How much do they sell them for?

Its something Ive considered and I may still do but as per how the gui is currently changed around, it requires having 1 copy of each version(of all the website files) stored on the pi ... anytime I need to impliment a change to the webgui's its a PITA to have to go through and change each one of those sites and hope to god I didnt miss something LOL!
If theres an easy way that I come up w/ that doesnt entail so much works then Ill impliment the changing of webgui option. For now Im mostly focusing on making sure "Energy Saver" works as intended so its top on the priority list atm =)

The firmware already takes into account temperatures as you suggested, this can easily be accomplished by selecting the appropriate maximum DCDC temp. It will clock up / down based on the temp specified.
Also, from what u propose, sounds like a lot of unneeded work.
The user can already save various backup "templates" to their  PC and they can restore then reboot as they desire ... if the DCDC temp controls aint enough.

oh shit the development of it has halted?!?!? =(

Im gonna go out on a limb here and guess you havent seen my unofficial insanely awesome firmware for the Titan =)
It does everything u mentioned above... for the most part automatically.

https://github.com/GenTarkin/Titan  - is the informational Github


Also, Im working on the next release which will feature "Energy Saver" ... basically it performs  per-die voltage tuning.


My progress and conversations w/ the community largely take place in this thread: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=170332.41700

One of the original reasons I started this project is because my titan when I purchased it had "dropping die" problems too and it became a pita. After figuring out the DCDC's per die were fully programmable I came up w/ a method to perform a power cycle on the die's DCDC's to bring it back online, w/o requiring a power cycle of the entire rig.
From there, w/ many supporters, donations & people buying my firmware ...the project grew into something way more "intelligent" then Id ever expected.

Further notes:
1. for 325mhz I recommened NEVER running it at -0.0366v for an entire cube!! One or 2 dies is fine if needed .. the current draw on the DCDC's is over their rated limit, the current draw on the 6pin PCIE connector is already well beyond spec even at lower voltage.
2. 105C is WAYYYYY to hot for these DCDC's given the current we are pulling from them. 85C is the max I recommend. The reason is, the DCDC's lifespan is drastically decreased if asking them to deliver their max current at temps around 85C and higher.  IIRC at 85C ish, .7v these DCDC's are derated to like 35Amps max.  Theres a graph in the documentation for these DCDC's that show what Im talking about.
3. At 42Amps and higher the DCDC's effeciency start decline RAPIDLY!
4. 46Amps is their max before they start "sputtering current"
5. 50Amps is their overcurrent shutdown point I believe.

I asked her before, shes definitely open to the idea =)

I used to play airsoft - high end airsoft. Long all day matches w/ 50+ players and various battle scenarios w/ LAV's n various other military vehicles.
The highest power rifles in airsoft are the sniper rifles. They often use very heavy bb's (.3-.4gram) in weight, traveling at 500fps or more ... there are usually minimal distance engagement rules(generally 50ft minimum) due to their danger up close. They can easily reach beyond 150ft+ accurately.

The next up are your medium range AEG's (electric airsoft guns) ... Which through the entire spectrum of options generally shoot .2-.25gram bb's @ 400-500fps (most fields I think still limit to 400ish in the states) for their matches. These are used for anywhere from pointblank(frowned upon but people still do) to 100ft. The types of AEG's available in this category break down to:
A. 10-20lb SAW (squad automatic weapon) .. like machineguns etc that are used for suppression fire in matches(much like real life role in battle). These generally have 2000+ bb count magazines which are electrically fed internally and can be built up to have really good accuracy as well and/or an insane ROF. But they are generally built really beefy internally so their components can withstand holding the trigger down for as many bb's as needed w/o causing insane wear on the gearbox etc....

B. The most common type of AEG is of course the assault rifle platform. These are seen most common in all matches. There are hundreds of airsoft AEG replicas that look pretty dang close to their real firearm counterparts. If you invest into the $300+ range of AEG rifles you get into replicas that are metal, the look , feel & weight are often true to their real firearm couterpart. Serious players often tweak the internals of the AEG rifles ... for velocity, accuracy & ROF.

