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I'd buy if you accepted escrow. No escrow with BTC sales = no buy.
Good luck, and PM me if you decide to accept escrow for our mutual protection.
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That's right, I got confused. Superflower is the OEM, ie the company that builds the PSUs and sells them to EVGA. Leadex is their current high end platform upon which the G2s are built. They go up to a massive 2000w ATX in Europe due to their having 240v standard, and the platform is limited to 1600w in NA because of our lower 120v.
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Hi Guys - I need help on upgrading FW on the S7s to the latest ones.
The Bitmain support page lists a number of FW for different S7 batches and I need 2nd pair of eyes to double check which FW goes to which S7.
My current list as follows:
1. 4.73TH/v.1.32 (700Mhz) - Batch 8
2. 4.46TH/v.2.0 (600Mhz) - Batch ?
3. 4.66TH/v.1.7 (600Mhz) - Batch ?
4. 4.66TH/v.1.7 (600Mhz) - Batch ?
5. 4.73TH/v1.31 (700Mhz) - Batch 8
Appreciate any help.
Regards
TMT
I second the opinion ^^^^: why upgrade? It's fine w/o. Yes, I kind off agree with that rationale however during failover situation with kano site this week, some of the S7s will continue beeping even when kano is up again. The users with Dec FW applied didnt seems to be affected by this. And that is why, it's probably best to get things up to date before New Year. That's far from a scientific conclusion, but the risk is yours to take. |
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Slight correction to your instructions...
Controller must be powered on last when using multiple PSUs, so in your example you'd turn the 1000w PSU on first and then the 750w PSU last.
Edit: It should also be noted that these are from a new lineup that seems to have moved away from the amazing Leadex OEM platform that we all know and love. Until more details are out there (particularly, a jonnyguru review showing the innards and who the OEM is) I'd stick with the known quality of the Leadex based G2 series.
i will alter that. But as for buying these over the well know leadex super stud 1300 g2 the 1300 g2 will not run the s-7's that are pulling more then 1400 watts. Ie batch 8. So you would need to get a 1600 g2 1600 p2 1600 t2 All of them are more then 300 usd. The 1600 g2 which I have owned and tested the 1600 p2 which I still own and the 1600 t2 which I have owned are all good psu. as I understand the batch 8 the 1300 g2 at 179.99 - 20 rebate = 159.99 no longer can do the job http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438011&cm_re=evga_1300_g2-_-17-438-011-_-Productthus the 1600 g2 1600 p2 1600 t2 are all really expensive The 1600w version would be better efficiency wise, but the 1300w units would work just fine with the 135 chip 700MHz. B8 pulls approximately 1237.6w DC from the PSU, so while it's close to the rated 1300w it's not a problem, especially considering EVGA covers these for 7 years under warranty. These GQ are only 5 years. Phil found such a good deal on PSU's the difference in savings vs efficiency savings make it where his is better I think. It's what 150ish or so less then 1600 G2? Somewhere around there. If you really want efficiency 220/240 server psu is way to go. But that is not a option for all miners. It's a fantastic deal, no doubt better than getting 1 1600w G2. I did some digging, these GQ units are built by FSP instead of leadex and are of a lesser but still good quality than G2 units. There are reviews for the 650w and 850w units up on jonnyguru. |
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Prelude, https://chain.so/address/DOGE/DQN1QGefZTzrSFLPe66ediW4UXhKbernqZIs the above address your? If yes coins are moved somwhere already... I have recently changed pool doge generation address (pool restarted today) and I found out that more than 100 confirms are required for coins to mature. What I am trying to say is that I blindley followed BTC rules but they are different for doge. I am too tired right now to check doge code to find out how many blocks are required. Any way I will dig it ASAP and And I will fix pool block stats That is indeed my DOGE address at poloniex. Are you saying the coins aren't lost, and that I'll eventually get them? Would be cool if so, but no biggie if not.  Wallet is almost finished syncing, I'll continue mining to it instead. I'm enjoying the pool so far, loshia. Much better than nicehash solo which is what I was using previously when I felt like having some solo fun. To Use your wallet for sure is a better idea. And a friendly advise when you sync it never ever upgrade your Dogecoin. I upgraded pool client once and suddenly lost 100000 coins  then I lost the rest 100000 or so by mistake. But this is not end of the world. The important part is to have fun and learn from our mistakes. Please change your LTC address also if you can. I was playing with pool code and found an issue with reconnect. What I am trying to say is there is slight chance if you use your old LTC address your new doge address to be silently ignored due to pool specific code. Another option is to post here so I can do pool restart. I am deploying new server and that bug is fixed there. And finaly if you happen to find coins to your old doge address because of the pool I will refund them count on that  https://litecointalk.org/index.php?topic=27392.msg294614#msg294614Thank you for the information, loshia. I'd like to continue using the same LTC address if possible? (LULUoYgf1B1DXH769aFNaY7KpHVH2hH1Xj) If you think it will cause a problem, though, I'll change it. |
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Yeah... Thread title needs to be updated. S7 is no longer 4.86TH/s or 0.25J/GH. Should read: ANTMINER S7 is available at bitmaintech.com with 4.73TH/s, 0.30J/GHSince bitcointalk is not accessible from mainland China due to the GFW, could a mod update the title? I'm sure bitmain would in the pursuit of honesty, but they simply can't due to circumstances. |
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Slight correction to your instructions...
