[GROUP BUY WORLDWIDE]BTMine v1 Miner 200GH/s BTC 2.4

[grumpy619]

Just got off the phone with DHL my order was on 1/7 and I am expecting delivery on Monday. They said that the packages will require a signature. So if your waiting make sure that you have someone that will sign for it. This has been the longest 2 weeks ever. I can't wait to start mining or is anyone interested in purchasing this for $3200 on hand by monday hahahah Good luck to everyone else I might actually miss posting on this thread hahah not..

Funny, after btmine cancelled my Jan 7th order, i ordered an antminer S1 on the 17th, got my tracking for the antminer on the 18th and will be arriving on Monday also!
180 GHs / 360 watts at the wall.

I hope you all get yours safe and sound, and I hope btmine takes care of everyone and works on making the next group buy run smoother.

I know right. They seem like good people. Once I get the machine I hope that it will be in good condition. That is the next thing I have to worry about. So everyone is opening there machine up to make sure it is put together bueno?

[Guava]

I know right. They seem like good people. Once I get the machine I hope that it will be in good condition. That is the next thing I have to worry about. So everyone is opening there machine up to make sure it is put together bueno?

Yes, its recommended that you check all cables before you plug it in.

[trinsic]

Mines apparently sitting in customs in my country now. Should be good for delivery tomorrow!

[Pistachio]

Quick warning to anyone switching out the PSUs. You must have at least 60a on a single rail for this to work. I have now blown four PSUs trying to get this thing working. It just swallowed up two 750w 53a PSUs.

Pistachio thank you for the info I have a quick question. Is it 60 amps per 12volt connection or 60 amps as a whole. The reason I am asking is because I purchased two 1350 Watt Enermax Platimax power supply's for the avalon but the 12 volt rails are individually split to 30 amps each. Will this be a problem.

I don't know if the 1350 will be okay. I am quoting 60a as a whole but keep in mind I just blew out two 750w 53a on single rails. So, I thinking it needs more than 30a each, at least on the main PSU that starts it up.

Here are two PSUs that I have tested and are currently running fine at 210-220Gh stock settings.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153174

and

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004N951VW/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you can then check the max amps here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182239

They best way I found to check is to pull it up on newegg.com and go to the specifications tab. Newegg is pretty good about listing this info. Amazon is horrible about it.

[robbcarpdm]

I have a tracking or

And the DHL site even has the right city info

Well I am guessing that the switch to one heatsink per board was because they ran out of money to buy heatsinks.

They can not confirm my other two miners purchased same day via BTC.

So as I conveyed to Roxy....you cant refund BTC is is now worth less than when I paid so orders shipped are the BTC order as they cashed that check first.

So now waiting on my paypal orders.

Sure glad I split the order half BTC and half Paypal.

I hope we dont get shoe box enclosures cause they ran out of money

In stock ....what bull crap.....

[FarmerOak]

HELP!!!

I think I may have blown something in my miner.  I was moving my miners around to different outlets, and after that I powered up one of my BTMine Avalons and now my hashrate is ~130Gh/s instead of the 200Gh/s I was getting before.  I tried all the obvious things such as moving the miner back to the original outlet, swapping both power supplies around including trying a new PSU, etc.  Nothing seems to help.

I also did a visual inspection to see if anything was obviously damaged/loose/etc and nothing seems unusual.  Unfortunately I'm not an electrical guy so I can't whip out a meter and start probing the boards, although I do have a multimeter if someone could tell me what to check.

Any ideas?

Sounds like some of your modules on a board went out. Did you try overclocking to 1500Mhz? At 1000W I'm tempted to say you did (I drew 890W@1400 and ~980W@1500). When I overclocked one of my units to 1500Mhz, it restarted about 5 times until I lowered it back to 1400. Too late though, 2 of the 16 modules stopped working. I can tell because when I (carefully) touch the metal square on near the end of each module, they're cold while all the others are hot.

Looks like you damaged 6 of the 8 on one board. If you did overclock, they likely won't replace it. Live and learn is the lesson I'm taking, though I'd still like to try and repair mine.

