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Author Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive ASICMiner Blade Setup  (Read 579519 times)
twib2
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January 26, 2014, 02:49:32 AM
 #1301

My problem with the all O's but not hashing:

My problem turned out to be related to a wifi repeater. After unplugging it, the blade picked right up. Thanks to all for the suggestions.

Glad you found the bad actor on the network.  Mine was a bad wifi router.  Another network-woe-sensitivity data point.

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January 26, 2014, 03:26:36 AM
 #1302

My problem with the all O's but not hashing:

My problem turned out to be related to a wifi repeater. After unplugging it, the blade picked right up. Thanks to all for the suggestions.

Glad you found the bad actor on the network.  Mine was a bad wifi router.  Another network-woe-sensitivity data point.

Sometimes if a cellphone is  hooked to your network/Router there will be sporadic connection.

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January 26, 2014, 01:54:53 PM
 #1303

I tried to wire it as in the OP, molex splitter, two yellow cables going to the + of the blade and four black to the -. I always considered myself somewhat sloppy when it comes to dealing with hardware, it is possible i have messed it up with screwing? there are 4 of these screws on the connecter, what should be their position?

Facing the screws, the two left screws are GND, the two right screws are +12V

You don't need to connect all 4 terminals, you can use only one of each (as long as you have enough wires for 10A per Blade)

Im using 550W PSU, i have two of those, decided to go with them because they have two 12v lines each. Heres the exact model http://www.super-flower.com.tw/products_detail.php?class=2&sn=12&ID=110&lang=en

This PSU should be enough for up to 4 Blades

Btw status CHIP:OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO is displayed even if not hashing?

Yes. I don't know what's wrong if not the PSU. All the doc I've seen mentions either a faulty PSU or something awful when you only get x's instead of O's and it persists over cold restarts. Are you sure that they were OK in the first place?

About the polairty, isnt it the opposite? Because minus (-) is drawn on the left side on the back side of the blade, while + on the right one. Just opened a brand new blade, same situation status XXX. The first time i powered the other blade i remeber the psu's fan starting to move and the heatsink on the blade got warm, but i had issues with my router then. Ever since it just gets powered and the psu's fan is silent.Theres something else i remeber about the intial powering of the blade i remeber i didnt mount the screws, i just stuck the cables in (they seemed loosely), is it possible that i have messed up something with the cables  Huh

My source seemed reliable, i hope they are ok.

Theres something about the OP i couldnt understand "Remember to plug the 10A fuse [red disk] in, either way round will do." any clarification on that?
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January 27, 2014, 12:01:01 AM
 #1304

I think confusions are arising because of differences between V1 and V2 blades.

My previous post about polarity was based on my V1 blades, here's how they look from under the PCB:



As you can see, the + is on the left and the - on the right. It's possible that it was actually reversed on V2 blades. If so, it's very fortunate that you're pointing this out - always use polarity according to the PCB, since guides (for the other version) could be misleading.

Then about the fuse, V1 Blades required the owner to plug in a 10A fuse for operation, the kind that is also used in automobiles. As far as I know, V2 Blades use SMD style fuses (smaller package, soldered in), rated 8A, and these seem to be more problematic. However, you don't need to plug them in on setup - they're already onboard.

I'm afraid I can't help you with the rest though. If you ever get the chance to try another PSU, that's a possible cause that you could rule out for sure. If that fails and you still only get X's, I would go for RMA or try to arrange something with the seller maybe?
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January 27, 2014, 07:16:34 PM
 #1305

I swapped the psu with my desktop psu, i got the status OOO but now it just restarts itself after ~2 minutes of doing nothing. The mining proxy seems to cause my OS to freeze every now and then

http://s14.postimg.org/cl9mpqqgv/Untitled.png

Any ideas?  Huh
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January 27, 2014, 11:02:09 PM
 #1306

I swapped the psu with my desktop psu, i got the status OOO but now it just restarts itself after ~2 minutes of doing nothing. The mining proxy seems to cause my OS to freeze every now and then

http://s14.postimg.org/cl9mpqqgv/Untitled.png

Any ideas?  Huh

From another node on your network, you could attempt a TCP connection to 192.168.1.101:8332 just to make sure that nothing on either your network or OS or whatever is blocking incoming connections to your proxy. Otherwise, I can't see any reason, many people reported that Blades are *very* sensitive to network issues that are generally not causing problems to other devices.
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January 28, 2014, 05:33:53 PM
 #1307

