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Author Topic: [GROUP BUY WORLDWIDE]BTMine v1 Miner 200GH/s BTC 2.4  (Read 97003 times)
Xer0
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January 24, 2014, 10:00:05 PM
Last edit: January 24, 2014, 10:28:43 PM by Xer0
 #1401

So, i finally got it.  Lips sealed pix -> http://imgur.com/a/CZqFE

my brother missed the postman, but my dear drove me to their pickup point to get it today.

the unboxing came with prooven bad expectations:
some loose screws in the box
no double-plug but two standard cables, and the wrong ones (ordered eu, got asia plugs)
one of them bent so hard it can only be scraped for wires

opened the case:
led was loose
some wires dangerously near, almost touching to the chips
and the annoyingst thing ... network jack was jammed, but managed to hammer the cable in

but at least: no wedged-in heatsinks or seriously broken stuff

it runs 204 G on average while louder than a BFL - 60dB near it and still 50db at the end of the floor
i can hear it through a fucking metal firedoor!  Shocked http://youtu.be/-L3U_bFtGkU

and yeah that termal sensor is strange, a ntc one, fans runs faster the colder it becomes
still no clue where it should be put for optimal temp/speed control
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sikke
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January 24, 2014, 10:18:41 PM
 #1402

So, i finally got it.  Lips sealed pix -> http://imgur.com/a/CZqFE

and yeah that termal sensor is strange, a ntc one, fans runs faster the colder it becomes
still no clue where it should be put for optimal temp/speed control

Lucky you... got somewhat ok unit. Try --avalon-fan 20 to cgminer options, last field in config it should lock the fans to 2200 which is not bad. See if it overheats. With that 205GH/s you propably got all chips hashing ok you can chek this in the api-log tab after 30-60minutes of steady hashing the number should be eaven with all workers.

--avalon-fan 80
is enough to cool this unit in most normal room temperatures at stock speed of hashing.

HW errors should be around 3-4%. It is DH% value in status page.

Happy mining.
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January 24, 2014, 10:31:57 PM
 #1403

Try --avalon-fan 20 to cgminer options, last field in config it should lock the fans to 2200 which is not bad. See if it overheats.
chips on blow-out side of the board already have 90°C (IR thermometer)

should i still risk to calm the fans?
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January 24, 2014, 10:42:33 PM
 #1404

Try --avalon-fan 20 to cgminer options, last field in config it should lock the fans to 2200 which is not bad. See if it overheats.
chips on blow-out side of the board already have 90°C (IR thermometer)

should i still risk to calm the fans?

Chips are always hot they dont die in 90c
Hard to say without being there. I would try it if noise bothers... still it might overheat. Touching the heatsinks will give some feeling how it cools. If you can touch the heatsinks without burning your fingers your good to go. My ambient temps are low in warehouse but this is what i get with OC.

If you cant hold your fingers at the heatsink it's too hot.

7hours solid. But my fans are not locked to 2200 in this unit and it's OC 1500... it's in warehouse 16c atm. Try it, it wont fry if you watch the temps.




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January 24, 2014, 10:50:15 PM
 #1405

heatsinks are 20-22°C

chips on push-fan side are cooler (~40°)
maybe some have not good conduction?
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January 25, 2014, 12:11:27 AM
 #1406

My fans only wants to work when i remove the sensor, is there a way to fix that ? I think its not the sensor as temps are showing when its plugged. Im not good enough to figure out where it comes from...

Anyway, im finally hashing since 24hrs !
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January 25, 2014, 12:29:15 AM
 #1407

"--avalon-fan 50" did it for me, locking RPM to ~2000

will run it underclocked to 1000 Mhz at night

i hope it wont catch fire this way and my neighbors get their sleep
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January 25, 2014, 02:34:06 AM
 #1408

Can someone check the main board. I have this three wire thing plugged into P3. And it's like 30 inches long and capped at the end. What the hell is it?
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January 25, 2014, 02:37:59 AM
Last edit: January 25, 2014, 02:49:18 AM by stewdk
 #1409

Can someone check the main board. I have this three wire thing plugged into P3. And it's like 30 inches long and capped at the end. What the hell is it?

Pics? Could it be the temperature sensor?

EDIT: Oh wait, I just looked at my main/fpga board. P3 is the LED.

EDIT2: Nope, sorry, P3 is actually the temperature sensor on my board. Forgive my temporary stupidity. P1 is the LED.

Funny story - if I heat up my temperature sensor the fans actually slow down.
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January 25, 2014, 03:10:35 AM
 #1410

so after replacing almost two dozen screws with longer ones its starting to come together.

only issue now is the capacitor? marked A 997 330 16v popped off near the ribbon cable and the legs broke off.

Where can i get a replacement?  i tried searching mouser.com but i dont know what i am looking at.

is this it?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEE-TP1C331AP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsw5ceDr7HJSHIh9B2nCFEN

or this

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Sprague/94SVP337X0016F12/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt2Q%252b%2fb08UWm56zY9XkptlP

how do i solder it on?  do i heat from underneath?
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January 25, 2014, 03:12:33 AM
 #1411

Can someone check the main board. I have this three wire thing plugged into P3. And it's like 30 inches long and capped at the end. What the hell is it?

Pics? Could it be the temperature sensor?

EDIT: Oh wait, I just looked at my main/fpga board. P3 is the LED.

