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Author Topic: Swedish ASIC miner company kncminer.com  (Read 3007412 times)
soy
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November 21, 2013, 07:37:54 PM
 #22741

I purchased 2 of the recent fire-sale modules for my 4-port Jupiter, but needed to add a couple of pin headers to support all six modules.

I've never really soldered anything before and had no idea what I was doing, but I managed to get everything working! It took a few tries though. I made the assumption that the two blank spaces were simply solder filled holes, but no matter how hot I heated them, I couldn't melt them. I ended up just soldering to the surface.

I'm currently running my existing 4 modules on ports 2-5 so that I can simply attach the new ones onto the side of my open-case Jupiter using ports 1 and 6.

The point of me sharing this is simply to show my excitement and proof that even a noob like me can make this work!







Okay, let me help.  Next time you try this first have a soldering iron hot enough; second have solder wick and a small needle nose to hold the solder wick that can get hot; third have some liquid flux, fourth have a soldering iron HOT enough to melt the solder.  For the last I suggest you might try the hobby section of Walmart for a wood etching iron and use the large angle-pointed tip with flats.  These irons are cheap so if flux destroys the tip, throw the whole thing away and get another.  Fifth, get a solder sucker.  Practice on something.  Grab an old mother board, find some solder filled holes, put some liquid flux on the holes and on the solder wick; hold the solder wick about an inch from the end so the needle nose won't sink all the heat; put the solder wick down on the solder filled  holes, press on the solder wick with the flat side of the iron's tip, when you see the wick fill with solder clip off the end of the solder wick and start fresh.  Try the solder sucker on a few old motherboard components.  Practice.



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November 21, 2013, 08:12:44 PM
 #22742

Now that I've got a steady power feed, I'm going to give 0.99 another try....
Just flashed it....

*edit...   one didn't seem to jump up like the others, even tho bertmod showed all is ok...
rebooted & reflashed it, and it then reacted like the others... jumped right up to speed....
so far, so good...  We'll see what Long term does...Smiley


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vesperwillow
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November 21, 2013, 08:22:38 PM
 #22743

Now that I've got a steady power feed, I'm going to give 0.99 another try....
Just flashed it....

I had superb results with it.. good luck man.

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November 21, 2013, 08:25:07 PM
 #22744

I purchased 2 of the recent fire-sale modules for my 4-port Jupiter, but needed to add a couple of pin headers to support all six modules.

I've never really soldered anything before and had no idea what I was doing, but I managed to get everything working! It took a few tries though. I made the assumption that the two blank spaces were simply solder filled holes, but no matter how hot I heated them, I couldn't melt them. I ended up just soldering to the surface.

I'm currently running my existing 4 modules on ports 2-5 so that I can simply attach the new ones onto the side of my open-case Jupiter using ports 1 and 6.

The point of me sharing this is simply to show my excitement and proof that even a noob like me can make this work!


Okay, let me help.  Next time you try this first have a soldering iron hot enough; second have solder wick and a small needle nose to hold the solder wick that can get hot; third have some liquid flux, fourth have a soldering iron HOT enough to melt the solder.  For the last I suggest you might try the hobby section of Walmart for a wood etching iron and use the large angle-pointed tip with flats.  These irons are cheap so if flux destroys the tip, throw the whole thing away and get another.  Fifth, get a solder sucker.  Practice on something.  Grab an old mother board, find some solder filled holes, put some liquid flux on the holes and on the solder wick; hold the solder wick about an inch from the end so the needle nose won't sink all the heat; put the solder wick down on the solder filled  holes, press on the solder wick with the flat side of the iron's tip, when you see the wick fill with solder clip off the end of the solder wick and start fresh.  Try the solder sucker on a few old motherboard components.  Practice.

Thanks for the guidance Soy, I appreciate it. I'm sure the more experienced solder-ers out there like you are absolutely cringing when they see my pictures. I hope to purchase more KnC hardware in the future and may get another chance to "do it right".

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November 21, 2013, 08:42:15 PM
 #22745

I purchased 2 of the recent fire-sale modules for my 4-port Jupiter, but needed to add a couple of pin headers to support all six modules.