Edit: Oh, and look at your CGminer API log. Mine says this:

   [match_work_count1] => 1084
   [match_work_count2] => 1085
   [match_work_count3] => 1078
   [match_work_count4] => 1113
   [match_work_count5] => 1108
   [match_work_count6] => 1097
   [match_work_count7] => 1092
   [match_work_count8] => 1084
   [match_work_count9] => 1025
   [match_work_count10] => 0
   [match_work_count11] => 0
   [match_work_count12] => 1062
   [match_work_count13] => 1096
   [match_work_count14] => 1034
   [match_work_count15] => 1020
   [match_work_count16] => 1107

Obviously, module 10 and 11 are dead. Check to see yours

[robbcarpdm]

Oh wait I am in luck

BTMINE accidently refunded my paypal order first as their poor english didnt get that I had ordered two more via BTC

So given first in and first out.

My second two miners are protected by Paypal and credit card.

Guess luckly for me they made that mistake .....

Still suck as we have all lost a min of .7 btc in hashing time......

In stock has to be instock......

Late Feb and March si going to kill difficulty and this power hogs wont cut it but to the ebay and craiglists saps.

Too bad......I had some serious coin I was going to try to buy bulk and resell for side bus but have to have reliable partner.....have to say it but Bitmain is relianble...even if I dont like the name......Ant laughing

[twib2]

I think I may have blown something in my miner.  I was moving my miners around to different outlets, and after that I powered up one of my BTMine Avalons and now my hashrate is ~130Gh/s instead of the 200Gh/s I was getting before.  I tried all the obvious things such as moving the miner back to the original outlet, swapping both power supplies around including trying a new PSU, etc.  Nothing seems to help.

I also did a visual inspection to see if anything was obviously damaged/loose/etc and nothing seems unusual.  Unfortunately I'm not an electrical guy so I can't whip out a meter and start probing the boards, although I do have a multimeter if someone could tell me what to check.

I have almost the same problem, and also after moving it to the basement.  But mine's running at 50%.  Argh.  And it's not just one blade - if I take out the secondary blade, and run just with one I get 41 GH/s, which is about 3/8 speed.  I'm about to try the other blade in its place and I'd imagine it'll be approx 68 GH/s, or 5/8 but we'll see.  Were you able to solve this?

I've also gone through 2 power supplies, both on the primary (controller and tplink), one a Solid Gear Neutron 750 and one a CoolMax 1000 ZU Series (!).  Right now I have a Corsair HX 1050 in there now- hopefully that won't get eaten.

I'm working on the secondarly blade right now, too, because a large capacitor on the blade right next to the ribbon cable was forced off by the cable - I only found it by looking around for loose connections and whatnot, and it fell right out.  Double argh.  I'm soldering it back on and will leave room for it to be away from the ribbon cable next time.

I was liking the device until this...  If I can fix it, it's all good, but at this point, it's not looking like I can get back above 50%.

[Gamer67]

Still waiting for my fucking 2.4 BTC refund.

[twib2]

HELP!!!

I think I may have blown something in my miner.  I was moving my miners around to different outlets, and after that I powered up one of my BTMine Avalons and now my hashrate is ~130Gh/s instead of the 200Gh/s I was getting before.  I tried all the obvious things such as moving the miner back to the original outlet, swapping both power supplies around including trying a new PSU, etc.  Nothing seems to help.

I also did a visual inspection to see if anything was obviously damaged/loose/etc and nothing seems unusual.  Unfortunately I'm not an electrical guy so I can't whip out a meter and start probing the boards, although I do have a multimeter if someone could tell me what to check.

Any ideas?

Sounds like some of your modules on a board went out. Did you try overclocking to 1500Mhz? At 1000W I'm tempted to say you did (I drew 890W@1400 and ~980W@1500). When I overclocked one of my units to 1500Mhz, it restarted about 5 times until I lowered it back to 1400. Too late though, 2 of the 16 modules stopped working. I can tell because when I (carefully) touch the metal square on near the end of each module, they're cold while all the others are hot.

Looks like you damaged 6 of the 8 on one board. If you did overclock, they likely won't replace it. Live and learn is the lesson I'm taking, though I'd still like to try and repair mine.

