What is being auctioned? Why?Non intrusive ad space in my setup guides is being publicly auctioned. I work for the community full time and am not funded by the community. Donations have not exceeded $100 in total this year and so I have to find a way to keep the guides sustainable and FREE for the average consumer. Selling ad space is one such trial.
Ad Format- Leaderboard style (728x90px), static images (jpg, gif, png), non annoying colors.
- Ads may not misrepresent, lie, be inappropriate, be (or link to) NSFW content. I reserve the right to reject ads for other reasons or remove ads even after they have been accepted.
- There are 5 ad slots for sale. One slot will be placed after sections 2, 4 and 6 in all the guides listed at the bottom of the post.
- I will randomise which ad is placed in which slot on each guide so each slot receives the same impressions.
- The ads last at least 10 days starting from when they are put up. Traffic is expected to be 14,000 impressions per slot over the period.
- This traffic is exceptionally targeted to the hardware subforum, and more specifically to those who have either bought or are looking to buy miners.
Auction Format- Auction will run for approximately 10 days, to end at midnight London time / 3PM PDT / 6PM EDT on Monday 9th February.
- Post your bids in this thread. Prices must be stated in BTC per slot. You must state the max number of slots you want.
- The notation "2 @ 0.20" means 2 slots for BTC 0.20 each. Not 2 slots for 0.20 BTC total.
- If two people bid at the same price, the person who bid first will have his slots filled first.
- Bidding starts at BTC 0.20. All bid prices must be evenly divisible by BTC 0.05.
I reserve the right to reject bids, even days after the bid is made. In particular, bids from people with less than 15 activity points are likely to be rejected. I recommend not getting into a bidding war with someone who has less than 15 activity points, as their bids might not be accepted, but your latest bids will still stand. If you need to know right away whether someone's bids will be accepted, PM me. You must pay for your slots within 24 hours of receiving the payment address otherwise your slots may be sold to someone else. I will send you the payment information via forum PM from this account ("dogie", user ID 87869). You might receive false payment information from scammers pretending to be me. They might even have somewhat similar usernames. Be careful.
TaxesThere is only tax due to EU and UK bidders, and there is no additional cost to anyone (apart from me). Just clarifying to making sure its a level playing field while also collecting any legally required taxes. US and rest of world - bid as normal, no VAT.Non VAT registered UK - bid as normal, I will pay 20% VAT and take the hit. Non VAT registered EU - bid as normal, I will pay your VAT and take the hit. VAT registered UK businesses - will be invoiced an additional 20% VAT on bid prices. VAT registered EU businesses - bid as normal, please let me know your VAT registration number.
Dogie's Miner Setup Guides:.Dogie's USB Setup Guides:.Dogie's General Guides:
tldr for getting started:- Starting bid is BTC 0.20 per slot, bid increment is BTC 0.05.
- 5 slots being sold
- Bid using "slots @ price each" notation (3 @ 0.20 means 3 slots @ BTC 0.20 each)
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They won't necessarily accept returns directly from someone who isn't their customer, as its possible for people to cause problems. For example if a user sends an S5 to Bitmain, but they purchased from a reseller. Bitmain says they will refund the item, the reseller says "nope" and ignores everyone.
Tldr if you're purchasing from a regional reseller, contact them if someone goes wrong with that sale. It becomes far too complicated when trying to make it a 3 way transaction.
No one is trying to buy from a re-seller and return to Bitmain for a refund! I didn't say they were, but look at the problems some of these resellers put up as soon as you try and return anything. Bitmain can't force external companies to do anything, so can't get involved with what is essentially a 3rd party dispute. If you purchase from a reseller, your contract and sale is with the reseller. |
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I read that article also. My next coolant I'm buying will be one that works with all metals and is all premixed, since apparently no one can even confirm what the radiator is. I thought Dogie, the paid rep here would know, but he just speculated.
I am not a representative of syscooling. I gave you my opinion, as the official listings have mentioned both options previously. This is not speculation, I've also asked the rep to come here and answer. And over a dozen liquid cooling websites I've been on, they all say distilled water with silver shards in the tubes have always been a fantastic coolant method. I said that before but Dogie said distilled water isn't really a good idea, but his recommendation in the first post was a bottle of ironside coolant which is distilled water. I can never believe or trust a paid rep. Of course they're biased.
The tin foil is strong in this one. For what reason would I be recommending you something I thought was bad? What on earth could I be biased towards with a coolant recommendation?? |
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Just received my New R-Box and very puzzling thing happens when I try to power it up, I have tried 3 different PSUs and when I turn them on I get nothing from the R-box and in all 3 cases the PSU dies instantly when I plug the Miner in hot. I suspect there is something wired wrong in the New R-Box but before i go rooting around in it I thought I would see if anyone else has had this issue. Thanks in advance.
