GabryRox
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September 30, 2017, 09:32:07 PM |
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Hey everyone... anyone here currently or recently mined AEON? With the recent price jump over past few days, it is now approaching XMR as the top profitable coin to mine. However, I've been trying to figure out what the best GPU miner is to use for it and seem to find a lot of conflicting/lack of info.
Looks like aeon-pool.com might be the best pool but if anyone could recommend and link a good GPU miner for this it would be appreciated. I originally thought that maybe Claymore's Cryptonight miner that I am using to mine XMR could also mine AEON, but I don't see it mentioned in any of the threads or pool pages, so it seems maybe it won't work, maybe due to the "light" designation on the AEON algo.
Anyway, any info would be appreciated. If this coin has 1 or 2 more good days and can hold it, seems it could become the most profitable coin to mine, at least with Radeon GPUs.
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crazydane
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September 30, 2017, 09:46:48 PM |
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Here's my latest rig. $15 worth of 3/4" x 3/4" x 36" "dowels" from Home Depot, and a $8 36" wide shelf that is 12" deep. I know a lot of you don't like risers, but I have been very pleased with the 007 versions and powering them directly from the PSU via a 6-pin VGA plug. I have also not had any issues with using M.2 adapters, you just have to be very careful to center it in the slot.
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rs1x
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October 01, 2017, 01:04:28 AM |
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I know this is an awful question but where can I get my hand on some asics at cost ?
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philipma1957 (OP)
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'The right to privacy matters'
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October 01, 2017, 01:43:30 AM |
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I know this is an awful question but where can I get my hand on some asics at cost ?
I simply will say why would anyone sell you an asic at cost? Bitmain was selling the s-9 today for about 1335 shipped to the USA . Pay in bcc only. The miner will mine btc or bcc. I do not know of any other asic at cost.
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Marvell2
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October 01, 2017, 09:58:16 PM Last edit: October 01, 2017, 10:28:32 PM by Marvell2 |
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Got the fans in and working on getting them installed in the next few days. Each one is 1500 CFM uses 285 watts at max so I will put them all on a 20 amp breaker. FOund a local handy man with roofing experince to help he seems to know his stuff we got half of them done today. Will finish the reset tomorw. He was right in saying just having the vents installed would help alot with the heat build up withoute even powering them up yet. Its insane we went from 106 degrees in the garage to 93 with just the first three vents installed, we dont even have the power hooked up yet!! all six , they are actually quite light The gravity intake vents were too big for my roof, 26 inches , so I am returning those gravity vent, its still in box so not great pictures too big underside of the gravity intake vent , no fan ? Install time working on first side view from inside , how we managed to hit every single rafter I have no idea, I hope it does not affect the air flow too much but with six fans I think we are ok. These fans have humidistat and temp control, we are going to run the controlls for every fan down to where the switches for powering on and off each fan are so it is easier to access pics of my small farm TOP view I'll update with more pics tomrow with the remaiing three vents on , we probbaly wont get to the electrical work till tuesday. He is charging me $700 for all the work does that sound about right ? I bought parts for electrical, breaker, conduit , 12-2 gauge wire and switches , replacement roofing slats and water proof paper and glue etc cost $250. I am also going to make in put screws down on all the vents not just glue like he wanted to do what do you think Phill ?
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Elder III
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October 01, 2017, 11:36:08 PM |
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I worked as a roofer for 3 years and in general contracting for a number of years after that. I would recommend screwing the roof vents (through the bottom flange) right into the plywood below the shingles --- use lots of roof sealant too of course ( I assume by Glue you meant that and not something like liquid nails?). https://www.grainger.com/product/5UFP4?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916684477!!!!91281356757!&ef_id=WYugCgAAA45Grdjt:20171001233511:s&kwid=productads-adid^50916684477-device^c-plaid^91281356757-sku^5UFP4-adType^PLA
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hammer24p
Jr. Member
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Merit: 4
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October 01, 2017, 11:48:15 PM |
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you better tar top and side of vent, rafter are 3 foot from out side if you have a 12 inch overhang been a carpenter far 31 years
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Marvell2
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October 02, 2017, 01:10:43 AM |
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you better tar top and side of vent, rafter are 3 foot from out side if you have a 12 inch overhang been a carpenter far 31 years
Tar ? you have any recomendations for that ? all we got is glue , I dont think the garage roof was originally tarred and what we call icepaper here since we are in a cold climate it prevents moisture and frost on the week but this will go on top of the metal screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed I guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?
