philipma1957
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January 01, 2015, 07:52:34 PM |
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Thx guys, one cable end is fried, other 3 are slightly scorched.
shes running slightly better with offending cable removed, but the melted shroud is stuck inside the sp20 connector so i cant plug in another cable...
will have a proper fiddle later - 0230 here.
confusing as psu was pulling <900w while previously running MUCH higher watts without issue. (>1150w)
i'll upload pic in a minute. meh. you all know what scorched connectors look like
the melt was on the sp20 end? I sometimes see my last loops run higher watts. your last loop burned? let me show an example of what I mean the last loop pulls 165 or so the first 3 pull 135 or so. I get 1180gh but the high last loop does show on most of my 8 sp20's does it here also
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Epoch
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January 01, 2015, 08:10:06 PM |
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One of my SP30's started flashing a green LED on one of its PSU's; half of the ASICs were off. I power cycled the unit but the PSU came up flashing green right away.
Does anyone know what this means, what causes it, and how to get it back to normal? I'll leave the unit powered off for a bit to let it cool down before turning it on again.
Thanks in advance.
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Powell
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January 01, 2015, 09:10:43 PM |
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Edgar what brand PSU and cable size? Earlier this years I had a few Enermax 1000's (16awg wires) slowy start burning the cables up on my Jupiters. It did it a few times on OC and a few times on stock clocked Novembers. Every time though it was with the Enermax's. I caught most before any major damage, but I did have one melt the jumper when I was out of town for the weekend. Iunno esp since its not OC'ed and been flawless wonder if its manufacture error on the cable itself?
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klondike_bar
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January 01, 2015, 10:11:21 PM |
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@phil - yep sp20 end, #3 loop. but all look slightly toasted. and it wasnt OCd at all, been running fine since arrival.
still confused, but jet-lagged so cant think straight
@ epoch - from what i was told, flashing green = searching for IP/connection. usually lasts a few seconds (check ether cable?)
Perhaps your cable wasnt fully snug, little bit of a gap increasing resistance or w/e. Its a lot of power for a single connector so youve gotta make sure the wiring is thick and secure. depending how badlyt melted the socket is you can probably dig it out with a small-bladed flat-tip or melt it away with a soldering tip. (alternatively, spondoolies might RMA it for you - depends whether its just damage on the connector or if the PCB is also damaged in any way) @phil - not sure why your loop would be allowing itself to draw 160W+ when you have a limit set for 140W. is your FW up to date? Otherwise, re-enter and re-save your settings in case the issue is there. At 140W limit the device is supposed to settle in at 135W once its stable. @epoch. edgar is talking about either the front led or the SP20. If there is a blinking light on an SP3X PSU it means the supply tripped on overvoltage/current. Unplug the entire SP30 for about 10 minutes and then plug it back it. That should reset the PSU, and if the issue persists you might be looking at RMA through spondoolies
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Epoch
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January 01, 2015, 10:15:03 PM |
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@phil - yep sp20 end, #3 loop. but all look slightly toasted. and it wasnt OCd at all, been running fine since arrival.
still confused, but jet-lagged so cant think straight
@ epoch - from what i was told, flashing green = searching for IP/connection. usually lasts a few seconds (check ether cable?)
You might be thinking of the front LED; it isn't that one that's flashing. It's one of the rear LED's on one of the PSUs. Normally that PSU LED is on solid green; mine starting blinking and I don't know what that means ... it must mean something bad, since 1/2 of my SP30 stopped hashing ... I assume it is the half powered by that blinking PSU.
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DevonMiner
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January 01, 2015, 10:25:47 PM |
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You might be thinking of the front LED; it isn't that one that's flashing.
If a hard reset didn't work, then the PSU may well need replacing ... had this happen on a SP10 PSU a few months back, but if I remember correctly when they flash red, the PSU is usually dead.
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jtoomim
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January 01, 2015, 10:37:34 PM Last edit: January 02, 2015, 12:52:20 AM by jtoomim |
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possible causes?
im shattered but will checkin for support/opinions when i return from slumber
I have always seen this problem when ASICs get too cold. Some of our SP30s and SP31s generally start to show this problem when the intake air temperatures get below around 8°C or lower. Since the affected ASICs for you are the ones in the back, they'll be warmed by the ASICs in the front. I suggest you turn down the fan speed to 30, then let it run for about 30 minutes, then restart minergate. The slow fan speed will make the air temperature flowing across the back ASICs much warmer, which may get your back ASICs to run again. Once they are running, you can increase your fan speed again, though I would suggest leaving it a little lower (maybe 80) as long as your intake temperatures are low. What are your intake and exhaust temps? Edit: I read the rest of the thread. This is not a temperature issue. My bad.
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Guy Corem (OP)
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January 01, 2015, 11:59:14 PM |
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Thx guys, one cable end is fried, other 3 are slightly scorched. ...
Edgar, what PSU and cables did you use ? Can you ship them for inspection ?
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Biffa
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January 01, 2015, 11:59:33 PM |
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Edit: I read the rest of the thread. This is not a temperature issue. My bad.
Well it is a bit of a temperature issue, just the other type of temperature and in a very small localised area My good news tonight is that my SP31 just shut down and I can't get it looked at till tomorrow.
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Guy Corem (OP)
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January 02, 2015, 12:05:03 AM |
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Edit: I read the rest of the thread. This is not a temperature issue. My bad.
Well it is a bit of a temperature issue, just the other type of temperature and in a very small localised area My good news tonight is that my SP31 just shut down and I can't get it looked at till tomorrow. We're ready to assist ...