Controller must be powered on last when using multiple PSUs, so in your example you'd turn the 1000w PSU on first and then the 750w PSU last.
Edit: It should also be noted that these are from a new lineup that seems to have moved away from the amazing Leadex OEM platform that we all know and love. Until more details are out there (particularly, a jonnyguru review showing the innards and who the OEM is) I'd stick with the known quality of the Leadex based G2 series.
i will alter that. But as for buying these over the well know leadex super stud 1300 g2 the 1300 g2 will not run the s-7's that are pulling more then 1400 watts. Ie batch 8. So you would need to get a 1600 g2 1600 p2 1600 t2 All of them are more then 300 usd. The 1600 g2 which I have owned and tested the 1600 p2 which I still own and the 1600 t2 which I have owned are all good psu. as I understand the batch 8 the 1300 g2 at 179.99 - 20 rebate = 159.99 no longer can do the job http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438011&cm_re=evga_1300_g2-_-17-438-011-_-Productthus the 1600 g2 1600 p2 1600 t2 are all really expensive The 1600w version would be better efficiency wise, but the 1300w units would work just fine with the 135 chip 700MHz. B8 pulls approximately 1237.6w DC from the PSU, so while it's close to the rated 1300w it's not a problem, especially considering EVGA covers these for 7 years under warranty. These GQ are only 5 years. |
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So it's better to buy the 2980W 39Y4714 if you are into mining long term. It should be compatible with the Finksy 2880W board, right? If so I may buy 39Y4714 model from now on.
I think J4bberwock's board should still work fine with it. I'm going to find out. If it works fine, that's all I'm getting from now on. I wish I knew about it sooner before I got the 18 x 2880's I have now. They will work fine, the pinout looks to be the same. I've known for a long time about the efficiency, but I hesitated to put it out there since no one else had ever mentioned it; I figured my units might be old or tired. After further testing, I'm just about sure I'm right. Now I wait for someone to either confirm my findings, or prove me wrong. |
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Slight correction to your instructions...
Controller must be powered on last when using multiple PSUs, so in your example you'd turn the 1000w PSU on first and then the 750w PSU last.
Edit: It should also be noted that these are from a new lineup that seems to have moved away from the amazing Leadex OEM platform that we all know and love. Until more details are out there (particularly, a jonnyguru review showing the innards and who the OEM is) I'd stick with the known quality of the Leadex based G2 series.
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Right, i would like to go with this. However i only have 120v, which is what i meant, when i vaguely mentioned that the S7 would max a 120v15a breaker. Sorry for being unclear. So i'd need a 1600w~ 120v PSU to have enough efficiency to run 1300w DC under 1440w, 1400w would be prefered, not sure why but i went through half a dozen surge protector (Belkin, APC) and all the one i ran at 1440 or higher melted or such. My only alternative is having a big cord extention, about 15 meters, bringing the 240v to my living room window, plugging a rated 40A PDU or whatever and then plugging some 2000 as recommended or 2880 PSU that Finksy. Dunno how doable that all is, i never used 240v. yeah if you go atx you need the expensive evga 1600 models or a leadex 1600 model all cost good money. 300 usd plus could you try 2 1000 watt evga's http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438044 this is about 225 for 2 I found a good setup use this rebate :http://images10.newegg.com/uploadfilesfornewegg/rebate/SH/EVGA3MIRsDec16Dec3115cd12us1.pdfbuy this 1000 watts http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438062buy this 750 watts http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438060both get a 30 dollar rebate so the 750 watts = 95- 30 or 65 usd 1000 watts - 135-30 or 105 usd total = 170 usd use the 750 to run the controller and 1 board use the 1000 to run the other 2 boards. use 2 power strips to the same 20 amp line 120 volt line or 2 power strips to 2 15 amp 120 volt lines. Have all power off plug in everything then turn the 750 watt on first and the 1000 watt on second. do a software configuration like freq ? not sure what batch so freq ? and do the fan at 61% check hashing good to go. gold psu's giving a max of 1750 watts for 170 usd after rebates that is really fucking good. Slight correction to the above advice: Controller needs to be the last thing powered on, so you'd turn the 1000w PSU on first and then the 750w PSU on after. |
