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Author Topic: Swedish ASIC miner company kncminer.com  (Read 3040562 times)
vesperwillow
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December 06, 2013, 04:46:24 PM
 #25241


no hes saying its actually bent, its hard to see in the pics but i know what he means. the pipes would barely contact the chip

Henchman24 kindof gets what I'm saying. Even if it's bent, it can be re-aligned. And if it can't be realigned, it was likely not damaged in delivery, but a defect from the OEM.

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December 06, 2013, 04:55:11 PM
 #25242

I think "bent" wasn't the best word to use.

Some copper pipes are slightly off level = not even surface.
The surface of each pipe is completely flat = no damage there.

So tapping them on top of the cooler might make them move downwards, thus alligning them on a horizontal plane.

I might try that a bit later.
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December 06, 2013, 04:58:50 PM
 #25243

I think "bent" wasn't the best word to use.

Some copper pipes are slightly off level = not even surface.
The surface of each pipe is completely flat = no damage there.

So tapping them on top of the cooler might make them move downwards, thus alligning them on a horizontal plane.

I might try that a bit later.

Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

Mine was damaged as the front screw on the support bar wasn't screwed in, so the heatsink has free reign to bounce around. It's already back on it's way to KNC.
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December 06, 2013, 05:17:45 PM
 #25244

I think "bent" wasn't the best word to use.

Some copper pipes are slightly off level = not even surface.
The surface of each pipe is completely flat = no damage there.

So tapping them on top of the cooler might make them move downwards, thus alligning them on a horizontal plane.

I might try that a bit later.

Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

Mine was damaged as the front screw on the support bar wasn't screwed in, so the heatsink has free reign to bounce around. It's already back on it's way to KNC.

I wonder what kind of people work at the factory. How can you forget to screw everything right or leave the plastic cover on and still apply thermal paste all over it. Even a blind man will feel the plastic being on and remove it.
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December 06, 2013, 05:20:05 PM
 #25245

I think "bent" wasn't the best word to use.

Some copper pipes are slightly off level = not even surface.
The surface of each pipe is completely flat = no damage there.

So tapping them on top of the cooler might make them move downwards, thus alligning them on a horizontal plane.

I might try that a bit later.

Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

Mine was damaged as the front screw on the support bar wasn't screwed in, so the heatsink has free reign to bounce around. It's already back on it's way to KNC.

I wonder what kind of people work at the factory. How can you forget to screw everything right or leave the plastic cover on and still apply thermal paste all over it. Even a blind man will feel the plastic being on and remove it.

They're not looking to catch these small misalginments. They're likely popping the stuff together, and turning it on for like a minute to make sure it "seems right". They were under a huge deadline.

This is part of the reason I believe KNC is making such a vague prediction of the next shipment. They know the crap they have to face with the new product, and they want more time to get things right.

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December 06, 2013, 05:40:21 PM
 #25246

I think "bent" wasn't the best word to use.

Some copper pipes are slightly off level = not even surface.
The surface of each pipe is completely flat = no damage there.

So tapping them on top of the cooler might make them move downwards, thus alligning them on a horizontal plane.

I might try that a bit later.

After bending them back mostly right, you will still need to sand/lap the bottom. Be careful not to sand it down too much, if that gas in there escapes, its game over. Actually, that may already have happenend if there is only the tiniest of cracks. Ive ruined a fair number of GPU coolers trying to bend the heatpipes on a certain type of cooler to elevate them above some high caps on my cards. No visible damage, but cooling performance was terrible and you could simply feel that some pipes no longer got warm like the others, despite perfect contact surface.
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December 06, 2013, 05:54:57 PM
 #25247

Could you use the flat bar (on the processor side) and the integrated bracket that came unglued to make a sandwich around the heatpipes?  Then use a c-clamp or locking pliers (vise-grips) to squeeze all four pipes back into proper alignment?
Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

or you could just buy a new one.

to easy.. job done  Wink
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December 06, 2013, 05:58:48 PM
 #25248

just received this email from KNC...

Quote
Dear KnCMiner reseller.