EDIT2: Nope, sorry, P3 is actually the temperature sensor on my board. Forgive my temporary stupidity. P1 is the LED.

Funny story - if I heat up my temperature sensor the fans actually slow down.

where is the temp sensor supposed to be mounted?
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January 25, 2014, 03:19:30 AM
 #1412


From what I can tell, either should work.  There is actually enough room to solder each leg from the top (the plastic guard underneath might get an edge melted, but that's no big deal).  I soldered the one that fell of my board back on no problem (slight edge melting of plastic underneath).

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January 25, 2014, 03:21:29 AM
 #1413

where is the temp sensor supposed to be mounted?

This was asked earlier in the thread, though I know it's gotten long now.  Anyway, it should be between the fins of one of the blades, preferably in the middle and jammed back in pretty well.  I put mine somewhat more close to the exhaust side of the upper blade, but it probably doesn't make a ton of difference as long as it's in the blades somewhere you think will give a good gauge of the temps they're seeing.

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January 25, 2014, 03:23:18 AM
 #1414


From what I can tell, either should work.  There is actually enough room to solder each leg from the top (the plastic guard underneath might get an edge melted, but that's no big deal).  I soldered the one that fell of my board back on no problem (slight edge melting of plastic underneath).

i think my legs were too short to begin with so i failed miserable.  also thanks for the temp sensor.  we should create a google doc that we can all add tips/tricks and links to stuff we need for this thing
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January 25, 2014, 03:50:48 AM
 #1415

(bought on the 10th. They said 11th. Received today)

So (and I hate sounding like such a newbie), what now?

Is their a post that someone walks though it, or do I follow the regular avalon user guide at: https://en.bitcoin.it/wiki/Avalon#User_Guide ?



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January 25, 2014, 04:03:33 AM
 #1416

Can I run this with the missing capacitor?
mtnminer
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January 25, 2014, 04:08:22 AM
 #1417

I believe this one will have the leads you need to attach it to the board

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Sprague/94SVP337X0016F12/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt2Q%252b%2fb08UWm56zY9XkptlP

The other one is a surface mount device and would be harder to attach.

Mtnminer

so after replacing almost two dozen screws with longer ones its starting to come together.

only issue now is the capacitor? marked A 997 330 16v popped off near the ribbon cable and the legs broke off.

Where can i get a replacement?  i tried searching mouser.com but i dont know what i am looking at.

is this it?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEE-TP1C331AP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsw5ceDr7HJSHIh9B2nCFEN

or this

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Sprague/94SVP337X0016F12/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt2Q%252b%2fb08UWm56zY9XkptlP

how do i solder it on?  do i heat from underneath?
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January 25, 2014, 05:59:37 PM
 #1418

Take your laptop over to the Miner and connect an ethernet cable into it and connect the other side to your laptop.  Then...

https://i.imgur.com/lBFnQSD.jpg

Pick your Local Area Connection (you should only have 1, but I run my desktop via NIC Teaming so it says #4).  The icon will look the same.  Double click of course.

https://i.imgur.com/41rvSdo.jpg

Click the Properties button (highlighted)

https://i.imgur.com/fnEs0on.jpg

Click Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) and click properties.

https://i.imgur.com/veTsV7n.jpg

Check Use the Following IP Address:

https://i.imgur.com/fKvfEV2.jpg

You can hit ok as you do not need any other setting for setting up the miner.  You will have to go back to this and set it to Obtain Automatically when you have the miner setup.

Next open whatever web browser of your choice.

https://i.imgur.com/CWPV5zL.jpg

YOUR IP will be the one on the case.  It should bring you here.

Click Network up top and click the edit button.

https://i.imgur.com/e3GD2DQ.jpg

Then set the IPv4 address to 192.168.1.(Whatever number so you can connect to it instantly).
(EXAMPLE since you have 192.168.1.XXX subnet).
IP Address: 192.168.1.20
Gateway (Router IP): 192.168.1.1  (or if you have UVerse or anyone else that uses 192.168.1.254 for their modems).
Custom DNS: Whatever you set for gateway.

https://i.imgur.com/JBlEasc.jpg

Click save and apply.  It should eventually become non-responsive and at that point you can connect your Miner to your router and can access it from the PC.  You will use the IP Address you set to connect to it.  Also remember you need to turn your laptop back to DHCP (Obtain IP Address Automatically).




Thank you so much for detailing exactly what to do!!!!

Followed everything to the t, but when I reset to obtain auto and then tried to access the ip I set, it could not connect.

Any thoughts on what to do now?
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January 25, 2014, 06:11:50 PM
 #1419

On the last step, you leave the miner set to an IP you choose, set you laptop or pc back to DHCP.  Then access the miner by putting it's ip into your browser.

I hope that helps

Mtnminer
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January 25, 2014, 07:15:36 PM
 #1420

On the last step, you leave the miner set to an IP you choose, set you laptop or pc back to DHCP.  Then access the miner by putting it's ip into your browser.

I hope that helps

Mtnminer

Thanks. That was the last step I took. I set it to the IP that I selected. Then set my computer back to 'obtain auto' and then opened a browser and tried to go to the IP I set it to....nuthin.

And I don't see a reset button to change it back or a way to trip OpenWrt to failsafe.

I tried the angryip scanner and it didn't even show anything live at the IP # I created...and I tried anything that was live. Nuthin...
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