I want to get my one problematic C1 fixed. If I tighten the fill hole on top of the pump it will start leaking and build so much pressure and possibly blow the loop. If I keep the fill hole open, no leaks. What is the easiest way to troubleshoot and find out if this system has a leak or a small hole somewhere sucking in air? Air HAS to be getting into the system somehow. I'm willing to run, if possible, the entire miner out of the black box, but there seriously is a problem. For warranty purposes the only thing I could do is tighten the fill hole and then when it starts to build enough pressure and make noise I'll record a small video showing me opening the fill hole.
Is there anyplace the coolant can leak out while inside the aluminum block, or just in the front where they connect with that little rubber hose?
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Are there any recommended fan replacements from the default ones?? The C1 is a little nosier than they said it would be.
Huh? Noisy? They aren't noisy at all.
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you diluted too much the fluid or it does not have enough alcohol or glycol in it look for some biocide or antimicrobial or anti algae i use vodka Nothing was diluted. The coolant came pre-mixed with a biocide already in it. No mixing. And the best thing I heard is distilled water and then using those silver shards. I heard someone ran a system for 5 years without replacing the coolant. I think that's what I'm going to try.
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Bubbleman is back!
I bought 6 total C1's and I have just one that constantly gives me problems. I haven't cleared the bubble situation completely yet, because soon as I move my radiator around all the air pockets that accumulated over time spits out into the pump, creating more bubbles. The highest temperature I've seen on it was 41C, so I won't worry about it much. And it is hashing over 1000Gh/s but have to keep the voltages at 755 on all of them to get that speed, which uses more electricity. I have to check out my electric bill soon to see what I'm paying, I could be wasting money here not even realizing yet.
And yet, another question. On ALL my C1's I have all the tubes are still clear. You can see right through them. No residue or anything on the inside, EXCEPT that one damn C1 I'm always having trouble with. While I was troubleshooting my bubble issue I noticed the hose going from the miner to the radiator was a weird color. So I emptied out some of the coolant and replaced that host with a fresh new one. Now the new hose is starting to form this algae or whatever it is inside the hose. This is just a matter of days to a week here. Should not happen. I have used nothing else in the loop except the coolant recommended by Dogie in the first post. All my other C1's are running this same coolant and all 5 of them still have clear hoses. All except this one C1. It's like a cursed C1. What could be causing this green crap to stick on the inside of the hose? Any sugggestions? All the other hoses in the loop are fine. Just the one hose. It seems every weekend I have a weird baffling issue with this C1. I guess it doesn't like me. Here is a picture so you know what I'm talking about.
Hmm. The presence of algae suggests you've got open air access somewhere. Has your fluid level been dropping over time? Fluid level has been fine since I filled it only 3/4 of the way. Soon as those air pockets start to fill up in the radiator. I notice the reservoir rise up a little. The question is, why is it happening to only one tube in the loop? All the other ones are fine. This one C1 is making me nuts. I haven't had to touch to the other ones since I got them. This one running in my kitchen for a little heat I've had to spend quite some time on it.
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Wait, you mounted a fan on top of another fan? Are they both blowing in the same direction? I'd love to buy 1 or 2 of these rigs, but I just can't have the noise. That's what I love about the C1's. Have to deal with a pump and coolant, but you can't even tell it is in the room. Runs Silent.
