Hi to all, i made a transaction from a paperwallet i own, the transaction has low fees, my question is, if the transaction dn't get confirmed does the bitcoin return to my paperwallet address? Thanks
I've had an unconfirmed TX for weeks. You should us the TXid, then we can give you more information. But without it, all i can say is it could take minutes to confirms, or weeks. And may or may not be purged from the network after an unknown amount of time.
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But the best part about pulling parts and remounting is it's pretty easy when you have a reflow oven and a putty knife and a pick-and-place machine.
At this point, pods as they've been discussed in this thread are basically deceased. The chips I can use are either about to be two generations behind, unavaiable, or have no datasheet. For now the pod as it is in this thread might be repurposed as a testbed for a new project but with the diff where it's going, it'll be hard to make a BM1385/A3218 pod feasible let alone a BM1384.
Ahh, i still have that (your extra) S5 board you sent me by accident. What do i do with it? If you make some pods i still dont mind doing a trade in of S5/S1/AMTubes boards. But i understand that from a development standpoint it might not be worth the production costs. I hope he does it as I really like his work. But I think S1/AM tubes are not going to be big on list of needs (unless from componets he needs), I just don't see chips being that great. The good news for the project is bitcoin difficulty is going crazy. Which is bad for miners. But likely means S3's and S5's will only get cheaper and if difficulty keeps going like it is hard to say what cost would be in a month even. So the good news is possibly cheaper miners with decent chips. But granted they still are not the latest and greatest chips. Yeah he said he needed the S1/AMT for the solid state caps and such. And that the S1 had more needed components than he expected. But the thing is its not very motivating to do this work when the pods would no longer really ROI. Its too bad because i know pods would still be okay. I mean look at people still buying U3 just because they're quiet and they're run on free electricity. But its pretty niche now, i guess. Personally i still want them, but *shrug*. Price wise it might be a bit icky. I can't figure out why people still pay so much for U3's. I bought from crazy guy and eventually got R1 to control them with Crazy Guy's custom firmware. I played with them for a month or two and i lost interest. I actually made ROI by selling for some reason people still pay decent on U3's or did during time I sold. I am waiting to see if the pod happens I would add one maybe a few to play with. I still would like to see a company sell current gen chips to Sidehack. Would love if he got support and we see a pod with it. I dont know. Why do people buy sidehack sticks for 25-40USD? Maybe some people see them as lottery tickets. I got one as a toy, and if you run 100 of them on free electricity, then i guess you have a silent 1TH/s that makes 0 noise. Depending on the heat density.
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the demo was on older firmware. you need to go back and use 1 stock fan and 1 new 3 pin fan.
that should work.
Make sure the Fan is plugged in Fan1 too! Just something to keep in mind or the safeguard will kick in. I don't want to use the stock fans. They are to noisy! I bought 2 new PRO, high CFM 3 pin fans and like to use these. regards, Eric Well the stock fans arent really that noisy at 2400RPM. And the corsairs performance edition i have dont push enough air. But regardless, i meant the RPM reading need to be on Fan1. If its on Fan2 the miner will do what its doing right now because the safeguard will kick in since it will read 0 rpm on Fan1, it doesnt check Fan2.
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I think they will make another batch and sell again. I think they have mastered design with least amount of chips needed and high freq. I think they make a killing when they sell them. So I feel every batch just means more money for them. I think we will keep seeing them and they will lower prices based on difficulty partially trying to drum up new sales at lower price each batch.
I agree and am hoping they drop prices to get one final big push of miners out the door before 16nm miners make the S7 a thing of the past. they will have to be very cheap to be worth anything.. currently, at 10c a kwh they cost around 90$ a month to run, and in 2 days or so they will only make 170$ a month.. they will only be worth while to people with very low power cost. at 5 cents power or less they are good gear. at 10 cents not very good. i was thinking about getting one this round but my power costs arent so good.. Costs are based on average PSE residential rates for electric service ($.088594 per kWh [first 600 kWh] and $0.107172 [remaining kWh]) Right now, i'm finding it icky at 0.06$, so i would second your own judgment here. I used to recommend at 0.07 and under. At the moment i would not get in unless i was at 0.03 which myself am not. I'm even considering selling the 2 S7 that i have. Maybe even the Avalons 6 even though they're pretty chill.
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I'm fairly new to the bitcoin mining community and I'm looking for any advice that would help me get started. Like what miners are best? What's the best psu's to go with them? And what's the best way to go about purchasing then in the marketplace and how escrow works and all that fun stuff? I would also like to know how the trust rating works as far as the sellers go. How do I know who to trust and who not to trust?
