Also, if anyone has coupons for sale, please pm me your offer... Thanks.
The coupon transfer functionality on the website seems to be broken so I don't think anyone can buy or sell coupons right now. sad day. Its being fixed. Could someone please update me on the safest over clocking potential?
If you have a cold air source, or can handle a lot of noise, 412.5MHz seems to be about the limit before hashrate starts nose-diving. Board temperature around 65C doesn't seem to be the problem. Peaks out around 1.32-1.35TH, and at 425MHz is down to 1.25TH Just remember no overclocking is 'safe', especially as you lose your safety net of the warranty. |
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BTW, is anyone able to compare the noise to an S4 please? I have an S4 and had to find another location for it. I had my neighbour knocking on my door asking what the hell the noise was and saying that he could not sleep with it (we both are in separate houses and his bedroom is about 50 meters away from my house). I have seen reports of the S4 between 70 and 90 db but not sure how accurate they were. It would be great if someone could do a test using the same metering device at the same distances for testing both.
Almost identical to the S4. Are their any recovery SD images like the ones SP provides that would allow you to recover your BBB in the event you can't communicate with it or it gets damaged and you need to replace it? I don't believe so, later S5s won't even have an SD card slot. |
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Does this version get rid of the weird BTCTelecom ads in the software? I have no idea, I've never seen that in the first place. |
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Who run the C1 with hot ambient temperatur. If the temperature is hotter than 30C in the room. I want to know if the miner is still stable?
I've run up to 40C, seems fine if you had 3 more slow rpm fans to the rear of the radiator. |
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OK I opened mine up and cleaned all that paste out, I forgot the stuff between the heatsink and the PCB..... shouldnt matter that much on that side.
Arctic Silver (Silver Oxide thermal paste)
You should NOT use AS5 on a unit like this which has exposed pins and other electronics on the PCB. AS5 is conductive and may cause problems. Additionally, its thermal conductivity is only a 1/10th of what they claim it to be, is 4x less than other competitors and up to 5x more expensive. You can see the full independent paper here, results on page 8. |
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I'm able to connect to the miner again but it's not hashing. Here are the screenshots:
What PSU are you using? |
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Ordered a S5, paid it, batch 4 which should be sent out on January 12. Price paid: 401 USD.
Now advertised on the Bitmain-site: S5, batch 4, should be sent out 12/1: 358 USD.
So basically, by paying early, I get ripped off by Bitmaintech of 43 US$?
Nice move. Really nice move.
In case you haven't noticed, stores (of all kinds, everywhere) change the price of their products constantly. Why should Bitmain be any different? When did they make any price guarantees? And then gave a coupon for the difference anyway! |
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I am missing one barb to complete the system and was wondering is it was possible to leave the return-to-res hoses hanging in the reservoir instead of tied held by a barb.
In other words, I want to omit the barb fitting where there is no need for water tightness. (In my mind there isn't a need)
Your proposed solution is fine as long as you're comfortable with the risks of leaks or things getting knocked over. Without a barb, the returning fluid will impart some force on the radiator. As the system heats up, doesn't it get under pressure? So won't this "leak" or just flow out unless you have a very large reservoir and lots of air in that reservoir? His solution is better than an enclosed one for 'too much pressure', so that's not a problem. Typically the acrylic tubing is sufficient to balance any changes, and the air in the reservoir can be compressed. |
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In the future you can get S3 support here or here. There is no need for a new thread for every issue. |
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How about a much more straightforward approach?
Get rid of the trust list, just treat each and every feedback the same, but weighted by the rank of the person who gave the feedback.
E.g.:
Newbie: x0
Jr.: x0
Full.: x0
Sr.: x1
Hero: x2
Legendary: x4
Staff: x8
(or whatever)
Give users the option to change these settings, i.e. one might chose to ignore ratings from anything below Hero and set Hero to x100, Legendary x1000 and Staff x0 (if they don't like staff) ;-)
That way, it'll be difficult to gather a lot of "fake" feedback, and it will be easy to counter by a small number of more experienced users.
I'd end up on about -200 on that system. |
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- voltage: 12V DC
- current: 1.2A (MAX)
- 3600rpm
- PWM modulation
- Size: 119*119*38(mm)
Excellent, thank you! Not so excellent. Janet, please provide us also with airflow (in CFM) of these fans. ~140CFM |
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What is the process for transferring coupons? Is that donate button supposed to do something? I mean I would assume so but mine doesn't.
dogie- Please reply to this. Donate button not work mine as well. Will let you know. |
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Just seen where Bitmain has crossed out the 9v feature for undervolting? Was this discussed here and I missed it? Was counting on this to work in the future.
Notes
1. Power consumption figures vary with your PSU’s efficiency, the ambient operating temperature and the accuracy of the power meter.
2. PSU: A power supply unit is not included, and you will need to provide an ATX PSU. There are 4 PCI-e connectors for +12V DC input and all four are required. Do not connect more than one PSU to the same hashing board.
3. When better power efficiency is needed in the future due to higher network difficulties, you may want to buy some special PSUs 9V DC with more than 10A output, which will allow you to have a 0.2J/GH mining efficiency, but at lower hashing speed.
