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Author Topic: [150+ PH] SlushPool (slushpool.com); World's First Mining Pool  (Read 4294303 times)
Lucko
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April 27, 2014, 01:04:13 PM
 #16421

Are you by any chance connected to 46.28.205.80? If so restart your miner and read posts above yours.
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vodic62
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April 27, 2014, 01:41:35 PM
 #16422

It looks like my share count is not reflectingon the Slush.  anyone having this as well?

Because SLush changed algorithm and table "workers" is not working as it should now. It is showing shares in last 60 minutes, not last round. So there is still almost the same values in column "Current shares". But we have bigger problem. When you are pirated the column "Current shares" shows 0.
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April 27, 2014, 03:34:04 PM
 #16423

-Dave

Not been affected yet by this, thank you for heads up, but what I have done is put a block in my router from communicating with that dot addy, so hopefully the worst that would happen now is they would go offline rather than mine for someone else.

-Graham
[/quote]

BTW Great thinking my 2 / and 1/2 erupters just stop working and submitting ANYTHING
to ANYONE  so if in case it's true Slush pool did great job at making this meaningless
for anyone to try again GJ

Just enable powersave mode in case this happens again and you  can't solve it so
you don't waste your gear for nothing.
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April 27, 2014, 04:34:14 PM
 #16424

I wonder why Slush felt the need to bring the hashrate out to 8 decimal places.  Huh
KNK
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April 27, 2014, 04:50:42 PM
 #16425

I wonder why Slush felt the need to bring the hashrate out to 8 decimal places.  Huh
It's not ... its 12 digits + the dot (total 13 symbols), so if you see 8 it means your hashrate above 10 and below 100 GH Wink

BTC tips: 1KNK1akhpethhtcyhKTF2d3PWTQDUWUzHE
necro_nemesis
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April 27, 2014, 04:52:38 PM
 #16426

I wonder why Slush felt the need to bring the hashrate out to 8 decimal places.  Huh

Depends how mush power you have. I have none..... I wish.  Grin

The day slush indicates my hash rate in integers I declare I win.
ccynthia
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April 27, 2014, 08:37:26 PM
 #16427

Does anyone know where I can get a bitmain S! Antiminer repaired? Seems one of the caps or something popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead. Or is it just a waste and for parts now? 1st one to go bad. Cry
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April 27, 2014, 10:03:57 PM
 #16428

Does anyone know where I can get a bitmain S! Antiminer repaired? Seems one of the caps or something popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead. Or is it just a waste and for parts now? 1st one to go bad. Cry

I have replaced bad capacitors in computers and TV's for years, its actually quite simple.

Can you read the numbers on the side?

I would attempt to help you or buy it to try and fix it, Its been fun tinkering and learning how some of these miners work.

1FQkmrwQ7yf9MKGLsAUhY2jgMT8WjepwL7
Searing
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April 28, 2014, 12:09:06 AM
 #16429

Does anyone know where I can get a bitmain S! Antiminer repaired? Seems one of the caps or something popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead. Or is it just a waste and for parts now? 1st one to go bad. Cry


local univ Electronic Engineering or EET tech at a votech for beer pizza and a donation

anyone that can repair NEW tv's with motherboards made by robots (ie you use a microscope to fix such) tough to find in Minnesota only 3 guys that
can do such

may not be as hard as the above but what I would do ...have local univ and know one of the 3 guys in MN that can do #2 on TV repair in the state

worth a shot..not like they can break it worse..and if like I heard KNC just sending you new stuff w/o having to return broke stuff you could get lucky

Searing


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necro_nemesis
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April 28, 2014, 12:31:12 AM
 #16430

A cap popped out could of been the way it was manufactured. The quality isn't anything to admire. As long as it made sufficient connection and passed testing it was shipped. Could be the problem or depending on how it appears or it could be a red herring unfortunately with these things. I've seen components on Ants misaligned but just close enough to the pads to make contact for them to function.
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April 28, 2014, 01:05:21 AM
 #16431

Does anyone know where I can get a bitmain S! Antiminer repaired? Seems one of the caps or something popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead. Or is it just a waste and for parts now? 1st one to go bad. Cry

If it is infact a cap problem the top of the cap will be partially or fully open, it has a cross on top so it can release its guts when it gets a hit from generally external pwr spike on a new device- I say this without seeing an antminer and or could just be a faulty cap made in millions in some province in china.
If you can get clear access to the under side of where cap is located (undo some screws) get a soldering iron some solder and a solder sucker, Heat up old solder with some new solder (wire) the suck it all out with solder sucker.
Then google the part number and order online.

