Are those smooth holes for the water channels with threads on the ends so you can mount the fittings/etc with the threads, or threaded all the way through?
Looks like 15mm(?) of threads
They are smooth inside, you can see the detail "X" on the drawing. Yes, min 15mm of threads. Americans, be aware that this thread is straight, the fittings need a sealing! As a conclusion of my design I would say it's over specified but totally does it's job. I am running with 30 degree cooling water but cannot clock my miners higher any ways because that would require a voltage modification. Also the step down power converters are at their limits. It would totally be possible to produce a cheaper solution, maybe like somebody mentioned before a copper plate with soldered-on pipe. Also the surface smoothness of "Ra 1.6" is way smoother than the original heat sink and makes it expensive. @Icoin: Your module looks like it only cools the ASIC's and not the voltage converters? Did somebody already build it and use it on an Avalon? I would be curious about other peoples experiences. I don't feel that there is a market for selling the cooling elements. To much work is involved until you have a running solution, even if you buy the heat sinks. If you want to produce larger quantities a redesign would make sense. Maybe in a way of fixing a PCB on both sides. The main advantage for me is clearly that the noise is much (really really much!) less and I can keep my rig on the balcony in a hot, humid and dusty environment without worrying too much. |
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Nice work man  since aluminum is kind of expensive and drilling those wholes can't be achieved by most DIY folks, would you think some setup like this would be good or even better? http://imageshack.us/f/360/mkhdd4max02400hz0.jpg/did you consider this? I think a user posted something similar to this. I'm also looking into making my own watercooler, help would be very much appreciated! Aluminium is expensive? Did you buy copper lately? Yes, I considered such a design and I think it's more doable with your tools at home. I however think it will be difficult to get the surface flat and straight if you are only using sheet metal as basis and then apply heat when soldering. I am pretty sure submerging is the to-go way for DIY. I just didn't want to have all the oil on my balcony... I published the manufacturing drawing, just let a machining shop near you quote it. |
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I found the R9, unnecessary to mention that it is fucking small  I guess it doesn't pay of to tweak around with the voltage, don't think that anybody will on existing boards. |
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At least in datasheet i see operating temperature range [ -20 .. +85 ]
Are you sure that's not Tj? |
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Produktion nach Hygienestandarts find ich gut. D.h. ich brauche keine Bedenken haben, wenn ich das als Warmhalteplatte für Speisen verwenden möchte Was habe ich mir da mit den Avalon's Sorgen gemacht! |
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Isn't it nothing but good news for Bitcoin at the moment? Why is the price so low then?
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I was thinking about reworking the original heatsinks to fit on the top... It's useless in general, too much work for too little effort. Better pay more attention to thermal contact of PCB bottom and heatsink. Also thanks for pictures, i noticed your chips is at 50 c, thats a good temperature - they will work fine up to 100c as was said somewhere. At least in datasheet i see operating temperature range [ -20 .. +85 ] The plate would only be for better thermal contact of PCB bottom and heatsink. The PCB is just too soft to be pressed against the aluminium properly over the whole surface just by the few screws. What would it take for a volt mod? Soldering around on every single step down converter? How far (in % of HW errors) can I go up with the frequency without risking of damaging something? What's the time frame the --avalon-auto option uses to calculate the HW error rate and adjust the frequency? |
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... and an aluminum plate to the front which really presses the chips down onto the heatsink.
It has been said many times not to put anything on top of the chips. You'll destroy them. It was said because putting anything on chips would make air pass worse thru the aircooled unit and will decrease overall cooling efficiency. Also was noted that chips has bad thermal conductivity on top due to the air gap in chip package, so most of the heat is going to the bottom where is good thermal conductivity exist and then to pcb. I was thinking about reworking the original heatsinks to fit on the top... |
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... and an aluminum plate to the front which really presses the chips down onto the heatsink.
It has been said many times not to put anything on top of the chips. You'll destroy them. Thru cooling?! |
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I know, nothing special - but it is the best I can get my hands on at the moment...  What kind of scientist wouldn't check his measurement equipment for plausibility?  In the lower and also higher range?  Hm.  Temperature of the voltage converters  Chips themselves  Cooling plate  Chiller at set value 29 degree (We have 36 outside at the moment and the dew point is around that)  Pump (cheap, around 30$) and two rigs  "Nongfu Spring" - my favorite! Running on pure water at the moment, still not sure what to use as a fluid later on. I was already thinking about adding alcohol to prevent this from growing inside my water, but I am a little hesitant because of the sealings and stuff.  Still a mess, will clean up after everything is working  Water inlet  Return temperature after 3 modules in serial connection  Thanks for your attention. |
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Can it be that --avalon-auto is only working with a reading for the fan rpm's? I use water cooling and have no fans...
Also is it possible that the setting for 16 miners instead of 24 is not working?
