Yep, I'm already regretting moving my miners from Nicehash to Kano.
Thats silly, even with the "bad block" we're still at over 100% luck. Meanwhile nicehash pays -1% to -6% + applies 2% fee to renter and 2% fee to miners.
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There is a groupbuy going on for the Avalon 6 for $1100 USD.
Its a decent deal and they might ship to canada.
Everything else looks still overpriced.
Thats a nice price for an Avalon 6, i'll think about it. I'm not sure when that would hit, but in 2 weeks, the 1100USD S7 will start hitting doors, so on a hashrate comparaison, i might stick to S7.
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Let me ask this another way. Is there a way I can attempt to fix it?
As per previous and other's post, yes you can try to put a new one assuming nothing else burnt down. If you're fine with soldering, replacing a PCI-e plug should be easy.
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About HW error rate. How to interpret is? What is too high rate?
If ran with good a PSU at stock setting, you should be pretty much at 0. If you OC a lot you might get anywhere from 0.0001% to 0.05% its all good, its merely an indication. You could get 1% and it would only indicate that the PSU's volt output is sagging a bit or that the OC is too high (not a danger, but lower efficiency) its not directly a problem in itself. Simply see what gives you the best hashrate. If you OC. If you don't, not getting near 0 might mean your PSU aren't very good. I get 1.32TH/s for 400 freq. 1.27 for 387freq.
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I am looking to pickup one unit right now. Let me know if you think of selling one, or have your hand on a S7 coupon. Thanks.
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I don't know if there are some coupons still left around, but if there are, let me know. I want but one coupon, maybe two if the expiration date is not too short. Thanks.
Escrow through OgNasty if you don't trust me.
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The problem with Bitcoins adaptation for small businesses, and larger variants alike, is not that its too "Evolved," or "Complicated," to understand. The problem - at least from my objective point of view - is that it's too risky for any organisation to hold their revenue in a digital format which is dramatically unsettled - in terms of everything.
This feeling (which surprisingly increases during $/BTC conversion spikes and peaks), force organisations of reduces or turn a blind-eye to the integration of Bitcoin into their payment systems; for the fear that once they begin to hold and accept btc for physical goods, their revenue would soon be slashed by 80% during one of these dramatic episodes.
In the long-run, I can only imagine that the settling nature of Bitcoin - if in fact it does ever settle - would encourage smaller and bigger firms, local and international business to allow adopt Bitcoin in their portfolio.
Moot, thats not the case, since payment processor will do the work for you. However it is true that most people don't realize you can simply slap a BTC accepted sticker, add a certain BTC processor and then get paid in USD or whatever currency you want. In reality its really simple and its not true you need to hold BTC, but i talked to a couple of big sellers and they don't know or use this excuse as bullshit. Like Steam.
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I came across some site which is like a bitcoin washing site but peer to peer, the site itself acts like an escrow and allows people to trade apparently 'dirty' bitcoins(maybe from hacked wallets im thinking or stolen, scammed etc) for 'clean' bitcoins. Now i don't know if it's legit the whole idea of it. I always thought bitcoins were anonymous either way why would someone even do that and lose 30 coins?
Although I'm quite new to this stuff so if anyone knows more about this stuff I'd be happy to hear your opinions/experiences on this.
after this tx there are other 50 coins to clean it's a sort of perpetual exchange yes this is a pure scam, the classic honey pot, and even a coins can be "seized" after was send from the original owner, then just press "new wallet" or create one and you can clean by yourself, if you are a "criminal". by the way, classical scam attempt. You can't clean by yourself, you need to send the coins to a mixer. Having a new wallet will do no "cleaning" whatsoever.
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Hi All, I made a list, users who claim to be repaid for some posts (for the limits issue) : @notlist3d, @Amph, @VirosaGITS, @erikalui, @gkv9, @harizen. If you think you're missed please feel free to contact me . Regards, @Bitcoin Boy. Is this still getting looked into? Thanks.
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Sounds like you had an overvoltage or surge.
I do electronic repair and this seems like the current draw, rated in amps, had a spike of over 4 or 5. You shouldn't be pulling this much.
Whats the clock rate?
350, as you can see on the screen shot. This should be fine, unless the cables he use are very small gauge and the connector themselves are cheap. One connector is fine as per typical watt limits (although i reckon in case of surge you have nearly no headroom. I'm guessing OP was not using surge protectors.