I've never really soldered anything before and had no idea what I was doing, but I managed to get everything working! It took a few tries though. I made the assumption that the two blank spaces were simply solder filled holes, but no matter how hot I heated them, I couldn't melt them. I ended up just soldering to the surface.

I'm currently running my existing 4 modules on ports 2-5 so that I can simply attach the new ones onto the side of my open-case Jupiter using ports 1 and 6.

The point of me sharing this is simply to show my excitement and proof that even a noob like me can make this work!


Okay, let me help.  Next time you try this first have a soldering iron hot enough; second have solder wick and a small needle nose to hold the solder wick that can get hot; third have some liquid flux, fourth have a soldering iron HOT enough to melt the solder.  For the last I suggest you might try the hobby section of Walmart for a wood etching iron and use the large angle-pointed tip with flats.  These irons are cheap so if flux destroys the tip, throw the whole thing away and get another.  Fifth, get a solder sucker.  Practice on something.  Grab an old mother board, find some solder filled holes, put some liquid flux on the holes and on the solder wick; hold the solder wick about an inch from the end so the needle nose won't sink all the heat; put the solder wick down on the solder filled  holes, press on the solder wick with the flat side of the iron's tip, when you see the wick fill with solder clip off the end of the solder wick and start fresh.  Try the solder sucker on a few old motherboard components.  Practice.

Thanks for the guidance Soy, I appreciate it. I'm sure the more experienced solder-ers out there like you are absolutely cringing when they see my pictures. I hope to purchase more KnC hardware in the future and may get another chance to "do it right".
Where ya based I can fix that in a jiffy in the UK
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November 21, 2013, 08:53:52 PM
 #22746

I purchased 2 of the recent fire-sale modules for my 4-port Jupiter, but needed to add a couple of pin headers to support all six modules.

I've never really soldered anything before and had no idea what I was doing, but I managed to get everything working! It took a few tries though. I made the assumption that the two blank spaces were simply solder filled holes, but no matter how hot I heated them, I couldn't melt them. I ended up just soldering to the surface.

I'm currently running my existing 4 modules on ports 2-5 so that I can simply attach the new ones onto the side of my open-case Jupiter using ports 1 and 6.

The point of me sharing this is simply to show my excitement and proof that even a noob like me can make this work!


Okay, let me help.  Next time you try this first have a soldering iron hot enough; second have solder wick and a small needle nose to hold the solder wick that can get hot; third have some liquid flux, fourth have a soldering iron HOT enough to melt the solder.  For the last I suggest you might try the hobby section of Walmart for a wood etching iron and use the large angle-pointed tip with flats.  These irons are cheap so if flux destroys the tip, throw the whole thing away and get another.  Fifth, get a solder sucker.  Practice on something.  Grab an old mother board, find some solder filled holes, put some liquid flux on the holes and on the solder wick; hold the solder wick about an inch from the end so the needle nose won't sink all the heat; put the solder wick down on the solder filled  holes, press on the solder wick with the flat side of the iron's tip, when you see the wick fill with solder clip off the end of the solder wick and start fresh.  Try the solder sucker on a few old motherboard components.  Practice.

Thanks for the guidance Soy, I appreciate it. I'm sure the more experienced solder-ers out there like you are absolutely cringing when they see my pictures. I hope to purchase more KnC hardware in the future and may get another chance to "do it right".
Where ya based I can fix that in a jiffy in the UK

I'm in Michigan, US. I just found received notice that one of my two modules was delivered to my home (I'm at work). The other went from a city about 20 minutes from me all the way back to Pennsylvania and it will be delivered tomorrow. UPS, how does this happen!?

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November 21, 2013, 08:57:30 PM
 #22747



The point of me sharing this is simply to show my excitement and proof that even a noob like me can make this work!



Officially, I cannot condone what you have done! you have voided your warranty. Angry

(Unoffically; Result! Tongue)

Oh wow.  Be real careful with that.  I could see lifting traces real easily if you put too much force on those.

When I did mine I used a solder sucker and a 25W iron to clear the holes before installing the new pinheaders.  They're now mounted flush with the board just like the factory connectors.