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Marvell2
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October 02, 2017, 01:11:35 AM |
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I worked as a roofer for 3 years and in general contracting for a number of years after that. I would recommend screwing the roof vents (through the bottom flange) right into the plywood below the shingles --- use lots of roof sealant too of course ( I assume by Glue you meant that and not something like liquid nails?). https://www.grainger.com/product/5UFP4?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916684477!!!!91281356757!&ef_id=WYugCgAAA45Grdjt:20171001233511:s&kwid=productads-adid^50916684477-device^c-plaid^91281356757-sku^5UFP4-adType^PLA @Elder III yup thats exactly what i bougt
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Elder III
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October 02, 2017, 03:40:03 AM |
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screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed I guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?
No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above. That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it. Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc... http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.html
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arielbit
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October 02, 2017, 04:39:53 AM |
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Anyways, I think focusing on the riserless mobos is better strategy moving forward. Save money on unreliable risers, better heat control and lessen OS compatibility issues.
I love the sound of eliminating risers if possible. Just the time saved troubleshooting the rig if it's acting up would be pretty valuable, even without the additional cost savings. I hope that somebody makes one with ample enough spacing to run a full 6-8 higher wattage GPUs, such as GTX 1080 Ti, Rx Vega etc. i don't get what citronick is saying about "better heat control" but risers are important to make space between hot gpus, the closer they are together the hotter they get.. quality risers are good, most of my risers from late 2013 are still going strong. and add to that my 775 motherboards circa 2006-2007 that are paired with these risers are still working... look at that very long motherboard and look at the capacitors in between pcie slots, if only one of them gets cooked you're gonna get some headaches. You must have risers fashioned by jesus himself Ive had risers go bad all over the place , pretty much given up dual mining due to exploding risers or pcie slots connected to risers, It wasnt so bad with hawaii cards never had much issues withrisera on my 390 a s 290x builds unless the risers were doa, but with polaris and even Pascal it seems they can draw excessive amounts of power from the pcie slots , like spike or something which usualy overload tbe pcie connector or the sata part and fuse them. Honestly I think it has something to do with the die shrink from 28 to 16 and the power distribution circuits being poor on this generation v i'l share later pics of my old risers later when i get home.. and my new ones...forgot the versions..they did experienced eth dual mining but changed my strategy. i stopped dual mining eth, shifted to zec, undervolt a little(for some of my cards) and increased the number of my cards. it maybe profitable dualmining eth but with increased number of cards profits level up too. here is my old riser.. here is my new riser.. both are molex...old is ver. 3 new is ver. 6
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Marvell2
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October 02, 2017, 06:41:04 AM |
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screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed I guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?
No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above. That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it. Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc... http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.htmlI see thanks for the tips. I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue. SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ? Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ? thanks again
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philipma1957 (OP)
Legendary
Online
Activity: 4256
Merit: 8614
'The right to privacy matters'
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October 02, 2017, 11:11:15 AM |
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screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed I guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?
No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above. That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it. Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc... http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.htmlI see thanks for the tips. I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue. SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ? Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ? thanks again I have 1 vent like that I used 4 screws I put down this under it http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-6-in-x-50-ft-Select-Window-and-Door-Flashing-Tape-1343003/206495170then a thin layer of tar then the vent with 4 screws then the roll of flashing tape then tar then singles it is more then 18 years old 3 hurricanes winds gusted up to 95 in one of them does not leakI did have to replace the motor after 2 years the replacement moter is like 15-16 years old. 700 is a good price for his labor do not worry about intake my guess is the garage is not air tight and enough air will get in. you kind of want a low intake with a air filter on it i will show an idea later
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Marvell2
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October 02, 2017, 07:53:26 PM |
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screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed I guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?