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My s5 melted one plug and now i noticed that the front plug on the same hashing board is ultra hot but the second board is still cool. Did the one board most likely just go bad? I went ahead and posted that I was looking for another. Whats is crazy it is still hashing along like a champ at like 1.2 th/s with all chips working. I have since unplugged it because I'm sure the front plug will melt also now. http://s19.postimg.org/bk2f4lver/miners5.jpghttp://s19.postimg.org/gy17c5l4z/2016_01_07_1.pngHmm, maybe they,re cheap connector so the connection was not very good and it caused the electricity to arc and cause heat? Its weird, but if it still run, i think i would keep it running with one connector since i see you're not overclocking. Either that or sell the damaged board for near full price, since a bad connector is minor.
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I have been running my B3s since I got them, they are almost out of warentee - then I get to play with them in "other" ways.
One thing I'd like to play with is running more hashboards per controller, to free up some controllers for"other experiments".
What I'm looking for, for the "other experiments".....
***** BURNT BOARDS ... I've seen some pics of just BBQ'ed board... I'd like to play around with those. Don't pick at the boards, don't pull the wires, cut the wires if the connectors seem to be stuck.
***** DEAD BOARDS, the ones showing all --------------- I would like to also play around with those.
It does not matter what batch they are from. I just want the hashboards, not the whole unit unless the whole unit is crispy cooked and not easily disassembled.
Please keep in mind these burnt/dead boards are just scrap as they sit - the only value of those boards is gold recovery value... or a memento of wasted money & bad luck.
Since I do not have any burnt or dead boards of my own, I'm going to need some that I can play with to see if I can help the rest of the S7 community with developing a process to recover some, most, maybe, just maybe all hashrate.
If anyone has a board or two that I can "play around with", maybe finding a work around to get these operational again, please let me know what you have and what you would want for the boards.
Thank you
bbOOmm Wisconsin USA
Most burnt/dead board i saw had recoverable chips, which would make the board pretty valuable. Just something to keep in mind. Also Bitmain used to buy back bad boards at a good price for the same reason i presume.
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S7 received, preliminary 20 mins run gives 4.74TH/s fan 50%, watt 1440 on two 1050 EVGA GS/G2. I estimated 1475w based on Bitmain's numbers. So a EVGA g2 1300 would run this fine albeit at 1450Watts~
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My S7 was received with the code 8471410090. So i guess Bitmain do declare a code after all. The code is labeled "BITCOIN MINER". They also declared the right value, albeit minus counting the discount.
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Shit! They are down after the DDos.... are the coins safe with there being an attack ?
Yes, the DDoS only prevent legitimate users from connecting to the domain. The DDoS simply send a shit ton of spam request to the servers so that the servers are too busy answering your legitimate request. Which means its not a hack or a breach of any sort.
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OK, I aam in..... +7.4% = alh Personally I don't think the wild swings are for nefarious purposes, but just digesting all the new hash being turned by Bitmain (sales & internal), BitFury (internal), and Avalon ( ?). Phil's theory that its the Russian's plant overheating is a pretty good one. Either way, it doesnt do much nefariousness. Overall it just mean the diff will raise slower.
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Hi, Anybody knows why btc-e is down right now?
They are under DDoS; BTC-E @btcecom 51m51 minutes ago DDoS attack on our server #btce
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How about this- Why would an honest guy need a VPN to sell stuff on a forum- Better yet, why can't he spell or use correct grammar if he is from Arizona. https://i.imgur.com/jYFFC8l.pngYeah he's fishy, exactly like the other .com guy that was red trusted last week. Its probably the same guy. Avoid this user.
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I tried that and it simply won't turn on without all 4 boards plugged in. I also tried moving the remaining three connectors to different places and no luck, still won't turn on. I have the latest firmware too if that makes any difference.
eta: I tried something potentially risky and swapped the controller with another C1 that has 4 good boards. Seems to have fixed it. It works now with any combination of boards connected with the other controller. Kinda strange but I'm not complaining. Thanks for the input VirosaGITS. I appreciate it.
No problem. I've run the S5 controller with 0, 1, 2, 3 and 4 boards. It always work. Same for S1 with 0, 1, 2 board. I'm pretty sure your C1 controller should be able to do the same. Good luck with your rig.
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I have a C1 with one dead board. I took it out and it no longer powers up. If I plug it in, the unit powers up, but the board doesn't hash. I know whats wrong with it, there are tiny black components under the heat sink that came off. I wouldn't mind fixing it but I have no idea what they are and searching for the numbers on them turned up nothing. That's a separate issue though (wouldn't mind input on that anyhow). Is there some way to get it to boot if I take one or two boards out? My intentions are to take out two boards, the broken one and one of the working ones. I've looked through all the settings on the web interface and can find nothing and I've searched google and here and found nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
You should simply have to unplug the boards from the controller, nothing fancy should be needed. When you boot, it should pick up the one that are connected.
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