Still, kudos for making it work.  That's the hacker spirit.

"All safe deposit boxes in banks or financial institutions have been sealed... and may only be opened in the presence of an agent of the I.R.S." - President F.D. Roosevelt, 1933
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November 21, 2013, 08:58:46 PM
 #22748


As I have said before, I believe that the only possible real solution is distributed pooled mining like P2pool.  I believe that some distributed pool will eventually emerge that will be good enough and attract enough users that it becomes the 'best' pool (however that is defined), and then the integrity of the bitcoin network will be safe for good.

In the short term, trying to pretend that some miners making a conscious choice to 'save' the network by choosing smaller pools arbitrarily is just self-delusional, contradictory, and will result in pools that are less responsive to the needs of miners.

If you really, really want to 'save' the network right now then design the perfect distributed pool.  Otherwise, make what money you can until someone else does.


The problem with p2pool is that for most its barrier to entry technical level is too steep.

I mean this is the instructions for setting it up in Windows: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=18313.msg712967#msg712967

And this in Linux: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=62842.msg734371#msg734371

Vs,

Change one line in your miner to point to elgius or two to point to most other pools.



I agree.  That is just one of many challenges for P2pool as it now exists.

I wonder if a nice turnkey VM would help with this.

Or an SD image ready to run on a Pi...if a Pi can handle running it.

"All safe deposit boxes in banks or financial institutions have been sealed... and may only be opened in the presence of an agent of the I.R.S." - President F.D. Roosevelt, 1933
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November 21, 2013, 09:00:56 PM
 #22749

I was thinking the same and will look at the hashrate on the pool
As for the advise on the psu ... some here talk a lot of bs.
I bought a  1200 watt - one rail psu and guess what it turns of the asic boards power
After this fiasco i took my old trusted 1200 watt 6 rail antec and poof running like a charm Cheesy
power drain according to bertmod internal 676 watt  on the wall i have 832 watt with 0.98.1 showing 696 Gh/s
If i put on the 0.99 firmware it drops to around 650 Gh/s

So 0.99 is much slower
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November 21, 2013, 09:20:30 PM
 #22750

I purchased 2 of the recent fire-sale modules for my 4-port Jupiter, but needed to add a couple of pin headers to support all six modules.

I've never really soldered anything before and had no idea what I was doing, but I managed to get everything working! It took a few tries though. I made the assumption that the two blank spaces were simply solder filled holes, but no matter how hot I heated them, I couldn't melt them. I ended up just soldering to the surface.

I'm currently running my existing 4 modules on ports 2-5 so that I can simply attach the new ones onto the side of my open-case Jupiter using ports 1 and 6.

The point of me sharing this is simply to show my excitement and proof that even a noob like me can make this work!







Is there any way the empty ports can be used without soldering and risk voiding the warranty? I thought I had 4 extra ports in my Saturn, but really only have 2 and debating whether or not its worth the risk to add the 3rd. I have some soldering experience, but not on anything this nice.  Tongue

Are these controller boards available from KnC in case of a failure? Will the new controller boards be compatible with the current upgrade modules, or vice versa?

I'm in the same boat, no black connectors attached to my board so I could never add 6 modules to controller board BUT I doubt I'll ever be able to buy anymore module anyway, so the point is moot.

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November 21, 2013, 09:26:27 PM
 #22751



I don't disagree with anything in this post.  But it seems to me that educating people about pool choices is one thing, and advising miners to arbitrarily leave any pool that exceeds some arbitrary percentage of network hashrate is something completely differeent.


Only if you take Bar as some authority figure (in the logical fallacy sense, not discounting his knowledge).

Otherwise it's a strong opinion from an informed man. It's one I tend to disagree with, because if a pool operator starts pulling shenanigans, given how (possibly rightly) paranoid miners are, it's a matter of SECONDS to pull your rigs to another pool or even to solo mining. I cannot see a pool operator successfully attacking the network for more than a minute or two. I personally see this as somewhere between a bogeyman and a cause for monitoring, not a critical issue to bitcoin. When pools were new and the network small, perhaps. Not so muich now, and not due to the honesty of pool operators (which from my observations has been pretty good).

