Pistachio
Legendary
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Activity: 1456
Merit: 1000
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January 21, 2014, 12:40:45 AM |
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The power supply works.
So I got linked up now does anyone know how to configure this thing?
Try following this setup guide for the antminer S1. The OpenWrt works basically the same. Just do not try to overclock. https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=344970.0The main thing is changing the ip to work with your network and then adding your pool info.
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grumpy619
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January 21, 2014, 12:49:42 AM |
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Thank you I've tried to connect to the miner via wireless router and it is not working for some reason. I will try to use the writeup you suggested and hopefully I will get this thing mining. Thank you.
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BeerPimp
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Activity: 94
Merit: 10
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January 21, 2014, 01:09:55 AM |
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Thank you I've tried to connect to the miner via wireless router and it is not working for some reason. I will try to use the writeup you suggested and hopefully I will get this thing mining. Thank you.
You will probably have a hard time connecting it to your wireless router via the supplied wireless card inside. If you do get I bet a lot of people would appreciate a post on how it worked. If you really need wireless I would buy a wireless Ethernet adapter. I have a netgear n600 that I connect my slingbox with. It runs for months without needing a reboot. Even the Bitmain Antminer S1's wireless is super iffy.
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coinjipsey
Newbie
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Activity: 21
Merit: 0
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January 21, 2014, 01:16:57 AM |
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Should I try my corsair 650w psu's? Or will they burn up?
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udt89
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Activity: 98
Merit: 10
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January 21, 2014, 01:19:30 AM |
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mookyking
Newbie
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Activity: 9
Merit: 0
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January 21, 2014, 01:25:41 AM |
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Ordered one of these 1/7, received today in good shape. Funny to see on tracking it left Hong Kong at 9pm, arriving in USA 9am the same day.
No damage inside the unit, no loose cables, no broken caps, no bent corners. I took it apart to inspect it, there were no "fuse" labels silk screened on the ASIC boards, however there ARE 2 fuses in parallel at that location, they are marked P. A Google search shows that these are most likely 32volt 3amp fuses. There were some loose/cross-threaded screws holding the ASIC boards on the heatsinks and a loose wifi antenna to adjust and tighten. I added some cardboard and masking tape around the intake and exhaust fans to direct more air through the heatsinks, also taped the gap between the two heatsinks to make a sealed tunnel. Along the edge where the heatsinks are screwed to case I applied some thermal paste to try and increase heat dissipation. The fans start at full screaming loud speed at power up, but quickly quiet down to a normal "gaming computer with lots of fans" level. Reported temps stay in the mid 30s C. One of the fan cables connected to the TP-LINK board has had 12v and ground cut off at the connector, leaving the speed sense and PWM wires connected. The red and black fan power wires are soldered to the power board, presumably the TP-LINK cannot provide enough current to run 2 the large high speed fans. Both fans still slow to a lower noise level after booting up.
Btmine posted in an earlier post that the unit could run on a single power supply, this is not true. I tried with a single EVGA 1000watt 80+platinum power supply (12v 83amp single rail), with the 24 pin ATX motherboard connector in ATX_24P and nothing in the second ATX_24P_2 connector. The unit would power up but only use the 2nd blade, running at ~100GHS. Connecting a 2nd 750watt power supply to the ATX_24P_2 connector powered up both blades, it is now running at ~220GHS. If I were to splice up a 24 pin ATX motherboard power connector splitter and connect both connectors to a single power supply it would probably work, perhaps I will try it later.
1400Mhz seems to be the limit for these boards, at first they ran for a couple of hours at 1500Mhz but then became unstable, the unit seemed to be rebooting and spinning the fans up to full speed then back to normal over and over, speeds dropped to less than 150GHS. 1600Mhz was even worse, many of the match_work_count units on the api log page were hashing at very low levels. Everything was normal after switching back to 1400Mhz (~210-220GHS).
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mtnminer
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January 21, 2014, 01:30:00 AM |
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Thank you for this update on your delivery, glad to hear your runs well out of the box. I can hardly wait to get my five units.
Mtnminer
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BeerPimp
Member
Offline
Activity: 94
Merit: 10
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January 21, 2014, 01:32:29 AM |
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Ordered one of these 1/7, received today in good shape. Funny to see on tracking it left Hong Kong at 9pm, arriving in USA 9am the same day.
