I lied, last thing. DeathandTaxes-how about next time you make an international shipment you just post a picture of either the label or receipt? Feel free to blur out any personal info.

I already gave you credit for being the "Technicality King". Also, I am just taking your word on that...I'm convinced I'm able to ship to just about every country in the world, but listing the countries I can't ship to might give you a clue as to the method (not like you'd figure it out anyway though).  I'd be curious to see how often the average person mails anything to any of the countries you say supposedly are not supported. I for one can say that I have never had to mail  ANYTHING to anywhere on the entire continent of Africa, only a handful of countries in South America, and only a couple in the Middle East.

Also lets not be mistaken-you were wrong.

I'm done with this pissing contest. You can continue to ship the way you do and pay the [higher] price you pay. I'll use my method, the one I've been using for years, and save more than you on postage. If anyone else is interested in the way I ship, just send me a PM!

The shipping option [method] I use is not available as a selection on USPS.com. Don't you think there would be no need for a comprehensive guide if that was the case? Show me the option from usps.com that allows you to ship internationally with a tracking number for less than $10.

And to the person above me...60 packages? I'm a person, not a factory.

I really don't know why its the nature of people on the internet to troll and try as hard as they possibly can to disprove someone who they otherwise should have absolutely nothing against.

No one who hasn't paid for my guide can describe the shipping method I use. You guys all fail on that level. If someone gets close to hitting the nail on the head, I'll post the guide on here for free for everyone to see. Otherwise, I don't think anyone has anything to say.

Hey everybody,

I am talking about rare coins. Buying a rare coin for a lot of money does not necessarily mean you are a collector. If you could buy ANY product that you knew you could resell and for more money, wouldn't you? There is literally a huge market for rare coins, just check eBay. Its almost impossible to get a good deal as a buyer on there selling (because there are so many collectors watching every auction). But, the opportunity to make money as a seller is great. There is literally always someone on there who wants to buy your rare coin. One good thing about rare coins-even if they are made of gold or silver, they do not fluctuate with spot prices. And, there definitely aren't more of any specific one being made, so in time (and I'm talking year-year...check out the US Coin "Red Book") they only climb in value.

I personally have a BIG collection and would like to turn some of it into Bitcoins. So, I will be offering coins on here for bitcoins, at a price distinctly lower than whatever people are paying for them (eBay is obviously the best way to check this). So, you can buy a rare coin for bitcoins, and turn around and flip it for more cash. Or, you can buy a rare coin and keep it, knowing that at the very least its value won't go down. Who know's-you might even get into collecting!

EDIT: I have taken your guys' comments to heart and will list below only US Silver pieces. Still feeling out the price-range people are willing to pay, so these are average-low, with a rarer one in there (nickel). I figured that since I was going to be selling my coins, I should 1) invest in an expensive magnifier so I can more accurately grade, and 2) give you guys a description of what "numismatics" really means:

***
I think I should explain exactly what "numismatic" means. Collecting coins truly is a science. Coins can be rare for a few reasons: A rare design, date, mintmark, error, or even just existence!
There is a "bible" for US coin collecting-its the Whitman Red Book, which comes out every year (you can find it at your local coin shop, Amazon, anywhere books are sold, really). It literally lists the value of every coin minted in US history-and its important to have the latest edition because prices change (if a coin is rare now, it will be even more rare in 10 years).

With the exception of some coins of which VERY few exist, condition is EVERYTHING. I am pretty sure everyone has heard of "coin grading". There are third party, professional companies who grade and then slab coins (NGC, PCGS). I'm an NGC member-I send my most valued coins to them for grading.

How can you determine a coin's grade if you don't send it to a professional third party grading company? Well, the Whitman Red Book also explains what makes a particular coin of a particular grade. For example, say you have a 1932-D Washington Quarter. This is the first year Washington quarters were minted, so this is a very valuable coin, even regardless of its condition. In the grade of "VG-8" (the lowest grade the Red Book has for this coin), or "Very Good 8", the coin is listed at $175.00. Now, say you are really lucky, and you find a 1932-D Quarter in what looks to be very good condition. You determine that its grade is "EF 40", or Extra-Fine 40. You have determined that because of the strict criteria the Red Book has listed for an EF-40 Quarter. An EF-40 Quarter is, according to the Red Book, characterized by "Hair lines sharp. Wear spots confined to top of eagle's legs and center of breast." Congrats-you have a $300 coin!

Understand that this really is the numismatic "bible"-its the accepted standard for accessing coin grade and value. Often times coins come graded. You can leave them that way, but I like to do a secondary check. The industry standard is 5x magnification to observe "wear" as mentioned above (10x is considered too high-there would be blemishes everywhere).
So, understand that every coin listed is listed at its actual value based on a comprehensive grading by consultation of the Whitman Red Book, as performed by the coin shop and myself. You can thus be rest-assured that each coin is accurately graded and therefore accurately priced.

***

That being said, here are the coins I am offering, with their BOOK-assigned grade and price.
Keep in mind that all of these coins are 90% silver (except for the nickel, which is 35% silver). You are paying for silver value with a small premium for the rarity factor. Check "coinflation.com" to see exactly what each coin is worth in terms of strictly precious metal content.

All Prices Include US Shipping-If You Are International Please PM Me
A special additional coin will be added for free to each order!

