 1.5 ants each (3 blades). No problems so far.
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I assume they are capacitors (forgive my ignorance) but the same one each board is broken and 2 more on each board are loose. 1 and 2 from left to right in the image. Same on both boards...
Uh, without reflowing it's hard to resolder them. That's from my own experience with the boards from Mr. Teal. Maybe it is possible with a preheater and leaded solder paste. Also with unleaded solder paste but then with higher temperatures.... I had this same problem with one of my Technobit Chilis. I wasn't able to reattach it directly to the board. Instead I made two wire extensions using some 26-ga copper from a piece of cat-5 and soldered them to the board. I used 2 irons at once, a 25W and a 30W to get the solder to melt. Then I soldered the cap onto the extensions. It's not pretty but it works. I guess I could have left the black plastic piece out, but I didn't want to lose it so I stuck it in there. I should probably wrap some tape around the cap body so it doesn't short against other things on the board.
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i expect them to be easily overclockable. [...]
its now up to the community to overclock these things as fast as possible.
Maybe not that easy. If it's drawing ~450W through 2 6-pin PCIe connectors, the wires and connectors are probably already near their limit and running hot. There may be solder-on solutions to this problem, assuming the PCB traces and such can handle more current.
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I'm just getting ready for tomorrow to start sending "batch2" of this make... You are included... You will receive mail soon. It is a bit slower since I'm making sure that all phase are working OK and that boards work well under bigger range of conditions. If they are send tomorrow(please answer mail ASAP) US will receive them on 24th.
No email received yet...
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ordered 1 S1s on 1/15/2014, second on 1/18/2014. both arrived today. one has 1 Xed chip. second has 2 Xed chips.
neither is reaching 180. emailed bitmain. waiting for a response.
Most of he time you get xs is when they are not getting enough power So make sure your power supplies are good Just to test try powering the main blade only, that's the one with the small circuit board where the network cable goes in Of you full os, then it's probably a power issue An x doesn't mean the chip is bad I've gotten a lot of xs on various different chips Most times the hashing is steady around 180 Even though a few chips have xs reboots don't fix it, Unplug it from power for 30 seconds and power it up again Also if you cool them too much you get xs Ideally 47-48c is perfect What this guy says. Of my 100+, I have yet to have one with even one bad chip, so 2 in a row with problems makes me think PSU PSU is good. LEPA G1200 Xed chips are on system board. Have you tried the latest firmware? Some earlier firmwares had a bug where they would incorrectly report one or more bad chips. https://github.com/AntMiner/AntGen1/tree/master/firmware
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@MrTeal: Thanks for the sentiment. What might help IMO is a much slower voltage ramp, like waiting 30 seconds in between each 0.1V step, to give the chips time to heat themselves up from the load.
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It took some doing and the use of a heat gun, but I got them going now: cgminer version 3.9.0 - Started: [2000-01-01 00:03:48] -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- (5s):310.2G (avg):301.0Gh/s | A:378754 R:1042 HW:178293 WU:3950.1/m ST: 2 SS: 0 NB: 14 LW: 406294 GF: 0 RF: 1 Connected to stratum-lb-usa48.btcguild.com diff 128 with stratum as user ********** Block: 1fc1044c... Diff:1.79G Started: [01:31:08] Best share: 370K -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [P]ool management [S]ettings [D]isplay options [Q]uit BAL 1: max 29C 0.85V | 22.08G/22.02Gh/s | A:29696 R: 0 HW: 24 WU:308.2/m BAL 2: max 62C 1.16V | 29.05G/28.96Gh/s | A:35840 R:384 HW:155820 WU:382.2/m BAL 3: max 49C 1.04V | 33.70G/33.40Gh/s | A:47488 R: 4 HW: 2786 WU:441.0/m BAL 6: max 52C 1.04V | 32.18G/32.16Gh/s | A:43136 R: 2 HW: 2119 WU:429.7/m BAL 8: max 61C 1.04V | 35.53G/35.34Gh/s | A:41600 R:258 HW: 1516 WU:473.0/m BAL 9: max 49C 1.16V | 23.43G/23.30Gh/s | A:25984 R: 0 HW: 2037 WU:307.1/m BAL 10: max 60C 1.00V | 33.44G/33.27Gh/s | A:38400 R: 0 HW: 2746 WU:434.1/m BAL 11: max 49C 1.02V | 34.44G/34.09Gh/s | A:43264 R:256 HW: 4649 WU:427.2/m BAL 14: max 54C 1.03V | 32.67G/32.42Gh/s | A:39168 R:128 HW: 2717 WU:422.8/m BAL 18: max 53C 1.06V | 33.48G/33.43Gh/s | A:33280 R: 0 HW: 3901 WU:418.5/m