Edit: Oh, and look at your CGminer API log. Mine says this:

   [match_work_count1] => 1084
   [match_work_count2] => 1085
   [match_work_count3] => 1078
   [match_work_count4] => 1113
   [match_work_count5] => 1108
   [match_work_count6] => 1097
   [match_work_count7] => 1092
   [match_work_count8] => 1084
   [match_work_count9] => 1025
   [match_work_count10] => 0
   [match_work_count11] => 0
   [match_work_count12] => 1062
   [match_work_count13] => 1096
   [match_work_count14] => 1034
   [match_work_count15] => 1020
   [match_work_count16] => 1107

Obviously, module 10 and 11 are dead. Check to see yours

Good info, but not happy for me.  Right now, workers 1-8 are not present of course, but my API shows:

Code:

[match_work_count9] => 0
[match_work_count10] => 0
[match_work_count11] => 0
[match_work_count12] => 0
[match_work_count13] => 17207
[match_work_count14] => 17656
[match_work_count15] => 0
[match_work_count16] => 17881

I did overclock (only ~7% to 1500) for a little while and all was good for about a day.  Noticed it was 160 GHs or so, did some looking and went back down to 1400, no further degradation, then overnight it went down to 50% which is where it seems to be staying.  Maybe I should move all the good modules over to one blade and run it that way.  

[FarmerOak]

Yeah, except I think you can only move them in pairs. Mine for example span 2 module pairs. Meaning (9,10<--dead) (11<--dead,12), so it's not so easy to cut them out (or replace them)   I could be wrong about this, haven't tried yet

These things are super fragile   I'd strongly recommend for no one to overclock to 1500MHz

[sailem09]

Quick warning to anyone switching out the PSUs. You must have at least 60a on a single rail for this to work. I have now blown four PSUs trying to get this thing working. It just swallowed up two 750w 53a PSUs.

Pistachio thank you for the info I have a quick question. Is it 60 amps per 12volt connection or 60 amps as a whole. The reason I am asking is because I purchased two 1350 Watt Enermax Platimax power supply's for the avalon but the 12 volt rails are individually split to 30 amps each. Will this be a problem.

I don't know if the 1350 will be okay. I am quoting 60a as a whole but keep in mind I just blew out two 750w 53a on single rails. So, I thinking it needs more than 30a each, at least on the main PSU that starts it up.

Here are two PSUs that I have tested and are currently running fine at 210-220Gh stock settings.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153174

and

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004N951VW/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you can then check the max amps here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182239

They best way I found to check is to pull it up on newegg.com and go to the specifications tab. Newegg is pretty good about listing this info. Amazon is horrible about it.

May I ask what 750 power supply's did you blow up ?

[forexmasterja]

So is anyone else who ordered on the 7th's tracking number still showing a status of only Shipping Information Received?  I got my tracking number Thursday but there has been no movement all.  I see other people posting that their package is showing movement so maybe I am just that unlucky or is it possible DHL is not updating the tracking information for my package?

Mine just shows "shipment information received". You're not alone.

Mine is showing the same thing, only difference is I got a FEDEX Number. I wont be feeling good about this till i see some activity, because this just means they put the pickup request in the system and it has not been received by the carrier as yet.

[twib2]

Yeah, except I think you can only move them in pairs. Mine for example span 2 module pairs. Meaning (9,10<--dead) (11<--dead,12), so it's not so easy to cut them out (or replace them)   I could be wrong about this, haven't tried yet

These things are super fragile   I'd strongly recommend for no one to overclock to 1500MHz

Looking more closely for any damage, I can't find any on the boards, or melted connectors and such that some folks in the Avalon thread have noticed in the past.

...BUT looking more closely, I noticed that I had some dual-modules which were different in that they did NOT have FUSE1.  Furthermore, each of those modules were fine.  I had one dual-module with one working side and one non-working side - interestingly, the working side has no resistance across its fuse.  The non working side had ~7 kOhm across its non working side.  All the other non-working ones also had some appreciable resistance across their fuses.  So, I'm going to bridge a couple and see if they come back.  If so, that would mean that these were simply very tightly fused, and so might be good candidates for going up to a higher-rated fuse if you want to OC, or re-fuse and don't OC.

Will update after dinner when I try this, but I'm crossing my fingers...

[FarmerOak]

Yeah, except I think you can only move them in pairs. Mine for example span 2 module pairs. Meaning (9,10<--dead) (11<--dead,12), so it's not so easy to cut them out (or replace them)   I could be wrong about this, haven't tried yet

These things are super fragile   I'd strongly recommend for no one to overclock to 1500MHz

Looking more closely for any damage, I can't find any on the boards, or melted connectors and such that some folks in the Avalon thread have noticed in the past.

