[ANN] Bitfury ASIC sales in EU and Europe

[intron]

1. This is not a how-to repair, I have no idea what Im doing, running on pure can-do spirit here.
2. Yes I know I fucked up and I do feel like a retard, thank you for not pointing out the obvious.

<SNIP>

The question that now haunts me is how unsafe is it to keep running this board ?

If it runs and nothing gets hotter then normal, you should be ok.
Next time take a paint stripper to remove a damaged chip:)

Nice job though...

intron

[Trupik]

LOL, this is why I like Russian design - it can survive nearly anything. 

[Spathi]

1. This is not a how-to repair, I have no idea what Im doing, running on pure can-do spirit here.
2. Yes I know I fucked up and I do feel like a retard, thank you for not pointing out the obvious.

.... bad things....
 I had plugged the board in the wron way around. Me.. the person who made the f-ing how to plug them in picture with the instructions clearly stating to double check that the components are facing the Pi.

Oh god, that is the worst bit.

.... more bad things....
14 chips on the damaged board show up and hash. likeaboss.jpg

Nice job. I think there shouldnt really be an issue running the board. I know I saw earlier in this thread there was someone who "modified" the board to disconnect a bad chip and ran it without problems.

[cscape]

Next time take a paint stripper to remove a damaged chip:)

If anybody decides to use a paint stripper, first cover the undamaged area around the chip with some aluminium foil to protect it from the heat. First start out slow, so the board has a chance to heat up, and then increase the heat to take it off quickly.

[-Redacted-]

Paint stripper is just a heat gun - so you're just doing some hot aire rework.
  
Personally I kind of like the current suggestion of using a belt sander / power grinder to remove a bad chip - it's, umm, unique...  

[Cablez]

Good idea for the clarification Redacted.  At first read I was like why are they using turpentine on a pcb, then I was like .......ooh.  

[-Redacted-]

Yeah, me too.  I was thinking - how is someone thinking turpentine will dissolve solder? Oh wait...  THAT kind of paint stripper...

[intron]

Yeah, me too.  I was thinking - how is someone thinking turpentine will dissolve solder? Oh wait...  THAT kind of paint stripper...

... lost in translation ... 

[itod]

LOL, this is why I like Russian design - it can survive nearly anything. 

Reminded me of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-34

Most innovative electronic repair ever, congratulations!

[jlsminingcorp]

Hi guys, could I get a quick sanity check from you. We were planning to use an old 520W PSU to power our bitfury hardware, but when I dug this out of a cupboard the other day I found that it has 3 x 18A 12V rails rather than the single rail that would be ideal.

We've currently got a starter kit + 5 H-boards (~ 150W) on order along with one bitfury burner (<100W) and planned the following:

m-board + h-boards --> 2 x PCIe power connectors (should be one 12V rail)
bitfury burner --> break out the main 12V rail from the ATX power connector (possibly using one of these http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/ATX_Breakout_Board) or a molex to PCIe adaptor.

Does that sound vaguely sensible or am I making a big mistake somewhere along the line? Obviously if we add more H-boards in the future we'll need to upgrade to a PSU with a higher current 12V GPU rail, but for the moment this would seem to offer a solution right?

[Micky25]

glad you made it Isokivi 

[Cablez]

Hi guys, could I get a quick sanity check from you. We were planning to use an old 520W PSU to power our bitfury hardware, but when I dug this out of a cupboard the other day I found that it has 3 x 18A 12V rails rather than the single rail that would be ideal.

We've currently got a starter kit + 5 H-boards (~ 150W) on order along with one bitfury burner (<100W) and planned the following:

m-board + h-boards --> 2 x PCIe power connectors (should be one 12V rail)
bitfury burner --> break out the main 12V rail from the ATX power connector (possibly using one of these http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/ATX_Breakout_Board) or a molex to PCIe adaptor.

Does that sound vaguely sensible or am I making a big mistake somewhere along the line? Obviously if we add more H-boards in the future we'll need to upgrade to a PSU with a higher current 12V GPU rail, but for the moment this would seem to offer a solution right?

http://s18.postimg.org/62hp9gn89/psu.jpg

Here is a decent writeup of the PSU that includes how the +12V rails break out.  http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=18

Looks more like 2 rail PSU than 3 as the 12V2 and 12V3 rails aren't really separate and the 12V1 rail takes care of the cpu and mobo power.

[yurtesen]

Isokivi, what kind of heatsinks did you use?

Next time take a paint stripper to remove a damaged chip:)

If anybody decides to use a paint stripper, first cover the undamaged area around the chip with some aluminium foil to protect it from the heat. First start out slow, so the board has a chance to heat up, and then increase the heat to take it off quickly.

Actually paint stripper is quite safe considering how rudimentary it is. I once managed to change a laptop gpu (yes one of those dreaded large nvidia mcp chips) and using hot air gun and laptop still works, but unfortunately some connections are not perfect I think and once in a while it draws strange stuff to the screen :p

[darkfriend77]

Looks nice ... is this usable for ... us ?

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Coвмecтимo c https://github.com/needbmw/bfgminer/



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[jlsminingcorp]

Hi guys, could I get a quick sanity check from you. We were planning to use an old 520W PSU to power our bitfury hardware, but when I dug this out of a cupboard the other day I found that it has 3 x 18A 12V rails rather than the single rail that would be ideal.

