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Thinking of trying this OS vs Eth OS , my main question is do they have drivers now on Linux for the Blockchain fix ?
otherwise there is really no point to using this with claymore since you get a way lower hash-rate withoute the blockchaindrivers
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Main prob with master nodes mining is u need a ton of coins, Dash i think is 1000? and eth
pos will be more I bet. Only the ppl who got in stupid esrly can do this
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I think the cryptoworld attracts a lot of mean people. There's a higher chance of bumping in the scammers than in normal life. I've been burnt a few times on ebay too, but mostly it goes well, unless you're selling miners.
fuck ebay paypal , they banned my paypal account for the fact they claimed i was selling digital currency which they claim is against thier TOS. but you can sell from coinbase direct to paypal? the fuck? The real reason I was banned is one of of every 10 sellers attemted chargebacks on me , fucking croocks they. recive the bitcoin then open a dispute a few weeks later claiming they were hacked etc, happend a few times too with ebays sales its not worth the hassle to sell gear anymore or btc just keep it |
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Great news. Yes I am putting 30 Antminers in a shipping container, sometimes it will have complete loss of power, so I have been very worried about possible thermal cycling killing the units. Cheers  30 Antminers? Nice Won't 30 units heat that container? What is average temperature inside and outside container? p.s.Loss of power sucks... how do you solve it with that container? Yes they will heat the container when running, that's not the problem. When it shuts down the temp can be as cold as -40 deg C (live in Canada). I am just crossing my fingers that the S9's circuitry can survive that temp... What about summer ? winter mining is trivial , its spring and summer than separates the men from the boys |
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We have variance of ~20% on the daily run, every yearly estimation can only be completely wrong and useless, IMHO.
lol no shit its hard to calulate monthy profits and u are trying to project for a year? you know what difficulty and price fluxtuations are? heck week to week there is varince let alone yearly lol best thing you do is lookat your expenses and costs to mine, power, parts gear etc and project how much you need to make to ROI its useless to using a mining calculator to project mining earings correctly, I guess you can take daily predictions and multiply by 365 but I will most definitely be wrong |
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just cannot agree more on the PSU part... after i got two PSUs melt down...luckily the rigs are still fine, but only the PSUs... just because that I chose to buy the 150 bucks 1500w PSUs instead of EVGA which is 350 buck plus... but my takeaways are I just wasted 300 bucks for the burned PSUs and two weeks mining time... ... also, one more thing, do not run the PSU over 80% capacity, and my another lesson...  I keep telling ppl not to buy those. cheap psu, either buy the server grade psu with breakout boards or high quality japanese solid state cap atx like evga, corsair etc |
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Don't forget even a 2 year ROI is amazing in the world of investment. People on wall street lose their minds over on that sweet 5% , uncorrelated with market annual returns. If GPU mining maintains a "terrible" 2 year ROI for another 10 years, we'll still be rich ^ This , the days are 2 month ROI are over but im quite comfotable with a 6 month to 1 year ROI or longer on my gear as long at electricity is under control whats dead can NEVER die !! |
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pics you requested , this is me standing right where you pointed, I cant get this phone camera to do better perspective its and iphone six any tips on how to get better panoramic views ? I think this would be good for the one side. Let me think about the other side.  oh i see, makes a ton of sense, thanks @philipma1957 on the high power side watching for the power I come up with this  Ahh I see what you are saying should not be so hard to set the vents like that |
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Mining Dudes, a professional GPU mining equipment manufacturer that makes profitable simple to use mining rigs and kits. They recently released their Hyper Miner 2250 which can be seen in their mining rig shop.
Traditional GPU Miners with Plug & Play Experience.Mining Dudes is your one-stop shop for all things mining. In order to create a seamless experience from purchasing your first mining rig to mining your first coin, Mining Dudes has done all the heavy lifting for you. The Dudes have not only built a powerful, sleek machine capable of mining at 2250 h/s on their smallest rig but, have made it as simple as plugging the power cord in and you’re good to go. How is That Even Possible?The Dudes spent countless hours putting together a miner that could handle the best GPUs in the market. After several long weeks, the Dudes had finally perfected their miner. The result, The Hyper Miner 2250. The pictures don’t do it justice.