We would like to inform you that we have launched the reseller portal, you can now login to the following address: http://reseller.kncminer.com  using the details below:

Email:xxxxxxxx@xxxxxxx.xxx

Password: xxxXXxxxXX

If you have any questions or doubts please do not hesitate in contacting support at: customerservice@kncminer.com

Regards

KnCMiner team
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December 06, 2013, 06:02:58 PM
 #25249

Could you use the flat bar (on the processor side) and the integrated bracket that came unglued to make a sandwich around the heatpipes?  Then use a c-clamp or locking pliers (vise-grips) to squeeze all four pipes back into proper alignment?
Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

or you could just buy a new one.

to easy.. job done  Wink

That's crazy talk, man!  Just too damn easy for these hardy young DIYers Cheesy  He could save a couple bucks if he doesn't cook this expensive piece of almost irreplaceable electronic equipment  Lol Cheesy


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December 06, 2013, 06:07:20 PM
 #25250


I wonder what have UPS been doing with the package. Play football?



Just watch the latest video  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qFjzb-sbH8
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December 06, 2013, 06:09:13 PM
 #25251

Could you use the flat bar (on the processor side) and the integrated bracket that came unglued to make a sandwich around the heatpipes?  Then use a c-clamp or locking pliers (vise-grips) to squeeze all four pipes back into proper alignment?
Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

or you could just buy a new one.

to easy.. job done  Wink

That's crazy talk, man!  Just too damn easy for these hardy young DIYers Cheesy  He could save a couple bucks if he doesn't cook this expensive piece of almost irreplaceable electronic equipment  Lol Cheesy



Actually I already ordered one for the damaged that came from Phoenix. I will try to fix the November damaged cooler and if I don't success I will order another one.
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December 06, 2013, 06:30:49 PM
 #25252

Could you use the flat bar (on the processor side) and the integrated bracket that came unglued to make a sandwich around the heatpipes?  Then use a c-clamp or locking pliers (vise-grips) to squeeze all four pipes back into proper alignment?
Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

or you could just buy a new one.

to easy.. job done  Wink

That's crazy talk, man!  Just too damn easy for these hardy young DIYers Cheesy  He could save a couple bucks if he doesn't cook this expensive piece of almost irreplaceable electronic equipment  Lol Cheesy



Actually I already ordered one for the damaged that came from Phoenix. I will try to fix the November damaged cooler and if I don't success I will order another one.

Yes, I certainly agree with a new cooler.  My suggestion was meant as a temp/bridging solution.
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December 06, 2013, 06:38:18 PM
 #25253

question

november jupiter with case on or case off
runs better???/

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December 06, 2013, 06:39:23 PM
Last edit: December 06, 2013, 07:03:23 PM by Bogart
 #25254

I tried forcing the pipes by hand to allign so they make a flat surface, but they are not moving and I am afraid that if I apply too much force I can do even more damage.
I might get a small hammer, put a piece of rubber or other cushioning material and hit the end of the piper on the top of the cooler downwards.

That's a precision machined surface.  You will never be able to get it flat enough by hand.  Just buy a new cooler, and hopefully, get KnC to reimburse you for the damaged one.


You could take it to a machine shop and have them mill it flat again for you.

Or, as others have suggested, just order a replacement.

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December 06, 2013, 06:41:44 PM
 #25255

question

november jupiter with case on or case off
runs better???/

I dunno - I'm waiting for UPS as we speak. Hopefully I know the answer soon.  Grin

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December 06, 2013, 06:43:19 PM
 #25256

So received my Nov Jupiter.

Can't connect to machine by either SSH or webpage.  It is assigned an IP address just can't connect. Even ping gets no response but not sure if the BBB is setup to respond to ping.

If I disconnect all 4 ASIC boards I can connect to the host and access web gui with no issues.  
Reconnect the ASIC boards, can't connect.  
Tried connecting just one ASIC board with same results.
Tried two different power supplies with the same results.