C. There are many SMG AEG's out there as well, which can nearly all be modded like assault rifles.

D. Then there are pistol AEG's ...which are usually meh......

Next there are ur close quarter compressed air powered guns, such as pistols ... some SMG's ... these can range all the way from shit in quality to very nice in quality. One that I own is an MP7, officially licensed from H&K, it uses green gas ... or propane, I roll w/ propane cuz its cheaper and largely the same stuff iirc.

Its surprisinly extremely accurate, internally functions very much like a real firearm (has recoiling bolt for working of the action), is loud , shoots at  a rate of 22RPS & its fps is over 400 stock LOL! its nuts. Thats on the nice end of gas guns...

Lastly there are your spring powered airsoft guns - the cheapie freaking airsoft guns u see at big box stores like fucking walmart n shit. Little kids usually are introduced to airsoft w/ these. They grow up from there and learn to use real airsoft guns in matches =P
**Although, there may be some very nice spring powered sniper rifles now... not sure.

2 years in the making, this beautiful 3 piece set is up for grabs!
This is the ORIGINAL, not a print.
Each piece measures approx 20"x20"
Selling only as a complete set.

Shipping to CONUS only, for now ... if interested beyond CONUS ... send pm maybe be able to work out shipping elsewhere.
Price:

Please post or send PM if interested!!!!

About the artist:
Shes my girlfriend.
Shes an amazing girlfriend =P
shes been very passionate about art for decades. Extremely talented and skilled in her craft!

I wonder if its quieter then the SP20 @ 10% fanspeed.... hrm...

Was wonder the same about noise =)

Ok guys.... voting time!!!!!
This webgui design:


or

STOCK webgui on next release??




This is a comparison of the LOOKS only, not the actual stats layout, the proposed one is missing stuff simply cuz its not installed yet.

Bit of an update on "Energy Saver"   (Automatic voltage per die tuning) ... its now going further testing on other Titans, Im working through the bugs ... fun times!
All in all... Im surprised by how well its working thus far!

The next official release will be when "Energy Saver" is functional enough on a decent amount of Titans.

Below is a preview w/o new skin of course. But, shows the advanced page goodies Ive been working on =)

Something interesting Ive "fixed" along the way for this autotune.
I discovered most i2c locks that cause a reboot of the pi .... are actually because not the pi's i2c bus locking up but because of the controller locking up.
Good news is, I found a way to reinitialize the controller without having to reboot the pi =)
Of course if the controller needs constant reinitialization, then its either bad or the cable is bad/not connected properly.
This will be a feature of my next release as well =)

Once "energy saver" completes it will say Status: Finished
At that point the user can safely change voltages as they desire.
If the user ever unchecks the "enabled" checkbox in the energy saver area then the "pre energy saver" settings will be applied. If the box is rechecked to be enabled again then it will simply restore the finished state of the "energy saver", at which point if using any user tweaked settings you would have to put those back in =P
I may put in an option in the "energy saver" box to allow user to override the previous finished run of "energy saver" therefore having "energy saver" run all over again.

As per autotune(energy saver), if the die is unstable at any voltage lower than -.0366 then autotune will simply revert its voltage and reapply then stop further tuning of that die. It will go onto tune the rest of ur dies.

Yes when u turn on DCDC temp monitoring, the max applies to all DCDC's, if any DCDC's go over that ... it will throttle down the clock speed till the temp is under the threshold. Likewise when temps lower again by 10% less than the threshold, the clocks will be raised on dies which were previously throttled.
85C is the safe max - for longest DCDC life.

Little teaser for yall .... =)

Hehe, my other ones fired up no prob =) But, yeah is weird.

Now, Im wondering is there any replacement fan I can stick in these to make em quieter? Even at 10% FAN they still loud to live within the same room.
My temps are really under control at 10%, only 50C on the on side =P

WOW! Thanks a ton for that tip! I just let its intake sit in front of one of my other SP20's exhaust for bout half an hour. Started right up =)

Hi all, I have 1 SP20E That will power up, the ethernet lights flicker, but the status lights dont do anything at all, the unit just sits at 100% fan speed and every once in a while I see it try to reboot(at least the ethernet port lights go out then come back on).

Any way to bring this thing back?