looks like that, some of the stuff on the PCB don't look that good, some of it does as for the high end parts the S5 to me was a fast buck for them and roughed compared to the S3 or even S7 from what a S7 looks like.

my S3 are work hoers the S5 at times I'm afraid to reboot it or turn it off to long for fear it may stop . that's how cheap the feeling is get form S5 but so far the three i have left keep going i had five at one time .
and they all  have done ROI a friends ask me one day was it worth it doing this i said yea then it got me thinking was it really then i looked at when i bought them etc it had done a ROI for me by then , i don't mine to get a ROI  either  " .

My S3 i have no such fear of . even the ones i upgraded

really, i have one or two S5 with double holes in the boards i bought direct form bitmain 18 pin, i can take pic if you want and the two 16 pin boards i sent to sidehack had double holes .
16 pin boards were batch 1 mostly i think .

I only offered that option of reflowing because no one else did or was offering any idea if you had got a lot more help i don't think i would have ever said a thing . .

question does the lite on  the board lite at all , it going  to keep showing all zero with one controller it still sees it but for some reason a power or some thing like it on the board won't work or let it connect which can be a bad solider or it needs to be remelted etc which is why  reflowing might work or it can just be gone,the chips may be ok just the power line part is bad, i don't even know how to fix that unless you know some one like he said with the right gear and time . reflowing is all ways a last resort and cost nothing and might even work . I sent two S5 boards to some one after I reflowed them he told he got one working so far , so reflowing it won't shouldn't hurt the chips unless you leave it in there to long and i did it as a last resort.

Yea he right they should all be sliver with springs on all of them. The screw hole look ok . just some screws don't .just looked at my S5 that came direct from bitmain it has the same holes with all silver screws with springs on every screw.

ID pay either way + plus donate parts .

so 50 bucks sound fair to me   .


I have a S1 board I'll send i didn't think you want, I want  nothing in return expect keep it up for US . .

ty just bought it

or i also use this


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPJQOO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00



as long as your very care full putting it on A S5 it works great .  but that about any thing be care full with it all ) .



notlist3d ive used that to it seems to work about the same as any good paste .



or use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009B0K2I?keywords=heat%20sink%20pads&qid=1444251564&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2


heat sink pads ive been temped to try key word there is try but get the right ones like the tubes and the old gblack grindseeds use.

for paste one of these is more then enough and put on each chip on the heat sink side   .


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00



I have tried it with a lot and with a very small drop per chip either way seems to cool about the same with a lot or or with out a lot . these thing are not real PC in the sense the CPU needs just enough paste to make sure it contacts to heat sink  with no space more on a real PC can be bad for the CPU  .   .same kind of here but less or more won't mater as much from win i tested it .The kind of paste will and Arctic Silver paste is the best you can get for anything it  seems i do know there is better but off hand can't renumber what brand that's how good it is.

That's max sorry 5 to 10 mins is best but try not to go over 15 per try  mybad .if one try doesn't work try again maybe i should have said and increases the time each time and keep a eye on it while it cooks .one try might not work but it's safe to plug into the controller and power after one try with no paste just feel board if it stats getting hot it worked i wouldn't wait for any lites to come on with no cooling unless you can time it right .

you can i guess look it up im being safe i read some place some had to and it worked to with heat sinks on .or ask i sidehack in a PM  i forgot hes good for that kind of advice , but he may tell you  don't can't say or give better advice .

don't forget thu this is a resort thing it may not work and may work when done right .



 if it works, your S5, is back to life if it doesn't you gave it a good one . .


try not exceed 15 mins at 350 or lower , leave it in the oven after it's done  with the door open, let it air cool .above all PREHEAT THE OVEN FIRST DON"T MAKE MY MISTAKE AND HAVE STUFF MELT by sticking it in the oven while it preheats it's not a real reflow oven were you can do that.

take that off, clean it up good to be safe, i never tried with paste on it made sense to me not to . there is other stuff you can on it  that might help like flux etc but no paste .yea repaste it all ways.

take off any thing you can remove first. labels any lose thing that comes off don't force off anything you normally wouldn't take off.   and only do this as a last resort as all the guides on the web tell you what have you got lose it wont make it any worse it's not working to start with .