...BUT looking more closely, I noticed that I had some dual-modules which were different in that they did NOT have FUSE1.  Furthermore, each of those modules were fine.  I had one dual-module with one working side and one non-working side - interestingly, the working side has no resistance across its fuse.  The non working side had ~7 kOhm across its non working side.  All the other non-working ones also had some appreciable resistance across their fuses.  So, I'm going to bridge a couple and see if they come back.  If so, that would mean that these were simply very tightly fused, and so might be good candidates for going up to a higher-rated fuse if you want to OC, or re-fuse and don't OC.

Will update after dinner when I try this, but I'm crossing my fingers...

That would be fantastic news. Please fill us in on what happens, I'm sure this will help lots of people out if it turns out to be true.

BTW, where is FUSE1? I can't seem to find it on my modules
Nevermind, found it, and you're right. Only SOME modules have this fuse (looks like the longer modules, without "Avalon Project" printed on them have FUSE1) The 2 modules that failed for me are on these longer boards and have FUSE1

Edit: Resistance measurements confirmed. The FUSE1 on my 2 dead modules are infinite resistance, the good modules are all 0.00Ohms.

[twib2]

Yeah, except I think you can only move them in pairs. Mine for example span 2 module pairs. Meaning (9,10<--dead) (11<--dead,12), so it's not so easy to cut them out (or replace them)   I could be wrong about this, haven't tried yet

These things are super fragile   I'd strongly recommend for no one to overclock to 1500MHz

Looking more closely for any damage, I can't find any on the boards, or melted connectors and such that some folks in the Avalon thread have noticed in the past.

...BUT looking more closely, I noticed that I had some dual-modules which were different in that they did NOT have FUSE1.  Furthermore, each of those modules were fine.  I had one dual-module with one working side and one non-working side - interestingly, the working side has no resistance across its fuse.  The non working side had ~7 kOhm across its non working side.  All the other non-working ones also had some appreciable resistance across their fuses.  So, I'm going to bridge a couple and see if they come back.  If so, that would mean that these were simply very tightly fused, and so might be good candidates for going up to a higher-rated fuse if you want to OC, or re-fuse and don't OC.

Will update after dinner when I try this, but I'm crossing my fingers...

That would be fantastic news. Please fill us in on what happens, I'm sure this will help lots of people out if it turns out to be true.

BTW, where is FUSE1? I can't seem to find it on my modules
Nevermind, found it, and you're right. Only SOME modules have this fuse (looks like the longer modules, without "Avalon Project" printed on them have FUSE1) The 2 modules that failed for me are on these longer boards and have FUSE1

Dinner was taking longer so I pulled the fuse (yep blown) and bridged the location.  And...

EUREKA!   That blade had only been doing 41 GH/s, and now it's doing 53-53 GH/s.  Looks like I'm going to bridge more and then order some higher rated fuses...

I'm no SMD dude, but it bothered me that I couldn't see any damage on any components or connectors.  With the current these things draw a truly failed component should've blackened pretty well.  So, glad I was able to notice the fuse and try it out.  Will let you all know if they all come back, but at this point it's looking good.

[FarmerOak]

Yeah, except I think you can only move them in pairs. Mine for example span 2 module pairs. Meaning (9,10<--dead) (11<--dead,12), so it's not so easy to cut them out (or replace them)   I could be wrong about this, haven't tried yet

These things are super fragile   I'd strongly recommend for no one to overclock to 1500MHz

Looking more closely for any damage, I can't find any on the boards, or melted connectors and such that some folks in the Avalon thread have noticed in the past.

...BUT looking more closely, I noticed that I had some dual-modules which were different in that they did NOT have FUSE1.  Furthermore, each of those modules were fine.  I had one dual-module with one working side and one non-working side - interestingly, the working side has no resistance across its fuse.  The non working side had ~7 kOhm across its non working side.  All the other non-working ones also had some appreciable resistance across their fuses.  So, I'm going to bridge a couple and see if they come back.  If so, that would mean that these were simply very tightly fused, and so might be good candidates for going up to a higher-rated fuse if you want to OC, or re-fuse and don't OC.

Will update after dinner when I try this, but I'm crossing my fingers...

That would be fantastic news. Please fill us in on what happens, I'm sure this will help lots of people out if it turns out to be true.