I believe this was done to remove confusion for new buyers. If you were in a position to 9V a miner, you'd already know about it. |
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only what is available in the gui. I think it was 196M ? I don't have it running right now, but from what I could tell from the firmware upgrade there were three settings. The middle being default. The lowest setting had no effect. I ran it again today after doing a manual reset of it from the led panel and the same thing happens. Does the S2 run at 1000W consistently or is even my first watt meter showing 1090 too high for the miner to be at. Maybe it is the PSU, something with it. I looked at the cables and such and couldn't find anything unusual. There was some wear on the fabric covering the large on power cable, but that was from being bent. It's got to be something with the PSU or the controller firmware/board at the base and/or the beaglebone (i think that is what it is).
At this point I would think it's the psu... mine died after the 2 months and it would also run for a few minutes and shut off (I don't have a killawatt). I had it replaced by Bitmain and it's been running perfectly since. You could try removing one or two of the boards and see how well it runs like that.... that's what I did while waiting for my replacement psu. Its better than nothing, although it also reduces stress on controller and the backpane. Only real way to know is get another PSU to test the S2 separately. |
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Odd. Today my wattage rose from 845 yesterday, includes pump, to 880 watts. Also this evening my hashrate was down around 950. Radiator is in the window drawing in 25.4°F air. I tried the GUI reboot for the first time. The unit wattage dropped to 220 watts (generally 145 watts when starting cold) then picked up to ~500 watts. The GUI said I was only getting about 500GH/s and no temperature was registering. After a minute of this I shut it down (sent halt from ssh) then killed power, let sit for 60 seconds and reapplied power. Started at 145 watts then up to 820 watts and after 8 minutes getting 968GH/s(avg) and rising. Temperatures are still reading 0 on all 4 chains. Disconnecting a fan....
I don't think the cause of the power creep has ever been confirmed, but it may be to do with misbehaving chips (which also cause the hashrate drop). Hard shutdowns are much preferred to fix chip problems, as as you experienced a soft reset just tends to drop the entire board out. |
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Hello all, I've been following this thread since page 40 and I need your help.
I bought an Antminer C1 a couple of weeks ago and after changing it to a new location and internet I'm still trying to access it through 192.168.1.99. I had already set it to DHCP at my previous location and it worked fine; it mined for about 20hours.
Here at the new location at first I could see that my router had assigned 192.168.1.101 to the Antminer so I was able to access it through that direction but it wouldn't mine; so I changed it to Static (without writing ANYTHING, no numbers at all on the spaces below "Static") and clicked "Save and Apply" in order to change it again to DHCP afterwards hoping that it would reset the connection of DHCP and star mining.
After that I've been unable to find it using 192.168.1.99 nor 192.168.1.101 (previously assigned) and I have even tried 192.168.1.199 but nothing works. I downloaded a program to scan every device on the net and see its direction but the Antminer does not appear listed. I've also tried to connect to the miner directly with an ethernet cable to my PC but it can't find anything at 192.168.1.99. (even changing the 192.168.1.1 thing on control panel and the properties blabla) I've tried to reset it using the button on top of the ethernet connection but it seems NOT to work, I've tried many times with 3s, 5s, 10s, even 90seconds and nothing, it does not even produce a sound or change of light.
What can I do to connect to my miner?? I would greatly appreciate any help you could provide me, thank you very much in advance.
Currently you won't find the C1 anywhere as its not got a static IP entered. First step is trying the reset button until you see ethernet flashing (and then it will go back to 192.168.1.99). If that doesn't work, open the case and the SD card. Download SD card imager and use it to flash the backup SD card image I put up in post #2. Once you're back and able to connect, please post screenshots of the configuration and status pages and we'll get you sorted out. DHCP is much preferred as it eliminates a whole set of potential problems. |
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I believe 2 of my pumps are starting to fail. They are making a kind of a rubbing sound and I don't think they are pushing the coolant through as much as they should, hence the higher temps. If I have to buy cooling parts all the time for this miner, I'll never break even. It is very unfortunate that the miners seem to be doing just fine, but all the cooling packages are failing or having troubles. It is quite frustrating! I'd love to buy all EK pumps, but spending $100 on each pump just doesn't make sense since the whole miner cost a little over $300.
One EK pump would do 2x C1s easily, potentially more if you want. I still feel the cheapest method is RMA via syscooling as you can purchase additional spare fans for next to nothing compared to local pumps. You could probably get 5 spare pumps for half the price of an EK. |
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it might be the fans fault.. ive had case fans in my pc that show up as spinning really fast on the motherboard sensor.. i replaced the fan and the speed shows correct..
also, id set your diff to 512.. and your hwe% is really high.. its causing your rejects to be high.. plus best share of 0 after 5 hours?
you might get more share rate if you set your diff to 512, and lower your speed to the 237.5 setting.
more shares = higher payout
HW % is fine, as is anything under a few %. Diff isn't an issue on S3s, and best share has never worked. That's also not how it works for shares, everything goes back to calculating at diff 1 otherwise it wouldn't make any sense. If you double the difficulty, you're also going to be doubling the solve time. |
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I just got one of these, was on sale at Newegg! I got the T-110s silent version. The fan in the top rear of the unit is not spinning, I think I may have to send it back  Think these miners can run in below freezing temperatures with the water cooling? It won't spin unless cgminer is actively mining on Hashfast boards usually, depends how they set up their boards. If you mean its never running at all, then you can open it up and see if you can trace the wire. It might just be slightly loose etc. If you're sure the fan is dead, you can replace it with a near match for ~$15. Up to you if you want to go through the hassle of an RMA. |
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