I have a question that hopefully someone will be able to answer.
I'm trying to run my 60 and 88mh units using a server power supply. I cut the ATX harness off of a dead PSU, and connected all of the 12v 5v and 3.3v wires on the harness to the appropriate server PSU outputs. I thought for sure that would be all that's needed, but the controller doesn't work. Any idea what I'm missing?
What server PSU are you attempting to use? How much of it does not work, any , some lights or just dead? have you checked to see if there is output on the lines? The PSU is a PFE1100. It's breakout board outputs 12v and 5v, and I'm using a buck converter to make 3.3v from the 12v output. |
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How can I check how much watt my second PSU has ?
And yep I know the ''sad'' story about the S4. Thats why I'm hesitating to push it more or whatsoever.
It's specifications are 1400w gold, which means pulling ~1555w measured at the wall when maxed out. I don't suggest pullsing more than 1300w DC from them if you want any sort of reliability. That would be approximately 1444w at the wall. And if your wondering on watt's.... be careful on using a kill-a-watt on these. One early mistake I did when getting mine was using a kill-a-watt... it was not pretty it now instead of white has a brown mark between prongs. It's not made for this kinda watt's. But guess I was lucky to catch it and no real damage done. Just was a little scare. That's weird, I've used my kill a Watt on 2000+ Watt loads on 240v,and maxed out on 120v plenty of times. Never any issues. They're rated for 15A 125V. (yes it works on 240v) |
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 Bring it |
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How can I check how much watt my second PSU has ?
And yep I know the ''sad'' story about the S4. Thats why I'm hesitating to push it more or whatsoever.
It's specifications are 1400w gold, which means pulling ~1555w measured at the wall when maxed out. I don't suggest pullsing more than 1300w DC from them if you want any sort of reliability. That would be approximately 1444w at the wall. |
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I'd say you were lucky.  I had 7 of them, 5 failed. I decided to pull the remaining 2 before they followed suit and replaced them with real power supplies. |
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I'm pretty sure it would be easier to tally how many are still working instead fo how many have died. Doubt there's more than 30%* still functional.
*Figure is, of course, pulled out of my ass
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Thanks for the detailed and educational post on the meters, I had no idea. I used the same meter, though, to read the change from 227v to 240v. Also, my 227v reading went back up to 240v if I removed the load. The sag was caused by the power load and heat from summer. Winter temps are definitely helping right now.
No utility sets a transformer for 220v, they're all set to 240v. If by voltage coming into the neighbourhood you mean the top most wire bare (or 3 wires if 3 phase is available in your area) it's neither 240v nor 480v. In fact, quite far from it. Those lines run at 12200v or 14400v generally, and are transformed to 240v before they enter your property. When you read 208v on 3 phase, that's quite normal. 3 phase systems in the low volt range are 120v/208v, not 220v or 240v.
Oh, don't forget that your 1210w figure depends on a PSU with 93% efficiency. 2880w are no where near 93% efficient according to the tests I did. (measured DC output vs AC input) Not a good way to calculate your voltage.
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j4bber, contact me with the price they quoted you. I'll see if I can do better.
The ultra kaze fans are perfect for these 4kW setups, I've used them in the past without issues.
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Yep, a proper PSU could definately unleash them. I used DPS-2000BB PSUs with mine when I had them, ran them at about 2.5TH/s each.
Only reduce if you don't care about the PSU dying.
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Oups, 218.75**** 425 is my S5
And like I said, no, it's not the stock PSU, it's the one they changed. I opened my S4 and noticed it was the new, but I dont find how much Watt and Frequency I can use.
Doesn't matter if you're on the 10th replacement (Which would be possible with S4 PSUs lol) it's still the stock PSU. It's complete garbage, and will eventually fail. I'd stick to no more than 212 if on 120v, or 218 if on 240v. |
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The solution is quite simple Everybody has own good reason to mine in CHINESE pools. So just fuck them and stop mining there. If you do believe they are destroying Bitcoin there is no such Good reason to justify YOUR OWN will to mine there. But unfortunately it is not the case... .... Ps: if any one speaks CHINESE please translate it  I'm curious how many people and hash power outside of China mine in Chinese pools. Even more curious as to the reasons why they do this. (If a majority of mining were in Antarctica I would be asking a different question.) A surprising amount. I've even seen quite a few respected members on bitcointalk say they're mining on f2pool/antpool. Pretty sad when you've got great alternatives like this pool. |
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Bitmain has been down a long time. I hope the Chinese government hasn't shut them down. Anybody heard any news about why they're down?
Perhaps they are about to release S9 with the Full Custom 14nm 0.1J/GH BM1386 ASIC ? Rich Yes, s9 at .08j doing 8th and selling for 4btc. You think the diff is crazy now, 2000PH by April. Heh, that would indeed be crazy. |
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I assume that's a typo and you meant 225MHz. With the stock bitmain PSU, no, you can't go further. In fact I'd suggest not going past 218MHz with stock, or even 212.
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He said he needed the miner to be quiet despite the heat.
Guess keeping it around is less important.
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Here is some Overvolting - overclocking of my S7 Batch 1 with DPS-2000BB and J4bberwock breakout board.
Getting ~ 5660Gh/s, Voltage is 12.75 V under full load.
Power consumption at the wall is 1590Watt => 0.28J/Gh efficiency
I know it runs hot, but I need the silence.
<image clipped>
Those are great numbers across the board. I am curious, what happens with your hardware error rate if you overclock but don't overvolt? Hw errors go up and you can't reach those kinds of speeds. |
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I stayed up to read the NEC till 6:30am this morning. I slept until 2:30pm. It is 3:30pm now. I do not see it written like what prelude provided regarding the "feeder to the breaker.' However, I do see many references of "...marked 100%." So, I must conclude 80% is the rule for all Main breakers and other breakers installed in the Main Panel or Sub Panels unless otherwise stated on the breaker that is listed. Now, I'm going to have to determine [After talking to electrician] if it will be cheaper to have a 700 amp service provided by the power company and installed by the electrician to get what I want [OR] get a 600 amp service with special breakers "marked 100%" in special panels. I'm not sure which will be cheaper but I will find out and pass that information along in the forum. Thanks for getting me to investigate this more, Prelude. Now, back to more reading of the NEC 2015. David wouldn't it be easier to tell your electrician your expected load and let him size it. save you the trouble of all the research. it is after all what they do for a living. I don't have an electrician I'm "buddies" with. How am I to know if they aren't wanting to choose the route that makes them more money instead of going the route that saves me money? I'm sure many electricians who over charge customers who are "ignorant" probably say, "Ignorance is bliss." Sure, I'm going to tell them the load I need but also let them know I want to see prices on the hardware for both scenarios I mentioned to see which is the cheapest route. Cool, keep us updated. Maybe start a thread about it? I'm sure a lot of us would like to see your project evolve. I'm the same way, I don't rely on others unless I know I can trust them. I'd investigate everything before contacting the electrician also. |
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That's what I'm talking about! I just finished my chicken sandwich about 5 minutes before the block!
I want you to eat a chicken sandwich every 6 hours from now on. Plan accordingly.  |
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You might be surprised, breakers get real expensive real fast. I was holding an 4000$ 800A industrial breaker a few days ago. Don't forget that the 100% rated breaker isn't the only requirement, you need a (much?) bigger panel than normally to allow better air cooling, and I believe 90c rated wire but using 75c rated ampacity on it for heatsinking purposes.
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