I would be far more worried about somebody with a lot of money developing their own equipment and hitting the net all at once. Someone with the resources of Bill Gates or Sir Richard Branson could do this easily if they were so inclined. Both men I mentioned are unlikely to, as they both have good reasons not to, but the level of wealth is the point. Given that, I don't think that pool operators are a large threat. I see the above and excessive regulatory horseshit as the more likely threats to the success of bitcoin.

Which brings me to why this is on topic. Those of you wanting the asic manufacturers to hold off have a good point, but in light of the above, for the long term success of bitcoin, they should actually ramp it up somewhat to make such a proposition exceedingly difficult and expensive.

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November 21, 2013, 09:37:03 PM
 #22752

I purchased 2 of the recent fire-sale modules for my 4-port Jupiter, but needed to add a couple of pin headers to support all six modules.

I've never really soldered anything before and had no idea what I was doing, but I managed to get everything working! It took a few tries though. I made the assumption that the two blank spaces were simply solder filled holes, but no matter how hot I heated them, I couldn't melt them. I ended up just soldering to the surface.

I'm currently running my existing 4 modules on ports 2-5 so that I can simply attach the new ones onto the side of my open-case Jupiter using ports 1 and 6.

The point of me sharing this is simply to show my excitement and proof that even a noob like me can make this work!








OMFG...are you serious???  Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes
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November 21, 2013, 09:49:25 PM
 #22753

So Awesome r1senfa17h!!

i would be so scared of voiding the warranty, especially with no modules to add.....however, you did great!

If only KnC had done the job fairly for all rigs 'we' wouldnt need to risk voiding warranty/destroying our rigs AND those '200 only' modules might have sold out in 30 seconds instead of 3 minutes....

BiG IFs!
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November 21, 2013, 09:58:37 PM
 #22754

So Awesome r1senfa17h!!

i would be so scared of voiding the warranty, especially with no modules to add.....however, you did great!

If only KnC had done the job fairly for all rigs 'we' wouldnt need to risk voiding warranty/destroying our rigs AND those '200 only' modules might have sold out in 30 seconds instead of 3 minutes....

BiG IFs!

They also may have been delivered later, having taken the extra time to do that.

There is also still the issue of not having space in the case for 6 modules.

I don't know if I'd call the job "great", but he had success, so that still counts.

"All safe deposit boxes in banks or financial institutions have been sealed... and may only be opened in the presence of an agent of the I.R.S." - President F.D. Roosevelt, 1933
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November 21, 2013, 10:33:44 PM
 #22755

Here's my all-in-one Jupiter+2





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xyzzy099
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November 21, 2013, 10:43:22 PM
 #22756

Here's my all-in-one Jupiter+2

<Images edited out>


Wow, well done Smiley

Libertarians:  Diligently plotting to take over the world and leave you alone.
Paladin69
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November 21, 2013, 10:50:55 PM
 #22757

Here's my all-in-one Jupiter+2






Dude, that is bad ass.  What coolers did you buy?

EDIT:  Also, well done r1senfa17h
DimensionsOfHell
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November 21, 2013, 11:07:19 PM
 #22758

I just got my board about an hour ago. Freaking UPS took all day to deliver the damn thing. It said "Out for delivery" at 5:45AM, and it just got delivered to me at 4:58PM. They took freakin 11 hours just to do a local delivery. Anyway...

I added in the [1] upgrade board I ordered. It sits in the front right row, as my Saturn came with the back populated instead of the front. My Saturn also did not come with the air divider that the Jupiter's have, so I had to cut up a piece of cardboard box and divide the air that is coming out of the front board. The rear board was starting to get to 80c.

Now my boards are:

Mining Status

ASIC slot #1   70.5 ℃ (This is the board behind the front board)
ASIC slot #2   -
ASIC slot #3   69.5 ℃
ASIC slot #4   66.5 ℃
ASIC slot #5   -
ASIC slot #6   -

Also quick note for other who are getting their upgrade boards: KnC did NOT include screws for the boards to mount to the case, HOWEVER, look in your Arctic cooler box, there should be a bag of screws. The smallest screws there [should be 4 of them] will fit to secure the board to the case. Just use two of them.

