GekkoScience Compac BM1384 Stickminer Official Support Thread

[RichBC]

Lets take inputs and ideas for the contest for 24 Hours and then set then start time.

Rich

[kilo17]

Started a thread here about the contest.  Do not want to divert the purpose of this thread-

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1373812.new#new

[Biodom]

So how about a Week to get ready. Single Compac / entrant, no holds barred on PSU, Heatsink Fans etc. Picture of Miner to be posted in this thread.

Mine to the old address so that Phil get's the benefit of the Blocks we hit  

24 Hour Run, Highest total Hash is the Winner.


Rich

Let's shoot for Friday, I think that would be plenty of time to get ready.  

I think the contest should run 24 hours but the actual runtime needs to be limited to say 5-10 minutes.  Hard to do a 24 hour run with extreme cooling

yes, might be some modification, say, 8-12 hr continuous run and average speed reporting as a mark.
Somebody (AJRGale?) already reported some extreme readings for a few minutes.
I tried it before...compac gets tired of abuse after ~12 hr, but it could take it (to a degree) definitely longer than 10 min.

EDIT: OR, we can split the competition into two parts: sprint (10 min) and 5000 meters (>8hr, <12hr)

[VirosaGITS]

So how about a Week to get ready. Single Compac / entrant, no holds barred on PSU, Heatsink Fans etc. Picture of Miner to be posted in this thread.

Mine to the old address so that Phil get's the benefit of the Blocks we hit  

24 Hour Run, Highest total Hash is the Winner.


Rich

Let's shoot for Friday, I think that would be plenty of time to get ready.  

I think the contest should run 24 hours but the actual runtime needs to be limited to say 5-10 minutes.  Hard to do a 24 hour run with extreme cooling

yes, might be some modification, say, 8-12 hr continuous run and average speed reporting as a mark.
Somebody (AJRGale?) already reported some extreme readings for a few minutes.
I tried it before...compac gets tired of abuse after ~12 hr, but it could take it (to a degree) definitely longer than 10 min.

EDIT: OR, we can split the competition into two parts: sprint (10 min) and 5000 meters (>8hr, <12hr)

Since the TDP on these things is so low, why not put the stick in your freezer? Would'nt it work? If so i dont see why the stick could not run stable super overvolted indefinitively if the temps are kept low?

[epg]

Hello! I received my 4 units today from the latest batch and just got set up following the gekkoscience.com/misc/cgminer-gekko-win32.zip provided in the OP. Settings are just running at the default 150MHz clockspeed and balancing between two pools. 

I'm running into an issue where one of the Compacs simply refuses to start mining- the green light comes on, I'm able to see it in Windows Device Manager and install the drivers using the zadig tool, but that's it. I've tried connecting via USB ports directly on three different machines (Win10, Windows Server 2012 R2, Raspberry Pi B with Minera + Compac mod) and two different powered USB 2.0 hubs with no luck. The other three Compac units work fine with any combination of machines/hubs, so I am thinking it may be something with this one Compac unit.

I noticed that the white light also doesn't come on with this unit anymore, although I'm pretty sure it did the first one or two times when I first plugged it in.

I have one of those USB Charger Doctor gadgets (in-line voltage and current meter), and I notice on the stubborn Compac that it reads 5.04-5.05V/0.06A upon being plugged in and idle/not mining. The other units that are working fine read 4.96-4.99V/0.19-0.22A when plugged in and are idle/not mining.

This is as far as I can get in cgminer:


Any suggestions?

[kilo17]

Hello! I received my 4 units today from the latest batch and just got set up following the gekkoscience.com/misc/cgminer-gekko-win32.zip provided in the OP. Settings are just running at the default 150MHz clockspeed and balancing between two pools.  

I'm running into an issue where one of the Compacs simply refuses to start mining- the green light comes on, I'm able to see it in Windows Device Manager and install the drivers using the zadig tool, but that's it. I've tried connecting via USB ports directly on three different machines (Win10, Windows Server 2012 R2, Raspberry Pi B with Minera + Compac mod) and two different powered USB 2.0 hubs with no luck. The other three Compac units work fine with any combination of machines/hubs, so I am thinking it may be something with this one Compac unit.

I noticed that the white light also doesn't come on with this unit anymore, although I'm pretty sure it did the first one or two times when I first plugged it in.

