Neptunes are down to 787/1500
KNC details say only 1200 will be sold this batch.
Leaving 487 units up for grabs.
I don't think that number reflect how many Neptunes are available  |
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Yep, if you are siting on usd hoping to withdraw, it makes a lot of sense to buy bitcoins and transfer to bitstamp or any other site with similar price. If you have euro and are in europe, I am not sure it's worth the risk, but might be. This picture shows very good how the prices are now about the same. https://i.imgur.com/UVQKZ5dl.pngWhat website is this graphic from? |
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Nice! You should sell these. I for one would buy.
I am no professional carpenter, so it takes me a considerable amount of time to make one of these  Better to give you the plans and help you build it yourself
Hi CYPER,
very nice, what material are you planning to build them with? Timber, MDF?
and also, what are you using to draw/design these 3D animated images? Does the drawing package create the video?
I'd love to have a go at the drawing thingy you're using. Very cool.
Thanks.
18mm MDF. Total surface area both sides is around 9 sq.m and total weight is 60kg. Shelves are 60cm by 60cm and total height is around 1.40m. Each compartment is 21cm high. Sketchup is the program - never used it in my life and after 2-3 hours this is what I made. Very intuitive and easy to use Yes, it makes and exports the video. That program looks like Sketchup. Pretty easy to use, i like it.
Yes, it is so easy to use. I love it  |
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What is your asking price?
Around 18BTC at the time of writing. If you are interested please let me know so I can arrange a meeting |
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I really think the metal shields inside the unit need to go. The beagleboard shouldn't get hot at all, I've run those things stuffed into little plastic enclosures in my car dashboard and never had one overheat. The shield in the back makes even less sense. Cyper, any update on what you are doing to manage temps?
Miner in between 2 open windows + Open case + side fan. I'm currently building this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_F83SbHMygSo when it is ready I will have to move all the units to it and do something about the overheating board. |
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This is my KNC Mercury happily hashing away at 143GH, 91C. Notice the custom book-based thermostats and mandatory thermal "overlay insulator"[/color][/size]. The PSU is stuffed in there to get the temperature up, the beaglebone fans are OFF, main unit fan is ON. Its stable and it works, though. Dunno for how long, realistically.  you can put a sausage on a stick 1 feet above the miner. Sooner or later it will cook if you know what I mean  |
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ASIC miners are not "consumer products". They are cutting edge bitcoin mining hardware. When I start seeing them on display at Target, that's when we can start demanding properly working devices, lol.
Btw, do you have any other ASIC miners? They all have their quirks and often require babysitting. Although I do have to say that my ASICMiner Blades and BFL Singles pretty much hash away with very little attention.
I don't know what god forbidden outlawed country you live in, but here in Europe we have consumer and business laws and according to these one is fully entitled to expect a properly working device regardless of the price paid. I don't find it normal to fix a product that I paid 5K for. |
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you can either drop the fans to the crossbar like I showed here (44c in a 75f room with a top fan facing down)
I will move it at the front and drop the fan next time I switch them off, which will be soon as I am currently building a special cabinet for them. I have a feeling that front metal wall is not helping, but rather stopping the fresh air to the back heatsinks. |
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Been lurking for a while, but wanted to share some Nov Jupiter experience in case it helps someone. I have a Mercury and received a Nov Jupiter last night. I had the Mercury on a "Rosewill 650W 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Power Supply Hive-650" and bought a "XFX PRO1000W" for the Jupiter. However, the XFX would shutoff after a couple minutes when running the Jupiter. The solution I found that worked was to plug an extra PCI-E cable from the Rosewill into one of the ASIC boards on the Jupiter. This has kept me happily hashing on the P2Pool at close to 800GH/s ever since. I am not a hardware guy, so I'm not sure what's going on. I assume the 1000W wasn't enough for the Jupiter, but that doesn't sound right given what everyone else is writing. FWIW, the fans were all attached on the Jupiter when I received it. The box was shredded, but the miner was in much better condition than the Mercury. Close to 800GH/s? Care to post a screenshot of CGMiner average speed? Just for comparison - my 2 November Jupiters are eating 1770W from the wall with a peak of almost 2000W. |
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Front side has the pretty blinking lights. Either way, it's a lot of air moving that direction. To overpower it, you would need to install two more large fans on the back. If you are actually having a cooling problem, give it a try.
