Sixth alt coin thread I forgot to mod last thread.

[GabryRox]

Hey everyone... anyone here currently or recently mined AEON?  With the recent price jump over past few days, it is now approaching XMR as the top profitable coin to mine.  However, I've been trying to figure out what the best GPU miner is to use for it and seem to find a lot of conflicting/lack of info.

Looks like aeon-pool.com might be the best pool but if anyone could recommend and link a good GPU miner for this it would be appreciated.  I originally thought that maybe Claymore's Cryptonight miner that I am using to mine XMR could also mine AEON, but I don't see it mentioned in any of the threads or pool pages, so it seems maybe it won't work, maybe due to the "light" designation on the AEON algo.

Anyway, any info would be appreciated. If this coin has 1 or 2 more good days and can hold it, seems it could become the most profitable coin to mine, at least with Radeon GPUs.

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[crazydane]

Here's my latest rig.  $15 worth of 3/4" x 3/4" x 36" "dowels" from Home Depot, and a $8 36" wide shelf that is 12" deep.







I know a lot of you don't like risers, but I have been very pleased with the 007 versions and powering them directly from the PSU via a 6-pin VGA plug.  I have also not had any issues with using M.2 adapters, you just have to be very careful to center it in the slot.

[rs1x]

I know this is an awful question but where can I get my hand on some asics at cost ?

[philipma1957]

I know this is an awful question but where can I get my hand on some asics at cost ?

I simply will say why would anyone sell you an asic at cost?

Bitmain was selling the s-9 today for about 1335 shipped to the USA .

Pay in bcc only.

The miner will mine btc or bcc.

I do not know of any other asic at cost.

[Marvell2]

Got the fans in and working on getting them installed in the next few days.  Each one is 1500 CFM uses 285 watts at max
so I will put them all on a 20 amp breaker.  FOund a local handy man with roofing experince to help  he seems to know his stuff
we got half of them done today.  Will finish the reset tomorw.  

He was right in saying just having the vents installed would help alot with the heat build up withoute even powering them up yet.
Its insane we went from 106 degrees in the garage to 93 with just the first three vents installed, we dont even have the power hooked up yet!!









all six , they are actually quite light


The gravity intake vents were too big for my roof, 26 inches , so I am returning those


gravity vent, its still in box so not great pictures



too big


underside of the gravity intake vent , no fan ?


Install time



working on first side




view from inside , how we managed to hit every single rafter I have no idea, I hope it does not affect the air flow too much but with
six fans I think we are ok.





These fans have humidistat and temp control, we are going to run the controlls for every fan down to where the switches for powering on and off each fan are so it is easier to access


pics of my small farm







TOP view


I'll update with more pics tomrow with the remaiing three vents on , we probbaly wont get to the electrical work till tuesday.

He is charging me $700 for all the work does that sound about right ?

I bought parts for electrical, breaker, conduit , 12-2 gauge wire and switches , replacement roofing slats and water proof paper and glue etc

cost $250.

I am also going to make in put screws down on all the vents not just glue like he wanted to do what do you think Phill ?

[Elder III]

I worked as a roofer for 3 years and in general contracting for a number of years after that. I would recommend screwing the roof vents (through the bottom flange) right into the plywood below the shingles --- use lots of roof sealant too of course ( I assume by Glue you meant that and not something like liquid nails?). https://www.grainger.com/product/5UFP4?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916684477!!!!91281356757!&ef_id=WYugCgAAA45Grdjt:20171001233511:s&kwid=productads-adid^50916684477-device^c-plaid^91281356757-sku^5UFP4-adType^PLA

[hammer24p]

you better tar top and side of vent, rafter are 3 foot from out side if you have a 12 inch overhang been a carpenter far 31 years

[Marvell2]

you better tar top and side of vent, rafter are 3 foot from out side if you have a 12 inch overhang been a carpenter far 31 years

Tar ? you have any recomendations for that ? all we got is glue , I dont think the garage roof was originally tarred





and what we call icepaper here since we are in a cold climate it prevents moisture and frost on the week
but this will go on top of the metal



screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed
I  guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?

[Marvell2]

I worked as a roofer for 3 years and in general contracting for a number of years after that. I would recommend screwing the roof vents (through the bottom flange) right into the plywood below the shingles --- use lots of roof sealant too of course ( I assume by Glue you meant that and not something like liquid nails?). https://www.grainger.com/product/5UFP4?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916684477!!!!91281356757!&ef_id=WYugCgAAA45Grdjt:20171001233511:s&kwid=productads-adid^50916684477-device^c-plaid^91281356757-sku^5UFP4-adType^PLA

@Elder III yup thats exactly what i bougt

[Elder III]

screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed
I  guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?

No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above.  That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it.

Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc...