For some reason the first one shown never raises its voltage. There was another one that had some pnp errors where a couple of the 0402 caps (C80 and C69) came standing on their ends, only affixed to one solder pad. I left them on-end and installed some wire bridges to connect them to their other pads. There's another one that won't always start up. Sometimes when I connect the power the one LED just flashes forever, and it never starts flashing the second LED. I have to keep cycling it until it starts. So they're kinda ornery, but for now at least they're all running. These are the ones from Technobit. I'm expecting another 12 from Lucko soon. I'll see how they do.
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I'm also curious about the coupons. I just now created an account on the site and ordered an ant.
I had ordered 5 ants previously in Sushi's GBs. I'd love it if some coupons were to show up in my account.
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The less annoying and higher performance method (the backplate is in the better orientation) is to use some 6-32x2" screws to hold it in place though.
Hm, I don't seem to have any #6-32s on hand. I guess it'll be another day until I'm up and hashing. Thanks.
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I just received some Chilis yesterday from our TechnoBit friends across the pond, and today received the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo coolers for them.
Do you guys have any tips on attaching the coolers? The included hardware doesn't seem to quite fit right. I started by attaching the back-plate to the back side of the board, using the included tall stand-offs and nuts, but when I then try to secure the cooler to the top side using the included scissors-style "X" clip, there is still a gap left between the cooler and the chip surfaces after the screws have been threaded all the way into the standoffs.
The short stand-offs don't looks like they are made to pass through the boards. If I try to use them, there is not enough thread on the back side to attach the nuts with the back plate still in place.
How did you guys do it?
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Yes, please do this. I also favor separate subforums for each type.
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With chips already at 28nm/20nm, there's not much room left for gains by reducing the feature size. Future gains in efficiency will have to come from elsewhere.
I understand that the 55nm BitFury chips are already more efficient than the 28nm KnC chips. I'm definitely curious to see what BitFury comes up with for their next generation chips.
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I'd be interested in a larger version that uses more chips.
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No 0.99.2-E-tune? No built-in bertmod? No unified release to support both module types, and mixed module types in the same system? No OC in the web UI? No licorice dispenser? :waah:
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Hey sushi, would it be possible for me to buy a spare S1 control board? I have one Ant that crashes sometimes, and today I had trouble getting it to start up again. The control board LED would just do the slow blink forever like when it's first booting. Thankfully I got it to start up now through luck or something.
I'm pretty sure the control board is the problem. Could I buy a spare one? I don't want to RMA the one I have because it's working for now and I don't want the downtime.
Let me know please. Thanks.
Edit: Seems I spoke too soon. It crashed again now after running for only a couple minutes.
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Any chance of lowered prices soon? Those BTMine Avalon2 clones at 240GH (OC) for 2.4 BTC are too competitive.
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I almost bought some, but then I remembered that I chose never to support Avalon/BitSyncom ever again due to Yifu's betrayal of Bitcoin. Even if indirectly by buying miners that use their chips.
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Just stumbled on the video last night.
More exposure is good, but they seem to be going a bit too far and including misrepresentations and half-truths.
One in particular that made me LOL was where they said that Bitcoin uses "quantum cryptography".
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