No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above. That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it. Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc... http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.htmlI see thanks for the tips. I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue. SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ? Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ? thanks again I have 1 vent like that I used 4 screws I put down this under it http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-6-in-x-50-ft-Select-Window-and-Door-Flashing-Tape-1343003/206495170then a thin layer of tar then the vent with 4 screws then the roll of flashing tape then tar then singles it is more then 18 years old 3 hurricanes winds gusted up to 95 in one of them does not leakI did have to replace the motor after 2 years the replacement moter is like 15-16 years old. 700 is a good price for his labor do not worry about intake my guess is the garage is not air tight and enough air will get in. you kind of want a low intake with a air filter on it i will show an idea later Thanks @philipma1957 I will grab the flashing paper and the tar and 24 screws later today , the installer gets off work at 4pm and will head here directly so I will be ready I already ordered the low gravity intake , but I can return it if your Idea is better, I figured I could put a filter on the gravity intake after its installed
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hammer24p
Jr. Member
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Activity: 63
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October 02, 2017, 08:34:04 PM |
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put some tar over the top of the screws
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philipma1957 (OP)
Legendary
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Activity: 4256
Merit: 8614
'The right to privacy matters'
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October 02, 2017, 09:56:06 PM Last edit: October 02, 2017, 10:14:54 PM by philipma1957 |
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screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed I guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?
No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above. That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it. Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc... http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.htmlI see thanks for the tips. I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue. SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ? Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ? thanks again I have 1 vent like that I used 4 screws I put down this under it http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-6-in-x-50-ft-Select-Window-and-Door-Flashing-Tape-1343003/206495170then a thin layer of tar then the vent with 4 screws then the roll of flashing tape then tar then singles it is more then 18 years old 3 hurricanes winds gusted up to 95 in one of them does not leakI did have to replace the motor after 2 years the replacement moter is like 15-16 years old. 700 is a good price for his labor do not worry about intake my guess is the garage is not air tight and enough air will get in. you kind of want a low intake with a air filter on it i will show an idea later Thanks @philipma1957 I will grab the flashing paper and the tar and 24 screws later today , the installer gets off work at 4pm and will head here directly so I will be ready I already ordered the low gravity intake , but I can return it if your Idea is better, I figured I could put a filter on the gravity intake after its installed my issue with the gravity intake is simple will you add duct work in the garage so the air goes really low to the ground? if you do that it will work well. gravity intake with an attached duct to the floor >>>>> miners >>>>>>> roof fans the above will pull air from roof down a flex duct past a filter at the miners up to the roof so how big is the gravity intake ? here is a 20 inch flex duct http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-20-in-x-25-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-R8-Silver-Jacket-F8IFD20X300/302001685?and a 16 inch flex duct http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-16-in-x-12-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-with-Metalized-Jacket-R8-FD-12R8-16/203393287?attach the flex duct here two intakes
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QuintLeo
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October 03, 2017, 01:00:30 AM |
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Here's my latest rig. $15 worth of 3/4" x 3/4" x 36" "dowels" from Home Depot, and a $8 36" wide shelf that is 12" deep.
I know a lot of you don't like risers, but I have been very pleased with the 007 versions and powering them directly from the PSU via a 6-pin VGA plug. I have also not had any issues with using M.2 adapters, you just have to be very careful to center it in the slot.
Nice cooling on that, and isn't that one of those Delta server supplies powering it?
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I'm no longer legendary just in my own mind! Like something I said? Donations gratefully accepted. LYLnTKvLefz9izJFUvEGQEZzSkz34b3N6U (Litecoin) 1GYbjMTPdCuV7dci3iCUiaRrcNuaiQrVYY (Bitcoin)
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QuintLeo
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October 03, 2017, 01:07:08 AM |
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These fans have humidistat and temp control, we are going to run the controlls for every fan down to where the switches for powering on and off each fan are so it is easier to access
Definitely screw them into the boards they're being mounted to. Also, the humidity and temp SENSORS are in those boxes with the controls, are you sure you want to move them away from where the fans are at? Kind of a tradeoff if you do or if you don't, depending on where you DO mount them - right at the intake area for your miner shelves should work well. Gonna need more conduit though if you do move them, for core requirements - or some way to "hide" the wiring in the wall(s). A single 2x4 in the middle of the hole isn't going to affect airflow noticeably, shouldn't be an issue. Might have made sense to put a centering hole in from underneath FIRST though to avoid that.
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I'm no longer legendary just in my own mind! Like something I said? Donations gratefully accepted. LYLnTKvLefz9izJFUvEGQEZzSkz34b3N6U (Litecoin) 1GYbjMTPdCuV7dci3iCUiaRrcNuaiQrVYY (Bitcoin)
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