We've currently got a starter kit + 5 H-boards (~ 150W) on order along with one bitfury burner (<100W) and planned the following:

m-board + h-boards --> 2 x PCIe power connectors (should be one 12V rail)
bitfury burner --> break out the main 12V rail from the ATX power connector (possibly using one of these http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/ATX_Breakout_Board) or a molex to PCIe adaptor.

Does that sound vaguely sensible or am I making a big mistake somewhere along the line? Obviously if we add more H-boards in the future we'll need to upgrade to a PSU with a higher current 12V GPU rail, but for the moment this would seem to offer a solution right?

http://s18.postimg.org/62hp9gn89/psu.jpg

Here is a decent writeup of the PSU that includes how the +12V rails break out.  http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=18

Looks more like 2 rail PSU than 3 as the 12V2 and 12V3 rails aren't really separate and the 12V1 rail takes care of the cpu and mobo power.

Fabulous link, thanks. So it looks like I have a bit more headroom on the PCIe rail(s) than I thought, which is great, and the 20+4 pin ATX is probably a separate rail that looks like it should be fine for the bitburner fury . Just need the hardware now!!

[xstr8guy]

Hi guys, could I get a quick sanity check from you. We were planning to use an old 520W PSU to power our bitfury hardware, but when I dug this out of a cupboard the other day I found that it has 3 x 18A 12V rails rather than the single rail that would be ideal.

We've currently got a starter kit + 5 H-boards (~ 150W) on order along with one bitfury burner (<100W) and planned the following:

m-board + h-boards --> 2 x PCIe power connectors (should be one 12V rail)
bitfury burner --> break out the main 12V rail from the ATX power connector (possibly using one of these http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/ATX_Breakout_Board) or a molex to PCIe adaptor.

Does that sound vaguely sensible or am I making a big mistake somewhere along the line? Obviously if we add more H-boards in the future we'll need to upgrade to a PSU with a higher current 12V GPU rail, but for the moment this would seem to offer a solution right?

http://s18.postimg.org/62hp9gn89/psu.jpg

Here is a decent writeup of the PSU that includes how the +12V rails break out.  http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=18

Looks more like 2 rail PSU than 3 as the 12V2 and 12V3 rails aren't really separate and the 12V1 rail takes care of the cpu and mobo power.

Fabulous link, thanks. So it looks like I have a bit more headroom on the PCIe rail(s) than I thought, which is great, and the 20+4 pin ATX is probably a separate rail that looks like it should be fine for the bitburner fury . Just need the hardware now!!

Why not just go get yourself a nice single rail gold or platinum PSU?  Why monkey around with something suboptimal when you'll be hooking it up to something so expensive and sensitive?

[jlsminingcorp]

Why not just go get yourself a nice single rail gold or platinum PSU?  Why monkey around with something suboptimal when you'll be hooking it up to something so expensive and sensitive?

Well, you're right, it would be a bit more convenient to just buy a PSU with enough PCIe connectors and a big 12V rail, but where would be the fun in that ?

Seriously though, I don't want to go for a suboptimal solution, which is why I was looking for advice. I guess I'm wondering if there is really anything suboptimal about using the solution proposed above i.e. is there a problem with using a dual-rail PSU and using each 12V rail to drive a different bit of kit? The voltages on the corsair are pretty stable and efficiency is 80+ %. Maybe I'm being cynical, but the gold and platinum efficiencies seem like a bit of a marketing ploy - you probably end up spending more on a more efficient PSU than you save in power costs (certainly for the lower power PSUs).

[xstr8guy]

Why not just go get yourself a nice single rail gold or platinum PSU?  Why monkey around with something suboptimal when you'll be hooking it up to something so expensive and sensitive?

Well, you're right, it would be a bit more convenient to just buy a PSU with enough PCIe connectors and a big 12V rail, but where would be the fun in that ?

Seriously though, I don't want to go for a suboptimal solution, which is why I was looking for advice. I guess I'm wondering if there is really anything suboptimal about using the solution proposed above i.e. is there a problem with using a dual-rail PSU and using each 12V rail to drive a different bit of kit? The voltages on the corsair are pretty stable and efficiency is 80+ %. Maybe I'm being cynical, but the gold and platinum efficiencies seem like a bit of a marketing ploy - you probably end up spending more on a more efficient PSU than you save in power costs (certainly for the lower power PSUs).

Lol, for me the fun is getting a brand-spankin' new PSU!  We are obviously of different mindsets... I'm the shopper and you're the tinkerer.  And I'm happy hashing away at stock speeds and you'll probably break out the HB pencil the minute you open the box.   

[jlsminingcorp]

Lol, for me the fun is getting a brand-spankin' new PSU!  We are obviously of different mindsets... I'm the shopper and you're the tinkerer.  And I'm happy hashing away at stock speeds and you'll probably break out the HB pencil the minute you open the box.   

I am tempted, although I'm a bit nervous of that particular trick. Seems to be working well for the others though. You've got me looking at new PSUs now - see I do like shiny new things too .

[xstr8guy]

Lol, for me the fun is getting a brand-spankin' new PSU!  We are obviously of different mindsets... I'm the shopper and you're the tinkerer.  And I'm happy hashing away at stock speeds and you'll probably break out the HB pencil the minute you open the box.   

I am tempted, although I'm a bit nervous of that particular trick. Seems to be working well for the others though. You've got me looking at new PSUs now - see I do like shiny new things too .

I have 4 AX Corsairs.  Love 'em!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050001459%2040000058%20600112163&IsNodeId=1&name=80%20PLUS%20PLATINUM%20Certified