Do your research, you're asking who to trust, which is an horrible question. You need to understand why I for instance would tell you to purchase X miner, why it make sense or not. You should never trust someone and do what he is telling you to do. Ever. If you want to mine profitably, the two things that matters is your budget and your electricity price. If your electricity price is under 0.04$/kWh, lets talk. If its higher, come back after halving.
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1x: EVGA 1300W Gold Power Supply $125 is sold to me Yep, updated OP. Thanks Valkir. And the 1600 T2 i received has been working great. I'm going to possibly going to need more PSU soon if i can find a PDU to use in my 50a receptacle. Yesterday there was a sale for a 650 P2 for 75$ shipped (after mir) so i went for that. But i'm going to need quite a bit more. Maybe i'd be interested in cleaning out all the Seasonics gold, maybe see if i can get a good deal from cleaning out what you have left. We'll see.
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Well your out of warranty. There are three things you could do.....shut it down and try reconnecting all the connectors and checking to make sure it's not a bad psu causing the issue. Also swap the board connectors between board 1&2. If that doesn't help contact Bitmain and find out how much a board will cost you. Or do nothing and just let the board slowly die.
It look like its already dead since the miner is hashing at the speed of 2 boards, so i would unplug it and offer the dead board to sidehack or something. Of course do that after having verified that the board is really dead.
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the demo was on older firmware. you need to go back and use 1 stock fan and 1 new 3 pin fan.
that should work.
Make sure the Fan is plugged in Fan1 too! Just something to keep in mind or the safeguard will kick in.
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But the best part about pulling parts and remounting is it's pretty easy when you have a reflow oven and a putty knife and a pick-and-place machine.
At this point, pods as they've been discussed in this thread are basically deceased. The chips I can use are either about to be two generations behind, unavaiable, or have no datasheet. For now the pod as it is in this thread might be repurposed as a testbed for a new project but with the diff where it's going, it'll be hard to make a BM1385/A3218 pod feasible let alone a BM1384.
Ahh, i still have that (your extra) S5 board you sent me by accident. What do i do with it? If you make some pods i still dont mind doing a trade in of S5/S1/AMTubes boards. But i understand that from a development standpoint it might not be worth the production costs. I hope he does it as I really like his work. But I think S1/AM tubes are not going to be big on list of needs (unless from componets he needs), I just don't see chips being that great. The good news for the project is bitcoin difficulty is going crazy. Which is bad for miners. But likely means S3's and S5's will only get cheaper and if difficulty keeps going like it is hard to say what cost would be in a month even. So the good news is possibly cheaper miners with decent chips. But granted they still are not the latest and greatest chips. Yeah he said he needed the S1/AMT for the solid state caps and such. And that the S1 had more needed components than he expected. But the thing is its not very motivating to do this work when the pods would no longer really ROI. Its too bad because i know pods would still be okay. I mean look at people still buying U3 just because they're quiet and they're run on free electricity. But its pretty niche now, i guess. Personally i still want them, but *shrug*. Price wise it might be a bit icky.
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Thanks for the useful tip VirosaGITS.
In more details for the other newbies. For Antminer s5, use
cgminer-api -o stats
to get all status data. temp1 can then be extracted using for example
cgminer-api -o stats | sed 's/,/\n/g' | grep 'temp1='
Thanks, i actually had a irl friend that does Android coding that was wondering how the API handling worked (he didnt have the time to do the research) and i just showed him the past, but i hadnt looked what command to send to cgminer though SSH to get the paste. Its good to know, just for academic purposes too.
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I have a NEMA 14-50r that i would rather not change, i move out soon, but i would still like to mine on it for the time being and when i move i will also have access to a NEMA 14-50r.
-What would be the most cost effective solution? (30A PDU on 50A receptable?) -What would be the solution where i would get access to the most power? -In regard to question #2, would it be possible to get a electrically safe box that would plug into a NEMA 14-50r and output multiple of the the more common outlet that the cheap PDU plug into?
I remember philipma1957 linking PDU dirt cheap. But it seem that a 50A PDU is 10x the price of a 30A PDU or so?
Note: The breaker the 14-50r is plugged into is 40A.