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.html

[arielbit]

Anyways, I think focusing on the riserless mobos is better strategy moving forward. Save money on unreliable risers, better heat control and lessen OS compatibility issues.

I love the sound of eliminating risers if possible. Just the time saved troubleshooting the rig if it's acting up would be pretty valuable, even without the additional cost savings. I hope that somebody makes one with ample enough spacing to run a full 6-8 higher wattage GPUs, such as GTX 1080 Ti, Rx Vega etc.

i don't get what citronick is saying about "better heat control" but risers are important to make space between hot gpus, the closer they are together the hotter they get..

quality risers are good, most of my risers from late 2013 are still going strong. and add to that my 775 motherboards circa 2006-2007 that are paired with these risers are still working...

look at that very long motherboard and look at the capacitors in between pcie slots, if only one of them gets cooked you're gonna get some headaches.

You must have risers fashioned by jesus himself Ive had risers go bad all over the place , pretty much given up dual mining due to exploding risers or pcie slots connected to risers, It wasnt so bad with hawaii cards never had much issues withrisera on my 390 a s 290x builds unless the risers were doa, but with polaris and even Pascal it seems they can draw excessive amounts of power from the pcie slots , like spike or something which usualy overload tbe pcie connector or the sata part and fuse them.  

Honestly I think it has something to do with the die shrink from 28 to 16 and the power distribution circuits being poor
on this generation v

i'l share later pics of my old risers later when i get home.. and my new ones...forgot the versions..they did experienced eth dual mining but changed my strategy. i stopped dual mining eth, shifted to zec, undervolt a little(for some of my cards) and increased the number of my cards.

it maybe profitable dualmining eth but with increased number of cards profits level up too.

here is my old riser..



here is my new riser..



both are molex...old is ver. 3 new is ver. 6

[Marvell2]

screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed
I  guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?

No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above.  That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it.

Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc...

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.html

I see thanks for the tips.

I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue.  SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ?

Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ?

thanks again

[philipma1957]

screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed
I  guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?

No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above.  That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it.

Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc...

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.html

I see thanks for the tips.

I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue.  SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ?

Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ?

thanks again

I have 1 vent like that  I used 4 screws

I put down this under it

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-6-in-x-50-ft-Select-Window-and-Door-Flashing-Tape-1343003/206495170

then a thin layer of tar
then the vent with 4 screws
then the roll of flashing tape
then tar
then singles

it is more then 18 years old

3 hurricanes
winds gusted up to 95 in one of them

does not leak

I did have to replace the motor after 2 years the replacement  moter is  like 15-16 years old.

700 is a good price for his labor


do not worry about intake  my guess is  the garage  is not air tight and enough air will get in.

you kind of want a low intake  with a air filter on it

i will show an idea later

[Marvell2]

screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed
I  guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?

No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above.  That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it.

Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc...

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.html

I see thanks for the tips.

I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue.  SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ?

Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ?

thanks again

I have 1 vent like that  I used 4 screws

I put down this under it

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-6-in-x-50-ft-Select-Window-and-Door-Flashing-Tape-1343003/206495170

then a thin layer of tar
then the vent with 4 screws
then the roll of flashing tape
then tar
then singles

it is more then 18 years old

3 hurricanes
winds gusted up to 95 in one of them

does not leak

I did have to replace the motor after 2 years the replacement  moter is  like 15-16 years old.

700 is a good price for his labor


do not worry about intake  my guess is  the garage  is not air tight and enough air will get in.

you kind of want a low intake  with a air filter on it

i will show an idea later

Thanks @philipma1957 I will grab the flashing paper and the tar and 24 screws later today , the installer gets off work at 4pm and will head here directly so I will be ready
I already ordered the low gravity intake  , but I can return it if your Idea is better, I figured I could put a filter on the gravity intake after its installed

[hammer24p]

put some tar over the top of the screws

[philipma1957]

screws from the bottom seems a good idea but it will be hard to get up there because there are a ton of rafters up to criss crossed
I  guess we could but why is it different from screws from the roof side ?

No - screws down through the flange into the plywood from above.  That DAP roof sealant is good stuff, but it's meant to keep water out, not to really hold something in place. Depending on how wide the flange is you may end up putting some roofing nails through it anyways when you lay down the felt paper (ice paper) and shingles, but a few nails or flat head screws into it to hold it in place would be more then worth it.

Usually when someone says tar in reference to a roof it's what you would find as "roof cement" at your hardware store. It's good stuff and every house should have a bucket of it on hand for patching shingles, flashing, gutters, etc...

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-roof-cement-28831.html

I see thanks for the tips.

I though the same thing about the DAP stuff , no where on it does it say it is like a glue.  SO i still need to find some caulk or glue to keep the ventilator in place, could I just use the roof tar to glue down the vent AND the shingles ? after I put them on top of the ice paper ?