No damage inside the unit, no loose cables, no broken caps, no bent corners. I took it apart to inspect it, there were no "fuse" labels silk screened on the ASIC boards, however there ARE 2 fuses in parallel at that location, they are marked P. A Google search shows that these are most likely 32volt 3amp fuses. There were some loose/cross-threaded screws holding the ASIC boards on the heatsinks and a loose wifi antenna to adjust and tighten. I added some cardboard and masking tape around the intake and exhaust fans to direct more air through the heatsinks, also taped the gap between the two heatsinks to make a sealed tunnel. Along the edge where the heatsinks are screwed to case I applied some thermal paste to try and increase heat dissipation. The fans start at full screaming loud speed at power up, but quickly quiet down to a normal "gaming computer with lots of fans" level. Reported temps stay in the mid 30s C. One of the fan cables connected to the TP-LINK board has had 12v and ground cut off at the connector, leaving the speed sense and PWM wires connected. The red and black fan power wires are soldered to the power board, presumably the TP-LINK cannot provide enough current to run 2 the large high speed fans. Both fans still slow to a lower noise level after booting up.
Btmine posted in an earlier post that the unit could run on a single power supply, this is not true. I tried with a single EVGA 1000watt 80+platinum power supply (12v 83amp single rail), with the 24 pin ATX motherboard connector in ATX_24P and nothing in the second ATX_24P_2 connector. The unit would power up but only use the 2nd blade, running at ~100GHS. Connecting a 2nd 750watt power supply to the ATX_24P_2 connector powered up both blades, it is now running at ~220GHS. If I were to splice up a 24 pin ATX motherboard power connector splitter and connect both connectors to a single power supply it would probably work, perhaps I will try it later.
1400Mhz seems to be the limit for these boards, at first they ran for a couple of hours at 1500Mhz but then became unstable, the unit seemed to be rebooting and spinning the fans up to full speed then back to normal over and over, speeds dropped to less than 150GHS. 1600Mhz was even worse, many of the match_work_count units on the api log page were hashing at very low levels. Everything was normal after switching back to 1400Mhz (~210-220GHS).
The way to run with one PSU is by someway getting a second 24pin connected to that PSU. That is what people keep asking. One would probably have to buy a 24pin splitter http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EPS-24-PIN-OR-ATX-24-PIN-Y-SPLITTER-POWER-CABLE-10-MADE-IN-USA-/251052154981
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elaramus
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January 21, 2014, 01:42:03 AM |
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Ordered one of these 1/7, received today in good shape. Funny to see on tracking it left Hong Kong at 9pm, arriving in USA 9am the same day.
No damage inside the unit, no loose cables, no broken caps, no bent corners. I took it apart to inspect it, there were no "fuse" labels silk screened on the ASIC boards, however there ARE 2 fuses in parallel at that location, they are marked P. A Google search shows that these are most likely 32volt 3amp fuses. There were some loose/cross-threaded screws holding the ASIC boards on the heatsinks and a loose wifi antenna to adjust and tighten. I added some cardboard and masking tape around the intake and exhaust fans to direct more air through the heatsinks, also taped the gap between the two heatsinks to make a sealed tunnel. Along the edge where the heatsinks are screwed to case I applied some thermal paste to try and increase heat dissipation. The fans start at full screaming loud speed at power up, but quickly quiet down to a normal "gaming computer with lots of fans" level. Reported temps stay in the mid 30s C. One of the fan cables connected to the TP-LINK board has had 12v and ground cut off at the connector, leaving the speed sense and PWM wires connected. The red and black fan power wires are soldered to the power board, presumably the TP-LINK cannot provide enough current to run 2 the large high speed fans. Both fans still slow to a lower noise level after booting up.
Btmine posted in an earlier post that the unit could run on a single power supply, this is not true. I tried with a single EVGA 1000watt 80+platinum power supply (12v 83amp single rail), with the 24 pin ATX motherboard connector in ATX_24P and nothing in the second ATX_24P_2 connector. The unit would power up but only use the 2nd blade, running at ~100GHS. Connecting a 2nd 750watt power supply to the ATX_24P_2 connector powered up both blades, it is now running at ~220GHS. If I were to splice up a 24 pin ATX motherboard power connector splitter and connect both connectors to a single power supply it would probably work, perhaps I will try it later.
1400Mhz seems to be the limit for these boards, at first they ran for a couple of hours at 1500Mhz but then became unstable, the unit seemed to be rebooting and spinning the fans up to full speed then back to normal over and over, speeds dropped to less than 150GHS. 1600Mhz was even worse, many of the match_work_count units on the api log page were hashing at very low levels. Everything was normal after switching back to 1400Mhz (~210-220GHS).