Caps pop for many reason internal and external, best not to draw conclusions about a companies workmanship unless you actually know what your talking about, caps resistors etc if hand/wave soldered do not always land perfectly straight and aligned. If an electronic component does make contact and works it is of course passed, electronics is not based on esthetics. Mass produced flat screen tv mobo gfx etc are made by robots and have less tolerance for components being off centre mainly due to the small amount of space they are jammed into and why they look so perfect when you open them up, I doubt antminer has robots, probably about 20 ppl all payed with half a bowl of rice and a bottle of water per day,, Jus jokin. Also caps are sometimes separated/pushed off centre when the board/s are put together to mitigate heat or allow other components to land nearby.

If cap pops again and your running off good clean pwr eg a decent pwr board not on same circuit as an aircon or heater then problem is most likely internal.

And have you contacted the supplier for an RA, you could be down for a while tho waiting or as said above they might just send you that pcb to screw in.
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April 28, 2014, 08:16:24 AM
 #16432

Does anyone know where I can get a bitmain S! Antiminer repaired? Seems one of the caps or something popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead. Or is it just a waste and for parts now? 1st one to go bad. Cry

If cap is the only reason for it's fault then it would be no problem and you can do it alone with semi-good quality soldering iron but caps in most cases blow like that (when it's just one) due to fault of component BEHIND them that draw their power.
Is it SMD (Surface mounted-tiny tiny  Cheesy) of regular (a little less in size than 1.5 V AAA battery?
Anyway transistors and MOSFETs can be changed too with low cost but you are better of getting someone qualified to do it (like a electronics repair shop).

We are talking about BIG Antminer not USB version right ?

If you try to fix it yourself make sure that you use new cap with more Voltage I.E. if an old one was 1500 mF 16 V replace with 1500 mf 25 V.

P.S. If it is cap on PSU part of the machine STAY AWAY FROM IT , high voltage current is not a thing to experiment with unless you know what you are doing (If it's 330mF 250 V for example it's PSU cap for sure).They can hold dangerous voltages inside them even if you unplugged the gear , it takes days for them to be fully empty and fixing those things can lead to even more catastrophic failure.
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April 28, 2014, 09:12:17 AM
 #16433

Does anyone know where I can get a bitmain S! Antiminer repaired? Seems one of the caps or something popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead. Or is it just a waste and for parts now? 1st one to go bad. Cry

If cap is the only reason for it's fault then it would be no problem and you can do it alone with semi-good quality soldering iron but caps in most cases blow like that (when it's just one) due to fault of component BEHIND them that draw their power.
Is it SMD (Surface mounted-tiny tiny  Cheesy) of regular (a little less in size than 1.5 V AAA battery?
Anyway transistors and MOSFETs can be changed too with low cost but you are better of getting someone qualified to do it (like a electronics repair shop).

We are talking about BIG Antminer not USB version right ?

If you try to fix it yourself make sure that you use new cap with more Voltage I.E. if an old one was 1500 mF 16 V replace with 1500 mf 25 V.

P.S. If it is cap on PSU part of the machine STAY AWAY FROM IT , high voltage current is not a thing to experiment with unless you know what you are doing (If it's 330mF 250 V for example it's PSU cap for sure).They can hold dangerous voltages inside them even if you unplugged the gear , it takes days for them to be fully empty and fixing those things can lead to even more catastrophic failure.

Guesses the above quote doesn't read but can only type,

DC has nothing to do with as per described in above quote that is AC stuff quoted, besides that its popped and has been off pwr for long enough for any other component to discharge, relax the 1st yr electronic tutorial, maybe if your talking about ballasts for discharge lamps and or tube TV's it applies, these units are fed DC and clearly the problem is not mentioned as psu but as the antminer.

For Ccynthia

Never mind the mind dump of the mF stuff,  

Also don't buy one of those heated solder suckers, just get a 10 dollar plastic one all up you can get away with a solder sucker Iron and solder for 40 bucks , to learn the soldering iron temp, practice melting some solder above some cardboard u want to be able to push wire on to iron at a slow pace and have it ball up on end of iron then wipe it off on a damp cloth, Just melt the new solder and it will melt the old.