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I've missed Bitcointalk Zvisha implemented the scheduler, please give it a try: http://www.spondoolies-tech.com/blogs/technical-blogAlso, we're doing soft launch of our cloud mining offerings. It's partnership with Genesis Mining. We're brining small amount of hash power online in our Israeli DC. Upon selling of contracts, we'll ship mining gear to cover the contracts to Genesis Mining DC in Iceland. Guy so are you like the rest of the industry...getting completely out of the 'consumer' end of the mining equip side (ie no token type sp20 units anymore or equiv in the future for those dense of us who would like to at least 'try' to home mine in the future..yeah yeah...I know still dream about 500 usd btc where this may be possible) or has that dream left the barn .....like all the other asic manufacturer's seem to have stated as well? We still expect most of our revenues to come from hardware sales. We got a lot of requests for cloud mining offerings, and we believe we're doing it the right way by partnering with Genesis Mining. Yes Marco is good people they do have a lot of experience and mining power already on the network. They are very professional unlike other offering in the "cloud". Genesis Mining is the most trustable cloud mining provider and I'm proud about this partnership. I know Genesis Mining management personally and I consider them friends. Isn't cloud hosting created for the company that hosts the mining rigs to make money? If that's the case, how does the user who bought into the contract make any money. I highly doubt you would put up cloud hosting knowing you would be losing money. It is just like the slot machines in a Casino. People may think they are winning money, but the house always wins, always.
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Bubbleman is back! I bought 6 total C1's and I have just one that constantly gives me problems. I haven't cleared the bubble situation completely yet, because soon as I move my radiator around all the air pockets that accumulated over time spits out into the pump, creating more bubbles. The highest temperature I've seen on it was 41C, so I won't worry about it much. And it is hashing over 1000Gh/s but have to keep the voltages at 755 on all of them to get that speed, which uses more electricity. I have to check out my electric bill soon to see what I'm paying, I could be wasting money here not even realizing yet. And yet, another question. On ALL my C1's I have all the tubes are still clear. You can see right through them. No residue or anything on the inside, EXCEPT that one damn C1 I'm always having trouble with. While I was troubleshooting my bubble issue I noticed the hose going from the miner to the radiator was a weird color. So I emptied out some of the coolant and replaced that host with a fresh new one. Now the new hose is starting to form this algae or whatever it is inside the hose. This is just a matter of days to a week here. Should not happen. I have used nothing else in the loop except the coolant recommended by Dogie in the first post. All my other C1's are running this same coolant and all 5 of them still have clear hoses. All except this one C1. It's like a cursed C1. What could be causing this green crap to stick on the inside of the hose? Any sugggestions? All the other hoses in the loop are fine. Just the one hose. It seems every weekend I have a weird baffling issue with this C1. I guess it doesn't like me. Here is a picture so you know what I'm talking about.
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Ah water pumps Glad to hear you got the bubbler to subside I figured it was either trapped air in the radiator or a return air feed leak. There are tons of replacement pump options available but these are by far the cheapest pumps on the market. Swifttech makes some nice pumps but they are pricey. Check ebay and search syscool and swifttech as well as koolance. In theory any 12v water pump would work as long as it meets the minimum specs of the syscool pump I know. The quality is pretty low. I did buy one from ebay for $40 just to see how it performs and for a secondary back up. All brand name pumps are mega expensive since it really is supposed to be a high quality product.
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Right now my bubble problem seemed to resolve itself. After shaking the radiator and turning it around and back and forth it looked like the last of the air is out of the system. I let the system run for 24 hours and the bubbles subsided.
Yeah that sounds about right. Sometimes you really have to rubik's cube the hell out of radiators/blocks to get the air to go through the entire path. Temps are 37-38, but hashing went down for some reason to around 900, and I have 5 X's. Miner is already at 755v. Is there another trick to get hashing speed back up to 1000+? What happens if I change the freq to 256 and put the volts back to 725?
1) Try a hard reset (power supply) 2) Voltage to 725 and a hard reset 3) If that board STILL is dropping out, PM BitmainWarranty to arrange an RMA. Be sure to link to your post describing the issues, what type and how many miners you wish to have repaired/replaced and your bitmaintech.com order number. You'll only have to send back that individual hashing board, although make sure you've got some thermal paste to reapply the new PCB. Also, I still think the pump was partially damaged during shipping. It does make a light grinding noise when it runs. It shouldn't be making that noise, as my other two are silent. Can I purchase one of these pumps from the Colorado service center? I know this replacement has a 90 warranty, but my guess that grinding noise is going to get worse and just fail, since it is the same exact noise my other failed pump. I guess time will tell.
I posted another picture of the same bubble pump, but around 30 hours later.