Probably worth opening it up and having a look. What power supplies were you using? I have a CoolerMaster 460W, Solid Gear 400W, and also tried an Ultra 650W. The CoolerMaster and Ultra were in machines with mother boards and the Solid Gear i jumpered the pin-out as instructed in your guide. I did go ahead and open it up and outside of one dollop of white conduct paste on the pins of the Power connection (cleaned off, tried power up again with no success) there does not seem to be any errant solder. any sort of voltmeter/ohmmeter tests I should try on the New R-box? or is it DOA? It seems unlikely that it would be DOA, these are pretty simply machines but I have nothing other to suggest. |
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 We don't need a preannouncement to a guide, just post it when there's actually some content here. |
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I thought smf fixed the avatar exploit a while back and/or it was permission issues.
It's been a minute since I managed smf so *shrug*
either way with this many users, I'm sure avatars would just be an added resource hog in more ways than one.
Being fixed and being 100% secure are two different things. This forum is targeted probably like no other SMF forum out there and so has to be robust. |
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IS anyone familiar with which chain # relates to which set of asics physically inside the unit?
ie. where is chain 1 physically in the unit? etc for 2,3,4?
2 1 PSU 4 3 As looking from front or back? |
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Its the other way around, there are 10,000s of U3s out there and only a handful of complaints. There are more problems then Bitmain would like but its not as doomsday as you're portraying. OK, so why won't anyone here post claiming that they don't have a complaint with theirs? Because that's just not how things work... |
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I was on 8125 for the voltage. I changed it to 8000.
Just to clarify, if you've got a 4.1 unit with latest firmware then its got an autovoltage setting. If you leave that on and manually change the voltage, its very likely still going to end up at the same final voltage - which is the lowest each mini module (5 per module, 10 per unit) can get to without chips dropping out. |
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The "search" is disabled right now. Otherwise, I'm sure I could find the answer to this question:
One of my fan blades on the back of an S4 popped out of its socket. The metal axel is still connected to the fan blade(s) [propeller; whatever you want to call it]. The fan's axel simply came out on it's own from the housing and rested against one of the blades (circuit boards). I took off the lid to see it like this. I put the axel back in the hole in the center of the housing and pressed but it seem to not want to stay in there. Will it click if I press harder? I don't want to break the thing.
Will I need to buy another fan? If so, what fan do I get? Since I bought my S4's the end of November, is it still under warranty to get a replacement fan from BITMAIN?
There's no saving that, its how these fans usually fail unfortunately. If you're out of warranty, the cheapest option is to pick up an SP120 fan, twin pack is cheaper. [ With affiliate link] [Without affiliate link]. If it was a front fan (intake) fan that failed you can swap it out directly. If it was a rear fan, swap one of the working front fans to the rear and put this fan in the front. The rear fans do most of the work so the front ones can be run quite a bit slower without any cooling impact. I sent yoshi an email. I'm about to send bitmainwarranty a PM shortly. Here are some pictures. [I dusted the thing out before putting it back to mining. The temps are okay still; but higher than the other S4's]. Please only use one contact method, if you've already contacted Yoshi then let him sort it. In the future though, contact BitmainWarranty as its their sole job to help customers, so usually act quicker. |
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At the risk of asking a stupid question can someone please explain the following:
I have purchased 4 S2 units and flashed the firmware to the most current version. On the miner status tab there are some terms I am not really sure of and would like an explanation. I checked the manual and search online but couldn't find anything.
1) What is the Diff1#, DiffA#, DiffR# and DiffS# ?
2) Also, in these columns there is a % in the HW row. Which percentage should I be concerned with about and what is a reasonable percentage?
NOTE: This may have been covered in a previous post but the forum search is down so I couldn't check without reading all 255 pages.
Thanks,
Michael
Diff1 is how many shares submitted by the miner to the pool, in terms of difficulty 1 shares. DiffA is how many of those were accepted. DiffR is how many of those were rejected. DiffS is how many of those were stale [submitted for a previous block, when the network has changed blocks.] |
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Just received my New R-Box and very puzzling thing happens when I try to power it up, I have tried 3 different PSUs and when I turn them on I get nothing from the R-box and in all 3 cases the PSU dies instantly when I plug the Miner in hot. I suspect there is something wired wrong in the New R-Box but before i go rooting around in it I thought I would see if anyone else has had this issue. Thanks in advance.
Probably worth opening it up and having a look. What power supplies were you using? |
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Haven't ordered from them recently. Last time was when the S1's were out. At that time they were very responsive and communicated well with any concerns. They can't take the hit for BlackArrows f up, being a small new company I'm sure they had to use their own funds to please customers when BA didn't ship. That said they are invested in these forums actively and that's good enough for me. Place a small order and see for yourself. @ Thomas_s - do wish your website was kept up to date, notice old hardware lingering around with marked up prices from time to time.
Being small is not an excuse for breaking consumer law. When they ventured to profit from those transactions, they were also contracting themselves to customers. What happens in the sale between minersource and blackarrow has no bearing what so ever on the sales between customers and minersource. |
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The caps might have blown up, but it's unlikely they were the cause of the fault. Unless they're cheap knock-offs, those SP-Caps are all rated to a working voltage of at least 105C (some are 125C) and they'll survive higher than that. What they don't like is an overvoltage situation. Those specific ones are rated to 6.3V, but if something happened where the full 12V (or most if it) was across that chip and cap, it would look very similar to that.
