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Author Topic: GekkoScience Compac BM1384 Stickminer Official Support Thread  (Read 265955 times)
justchill
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February 23, 2016, 02:08:27 PM
 #1641

Just one USB 3.0 HUB question. Ports can deliver more power (900mA)

But what if I connect a 3.0 USB hub to a GA-DA525 mini-itx motherboard that only has USB 2.0.

Will the USB 3.0 ports from the be able to deliver the higher 900mA current (instead of 500mA) ?

So still looking for a hub...
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February 23, 2016, 02:25:20 PM
 #1642

yes it will it uses the power from the hub not threw the computer...
the data is passed to the computer

the hub gets it power from the outlet at least that is how all the hubs ive seen used works

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February 23, 2016, 04:39:58 PM
 #1643

So I will get 900mA is what you say?

Another question: is there a possibility to mount the heatsink to the inside of a metal PC case for better dissipation?
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February 23, 2016, 04:50:37 PM
 #1644

you should get if your power supply for the hub can supply the 900 it should get it on each port

as for the heatsink's if i remember right if you mod the heatsink it voids warrenty... but that would be something to ask sidehack about

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February 23, 2016, 05:08:02 PM
 #1645

If you mod the heatsink and break it, repairing that break is not under warranty. Like the guy who bunged the 0.9V LDO when he put a big heatsink on it; he paid for the repair and shipping.

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February 23, 2016, 05:16:17 PM
 #1646

so you can mod the heatsink just have to be careful and not mess it up correct ? but if somebody changed the heatsink and put a new one on and something else happened not related to the heatsink then it would be covered ?

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February 23, 2016, 05:38:09 PM
 #1647

If you put a little tiny heatsink on it or run it without a fan and the chip fries, that's on you. But if it developed a problem that was not a result of having a different heatsink, or the owner doing something stupid, yeah it's probably covered.

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February 23, 2016, 09:32:34 PM
 #1648

I am preparing for the big contest - I understand I am voiding the warranty Grin - Is there a way to bypass the buck converter on the compac with the device below.  My specialty is cooling not components, any help would be appreciated.  I am going to do a little extreme cooling on it and want full control of the power  Shocked




If I need to hack up the compac then that is ok

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February 23, 2016, 09:59:27 PM
 #1649

I am preparing for the big contest - I understand I am voiding the warranty Grin - Is there a way to bypass the buck converter on the compac with the device below.  My specialty is cooling not components, any help would be appreciated.  I am going to do a little extreme cooling on it and want full control of the power  Shocked

If I need to hack up the compac then that is ok

The voltage output of that Buck is too high you need 0.6V to 0.8V maybee 0.9V if you are really pushing things.

The onboard buck is very good and well overspecked for a single BM1384. Other than reducing the series resistor on the pot to allow you to get to 0.8V and adding a voltmenter no need to do anything else.


Rich

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February 23, 2016, 10:23:32 PM
 #1650

If you want to push more than about 17A into the ASIC (note the S5 runs maybe 11A on stock settings) you should replace the inductor. But before you worry about that you'll probably be worrying about your USB jack.

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February 23, 2016, 11:11:15 PM
 #1651

I am preparing for the big contest - I understand I am voiding the warranty Grin - Is there a way to bypass the buck converter on the compac with the device below.  My specialty is cooling not components, any help would be appreciated.  I am going to do a little extreme cooling on it and want full control of the power  Shocked

If I need to hack up the compac then that is ok

The voltage output of that Buck is too high you need 0.6V to 0.8V maybee 0.9V if you are really pushing things.

The onboard buck is very good and well overspecked for a single BM1384. Other than reducing the series resistor on the pot to allow you to get to 0.8V and adding a voltmenter no need to do anything else.


Rich

Sorry, I posted the wrong picture.  The one I was looking at is adjustable down to 0.5 volts.  If there is no way to hack the external device in I will probably reduce the series resistor.  


If you want to push more than about 17A into the ASIC (note the S5 runs maybe 11A on stock settings) you should replace the inductor. But before you worry about that you'll probably be worrying about your USB jack.

And replace the inductor and hard wire the USB port Wink

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February 23, 2016, 11:21:55 PM
 #1652

The voltage output of that Buck is too high you need 0.6V to 0.8V maybee 0.9V if you are really pushing things.
Rich

Wanting to use DI/Alcohol for cooling and hoping to push the voltage up past 1 volt

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February 24, 2016, 02:27:56 AM
 #1653

thats cool looking from what i can see being i cant see it in high rez

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February 24, 2016, 02:35:52 AM
 #1654

Oh hey, cool. Say didn't someone start a separate thread for this?

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February 24, 2016, 04:15:45 AM
 #1655

Oh hey, cool. Say didn't someone start a separate thread for this?

I love the bit of sarcasm, actually I started the thread for the overclock competition but since about 117 posts on this thread were "show off" posts I thought I would add to it.  Apparently, that is frowned upon, or at least when I post them.  


Deleted the post

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sidehack
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February 24, 2016, 04:18:04 AM
 #1656

Oh, okay. I wasn't sure if that was a general showoff or if it was showing off for the overclock. Also it was fairly general, since a lot of the last page was just folks talking about the overclock competition.

Got a new 28-135GH stick miner!
Currently in development - 100+GH USB stick; 800GH 60W pod; 6TH volt-adjustable S1/3/5 upgrade kit
Server PSU interface boards and cables. USB and small-scale miners. Hardware hosting, advice and odd-jobs. Supporting the home miner community since 2013 - http://www.gekkoscience.com
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February 25, 2016, 12:02:27 AM
 #1657

Check the voltage on the reset testpad. There's a resistor and capacitor in the right corner immediately below the heatsink, make sure they're intact.

Sorry, I'm not too experienced with this. Am I looking for a resistor and capacitor underneath the heatsink after I remove it or before? Which are the reset testpad?

Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/tOHbY
sidehack
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February 25, 2016, 12:09:10 AM
 #1658

Not underneath the heatsink, below the heatsink Slightly closer to the USB connector than the edge of the heatsink. The reset testpad is the pad on the back labeled "reset".

Got a new 28-135GH stick miner!
Currently in development - 100+GH USB stick; 800GH 60W pod; 6TH volt-adjustable S1/3/5 upgrade kit
Server PSU interface boards and cables. USB and small-scale miners. Hardware hosting, advice and odd-jobs. Supporting the home miner community since 2013 - http://www.gekkoscience.com
epg
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February 25, 2016, 02:40:29 AM
 #1659

Not underneath the heatsink, below the heatsink Slightly closer to the USB connector than the edge of the heatsink. The reset testpad is the pad on the back labeled "reset".

A visual inspection doesn't show any clearly damaged areas, but I've included more pictures just in case.  https://imgur.com/a/tOHbY

I measured the voltage using the reset testpad and these were my readings:

VCORE: 0.55 V
1V8: 1.80 V
0V9: 0.48 V
RESET: 1.61 V
aarons6
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February 25, 2016, 02:44:10 AM
 #1660

Not underneath the heatsink, below the heatsink Slightly closer to the USB connector than the edge of the heatsink. The reset testpad is the pad on the back labeled "reset".

A visual inspection doesn't show any clearly damaged areas, but I've included more pictures just in case.  https://imgur.com/a/tOHbY

I measured the voltage using the reset testpad and these were my readings:

VCORE: 0.55 V
1V8: 1.80 V
0V9: 0.48 V
RESET: 1.61 V


im not sure but it looks like the pot is turned all the way down.. this isnt enough to run the compac..

id turn the pot clockwise until the flat part is pretty much on the bottom _ this is around .7v
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