The Hyper Miner 2250The signature product offered by Mining Dudes comfortably mines at 2250 h/s with a 1000 watt PSU. The internals of their rigs are composed of the top of the line parts in each respective area. Three Asus Rog 1080Ti GPUs with modified bios have been tuned to consistently pump out optimal hash rates. The open-air frame is built in-house with aluminum railing and an acrylic baseboard to support internals. The operating system of choice is ethOS, which allows for easy configuration and coin change requests. The entire setup process once you receive your miner is less than five minutes. See more information from the link below... https://miningdudes.com/products/hyper-miner-2250 youre late to the party the time to rip ppl off has passed 😂😂😂 |
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pics you requested , this is me standing right where you pointed, I cant get this phone camera to do better perspective its and iphone six any tips on how to get better panoramic views ? I think this would be good for the one side. Let me think about the other side. oh i see, makes a ton of sense, thanks @philipma1957 |
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pics you requested , this is me standing right where you pointed, I cant get this phone camera to do better perspective its and iphone six any tips on how to get better panoramic views ?   sorry about the mess lol  right corner of room ,from door  rafters from same perspetive  other side  left side with the three fans  box to hold power switches to door and underneath it we will put the three sensors for each side so its two boxes like this all off one 20amp breaker split two ways, six switches     two wires one for each side 12-3 AWG  The handy man did not want to work in the heat, and I did not want to turn off my rigs lol , so as a compromise we hooked up one of the fans to an extension cord and within 2-3 hours it went from execisvely hot to a balmy 70 degrees, I checked again this morning 66 degrees , but I'll get a better thermostat tmw  his phone rings non stop lol  |
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Unifi is the best price/quality in the market.
Currently running a Ubiquiti edgerouter, POE switch, managed switch, and 3 wifi AP's. They all just work. Oh, Ubiquiti That's another story - they aim at Cisco for their competition, not any "lesser" brands. I think they used to consider their only "peers" to be Cisco, Northern Telecom, and PERHAPS 3Com at the bottom end of their range. Thier management tools are so awseome, you can see and control the switches wireless routers all from the same UI Im buying another 24 port Ubiquti switch next week |
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all the profitably mined currencies are under pressure from a staggeringly high number of people that have gotten into mining during the course of 2017. For ETH, ZEC and some dual pairs, it looks like there are currently more miners than investors. So whenever there is a noticeable rally, these coins get smashed massively by the miners rushing in to cash their inventories...
That's why it's not a very positive outlook for ZCASH when it can barely hold at 400 USD for a couple of minutes only to get pummeled back 100+ USD...
Not enough buyers of ZCASH market cap is too low |
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These fans have humidistat and temp control, we are going to run the controlls for every fan down to where the switches for powering on and off each fan are so it is easier to access
Definitely screw them into the boards they're being mounted to. Also, the humidity and temp SENSORS are in those boxes with the controls, are you sure you want to move them away from where the fans are at? Kind of a tradeoff if you do or if you don't, depending on where you DO mount them - right at the intake area for your miner shelves should work well. Gonna need more conduit though if you do move them, for core requirements - or some way to "hide" the wiring in the wall(s). A single 2x4 in the middle of the hole isn't going to affect airflow noticeably, shouldn't be an issue. Might have made sense to put a centering hole in from underneath FIRST though to avoid that. Definitely screw them into the boards they're being mounted to. Ok thanks I though I should screw them down. I will also tar them as suggested in this thread Also, the humidity and temp SENSORS are in those boxes with the controls, are you sure you want to move them away from where the fans are at? Ugh I worried about the fact that the sensors are close to the fans for a reason, the problem is I would never be able to reach them if they were up in the rafters : garage roof is at least 15-20 feet high from the inside I plan to mount them right against the wall at the same level of the miners. Gonna need more conduit though if you do move them, for core requirements - or some way to "hide" the wiring in the wall(s). -Yup i got two rolls of 100ft conduit all meaured up and good to go. A single 2x4 in the middle of the hole isn't going to affect airflow noticeably, shouldn't be an issue.
Might have made sense to put a centering hole in from underneath FIRST though to avoid that. Yeah it was an oversight on our part , for now with the fan that is on , it does not seem to be and issue thank god |
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screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed
I guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?