Or do you recommend another glue or caulk to hold the vent down before nails then ice paper ?

thanks again

I have 1 vent like that  I used 4 screws

I put down this under it

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-6-in-x-50-ft-Select-Window-and-Door-Flashing-Tape-1343003/206495170

then a thin layer of tar
then the vent with 4 screws
then the roll of flashing tape
then tar
then singles

it is more then 18 years old

3 hurricanes
winds gusted up to 95 in one of them

does not leak

I did have to replace the motor after 2 years the replacement  moter is  like 15-16 years old.

700 is a good price for his labor


do not worry about intake  my guess is  the garage  is not air tight and enough air will get in.

you kind of want a low intake  with a air filter on it

i will show an idea later

Thanks @philipma1957 I will grab the flashing paper and the tar and 24 screws later today , the installer gets off work at 4pm and will head here directly so I will be ready
I already ordered the low gravity intake  , but I can return it if your Idea is better, I figured I could put a filter on the gravity intake after its installed

my issue with the gravity intake is simple will you add duct work in the garage so the air goes really low to the ground?   if you do that  it will work well.

  gravity intake with an attached duct to the floor    >>>>> miners  >>>>>>> roof fans


the above will pull  air  from roof down a flex duct past a filter at the miners up to the roof


so how big is the gravity intake ?

here is a 20 inch flex duct

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-20-in-x-25-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-R8-Silver-Jacket-F8IFD20X300/302001685?


and a 16 inch flex duct
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-16-in-x-12-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-with-Metalized-Jacket-R8-FD-12R8-16/203393287?

attach the flex duct here


two intakes

[TheYankeesWin!]

i will show an idea later

Thanks @philipma1957 I will grab the flashing paper and the tar and 24 screws later today , the installer gets off work at 4pm and will head here directly so I will be ready
I already ordered the low gravity intake  , but I can return it if your Idea is better, I figured I could put a filter on the gravity intake after its installed

my issue with the gravity intake is simple will you add duct work in the garage so the air goes really low to the ground?   if you do that  it will work well.

  gravity intake with an attached duct to the floor    >>>>> miners  >>>>>>> roof fans


the above will pull  air  from roof down a flex duct past a filter at the miners up to the roof


so how big is the gravity intake ?

here is a 20 inch flex duct

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-20-in-x-25-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-R8-Silver-Jacket-F8IFD20X300/302001685?


and a 16 inch flex duct
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-Products-16-in-x-12-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-with-Metalized-Jacket-R8-FD-12R8-16/203393287?

attach the flex duct here


two intakes

Okay gravity intake attached to   the vents drops the cold air down  to the  floor.  The 3 soon to be six  exhaust fans pull the cold air at the miners then out the the garage.  Very nice.

Here is a cheap filter idea

cut to size

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Saint-Gobain-ADFORS-36-in-x-84-in-All-In-One-Screen-Repair-Kit-FCS9831-M/202091907

use two or three of these
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-10-in-Mini-Bungee-Cord-8-Pack-56052/206967355

[philipma1957]

Just added a water cooled 1070

 to my ryzen 1800 rig

running some skein  on it

and xmr with the cpu

this board is now maxed with 5 gpus and the cpu.

skein here
http://zpool.ca/?address=1JdC6Xg3ajT3rge3FgPNSYYFpmf53Vbtje


CryptoNight  here

https://www.nicehash.com/miner/146UJM5kgzLVUV23CXCf33KQKHckoX1gx3

[QuintLeo]

Here's my latest rig.  $15 worth of 3/4" x 3/4" x 36" "dowels" from Home Depot, and a $8 36" wide shelf that is 12" deep.

I know a lot of you don't like risers, but I have been very pleased with the 007 versions and powering them directly from the PSU via a 6-pin VGA plug.  I have also not had any issues with using M.2 adapters, you just have to be very careful to center it in the slot.

 Nice cooling on that, and isn't that one of those Delta server supplies powering it?

[QuintLeo]

These fans have humidistat and temp control, we are going to run the controlls for every fan down to where the switches for powering on and off each fan are so it is easier to access

 Definitely screw them into the boards they're being mounted to.

 Also, the humidity and temp SENSORS are in those boxes with the controls, are you sure you want to move them away from where the fans are at?
 Kind of a tradeoff if you do or if you don't, depending on where you DO mount them - right at the intake area for your miner shelves should work well.

 Gonna need more conduit though if you do move them, for core requirements - or some way to "hide" the wiring in the wall(s).

 A single 2x4 in the middle of the hole isn't going to affect airflow noticeably, shouldn't be an issue.
 Might have made sense to put a centering hole in from underneath FIRST though to avoid that.