The way to run with one PSU is by someway getting a second 24pin connected to that PSU. That is what people keep asking. One would probably have to buy a 24pin splitter http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EPS-24-PIN-OR-ATX-24-PIN-Y-SPLITTER-POWER-CABLE-10-MADE-IN-USA-/251052154981I tried single PSU as well and it didn't work. Why: The power cable going to the blades (the white and black wires) are all +12V, there is one single wire on the blade power plug which is red in color and provides +3.3V. Each EPS 24 connector provides the +3.3V to the red wire (one for each blade). Figure out a way to get 3.3V on the second red wire without the second EPS 24 connected (a jumper wire soldered between the two perhaps?) with sufficient amperage, and you're up and running on a single power supply. Obvious, but for clarity, (You'll still need to fill all the PCI-E and 8Pin CPU connectors for the other blade)
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grumpy619
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January 21, 2014, 01:47:20 AM |
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Thank you I've tried to connect to the miner via wireless router and it is not working for some reason. I will try to use the writeup you suggested and hopefully I will get this thing mining. Thank you.
You will probably have a hard time connecting it to your wireless router via the supplied wireless card inside. If you do get I bet a lot of people would appreciate a post on how it worked. If you really need wireless I would buy a wireless Ethernet adapter. I have a netgear n600 that I connect my slingbox with. It runs for months without needing a reboot. Even the Bitmain Antminer S1's wireless is super iffy. Thanks for the info. I'm still having one hell of a time getting this thing to mine. I got it up and running and now it sounds like someone is vacuuming near my kitchen. I was looking at what the Antminer set up and on the network setting part: The part that says turn LAN setting to DHCP i did that and connected it to a router it did not respond. Doing that does not change the IP address on it does it?
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trinsic
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January 21, 2014, 01:54:09 AM |
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You should leave it static. Put --avalon-fan 80 (or 20) in the extra options of CGMiner. For some reason some of us got quiet units and others not so.
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grumpy619
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January 21, 2014, 02:14:07 AM |
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I am using BitMinter and for some reason I am not connecting. In the worker name section should it be my username.worker or is it a , or a _?
it also says this in the CGminer APi log
[Firmware Version] => 20131110 cgminer: 176747f cgminer-openwrt-packages: 0e12b1b luci: 346e3e7 Socket connect failed: Connection refused
also where is the extra options of CGMiner? Sorry for all the questions this thing is not as plug and play as they claim.
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Pistachio
Legendary
Offline
Activity: 1456
Merit: 1000
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January 21, 2014, 02:26:01 AM |
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I am using BitMinter and for some reason I am not connecting. In the worker name section should it be my username.worker or is it a , or a _?
it also says this in the CGminer APi log
[Firmware Version] => 20131110 cgminer: 176747f cgminer-openwrt-packages: 0e12b1b luci: 346e3e7 Socket connect failed: Connection refused
also where is the extra options of CGMiner? Sorry for all the questions this thing is not as plug and play as they claim.
For bitminter, use username_workerID For example, grumpy619_worker1 Try stratum+tcp://mint.bitminter.com:3333 for the pool address, but if it does not work try mint.bitminter.com:3333 instead. extra options is 'more options' on the last line in the OpenWrt interface under cgminer configuration
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grumpy619
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January 21, 2014, 02:58:59 AM |
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Thanks I still can't seem to get the machines hashing.
I was able to get it to accept DHCP and see it over my router. For some reason ether the pool was not configured right or something the CGminer stats stayed blank. I think I blew one of the power supply so off to frys before they close. Any other suggestions so this bad boy can be up and running?
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Helnick
Newbie
Offline
Activity: 26
Merit: 0
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January 21, 2014, 03:02:52 AM |
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Are these still able to be purchased?
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mtnminer
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January 21, 2014, 03:19:12 AM |
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Supposedly they are not for sale anymore, but a few are listed here in the forum from their owners, already in hand over the last couple of days. Browse back some and you will find them. Good Luck Mtnminer Are these still able to be purchased?
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trinsic
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January 21, 2014, 03:22:25 AM |
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Got the internal wifi working. Only downside is the webUI stops working unless you plug Ethernet back in.
Go to Network tab > Wifi tab >> Enable Wifi >>> Scan
Choose your network, put in a password, change firewall-zone from wan to lan, submit then save and apply. It should appear under Network > Interfaces under WWAN. Unplug the Ethernet and enjoy.
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grumpy619
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January 21, 2014, 03:30:42 AM |
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Is there a way to re set this machine?
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pjviitas
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January 21, 2014, 03:57:46 AM |
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The status page on a lot of these miners are hit and miss as far as calibration is concerned. I just let mine run for 10 rounds on my pool and go by whatever it says just like your doing.
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