I did it with one antminer S5 blade and it worked and got it off some one else on the forums that posted a how to with a heat gun  . it wont melt as long you don't over 400 or leave in the oven past 10 mins i think it is or use tin foil on the parts you don't want to much heat on or use some kind of heat tape on those parts i forget what it's called. but you don't want to stick it in while it is preheating bad idea trust me on that one I learned the hard way things will melt preheat it first. btw that's how most boards are mass soldiered in a reflow oven pretty much the same way .

you can do it in your oven i wouldn't because of what might comes off the board and can mix in food . I know a few have and said they clean it out good , im just being safe . there are guides all over the webb  for doing it  they all say about the same thing, or you can use a heat gun but be care full using one of those it takes some skill to balance the heat with a heat gun which does the same thing .



type in some thing like re baking my amd card , cooking  my video card or using a Reflow oven there is actually some really nice guides that take you thu a a step step process for  making your own oven. that can cost any were form 100 to a 1000 or more if you  bought off a company .

I'll give you 60 for one keep the wireless it's not that great or even worse it .



60 for the carbon scoring one  + i send my shipping bill  ? .

if starting out


for sha 256 aka bitcoins and a few others imo  if you do alt coins stick with the script type . the sha 256 type don't pay to well right now unless you mine some of them as you mine BTC

S3

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Shipping-Bitmain-Antminer-S3-Bitcoin-ASIC-453-GH-s-bit-coin-miner-S5-S7-/311459730189?hash=item488472530d
 
S5


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bitmain-Antminer-S5-Asic-Bitcoin-Miner-SHA256-1155-GH-BRAND-NEW-/272008627254?hash=item3f54fa4436

shop around for prices these are examples to give some idea what to look for

script coins there are few. i list the top two highend ones and then one or two at 200 or so

This one has really dropped in price so some thing is coming soon or ltc  type coins are becoming worth less fast  

this the best most stable type Scipt miner you can buy  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/A2-Terminator-110-Mh-s-scrypt-litecoin-miner-/262067839213?hash=item3d0475e0ed

the next one and it costs the most  to me is not worth the cost  because OF KNC's   lame way of ripping others off  


http://www.ebay.com/itm/KNC-Titan-Scrypt-Miner-300-MH-S-2-of-7-/151840079560?hash=item235a5fbec8


Those are just examples so youn have some idea of what to look for.

at the low end cost


grindseeds to me are the best ones for there cost , zeus might be next but are not that great you have watch which ones you buy for zeus miner

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gridseed-G-Black-23-26-MH-Scrypt-Coin-Miner-Built-In-Raspberry-PI-And-PSU-LTC-/301753134546?hash=item4641e36dd2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZeusMiner-Thunder-X6-Low-Power-Scrypt-Asic-20MH-s-Litecoin-Miner-/301759900899?hash=item46424aace3


for zeus miner unless you have cheap Electricity even then i wouldn't buy any X3  ,I would only buy the ones marked as  X6  , X3 and lower are power hugs.

be very care with someone saying they have GEN 3 Zeus miner for sell unless they can prove they have them they were never made, GEN 3 as far i know were not X3's . and Zeus went bad about then and started ripping off customers to bad to they had a good product at The time that could have been another bitmain for Script miners. i can't prove but i feel and until im proved wrong Zeus some how ripped off  bitmain kind of why bit main got out of Scpit miners all to gather . anyone can tell me diff but I won't believe it . if A2 and titan still sell good   . and they do .


check here for nice deals

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?board=75.0

in one of your Picture not shown here  i saw a USB thingie with digital numbers on it what was that i want one.

I would hope he looks that up first to if hes gonna try it and not do it in a oven he cooks his food in . go buy a cheap toaster oven.


here is more on it

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering

you all most do the same thing making a PCB board .it called Reflow Soldering, had to find out what it is called .


how to


http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/


It can work and did for me on one of my S5 some time ago but that S5 has sense gone up because i did some really stupid stuff to it that made the hash boards beyond repair other then having it thorn a part and fixed that way .


Preheat the oven first that's a must DO, don't do what i did, stick it in while it preheated .

There is something you  can try but may need a oven and bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins then let it set with the door open  till it cools off  that worked for one of my S5 that was reporting the same thing . it's worth a try if it's not working now, other wise it may have gone bad . There was a post in German  once that explained what it may be with one of the little grays things near the PCIE plug that may need to be placed,