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The 2000w PSU is not platinum, in fact it's silver but pretty close to gold. It's younger and stronger 2500w brother is gold rated, though. The 2880w beast is not actually platinum either, it is solidly in silver territory. I measured about 87% efficiency. Everyone confuses it with it's younger, slightly more buff 2980w brother the 39Y7414 is platinum, and much more expensive on ebay. We're all buying the 39Y 7349 which has no official efficiency numbers anywhere that I can find as it's too old to have been put through the 80+ testing program. My own testing though, puts it at about 87% efficiency at 50% load. The 2980W 39Y 4714 shows a little over 94% efficiency at 50% load verses the 1880W 39Y 7349 at your stated 87% at 50% load. So, let me make sure I understand this correctly; If we had an S7 that we knew consumed 1210 watts [And used a 2980W 39Y7414 with 93% efficiency with approximately 40.6% load] we should see about 1,301 Watts at the wall on a watt meter. AND If we had an S7 that we knew consumed 1210 watts [And used a 2880W 39Y7349 with 86% efficiency with approximately 42.0% load] we should see about 1,407 Watts at the wall on a watt meter. 105 watts difference. It would be about the same with 2 x S7's on each PSU I believe. Let me see: If we had 2 x S7's we knew consumed 2420 watts combined [And used a 2980W 39Y7414 with 93% efficiency with approximately 81% load] we should see about 2,602 watts at the wall on a watt meter. AND If we had 2 x S7's we knew consumed 2420 watts combined [And used a 2880W 39Y7349 with 86% efficiency with approximately 84% load] we should see about 2,813 watts at the wall on a watt meter. So, my math is showing about 105 watts extra has to be burnt to power an S7 with the 2880W verses the 2980W. If we had 20 x S7's and burnt 105 watts more per S7 with the 2880W PSU, that would be 2100 more watts burnt. The price difference between each PSU is approximately $75 to $85. Let's use the $75 difference... Converting that 2100 watts (2.1 kW) more power into dollars when using 10 x 2980's to power 20 x S7's: 730 hours in a month x 2.1 kW per hour = 1,533 kWh's in a month 1,533 kWh's x $0.10 per kWh = $153.30 saved in a month [All 10 x 2980W's paid for in 9.785 months; the price difference between 2980W & 2880W made up in 5 months] 1,533 kWh's x $0.09 per kWh = $137.97 saved in a month [All 10 x 2980W's paid for in 10.87 months; the price difference between 2980W & 2880W made up in 5.435 months] 1,533 kWh's x $0.08 per kWh = $122.64 saved in a month [All 10 x 2980W's paid for in 12.23 months; the price difference between 2980W & 2880W made up in 6.115 months] 1,533 kWh's x $0.07 per kWh = $107.31 saved in a month [All 10 x 2980W's paid for in 13.98 months; the price difference between 2980W & 2880W made up in 7 months] 1,533 kWh's x $0.06 per kWh = $ 91.98 saved in a month [All 10 x 2980W's paid for in 16.31 months; the price difference between 2980W & 2880W made up in 8.15 months] 1,533 kWh's x $0.05 per kWh = $ 76.65 saved in a month [All 10 x 2980W's paid for in 19.57 months; the price difference between 2980W & 2880W made up in 9.785 months] 1,533 kWh's x $0.04 per kWh = $ 61.32 saved in a month [All 10 x 2980W's paid for in 24.46 months; the price difference between 2980W & 2880W made up in 12.23 months] 1,533 kWh's x $0.03 per kWh = $ 45.99 saved in a month [All 10 x 2980W's paid for in 32.62 months; the price difference between 2980W & 2880W made up in 16.31 months] That's about the gist of it. When I was looking into using those 2880w-ers for my farm, the 2980w-ers were quite a bit more expensive. I picked up 2880w-ers for ~$50 on average, and the 2980w-ers were not available under $300. They seem to have come down a bit now, though. I of course went with the 2880w-ers as I assumed they were platinum also since that's what I've seen everybody here call them. Measuring DC output and comparing it to AC input tells a different story, though. I've since converted pretty much every PSU in my farm to server PSUs with 93.5-94% efficiency (Which is pretty much Titanium rated) at 100% load as I tend to run them close to or pretty much maxed out. My power only costs about 6c USD, but the savings still add up with the gain in efficiency. The lower heat output is nice too, along with opening up capacity for a few more rigs to run on my pretty much maxed out 200A service. I may look into the 2980w-ers now that they've come down in price along with j4abber's awesome breakout boards. The ease of use is unparalleled in the server PSU world thanks to his breakout board. My current PSUs require a lot of labour... Mostly soldering, but also rigging up the wires so they're "modular". An interesting fact to note is that the 2880W-ers are made by Astec, but IBM decided to go with Delta as the OEM for the 2980W-ers. Delta are also the OEM on the popular 2000W PSUs. I'm a huge Delta fan boy, every server PSU I run is made by them. They're pretty much top dog as far as I know. |
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My 6 S7s with Dec firmware and A6 switched back to Kano with no issues.