That could also be a nice bubble in the impeller, which will tend to stay there. Tilt it about and see if you can get it out (outlet facing up if possible). I'm unsure if you can purchase additional pumps from the US but they do have replacements there if you need them. What's happening is after I wiggle the heck out of my radiator and get ALL the air out of it, work great for a little bit but after a good 10-12 hours the radiator accumulates air pockets. Large enough that I can see my reservoir raise up a little bit. If I shake gently turn the radiator upside down again I can see a huge amount of air bubbles come back out of the radiator. So, somewhere inside the radiator air is being trapped once when there was liquid by itself. Does it matter what port you have the incoming flow going into the radiator, top or bottom? I've seen pictures of both. I'll just wait and see what happens. There is a 90 day warranty on this pump which died from a pump that had a one year warranty on it. Warranties just dropping like flies here. I went from 8 months to 3 months. This is why the consumer always feels we've turned around and bent over. Sorry, but the original warranty "should" still be in place, not lowered. I'll try the hard reset later. You mean the small hole above the Ethernet port?
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Right now my bubble problem seemed to resolve itself. After shaking the radiator and turning it around and back and forth it looked like the last of the air is out of the system. I let the system run for 24 hours and the bubbles subsided. I believe the cause was me, being impatient and not waiting long enough and/or not trying hard enough to get all the air out of the radiator. Temps are 37-38, but hashing went down for some reason to around 900, and I have 5 X's. Miner is already at 755v. Is there another trick to get hashing speed back up to 1000+? What happens if I change the freq to 256 and put the volts back to 725? Also, I still think the pump was partially damaged during shipping. It does make a light grinding noise when it runs. It shouldn't be making that noise, as my other two are silent. Can I purchase one of these pumps from the Colorado service center? I know this replacement has a 90 warranty, but my guess that grinding noise is going to get worse and just fail, since it is the same exact noise my other failed pump. I guess time will tell. I posted another picture of the same bubble pump, but around 30 hours later.
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BitmainWarranty, I think I have a problem with my replacement pump or some yet explained issue that we need to resolve. The pump I just replaced is now doing the same exact thing that my father's pump is doing, making a bubble bath. I'm pretty sure I can visually see the problem and will attach a picture showing you what I mean. What the coolant enters the reservoir from the radiator and hits the diverter it causes cavitation/bubbles. And when that keeps happening the bubbles/foam are a constant and that is not good for the pump itself. If the pump keeps pumping bubbles, it will eventually fail very soon. I even have changed the hoses AND changed the position of them also. Put the top hose on the bottom and the bottom on the top. Same thing. Bubbles. This is very strange, since both of my other C1's have no bubbles at all. I have used the same exact coolant (the same being used in my others C1's) and even emptied that coolant out and used another new bottle for testing. In the picture I provided, I circled a huge bubble that the diverter makes when it gets hit with the incoming coolant. This particular C1 always had 'some' bubbles, but not like this. My other two C1's have zero bubbles. Nothing at all. The only thing I can think of is a defective pump again OR something in my loop is causing micro-bubbles inside the radiator or C1 itself that I cannot see. Is there anyway I can get an RMA for the pump I just received and when I send back my original broken pump I can send back both of them. I made the image very large so it is easy to see. You'll see one very large bubble circled along with all the other small ones all over. EDIT: I just changed all hoses, made sure all connections were solid and everything was fine. Still a bubble making machine. I would love to figure this out. EDIT#2: When I opened the tyvex bag the pump was shipped in the pump box was broken open completely and the pump was out of the box. It was still wrapped in the thin bubble wrap but it could have been possibly damaged during shipping. The pump box didn't seem to be taped properly, hence the box coming open.
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Anyone know the screw thread size for the radiator (to connect fans to it)? I purchased some M3 .50 (the same size my other radiators from another brand) and some M4 .70 screws (the size of the one on the Antminers) today, but neither is correct, it seems to be somewhere in between.