KnC also did NOT include screws to hold the extra aluminum plate, that they include in your upgrade kit, that hold the plate in place on the cooler. You can use the remaining 2 small screws from the Arctic cooler, and screw in from the bottom up. It is very small, but it is enough to ensure that the plate does not move.


On just the two boards, I was averaging 245GH/s (I sent one board in for RMA that was only hashing at half speed, and they sent it back so that it hashed at 3/4 speed) on FW 0.99. After I added in the 3rd board it was hashing at a total of 355GH/s (20 min average).

I downgraded the FW to 0.9.8.1(beta), and the rate shot up quickly to 370GH/s within 2-3 minutes. So far after 40 minutes (as of this writing) on FW 0.9.8.1(beta), I am currently averaging 410Gh/s. So it seems the other die that was not working properly might finally be working.

If the bad die still wasn't fully working, I would've only been able to hash at a maximum of 389GH/s (245 (previous average) + 144 (best performance expectation)).

So for any of you guys that might still have bad dies, and are adding a new module(s);

Add in new module in FW 0.99 and let it run for a few mins to see how it goes, if things aren't better, try out FW 0.9.8.1(beta)

Hope this helps someone!

I'm very happy that my unit is finally working close to as it should be! :-)


EDIT: This is off KnC topic but I've gotta ask (and I didn't want to add another off topic post) because I'm confused with what is going with the Eligius pool.



Those last two payments, how come they say "S" on them? I've received the 0.1995... BTC payment on the top , but not the 0.1757... BTC payment that was supposed to be on the 17th. I don't want to mine on Eligius if I'm not going to be getting my BTC payments. Anyone know if that is normal? Some payments get delayed a long time?

Sorry for the off topic questions, but I would really appreciate an answer from someone that knows what is going on. I don't want to lose $128 (current exchange rate).
Phoenix1969
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November 21, 2013, 11:29:43 PM
 #22759

Yep, I went back to beta as well. 0.99 just isn't as fast for me either.
the last 3 hours look to be alot less at the pool..
http://eligius.st/~wizkid057/newstats/userstats.php/1LnqQzhbp1udcqByNZWnveHXJorDuJHWRs
just switched back 5 mins ago...


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ncs0ne
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November 21, 2013, 11:44:39 PM
 #22760

Bitcoinorama mentioned "ghosts in the system", remember ?
Now I had a visit.
I changed the hosting location to another room. I guess they don't like this ?

I shut down miners via "shutdown -h now", then PSU off, after the light turns off. I'm used to do it this way, feels better than hard kill through PSU switch off, what corrupted my system image once ago. Simple Reset did not help, had to disconnect all boards and stuff until it finally worked again.

Ok, new location, plug in, start up. The light and everything blinking ok.
SSH to miner1 takes longer than usual, but successful. Same for #2.

Then cgminer had no connection to the pool on both miners.
cmd "route" output looked good, ping from miner 1->2 & 2-> 1 was fine, ping from miner1&2->laptop was fine, ping from laptop to router was fine, ping from miner1+2 -> router TIMEOUT! So confusing  Huh

As Next, I shutdown & restarted the network switch, did not help. Then switching ports, cables, plug off/on the power-line ethernet and all other network hardware involved. Miners shutdown as well. Restarted step by step all hardware, tried stuff on its own and as last the miners again.

Nothing changed. Still takes ages for ssh to connect, but successful.
Setting network config in the webgui did not help either. Looking onto my router none of both has requested an IP address nor assigned, my router told me. All the time I connected via wifi to this router and through it to the miners, to their fixed IPs they get from the router.  Huh !!

Scratching my head, I thought ok let's see what "ps | grep dhc" shows, then I killed the dhcp-client and restarted it with same parameters shown by the mentioned ps cmd.
Code:
udhcpc -b -x hostname MyMinersHostname eth0
Smiley BINGO! That helped to scare the ghosts away, router showed me immediately registered clients (both miners), ssh was working as fast as usual again and they were already hashing away when I was checking them. ~30min downtime hurts, I need to learn some digital voodoo or else to prevent similar stuff when changing the location next time  Cheesy

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