Anyone had anything like this or am I just SOL?
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December 06, 2013, 06:44:23 PM
 #25257

Could you use the flat bar (on the processor side) and the integrated bracket that came unglued to make a sandwich around the heatpipes?  Then use a c-clamp or locking pliers (vise-grips) to squeeze all four pipes back into proper alignment?
Just use a full tube of thermal paste! That'll fix it right up! lol

or you could just buy a new one.

to easy.. job done  Wink

That's crazy talk, man!  Just too damn easy for these hardy young DIYers Cheesy  He could save a couple bucks if he doesn't cook this expensive piece of almost irreplaceable electronic equipment  Lol Cheesy



Actually I already ordered one for the damaged that came from Phoenix. I will try to fix the November damaged cooler and if I don't success I will order another one.
Indeed strange. The cooler that was separately wrapped, is the one I bought from Amazon, and brand-new. I'm guessing that one of the attached coolers got forced backward/forward during shipping in a violent drop or something...  the weight of the loose cooler may have added to the weight of the cooler it was next to, causing the bend during a drop. Or even was a defect, and I never saw it.  I crammed as much bubble wrap as I could humanly fit into the box...Next time, no extra stuff in the case...  sorry to hear Cypher.  You got such a super deal though, it should be no problem for a heatsink...  The entire box was  insured for 10 grand... but a 30 dollar claim would hardly be worth it. I'm actually kinda jealous that the "finicky" extra  board is ace now, and totally scratching my head..... which for me, adds further speculation to the heatsink....       tunung suite?
You da man Cypher!


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December 06, 2013, 06:51:36 PM
 #25258

Does anyone know what the typical support e-mail reply time is nowadays?  I had a nice fireworks display on one of my Oct. Jupiter's when upgrading PSUs and haven't heard anything from them for a couple of days now aside from the auto reply. Just curious how long it will take to issue RMA.

What the bloody did you do? All you have to do is swap cables.

And that is precisely what i did.  I was going from a Coolermaster v1000 to a nice Corsair AX1200 gold.  Brand new out of the box never used, plug it all in, hit the switch and poof.......Fire!  That was my good Jupiter too. Sad

Here is the aftermath.


For this reason I think the plugs having both a jumper and a power resistor to the 3v line are a very good bet.  I know you followed instructions, but did you put in the jumper then fire up the supply and check that the voltage was there on the 12V, then shut down the supply, plug the power supply into the Jupiter, then switch on the supply?

If my theory that the current ramp, preventing current surge producing a voltage spike sufficient to blow the caps, the current ramp to ramp up current on the 12V line is actually controlled by a voltage ramp of 0 to 1V produced on the 3.3V line (because the 3.3V will be up to regulated voltage before the 5V or 12V) then putting in the jumper, turning on the supply to check if the jumper is correct and voltage being supplied, then shut down before plugging into Jupiter, since the supply expects that it is plugged into a motherboard having a load on the 3.3V line, it expects that when the supply is turned off the 3.3V line filter capacitors will drain out thru the motherboard.  That can't happen without a motherboard or a resistor to ground from the 3.3V line as well as the jumper.  

So, if  you check the jumper was correctly placed by looking for 12V on the 12V line, then shut down, plugged the supply into the Jupiter, and turned it on, the supply 3.3V line never drained and still had full voltage on its filter caps and the timed ramp voltage that controlled the ramp for the 12v current had remained at max, as if already having timed out its ramp, and BANG, instant max current.
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December 06, 2013, 06:55:40 PM
 #25259

That's it.... I'm selling my Corsair ax1200's... remember the HX series before?  I'm abandoning Corsair.
Too coincidental. Scary, because I always did the jumper test first, just as soy describes.. and he's absolutely correct saying those caps hold a charge!


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December 06, 2013, 06:56:21 PM
 #25260

So received my Nov Jupiter.

Can't connect to machine by either SSH or webpage.  It is assigned an IP address just can't connect. Even ping gets no response but not sure if the BBB is setup to respond to ping.

If I disconnect all 4 ASIC boards I can connect to the host and access web gui with no issues.  
Reconnect the ASIC boards, can't connect.  
Tried connecting just one ASIC board with same results.
Tried two different power supplies with the same results.

Anyone had anything like this or am I just SOL?

Have you tried all 4 ASIC boards individually (1 plugged in at a time)? I would try that first.

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