Last time i looked at your screen i found a huge amount of hw errors even at moderate frequencies, i would try in simular case (if auto fails) to increment manually in 5 Mhz steps and look at hw error rate. The only possible way fan data can make a "collision" with auto frequency option in this piece of code, if (!info->optimal) {
if (info->fan_pwm >= opt_avalon_fan_max) {
applog(LOG_WARNING,
"AVA%i: Above optimal temperature, throttling",
avalon->device_id);
avalon_dec_freq(info);
}
but info->fan_pwm is not rpm sensor reading, its pwm setting for fan speed. Even if you don't have one or it just not connected - it will keep on passing pwm value to controller. So if your fan reading is zero - there is no protection besides --avalon-cutoff option, its just for info purpose in current version. Thats how i figured it out after looking at sources when my new fans went to 0 rpm and temperature starts growing. I see no reason for changing 24 to 16 miners options to not work, only one thing - they must be plugged in DATA_P1 and P2 ports. That was your message in my thread: You should check accepted diff1 shares against hw errors, thats what you really want to know. According to your screen you have ( 9032 / 735510 ) * 100% = 1.22% error rate Try the latest firmware that was posted in "Avalon ASIC users thread" and overclock it to 375+ --avalon-auto seams working now, maybe I just was too impatient. I just don't get the results I wanted with my water cooling, frequency is on 354 now with the auto option. I am thinking of applying thermal paste to the back and an aluminum plate to the front which really presses the chips down onto the heatsink. |
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Can it be that --avalon-auto is only working with a reading for the fan rpm's? I use water cooling and have no fans... Also is it possible that the setting for 16 miners instead of 24 is not working? @ckolivas: I got some water cooling blocks on spare - if you like I would send you one over as a donation Just PM me if interested. |
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Is there any risk from using open loop system running tap water in such systems? i.e. corossion, mineral deposits, etc?
At first your environmental responsibility should tell you not to do so. Secondly: condensation. |
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I run the water now at ~30 degree Celsius, I have 36 ambient temp today with high moisture. 2 pcb's @ one heat sink is not a bad idea, however impossible now with the top board. You can put it onto --avalon-auto and it will sort out the freq automagicly by looking at the % of hardware errors.
I did that, and it didn't change the frequency for about 20 minutes now - running at ~1.2% HW errors. Can it be that it only works with readings of the fan RPM's? |
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Very nice, I want like to test a set up like that but I think for me is easier for me run on air. I have a balcony about the same size with nice insulation, for aditional 800watts(the chiller) I could just put the air conditioner there and run two or three avalons@350 below 51 degrees. But there is the noise.
If we build more blocks how cheap they can get?
The price of the block really depends on the number you order. For orders <100 piece you will not be able to get much below the 150$ I mentioned. If you change the design a little (thinner, less material) and open the tolerances you might be able to approach 50$/piece for large orders. The chiller (800W) is not always running... when it is it makes noise like the outside part of an air condition unit. |
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You can put it onto --avalon-auto and it will sort out the freq automagicly by looking at the % of hardware errors. Air cooled systems run at 365 MHz here, water cooled should go up to 400+ (450 MHz max)
Would it be enough to enter that into the "More Options(Default: --quiet)" field in the GUI? |
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Wie rechnest du denn? Ich komm da auch 11 cent je kwh
Ich hab gar nicht gerechnet  ...ist also doch guenstig. |
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You should check accepted diff1 shares against hw errors, thats what you really want to know. According to your screen you have ( 9032 / 735510 ) * 100% = 1.22% error rate Try the latest firmware that was posted in "Avalon ASIC users thread" and overclock it to 375+ It's such a pain to see this "design flaw" that is not allowed you to connect 4th channel that is right behind stepdown converters. If i was you, i would put connector on the other side of PCB and rearrange pins in male connector accordingly, or "enlong" one row of pins to make it able fit perpendicular. When i look at your photos it makes me want to reapply thermal paste to my unit.. Also thanks for sharing your experience with water cooling. Thanks for your reply. The 4th channel which is not in use does not at all result in any temperature difference I could feel by hand... same applies for the difference between the first and the last module. It seams the problem is not at all to get the heat of the aluminum block, but the high thermal resistance between the chip and the heat sink. I guess two channels would be totally sufficient. The chiller allows a set value down to 2 degree Celsius, I just shit my pants a little in fear of condensation. I live in a really hot and humid place. What's a "healthy" hardware error rate? |
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This is the water cooled miner running at 325MHz now - can somebody point me on where to see if a still have potential to go higher? What are the "rejected", what the "discarded" shares? Where do I see the hardware error rate?  That's the air cooled miner next to it:  Here are the pool stats - I don't really understand why the water cooled miner is not faster by the number the frquency is higher (~15%)  |
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Finally found some time... Removing the PCB from the original heatsink - here you can clearly see that the only areas where you have real contact are around the screws...  Precision machining, fits like a charm  Fuck - forgot the plug, having a collision   Looks not really beautiful  Decided to not use the water channel behind the voltage converters and put in the thermosensor instead  My balcony     |
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