Assuming it was not done on purpose and it was done on a standard freq of 350 this could mean the s-5 has the same problems Asic Miner prismas had. Runaway thermals. Time will tell if it is the case or if this is a rare case. So far 1 person has had the problem. Thousands have been sold. So 1/2000 popped a pair of caps. Pretty safe we have seen more then 1 burned sp20.
To me it seems strange, that a board failure is SO rare on the 10,000s of units out there, yet TWO happen on the same unit simultaneously. Statistically that just isn't possible, there must be something environmental influencing the situation - whether its the fan was changed out, someone tried pushing an overclock too far etc etc. The warped plastic panels also don't appear to make sense, there is no reason why the air on those panels would get anywhere near the 105C or so to melt them. My personal opinion is we're not getting the full story, but its not up to me to decide. PM BitmainWarranty to arrange an RMA. Be sure to link to your post describing the issues, what type and how many miners you wish to have repaired/replaced and your bitmaintech.com order number. |
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To add to this... Bitmain will NOT warranty a device that was not purchased directly from Bitmain or an authorized reseller (but they won't provide a list of authorized resellers, as far as I can see). This policy is not made clear anywhere that I have seen, but Bitmain expects retail vendors (re-sellers) to take returns and then pursue warranty service with the re-seller rather than individual buyers. Also, Bitmain will tell you to do a credit card chargeback if the vendor will not handle an RMA for you, regardless of whether or not they ever claimed they would.
They won't necessarily accept returns directly from someone who isn't their customer, as its possible for people to cause problems. For example if a user sends an S5 to Bitmain, but they purchased from a reseller. Bitmain says they will refund the item, the reseller says "nope" and ignores everyone. Tldr if you're purchasing from a regional reseller, contact them if someone goes wrong with that sale. It becomes far too complicated when trying to make it a 3 way transaction. |
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1219 (the fixed version of 1024) is below Download link is here. Rolls back to the last good patch in Oct (1024), but fixes voltage adjustment and the important reset button. MD5: 7DF1B12D28B25E10AAC37E2EAFC7397B [This is 1219 = 19th Dec 2014 firmware] And 1024 is rehosted on mega here. Couldn't find the MD5 though. |
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So Dogie, did you get an answer from Bitmain why the option to buy five U3s is gone?  Not yet unfortunately, a lot of people were travelling this week so there's a few things in stasis. Hopefully back to normal on Monday. |
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Dogie claims there are 1000's running just fine but no one will post to claim they have one of them.
Its the other way around, there are 10,000s of U3s out there and only a handful of complaints. There are more problems then Bitmain would like but its not as doomsday as you're portraying. Clearly they released the U3 without testing it. This is obvious because there was no CGMiner support for it when I first got mine and I had to wait a few weeks for CK to work his magic. But even his magic can't polish this turd.
There was no mainstream cgminer support, Bitmain releases and maintains its own cgminer branch which was published before release. My thoughts: Bitmain needs to replace every U3 out there with their tested, fully functional next-gen U3. I have 1 Rockminer R-Box. This thing is solid. It just works.
You should test without the R-box (assuming you mean new R-box?) Its known to conflict with U3s as they both use the same ID chip. |
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Bought everything as a kit. I called the Colorado support facility and the guy said all he can do is have me ship my entire system over to them and they will find out what is wrong with it and fix, no matter what it is. So I lose a couple weeks mining, big deal, and have to pay to ship that and my cooling system to Colorado. Hey, at least their willing to help. What's BitmainWarranty going to do? They would have probably told me to do the same thing. Only thing that bothers me is having to pay shipping for an in warranty product. I'll remember that next time when wave of new hardware comes a along. Other companies provide you shipping labels.
WHAT IS OUR RADIATOR MADE OUT OF? THE ONE THAT CAME WITH THE KIT? ALUMINUM OR COPPER?
[BitmainWarranty is the Denver, Colorado centre, calling in is just a quicker way to contact them]. I think it is the best solution to return it now, as whatever stuff is growing in that loop will be all up inside those blocks as well. I'm here to see if we can help people remotely without having to ship stuff across a country / continent as then everyone loses out. They usually do provide labels but I guess its a bit of a confusing situation for them - let me know after its all completed if you're still out of pocket and I'll try and get it sorted. My guess is copper. They have always been very careful to say to use coolant not water. That and it looks a copper "PD360" on their site we got: http://www.syscooling.com/products/Radiators/54.html . The two aluminum radiator's they show selling are much smaller then the one with kit. I could be wrong if they used a specialty one for miners, but I'm highly guessing its their standard. Yes, you have to assume its copper or there are copper components. In several points in the listings (all changed by now) there has been a mention of copper on both the radiator and the fittings [internal coating]. You can see within the chamber of the radiator that there is definitely some form of dark orange coating, which may be brass or copper. So tldr, be safe and assume there is copper and aluminium within the same loop. Just so we know and question can be answered completely are you able to confirm with syscooling that it is their copper version that is used for the kit? Thank you in advance. I've summoned them here via PM. |
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