BTW, where is FUSE1? I can't seem to find it on my modules
Nevermind, found it, and you're right. Only SOME modules have this fuse (looks like the longer modules, without "Avalon Project" printed on them have FUSE1) The 2 modules that failed for me are on these longer boards and have FUSE1

Dinner was taking longer so I pulled the fuse (yep blown) and bridged the location.  And...

EUREKA!   That blade had only been doing 41 GH/s, and now it's doing 53-53 GH/s.  Looks like I'm going to bridge more and then order some higher rated fuses...

I'm no SMD dude, but it bothered me that I couldn't see any damage on any components or connectors.  With the current these things draw a truly failed component should've blackened pretty well.  So, glad I was able to notice the fuse and try it out.  Will let you all know if they all come back, but at this point it's looking good.

Wow fantastic, and good fucking work seeing that fuse. Going to try bridging mine now.

[twib2]

Yeah, except I think you can only move them in pairs. Mine for example span 2 module pairs. Meaning (9,10<--dead) (11<--dead,12), so it's not so easy to cut them out (or replace them)   I could be wrong about this, haven't tried yet

These things are super fragile   I'd strongly recommend for no one to overclock to 1500MHz

Looking more closely for any damage, I can't find any on the boards, or melted connectors and such that some folks in the Avalon thread have noticed in the past.

...BUT looking more closely, I noticed that I had some dual-modules which were different in that they did NOT have FUSE1.  Furthermore, each of those modules were fine.  I had one dual-module with one working side and one non-working side - interestingly, the working side has no resistance across its fuse.  The non working side had ~7 kOhm across its non working side.  All the other non-working ones also had some appreciable resistance across their fuses.  So, I'm going to bridge a couple and see if they come back.  If so, that would mean that these were simply very tightly fused, and so might be good candidates for going up to a higher-rated fuse if you want to OC, or re-fuse and don't OC.

Will update after dinner when I try this, but I'm crossing my fingers...

That would be fantastic news. Please fill us in on what happens, I'm sure this will help lots of people out if it turns out to be true.

BTW, where is FUSE1? I can't seem to find it on my modules
Nevermind, found it, and you're right. Only SOME modules have this fuse (looks like the longer modules, without "Avalon Project" printed on them have FUSE1) The 2 modules that failed for me are on these longer boards and have FUSE1

Dinner was taking longer so I pulled the fuse (yep blown) and bridged the location.  And...

EUREKA!   That blade had only been doing 41 GH/s, and now it's doing 53-53 GH/s.  Looks like I'm going to bridge more and then order some higher rated fuses...

I'm no SMD dude, but it bothered me that I couldn't see any damage on any components or connectors.  With the current these things draw a truly failed component should've blackened pretty well.  So, glad I was able to notice the fuse and try it out.  Will let you all know if they all come back, but at this point it's looking good.

Wow fantastic, and good fucking work seeing that fuse. Going to try bridging mine now.

Alright, did one whole blade and now it's back at 105-110 GH/s.  Talk about your resurrection!  Going to do the other one now - definitely good to get back that $1K worth of performance I would have otherwise lost!

[FarmerOak]

GREAT NEWS man! I'm having trouble desoldering the fuse because my good soldering iron just broke, and my backup sucks

[twib2]

GREAT NEWS man! I'm having trouble desoldering the fuse because my good soldering iron just broke, and my backup sucks

I used a hot air station for the desoldering, then soldering iron to add solder and then single strand of aluminum wire for the bridge.

Got 'em all back hashing again!  Right now at 219 GH/s and my API show them all working at comparable speeds:

Code:

   [match_work_count1] => 539
   [match_work_count2] => 586
   [match_work_count3] => 590
   [match_work_count4] => 559
   [match_work_count5] => 611
   [match_work_count6] => 572
   [match_work_count7] => 556
   [match_work_count8] => 556
   [match_work_count9] => 622
   [match_work_count10] => 590
   [match_work_count11] => 553
   [match_work_count12] => 567
   [match_work_count13] => 560
   [match_work_count14] => 584
   [match_work_count15] => 568
   [match_work_count16] => 581

Now to put everything back together and get it back on the shelf where it belongs.

I'm a happy camper!  Hope yours goes as smoothly!

And for some reason, I'm back to liking these things.  ;-)