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Guy Corem (OP)
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January 02, 2015, 12:05:56 AM |
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@phil - yep sp20 end, #3 loop. but all look slightly toasted. and it wasnt OCd at all, been running fine since arrival.
still confused, but jet-lagged so cant think straight
@ epoch - from what i was told, flashing green = searching for IP/connection. usually lasts a few seconds (check ether cable?)
You might be thinking of the front LED; it isn't that one that's flashing. It's one of the rear LED's on one of the PSUs. Normally that PSU LED is on solid green; mine starting blinking and I don't know what that means ... it must mean something bad, since 1/2 of my SP30 stopped hashing ... I assume it is the half powered by that blinking PSU. Please contact support@ for technical diagnostic and PSU RMA if needed. Did you try switching the PSUs ?
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Biffa
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January 02, 2015, 12:08:19 AM |
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Edit: I read the rest of the thread. This is not a temperature issue. My bad.
Well it is a bit of a temperature issue, just the other type of temperature and in a very small localised area My good news tonight is that my SP31 just shut down and I can't get it looked at till tomorrow. We're ready to assist ... That you Guy? Hope someone just kicked the cable out or something. I could have got support to do an immediate call out but I've got a new firewall going into the rack tomorrow and everything is being moved around so it can wait. Hopefully nothing serious, otherwise I'll be taking you up on your offer
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Guy Corem (OP)
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January 02, 2015, 12:09:46 AM |
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Edit: I read the rest of the thread. This is not a temperature issue. My bad.
Well it is a bit of a temperature issue, just the other type of temperature and in a very small localised area My good news tonight is that my SP31 just shut down and I can't get it looked at till tomorrow. We're ready to assist ... That you Guy? Hope someone just kicked the cable out or something. I could have got support to do an immediate call out but I've got a new firewall going into the rack tomorrow and everything is being moved around so it can wait. Hopefully nothing serious, otherwise I'll be taking you up on your offer It's me, going to sleep ... You know Zvisha's Skype ...
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Epoch
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January 02, 2015, 12:55:20 AM |
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@phil - yep sp20 end, #3 loop. but all look slightly toasted. and it wasnt OCd at all, been running fine since arrival.
still confused, but jet-lagged so cant think straight
@ epoch - from what i was told, flashing green = searching for IP/connection. usually lasts a few seconds (check ether cable?)
You might be thinking of the front LED; it isn't that one that's flashing. It's one of the rear LED's on one of the PSUs. Normally that PSU LED is on solid green; mine starting blinking and I don't know what that means ... it must mean something bad, since 1/2 of my SP30 stopped hashing ... I assume it is the half powered by that blinking PSU. Please contact support@ for technical diagnostic and PSU RMA if needed. Did you try switching the PSUs ? It seems to be up and running again after letting it cool off a bit. I am curious to know what the green blinking LED on the PSU means, though.
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wh00per
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January 02, 2015, 01:58:04 AM |
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It seems to be up and running again after letting it cool off a bit. I am curious to know what the green blinking LED on the PSU means, though.
>> AC PRESENT, STBY ON, MAIN OUTPUT OFF see page 4. https://www.artesyn.com/power/assets/ds1200_ds_1219707774.pdf
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CSA/cUL Certified Power Distribution Panels - Basic, Switched, Metered. 1-3 phases. Up to 600V. NMC:N4F9qvHz11BHcc4nh1LCJFsrZhA1EWgVwj
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Epoch
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January 02, 2015, 02:04:25 AM |
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klondike_bar
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January 02, 2015, 02:57:18 AM |
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what almost certainly happened is the SP30 pushed the PSU just a tad too far and tripped the protection circuit. When that happens some power supplies need to be unplugged and left to cool for a few minutes before they can boot again
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raskul
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January 02, 2015, 03:20:29 AM |
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what almost certainly happened is the SP30 pushed the PSU just a tad too far and tripped the protection circuit. When that happens some power supplies need to be unplugged and left to cool for a few minutes before they can boot again sp20 has that built in also, it's called having a very safe miner.
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tips 1APp826DqjJBdsAeqpEstx6Q8hD4urac8a
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edgar
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January 02, 2015, 02:34:42 PM |
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Thx guys, one cable end is fried, other 3 are slightly scorched. ...
Edgar, what PSU and cables did you use ? Can you ship them for inspection ? Cooler master V850 that was running a november jupiter at 1150 for 12 months without hiccup. i can indeed send the damaged cable if you require it but i am confident it was an ever-so-slightly loose connection that has overheated after a month or so of use and a couple of power surges that knocked out various rigs at various times. i replaced the cable after scraping out the debris and am back at 1430-1510GH/s @ 940w the sockets of all 4 pcie slots on the sp20e look toasted but just that one is very bad dont really wanna RMA as i lost a fair few days of mining while i was away and now there's that spike in diff.
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MrTeal
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January 02, 2015, 03:33:06 PM |
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... regardless, i am 100% certain the cable was at fault, not the sp20e as it isn't even OCd.
upon replacement of the cable its back running at 1430-1510GH/s @ 940W
Temp Front / Back T,B 31 °C / 71,72 °C Fan Speed 90 Start Voltage 0.67 / 0.67 / 0.67 / 0.67 Max Voltage 0.7 Max Watts 215 / 215 / 215 / 215
Thank you for clarifying. How does the current limiting on the PCIe plugs work, BTW? I'm not at home to check, but I would assume that the two plugs are not simply paralleled on the hashing board and that each 12V plug powers two of the ASICs in a loop. IE, if you disabled a full loop on a hashing board you'd pull full power from one plug, and ~0W from the other. Is that correct?
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