No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above. That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it. Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc... http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.html I see thanks for the tips. I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue. SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ? Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ? thanks again I have 1 vent like that I used 4 screws I put down this under it http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-6-in-x-50-ft-Select-Window-and-Door-Flashing-Tape-1343003/206495170then a thin layer of tar then the vent with 4 screws then the roll of flashing tape then tar then singles it is more then 18 years old 3 hurricanes winds gusted up to 95 in one of them does not leakI did have to replace the motor after 2 years the replacement moter is like 15-16 years old. 700 is a good price for his labor do not worry about intake my guess is the garage is not air tight and enough air will get in. you kind of want a low intake with a air filter on it i will show an idea later Thanks @philipma1957 I will grab the flashing paper and the tar and 24 screws later today , the installer gets off work at 4pm and will head here directly so I will be ready I already ordered the low gravity intake , but I can return it if your Idea is better, I figured I could put a filter on the gravity intake after its installed my issue with the gravity intake is simple will you add duct work in the garage so the air goes really low to the ground? if you do that it will work well. gravity intake with an attached duct to the floor >>>>> miners >>>>>>> roof fans the above will pull air from roof down a flex duct past a filter at the miners up to the roof so how big is the gravity intake ? here is a 20 inch flex duct http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-20-in-x-25-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-R8-Silver-Jacket-F8IFD20X300/302001685?and a 16 inch flex duct http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-16-in-x-12-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-with-Metalized-Jacket-R8-FD-12R8-16/203393287?attach the flex duct here  two intakes  The gravity intake I ordered is 19 inches ,vs the 26 inch one that is way to big for my roof. So i need a matching size flex duct I see. I see that makes a ton of sense attaching the flexible ducts to bring the outside air close to the ground, on the placement of the gravity vents ? Why so close to the edge of the roof ? I was going to put then in line with the exhuast fans just along the same end of the roof as your diagram Thanks allot for the tips btw we turned on just two of the fans today and I kid you not it was AMAZING , the temps on my GPUS went down from 90 degrees and 100% fan to as low as 68 degrees 45% fan for most cards ! some cards are at 74% still but fan speeds can now be set to auto instead of the fixed 80% fan i was using. room tempreature is basically equal with outside now around 75degress compared to low 100s Another thing I notice is there is no more heat transfer to the metal racks, before i would nearly burn my hands on the racks sometimes they were so hot, not they are cool to touch. My 4k PSUs also were very hot and needed powerful fans or they would shut down, now I can even turn off the fans and they are cool to the touch, I might try my hand at dual mining again when all the fans are running to see what temps look like. All this is cooling around 100 GPUs with basically one 1500CFM exhaust fan , no gravity intake yet in a poorly insulated garage , these fans are amazing. I say one fan because the other one still has a tarp over it, we did not finishing replacing the shingles on the other two before it started to rain and rain was getting in the garage so we tarped it up till tomorrow. One finaly thing these Dayton fans are high quality, super quiet , you cant hear them, I actually wonder if they are running at all or at full speed , I guess I'll play with them more when we bring down the controls. |
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screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed
I guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?
No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above. That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it. Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc... http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.htmlI see thanks for the tips. I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue. SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ? Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ? thanks again I have 1 vent like that I used 4 screws I put down this under it http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-6-in-x-50-ft-Select-Window-and-Door-Flashing-Tape-1343003/206495170then a thin layer of tar then the vent with 4 screws then the roll of flashing tape then tar then singles it is more then 18 years old 3 hurricanes winds gusted up to 95 in one of them does not leakI did have to replace the motor after 2 years the replacement moter is like 15-16 years old. 700 is a good price for his labor do not worry about intake my guess is the garage is not air tight and enough air will get in. you kind of want a low intake with a air filter on it i will show an idea later Thanks @philipma1957 I will grab the flashing paper and the tar and 24 screws later today , the installer gets off work at 4pm and will head here directly so I will be ready I already ordered the low gravity intake , but I can return it if your Idea is better, I figured I could put a filter on the gravity intake after its installed |
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screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed
I guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?
No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above. That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it. Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc... http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.htmlI see thanks for the tips. I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue. SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ? Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ? thanks again |
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pricing on the l3 makes no sense, s9 makes more profit and costs half what L3 does
What Am i missimg
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I worked as a roofer for 3 years and in general contracting for a number of years after that. I would recommend screwing the roof vents (through the bottom flange) right into the plywood below the shingles --- use lots of roof sealant too of course ( I assume by Glue you meant that and not something like liquid nails?). https://www.grainger.com/product/5UFP4?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916684477!!!!91281356757!&ef_id=WYugCgAAA45Grdjt:20171001233511:s&kwid=productads-adid^50916684477-device^c-plaid^91281356757-sku^5UFP4-adType^PLA @Elder III yup thats exactly what i bougt |
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you better tar top and side of vent, rafter are 3 foot from out side if you have a 12 inch overhang been a carpenter far 31 years
Tar ? you have any recomendations for that ? all we got is glue , I dont think the garage roof was originally tarred   and what we call icepaper here since we are in a cold climate it prevents moisture and frost on the week but this will go on top of the metal  screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed I guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ? |
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