My other batches switched fine, only had trouble with B8. B8's controller is different to all previous batches. |
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My B8 also shit the bed. Fucking garbage company that bitmain is.... Why can't they get software right? |
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Looks like both kano and solo are having difficulty. DDOS?
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Prelude, https://chain.so/address/DOGE/DQN1QGefZTzrSFLPe66ediW4UXhKbernqZIs the above address your? If yes coins are moved somwhere already... I have recently changed pool doge generation address (pool restarted today) and I found out that more than 100 confirms are required for coins to mature. What I am trying to say is that I blindley followed BTC rules but they are different for doge. I am too tired right now to check doge code to find out how many blocks are required. Any way I will dig it ASAP and And I will fix pool block stats That is indeed my DOGE address at poloniex. Are you saying the coins aren't lost, and that I'll eventually get them? Would be cool if so, but no biggie if not. Wallet is almost finished syncing, I'll continue mining to it instead. I'm enjoying the pool so far, loshia. Much better than nicehash solo which is what I was using previously when I felt like having some solo fun. |
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Do I need a DOGE wallet + address, or can I simply use an exchange's DOGE deposit address for my found blocks? Don't really want to install the DOGE wallet.
It is up to you. I will say as log as your exchange deposit address is permanent use it. Jus keep an eye on it. That is not the best you can do though but if things go wrong with exchange considering current exchange rate the loss will not be so big What he said. You should keep an eye on it, a problem with the wallet can cause the exchange generates new addresses for all users. As an alternative, you could use one of these online wallets: https://my.dogechain.info/#/overviewhttps://block.ioThanks for the replies, guys. I found block #1021631 but the coins never showed up at my poloniex deposit address, so I guess that answers that. Not a good idea to solo mine directly to an exchange's address. I'm syncing the full doge wallet, now. |
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with the cold front moving into ontario, Ive been able to bring my inake temps down from ~5C to below 0C. Fans are at the lowest setting (doesnt seem to have go any slower than 15% PWM (2000-2100 rpm)) and board temperatures of around 54-62C using 681MHz/4.6TH
is it possible to get the PWM to go lower? If i enter 1%, 5%, 10% there's no noticed difference in volume.
With a proper fan controller they'd surely go lower, but bitmain probably set a lower limit. Could possibly be worked around by hacking the firmware, but that isn't worth it IMO. 2100 should be plenty quiet, and you want to make sure you have enough static pressure. |
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The 2000w PSU is not platinum, in fact it's silver but pretty close to gold. It's younger and stronger 2500w brother is gold rated, though. The 2880w beast is not actually platinum either, it is solidly in silver territory. I measured about 87% efficiency. Everyone confuses it with it's younger, slightly more buff 2980w brother the 39Y7414 is platinum, and much more expensive on ebay. We're all buying the 39Y 7349 which has no official efficiency numbers anywhere that I can find as it's too old to have been put through the 80+ testing program. My own testing though, puts it at about 87% efficiency at 50% load. |
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He's limited to 120v I believe, which limits him to high end ATX if he wants over ~1000w or so. Yeah i'm in an appartment so i don't have a lot of options when it comes down to 240v. Well, i could like, unplug my oven and find a way to bring that 240v all the way to the living room window, then with 40A available i could get those. Is that the two PSU you plug with one jabberwock board and you can control voltage and power like 3 S7? That sounds like you'd be seriously compromising your living space... You should make or buy a wiring harness that combines 2 different 120v circuits into 1 240v circuit. Biodom, I meant original gangster lol. Basically, any 165 chip batch. |
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Oh, well, even early B1 pulls just 1280-1290 at the wall with EVGA 1300 (at 120V), hashing at above B8 (4.83Th).
B5 does even better and B7 does 1345W at the wall with the same EVGA, which is not even a plat PSU, for 5.1 TH
oldies, but goodies, relatively speaking.
I am just saying...it went a bit downhill if you think about it...
It certainly did. Bitmain figured they'd squeeze the last drops out of the S7s by removing chips and applying a factory overclock to them to give us approximately the same speed. That brings efficiency and reliability down. I'm a victim of the lower reliability, and it seems I'm not alone. B8 seems to have a higher failure rate so far. At 700MHz they're pretty much tapped out, and overclocking is not an option until we figure out how to control voltage. My OG S7s run at 6TH/s in comparison with overclocking. |
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