I don't know that I have seen any deals on 50 amp PDU, I think that route might be hard due to not near as many used ones on market. When you go to 20 or 30 amp PDU's you can find a deal most of the time. There really are a lot of used people sell for far less then new price. I have one really nice 30 amp pdu I owe Phil for finding a deal on, and I have one lower quality one as a backup I bought about a month ago. What I would be doing is looking for a way to split it and go to 2 PDU's. Someone else chime in. But I think splitting the connection might be way to go. Anyone have a decent deal on a cable to do this for him? I'm thinking a cable that can do this on 40a might be a tad expensive as far as splitters go. Worse case Scenario, a nice deal on a 30A PDU with an adapter that fit in the 14-50r would be okay, until i get a way to slap two 20~30A PDU on the 50a outlet? (Or find a 50a PDU) I need a quick and cheap solution for as soon as possible and then the maxed setup can wait a bit.
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The current signatures' 'BIT-X logo' part has become all weird.
0.05BTC to the first person who can make it look normal again (for all ranks), should be an easy fix (previous codes are in recent pages I believe and the latest in the first post). Much appreciated!
Its probably your screen resolution(bitcointalk signatures are poor at "adapting" to low resolution change) mate, seems fine here. Bounty on hold, I'll figure it out It does look a little weird, I'm on firefox on 1980x1080, here's what it looks like On chrome, same resolution here, looks fine.
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Hi all.
I am new to the website but not new to BTC at all. I want to know how I can change the newbie to a member. I am finding that people is giving Newbie a hard time with everything on this site.
Is there a way to change newbie to a Member. If so how.
Thank you for your help.
You can't pay for your account to become a Member account. You have to work and gain to have that desired account rank. Bitcointalk isn't like the other forum that you can subscribe and pay certain amount to become a VIP/premium member. you have to start from the ground up intul you get to have a legendary account. Unless you prefer to buy and account instead. Actually, he could donate and get a donator account. Its just that the BTC value needed to be donated to get VIP/Donator has not been adjusted in years so you'd basically need to donate many thousands of dollars to get it. I saw that. I want think on doing that after I get my Solar BTC Miner rebuild. You want to donate 4000$ or 20000$ to the forum? Well be my guest.
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Hi all.
I am new to the website but not new to BTC at all. I want to know how I can change the newbie to a member. I am finding that people is giving Newbie a hard time with everything on this site.
Is there a way to change newbie to a Member. If so how.
Thank you for your help.
You can't pay for your account to become a Member account. You have to work and gain to have that desired account rank. Bitcointalk isn't like the other forum that you can subscribe and pay certain amount to become a VIP/premium member. you have to start from the ground up intul you get to have a legendary account. Unless you prefer to buy and account instead. Actually, he could donate and get a donator account. Its just that the BTC value needed to be donated to get VIP/Donator has not been adjusted in years so you'd basically need to donate many thousands of dollars to get it.
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But the best part about pulling parts and remounting is it's pretty easy when you have a reflow oven and a putty knife and a pick-and-place machine.
At this point, pods as they've been discussed in this thread are basically deceased. The chips I can use are either about to be two generations behind, unavaiable, or have no datasheet. For now the pod as it is in this thread might be repurposed as a testbed for a new project but with the diff where it's going, it'll be hard to make a BM1385/A3218 pod feasible let alone a BM1384.
Ahh, i still have that (your extra) S5 board you sent me by accident. What do i do with it? If you make some pods i still dont mind doing a trade in of S5/S1/AMTubes boards. But i understand that from a development standpoint it might not be worth the production costs.
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Hi i've mined 4 or 5 days without btc adress set how can i withdraw my BTC
-Login -Account tab -> Settings "To change your payout address, enter a new address and your password BTC Address:" -Input BTC address.
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I have a NEMA 14-50r that i would rather not change, i move out soon, but i would still like to mine on it for the time being and when i move i will also have access to a NEMA 14-50r.
-What would be the most cost effective solution? (30A PDU on 50A receptable?) -What would be the solution where i would get access to the most power? -In regard to question #2, would it be possible to get a electrically safe box that would plug into a NEMA 14-50r and output multiple of the the more common outlet that the cheap PDU plug into?
I remember philipma1957 linking PDU dirt cheap. But it seem that a 50A PDU is 10x the price of a 30A PDU or so?
Note: The breaker the 14-50r is plugged into is 40A.
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I will now lock the thread, as i am not willing to part with these at what seem to be the buyers asking prices right now. With everyone panicking, they're letting these go for something like 150$ each, which is insane. I reckon these will only earn 40$USD at the next diff increase in a few days, but there's no way i'm selling these for 100$ each.
And i'll create a different thread for the PDU stuff. Still, PM me if you read this in the future and is looking for cheap hardware, i might still have some willing to sell and i have some AMTubes as well.
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