1st year stuff, heat the pins not the board when replacing, pre-emptive for Gab

PM me and I can prob help you with a pic or 2, then your either on your way to an RA or a soldering Iron.  

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April 28, 2014, 09:35:38 AM
 #16434

Never even saw one in real life , i assumed it had it's own PSU board.

BTW did cap just LEAP out of it's socket because of bad soldering or does is look
swollen or is there something leaking from it's top / bottom ? If it's true than it's
gone but don't assume that leaking 250 V cap can't hold a dangerous charge even
if it looks bad.
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April 28, 2014, 09:59:46 AM
 #16435

Never even saw one in real life , i assumed it had it's own PSU board.

BTW did cap just LEAP out of it's socket because of bad soldering or does is look
swollen or is there something leaking from it's top / bottom ? If it's true than it's
gone but don't assume that leaking 250 V cap can't hold a dangerous charge even
if it looks bad.

Read mate just read, pleeease
"Quote"
Does anyone know where I can get a bitmain S! Antiminer repaired? Seems one of the caps or something popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead. Or is it just a waste and for parts now? 1st one to go bad. Cry
"Quote"

Even the 1/8 inch implies it is not 220/250v but 110v eg not AU/NZ.. Miners are running off DC even the big ass ones run off a AC to DC psu just like a computer or any other electronic equipment. there is no way on earth these ASICs could handle AC.

No point in mind dumping on people with pointless info in ones head, im sorry mate but really READ then RE read if it aint sync'ing.
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April 28, 2014, 10:08:43 AM
 #16436


Read mate just read, pleeease
"Quote"
Does anyone know where I can get a bitmain S! Antiminer repaired? Seems one of the caps or something popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead. Or is it just a waste and for parts now? 1st one to go bad. Cry
"Quote"

Sorry  Grin Any electronics repair shop should be able to do the job.BTW you can only test caps once they are completely out of the circuit.

One cap change + new cap shouldn't be too expensive (10 to 30 $ maybe) + they will
have to check everything else related so you'd be good to go.

If you have a local friend who knows something about it he could do it for you for free.
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April 28, 2014, 10:19:55 AM
 #16437


Read mate just read, pleeease
"Quote"
Does anyone know where I can get a bitmain S! Antiminer repaired? Seems one of the caps or something popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead. Or is it just a waste and for parts now? 1st one to go bad. Cry
"Quote"

Sorry  Grin Any electronics repair shop should be able to do the job.BTW you can only test caps once they are completely out of the circuit.

One cap change + new cap shouldn't be too expensive (10 to 30 $ maybe) + they will
have to check everything else related so you'd be good to go.

If you have a local friend who knows something about it he could do it for you for free.

You amaze me and I have been on safari and seen the stars through a telescope.

FYI u cannot test a visibly blown cap eg the 1/8 popping out bit,

If the person had a friend who knows something about it, Do you think they would be posting here.

To state the obvious only points out the dumbest person in the room and gives them great insight into your IQ.

Its moments like this you should seek shelter in a good book and please don't read an electronics book.

Grab a pillow mate, you have been weighed measured and found wanting thus branded "Junior Rocket Scientist"

Soz for my harshness but really
 
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April 28, 2014, 10:30:20 AM
 #16438

I never read "visibly blown cap" part , only cap 1/8 inch out of the board ...

Direct current can zap you nicely and blown cap can be tested (it will say BAD) but some of them CAN hold a charge (LESS charge though).

There are caps that don't even look bad but are actually empty and not working ,  to be completely sure you need something that can measure capacity (ability to hold electrons) and to do that you first need to remove cap from the electric circuit otherwise
god will know what are you measuring.    
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April 28, 2014, 10:33:36 AM
 #16439

I never read "visibly blown cap" part , only cap 1/8 inch out of the board ...

Direct current can zap you nicely and blown cap can be tested (it will say BAD).    

like I said,,

1/8 as mentioned states that it is a visibly blown cap, and that was somebody that is asking questions, you should go back to problem solving minescape or something.

And just for shits and giggles what instrument would you test a bad cap on that comes back with a result of "BAD"

why would you bother testing a visibly blown cap, not even would you waste your time in the path of problem solving

your boring now
Gabr1el
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April 28, 2014, 10:38:50 AM
 #16440

"popped out approx 1/8 inch and now shows as dead" doesn't spell blown , leaking and "shows as dead" can mean a lot of things.
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