1. 1893 World Expo "Columbian" Half Dollar - These coins were made available for sale at the World Fair in Chicago in 1893 for $1 (although they are legal tender for 50 cents). I think this is one of the most under-appreciated commemorative halves:

2. 1908 O Barber Half - I have always been fascinated by the New Orleans Mint. Its characterized by some kind of "mystery" behind it. It was rumored to have minted exclusively Confederate coinage during the Civil War:

3. 1949 P Franklin Half - I like the Franklin Half a lot more than the Kennedy Half, I don't know about you. This year is a semi key-date:

4. 1963 Proof Quarter - This quarter is literally in mint condition. It is still in its mint packaging. Only in the late '50s/early '60s did the US Mint have any real success in getting people to buy annual mint sets. Most of these were opened, though. A "Proof" coin is struck multiple (usually 3) times to produce a better looking coin. Sometimes it will produce a deep cameo/frosted effect. They are great coins to collect!:

5. 1943 D Nickel - This is a "War Nickel"; the US needed nickel for WWII, so from '43-'45 they produced nickels composed of 35% silver. You may find some in circulation-the silver content makes them turn a dark black, and they are distinct in that their mintmark is enlarged, right above Monticello on the back of the coin. This particular coin is "choice uncirculated". It was never circulated, and it is taking a pleasant rainbow tone, which will continue to progress. This is definitely the rarest coin in the bunch:






















Questions? Ask!

"End to End" tracking IS available. So you are wrong. No, maybe not to parts of Africa (too bad because I have tons of customers from Malawi), but to certain "first world" countries.

Anyways, as stated, this method has always worked for me. Never was a package lost internationally to ANY country I shipped to and never did a buyer claim to not have received a package.

I can just see the trolls pouring over the fine print on USPS.com

Like I said, this method has always worked for me. If it doesn't work in certain countries in Africa and other mentioned reasons, I never would have found out. Do you know why? Because about 90% of the time I ship to THREE countries (Australia, Canada, Great Britain). And you know what-the method works there! I imagine the majority of the customers I have come from those countries because people in Africa and regions of South America probably don't have bitcoins to spend, let alone even a computer.

So in the battle of technicalities, congratulations, you win. In the battle of real world application and utility, I win.

Also, to address the most recent comment, my method involves no "software" of any kind. Also, stamps.com is a website you have to be a member of, and there are monthly fees. My shipping method involves paying for the cost of postage, plus a fee of a quarter (yes a quarter, literally 25 cents), printing your postage, applying it, and shipping. You can do it any number of times you want, the cost always stays the same.

You guys sound so smart spitting out all the facts you're getting from god knows where (hope its time well spent). I'm surprised you haven't just figured it out yet ; )

Hey everybody,

I was doing some cleaning and found 2 Visa Vanilla Prepaid cards. I just checked their balance online-one has $12.92 on it and one has $7.17 on it, for a total of $20.09. I can physically mail you the cards (via regular postage-stamp mail-otherwise trackable shipping is $1.69). Or, I can give you their info AFTER I receive payment. We can do escrow through John if you want.

All you have to do with these cards is register a zip code - so as long as "payment address" contains that same zip code, you are good to go. So you can remain somewhat "anonymous" with these things.

I am asking $19. Use the converter at preev.com - right now its 0.1681BTC. If you want them physically shipped thats free of charge, unless you want to do it via a trackable method, as mentioned above.

Thanks!

You can just admit you were wrong.

Whenever I have needed to track a package using my method, its given me some update about the parcel. It could be that its still in the US, that it has been dispatched to receiving country, that it is being processed in receiving country, and most importantly (the only thing I really use it for), when the package reaches the customer. So the way I use it is like tracking via Delivery Confirmation.

His stuff is awesome. I have seen those coins and recently asked how I go about buying one w/BTC but he hasn't responded : (

I'm sure he could design a variation of what I'm thinking about. I want to make a round in the style of say...a Maple Leaf. By that I mean silhouette, design on back, etc. So if he sees this and is up for it, PM me! I will probably message him anyway.

Thanks a lot for the suggestion!

Stop making yourself look stupid. Check out my thread in the "goods" section. This isn't a matter of one's intelligence, its one about postage. Also no, I don't assume because it makes an ass out of you.

Lol. The game is over though. I can't believe I hadn't thought of this.

A picture really is worth 1,000 words. I take pictures of almost all of the packages I send-its like my own insurance policy. Thankfully, I had taken a picture of this one. Sorry about the size...just look VERY carefully at the upper right hand corner of the image ; )

Link to image in full size: http://postimg.org/image/xzn6b3io3/

*Also, obviously I painted over my name/info. Are they ever good things to leave out there? I did the same (paint over) to some irrelevant info, too. You probably don't even notice it. Its not covering anything that needs to be worried about. I'm just protecting "Tools of the Trade" ; )*

I only posted the recipient's address because its available publicly online. It actually belongs to a user here on the forums ; )


click image to make it HUGE

Littleshop-if you are so confident, how about I mail you the shipping method VIA the shipping method? (if you are international). 1 Bitcoin says it gets there, trackable all the while.

Respectfully, I am not wrong-you are. I use this method to ship more valuable goods/orders where I don't know the buyer and their trustworthiness. It has worked, tracking all the while, to countries all over the world. I most commonly ship to Australia, Canada, and Great Britain. However, I have shipped to Spain, Germany, more European countries I can't think of, Singapore, Hong Kong, and even El Salvador and Argentina.

I have sent the method to one user who inquired. I asked him to comment on the validity of the method, so lets wait and see what he says!

You guys are just .03 BTC away.

Will somebody just buy these damn drums? Somehow they are always at the top of the Marketplace posts lol.
Also you can use a MtGox ticker. But if its your way of bumping your thread, bump away.

Not at all. You can send a box of lead if you want. I'm teaching you how to buy domestic and international postage for cheaper than you'd find it anywhere else.

Not quite. That may work for domestic shipping, but not international!

OK, offer-offer doesn't seem to be a popular method. .14BTC shipped, final offer

Hillarious. If you want to keep paying more for shipping, don't buy this guide. That simple.