Strange, the back of my case has the blinky lights. I didn't get instructions to which end was the front and back. It's all relative. I've positions my miner with the air intake side towards the back of the room. The exhaust side blows the hot air out in to the room. Apparently everyone is doing the opposite. But it should be obvious by my previous explanations that I have NOT doubled up the fans on the intake side or "front" of the case. I merely placed fans in the case where there were none... the exhaust side or "back" of the case. I had that same idea long before anyone received any miners, but then dropped it. Might get some cheap 140mm fans and do it after all. Throw in a fan controller too. |
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Hey Cypher... You can actually lower the cooling tower fan, the top of the plastic holder case will easily slide in between the fins, and it will cool dramatically better..... the lower you put it, the better it will cool
I remember reading about this trick before in this thread. I will try next time I move them. Is the heatspreader of the chip still flat? If the cooler was actually damaged while mounted, its reasonable to assume the flimsy alu heatspreader got dented or slightly bent too. Its even possible the heatspreader is no longer making proper contact with (all) the dies. I once had that with an AMD CPU, no matter what cooler I put on it, it would overheat, badly. removing the alu heatspreader solved that. Not sure Id be so brave with such an expensive miner where there are 4 seperate dies under the heatspreader, but I wouldnt mind seeing the pics if you decide to try The top of the ASIC chip looks completely flat with no damage. It was the heatsink base that was damaged as each pipe was on a slighty different level, so the total surface wasn't flat. I changed it with a brand new heatsink and temps didn't improve, but I think the problem might be the spacers as suggested below. Some of the spacers between the aluminum bar and the board prevent the heatsink from making good contact with the chip. If you twist the heat sink from the top and it moves easily, then it is too loose. I had to remove the spacers on a couple of boards that were hot. Just make sure you don't over-tighten the screws once the spacers are removed.
When I twist it it moves but for a different reason: the screws that go through the custom made plank and the original plank are smaller than the holes, so there is a slight horizontal wobble. Next time I switch it off I will remove the spacer or put shorter ones (plastic ones that came with the heatsink). Cyper, I don't think blowing across the unit will make a big difference if you close the case. Right now you are bringing fresh air onto that board. Why don't you just strap that fan onto the heatsink on the open side working with the other fan, or switch the location of that board to one of the front slots where they get cold air from the big fans on the front. Otherwise, you could always cut a big hole on the side of the case and mount it properly.
Exactly. If I close the case the back of the side fan will be next to the inside of the aluminium panel, so not enough room to gasp for fresh air. Do you mean to create a push pull configuration? From what I see the chip heatspeader doesn't get adequately cooled - probably because of poor contact with the heatsink base or maybe it is way too hot. I will try all the tricks mentioned here and report back. |
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After I added the additional side fan to the "hot as the surface of the sun" die now it is getting adequately cooled, but the fan is just standing there not secured in any way and I can't even put the lid on.   Whats it cooling there? Maybe its another duff Arctic Cooler on that one? Mine runs hotter than my October Jupiter as well. HW Status
ASIC slot #1 58.5 ℃
ASIC slot #2 -
ASIC slot #3 70.0 ℃
ASIC slot #4 75.0 ℃
ASIC slot #5 57.5 ℃
ASIC slot #6 -It is cooling the ASIC chip. With the fan - 63 Without the fan - 85 I changed the original heatsink/cooler as it was damaged during transit (the flat copper base was no longer flat), but even with the new heatsink temps still reach 86. |
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After I added the additional side fan to the "hot as the surface of the sun" die now it is getting adequately cooled, but the fan is just standing there not secured in any way and I can't even put the lid on. |
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Bitparking Merged Mining pool is having more and more trouble with variance. If the Bitcoin diff keeps going up like this and Bitparking doesn't magically double its hashrate all out of a sudden, and keeps doubling it, the pool will face some very difficult times - meaning people will join larger pools with lower variance, potentially the end of the merged mining game, and oh - ixcoin.
Ghash.io is mining IXC |
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So changed the damaged heatsink with a new one and guess what - temperature still reaching 86 degress. I added a side fan to blow on the chip and temp dropped down to 62.5. From the 2 November Jupiters hashing at full speed these are the temps from all 8 modules:   Mind you the 62.5 degrees is low because of the side fan I added, otherwise it is 85-86. Can anyone give a valid reason why there is such big difference in temps (from 36 to 86). Voltage alone cannot create such a wide range, can it? Also I don't know how accurate Bertmod is with the 0.99-E firmware, but it shows a FAULT with one of the VRMS on the hot boards and don't this this it is a coincidence:  I am not impressed. |
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I didn't flash anything, it never worked from the first power on. I did try reflashing the Nov 0.99e firmware but no change. The one thing that makes the convinces it is just a bad controller is it does not save any setting after a reboot or power loss. For example enable ssh, able to ssh in (w/ no ASICs connected), reboot, not able to ssh in, check gui and enable ssh is unchecked.