The screw is custom-made and not standard,you can't purchase it from market yourself. That really sucks. Your almost better off maybe using some kind of glue or really skinny tie-wraps. I mean the screws "have" to have a size. They can't be custom to the point where their size isn't on the metric or imperial scale.
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I have another question. My father owns 3 C1's and one of his pumps is producing high amounts of foam/bubbles. Is there a trick to get rid of these foam/bubbles? It was actually running fine since he got them, but this foam/bubble thing just started. We are using this coolant. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESNVNHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I also want to thank BitmainWarranty for such a fast turn around on my broken pump. I reported it broken yesterday and today I received a replacement pump. I'll be installing it tomorrow. Thank you. It must be filled enough such that the return tube's flow diverter is submerged. He has three C1's. He knows how to operate and maintain them and knows he needs enough coolant in the reservoir. I made sure of that myself. But today his pump just stopped working. It would only run for about 20 minutes then do a complete stop. The pump was the problem and that was what was making all the damn bubbles. It was causing cavitation somewhere, creating all the bubbles and foam. No other moving parts in the system, so the pump is prime suspect, especially when it just fails to operate, something must be wrong inside. So right after one of my pumps died, his died two days later. Syscooling, these pumps are rated for 50,000 hours. That's 2 full years of operating at 24/7 365 days a year. If you are manufacturing them yourselves, better start using better materials or re-design to eliminate failures so early.
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We are all delusional. Now, since bitcoin is in the dumps and most people are losing money actually keeping them running we start to call them our heaters in the winter time in the US. It's like we make up excuses to keep them running when we all know an efficient heating system in a house is much better hear then a few electrical spot heaters around making tons of noise.
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thanks. you're right i really dont spend much time on the forum anymore. just a quick look in to see any urgent updates but mostly im only here when stuff goes wrong. a bit gutted i missed the opportunity to +ROI on my SPTech rigs, as im still MONTHS away from reaching BE point. and i'll be shutting down my ants in the next week or two leaving me with just 1x SP30 & 2x SP20/E im looking fwd to the lowered decibels but not enjoying the lower income at all!! but i cant justify buying more hardware now and my BTC buy in price was double digits so i dont feel like buying more BTC no matter how low some people say it is. triple figs just aint 'that' low to me. oh to see >500 again... I missed the paycoin gig also, so you aren't the only one. It looked a bit confusing to me, but for those returns people were getting I would have figured it out somehow. That's about what everyone is doing right now, powering off their units. I doubt anyone would even be interested in buying a couple 2 SP10's. What to do with them. Come on bitcoin, give us a break and another long ride, one more time before you die into the black hole.
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I have another question. My father owns 3 C1's and one of his pumps is producing high amounts of foam/bubbles. Is there a trick to get rid of these foam/bubbles? It was actually running fine since he got them, but this foam/bubble thing just started. We are using this coolant. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESNVNHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I also want to thank BitmainWarranty for such a fast turn around on my broken pump. I reported it broken yesterday and today I received a replacement pump. I'll be installing it tomorrow. Thank you.
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Stock S5 is 74 db, its a lot! You need to change the fan to drop the sound. Delta seems to be the best one! Holy cow, one fan makes that much noise. I was a little interested in picking one of these up, but a constant noise that high is a problem. Technology will take care of the electrical problem (how much they hog up), but what's going to take care of cooling these things silently. Whoever makes something like that will have a winner!
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Please keep the cap closed!!!!! if you are worried about the pressure, may be wait until 30's then close the cap nice and tight!!
Are you worried about losing too much coolant because of evaporation? The cap is closed. But excess pressure can escape. I would like to know the reason for this also. WHY does the fill cap need to be closed and tight? I would rather have a loose fill cap and a running miner then one that is slowly building up pressure ready to pop. That's why cars have a vent in their cooling system. System gets just a little warmer then normal, the coolant will flow into the over flow tank and not put too much pressure on all your hoses/connections. If the fill cap is screwed on but not sealed it would take quite a long time for any evaporation to happen that would ever cause a problem. All you need to do is check up on them once in a while, that's all.
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