I have one of those USB Charger Doctor gadgets (in-line voltage and current meter), and I notice on the stubborn Compac that it reads 5.04-5.05V/0.06A upon being plugged in and idle/not mining. The other units that are working fine read 4.96-4.99V/0.19-0.22A when plugged in and are idle/not mining.

This is as far as I can get in cgminer:


Any suggestions?

Download this and install the driver  

http://zadig.akeo.ie

Or even better would be to run Bfgminer on a Mac and not deal with the WIndows crap

[sidehack]

Check the voltage on the reset testpad. There's a resistor and capacitor in the right corner immediately below the heatsink, make sure they're intact.

[Wutti]

What is the highest frequency that i can run these sticks at 24/7 without using a fan?

Since there isnt a temperature sensor on chip, any pointers on "safe" heatsink temperature range? Thanks.

[justchill]

Just one USB 3.0 HUB question. Ports can deliver more power (900mA)

But what if I connect a 3.0 USB hub to a GA-DA525 mini-itx motherboard that only has USB 2.0.

Will the USB 3.0 ports from the be able to deliver the higher 900mA current (instead of 500mA) ?

So still looking for a hub...

[cavaliersrus]

yes it will it uses the power from the hub not threw the computer...
the data is passed to the computer

the hub gets it power from the outlet at least that is how all the hubs ive seen used works

[justchill]

So I will get 900mA is what you say?

Another question: is there a possibility to mount the heatsink to the inside of a metal PC case for better dissipation?

[cavaliersrus]

you should get if your power supply for the hub can supply the 900 it should get it on each port

as for the heatsink's if i remember right if you mod the heatsink it voids warrenty... but that would be something to ask sidehack about

[sidehack]

If you mod the heatsink and break it, repairing that break is not under warranty. Like the guy who bunged the 0.9V LDO when he put a big heatsink on it; he paid for the repair and shipping.

[cavaliersrus]

so you can mod the heatsink just have to be careful and not mess it up correct ? but if somebody changed the heatsink and put a new one on and something else happened not related to the heatsink then it would be covered ?

[sidehack]

If you put a little tiny heatsink on it or run it without a fan and the chip fries, that's on you. But if it developed a problem that was not a result of having a different heatsink, or the owner doing something stupid, yeah it's probably covered.

[kilo17]

I am preparing for the big contest - I understand I am voiding the warranty - Is there a way to bypass the buck converter on the compac with the device below.  My specialty is cooling not components, any help would be appreciated.  I am going to do a little extreme cooling on it and want full control of the power  




If I need to hack up the compac then that is ok

[RichBC]

I am preparing for the big contest - I understand I am voiding the warranty - Is there a way to bypass the buck converter on the compac with the device below.  My specialty is cooling not components, any help would be appreciated.  I am going to do a little extreme cooling on it and want full control of the power  

If I need to hack up the compac then that is ok

The voltage output of that Buck is too high you need 0.6V to 0.8V maybee 0.9V if you are really pushing things.

The onboard buck is very good and well overspecked for a single BM1384. Other than reducing the series resistor on the pot to allow you to get to 0.8V and adding a voltmenter no need to do anything else.


Rich

[sidehack]

If you want to push more than about 17A into the ASIC (note the S5 runs maybe 11A on stock settings) you should replace the inductor. But before you worry about that you'll probably be worrying about your USB jack.

[kilo17]

I am preparing for the big contest - I understand I am voiding the warranty - Is there a way to bypass the buck converter on the compac with the device below.  My specialty is cooling not components, any help would be appreciated.  I am going to do a little extreme cooling on it and want full control of the power  

If I need to hack up the compac then that is ok

The voltage output of that Buck is too high you need 0.6V to 0.8V maybee 0.9V if you are really pushing things.

The onboard buck is very good and well overspecked for a single BM1384. Other than reducing the series resistor on the pot to allow you to get to 0.8V and adding a voltmenter no need to do anything else.


Rich

Sorry, I posted the wrong picture.  The one I was looking at is adjustable down to 0.5 volts.  If there is no way to hack the external device in I will probably reduce the series resistor.  

If you want to push more than about 17A into the ASIC (note the S5 runs maybe 11A on stock settings) you should replace the inductor. But before you worry about that you'll probably be worrying about your USB jack.

And replace the inductor and hard wire the USB port

[kilo17]

The voltage output of that Buck is too high you need 0.6V to 0.8V maybee 0.9V if you are really pushing things.
Rich

Wanting to use DI/Alcohol for cooling and hoping to push the voltage up past 1 volt