I went ahead an put in an RMA but I have a bad feeling KNC is going to make me ship the entire damn this back rather than just ship a new controller.
Here would be a perfect time for KNC to step and allow the customer to put down a refundable deposit on the component the customer needs and advance ship the part. The customer would have the part in 2 business days, rather than 4-5 days between waiting for the part to be shipped back, testing and re-shipping. How about it, bitcoinorama? That has been discussed before and everytime the answer is: we can't change procedure. I said it before and I will say it again: If you want someting done you find a way, if you don't, you find an excuse. |
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CYPHER
Now I understand your agressive inverse trolling recently.
(engage a troll and 'you are what you resent')
I wonder if you got the unit pheonix 'twisted' the cooler on.
Remember that amazing 'fix' ?
I don't know what you are implying, but I am completely happy with my dealings with Phoenix. He is a good and honest guy The Jupiter was for a friend of mine and he paid 12BTC for it, while the single "dead die" board was 1BTC extra of which I paid 0.5BTC to my friend as a gift for finding him the deal And Phoenix was kind enough to throw the controller board + beaglebone for free and spent a considerable sum for proper packaging and shipping. I wish KNC packaged their miners as good as Phoenix did (not that it will prevent UPS from playing rugby with the boxes). And the board was running great for 2 days with all 4 dies hashing, until today when I had to turn some miners off to switch some PSUs around. Now one of the dies is dead. for which I was well informed by Phoenix |
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Does anyone know what the typical support e-mail reply time is nowadays? I had a nice fireworks display on one of my Oct. Jupiter's when upgrading PSUs and haven't heard anything from them for a couple of days now aside from the auto reply. Just curious how long it will take to issue RMA.
What the bloody did you do? All you have to do is swap cables. And that is precisely what i did. I was going from a Coolermaster v1000 to a nice Corsair AX1200 gold. Brand new out of the box never used, plug it all in, hit the switch and poof.......Fire! That was my good Jupiter too.  Here is the aftermath.  For this reason I think the plugs having both a jumper and a power resistor to the 3v line are a very good bet. I know you followed instructions, but did you put in the jumper then fire up the supply and check that the voltage was there on the 12V, then shut down the supply, plug the power supply into the Jupiter, then switch on the supply? If my theory that the current ramp, preventing current surge producing a voltage spike sufficient to blow the caps, the current ramp to ramp up current on the 12V line is actually controlled by a voltage ramp of 0 to 1V produced on the 3.3V line (because the 3.3V will be up to regulated voltage before the 5V or 12V) then putting in the jumper, turning on the supply to check if the jumper is correct and voltage being supplied, then shut down before plugging into Jupiter, since the supply expects that it is plugged into a motherboard having a load on the 3.3V line, it expects that when the supply is turned off the 3.3V line filter capacitors will drain out thru the motherboard. That can't happen without a motherboard or a resistor to ground from the 3.3V line as well as the jumper. So, if you check the jumper was correctly placed by looking for 12V on the 12V line, then shut down, plugged the supply into the Jupiter, and turned it on, the supply 3.3V line never drained and still had full voltage on its filter caps and the timed ramp voltage that controlled the ramp for the 12v current had remained at max, as if already having timed out its ramp, and BANG, instant max current. So how can one prevent this from happening? Shut down the PSU from the switch at the back, unplug from the socket and then remove and insert the jumper a couple of times to discharge everything? |
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Could you use the flat bar (on the processor side) and the integrated bracket that came unglued to make a sandwich around the heatpipes? Then use a c-clamp or locking pliers (vise-grips) to squeeze all four pipes back into proper alignment?
Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol
or you could just buy a new one. to easy.. job done That's crazy talk, man! Just too damn easy for these hardy young DIYers  He could save a couple bucks if he doesn't cook this expensive piece of almost irreplaceable electronic equipment Lol Actually I already ordered one for the damaged that came from Phoenix. I will try to fix the November damaged cooler and if I don't success I will order another one. |
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