I swapped the psu with my desktop psu, i got the status OOO but now it just restarts itself after ~2 minutes of doing nothing. The mining proxy seems to cause my OS to freeze every now and then

http://s14.postimg.org/cl9mpqqgv/Untitled.png

Any ideas?  Huh

From another node on your network, you could attempt a TCP connection to 192.168.1.101:8332 just to make sure that nothing on either your network or OS or whatever is blocking incoming connections to your proxy. Otherwise, I can't see any reason, many people reported that Blades are *very* sensitive to network issues that are generally not causing problems to other devices.

I had intermittent problems using wifi with my Blades.  I bought a used switch and hard wired, instant 10.8ghs and runs for days and days with out problem.  Using Pi with bfgminer proxy.
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February 02, 2014, 09:37:00 PM
 #1308

I swapped the psu with my desktop psu, i got the status OOO but now it just restarts itself after ~2 minutes of doing nothing. The mining proxy seems to cause my OS to freeze every now and then

http://s14.postimg.org/cl9mpqqgv/Untitled.png

Any ideas?  Huh

From another node on your network, you could attempt a TCP connection to 192.168.1.101:8332 just to make sure that nothing on either your network or OS or whatever is blocking incoming connections to your proxy. Otherwise, I can't see any reason, many people reported that Blades are *very* sensitive to network issues that are generally not causing problems to other devices.

I had intermittent problems using wifi with my Blades.  I bought a used switch and hard wired, instant 10.8ghs and runs for days and days with out problem.  Using Pi with bfgminer proxy.
+1 to random network topology problems

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February 05, 2014, 01:11:57 AM
 #1309

hello all
big problem
after 2 hours yellow burned What is the solution ?
http://www4.0zz0.com/2014/02/05/01/896401878.jpg
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February 05, 2014, 03:14:57 AM
 #1310

hello all
big problem
after 2 hours yellow burned What is the solution ?


Was this a factory made (soldered) Molex connector or "home made"? I'm asking this because the naked end of the two 12V (yellow) wires seem to have been twisted together, it seems unusual to be, but I may be wrong or in may be the result / visual artefacts of melting. From personal experience, bare wires inserted straight into a PCI-e 6/8 pin or Molex connector almost ends up badly after a few days when not just hours. Generally it starts overheating, any traction on wires may cause short circuits - at best just sparks and PSU shutdown, possibly nastier. Meltdown with soot on wires with also occur after overheating becomes excessive.

It would be interesting to see how you had wired the other end too, on the Blade side.
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February 06, 2014, 12:19:23 AM
 #1311

I have a v1 blade and I am looking for some information on overclocking it.
When I overclock the board it actually slows down the hash rate from 10 to about 8ghz. All of the chips show fine .
I have scoured the internet for information about this but have so far come up empty. Is this potentially a voltage issue? The board is running cool to the touch, so I would not think it a heat issue.
This is the only blade on a 400watt power supply.

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thank you,
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February 06, 2014, 07:49:19 AM
 #1312

I have a v1 blade and I am looking for some information on overclocking it.
When I overclock the board it actually slows down the hash rate from 10 to about 8ghz. All of the chips show fine .
I have scoured the internet for information about this but have so far come up empty. Is this potentially a voltage issue? The board is running cool to the touch, so I would not think it a heat issue.
This is the only blade on a 400watt power supply.

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thank you,


Either voltage or power issues. Probably maxing out the cable.

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February 07, 2014, 04:52:21 PM
 #1313

Hi ya'll

I wonder, does anyone know how to reset the V2 blades to factory default?

Thanks,

Michael
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February 07, 2014, 05:44:51 PM
 #1314

I wonder, does anyone know how to reset the V2 blades to factory default?

You need to short "pins" (actually holes on V2) 2 and 3 just on the right of the Ethernet connector.
If you look at the PCB it should be written 'Factory Reset' on it, next to these pins
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February 08, 2014, 12:50:11 AM
 #1315

Hi ya'll

I wonder, does anyone know how to reset the V2 blades to factory default?

Thanks,

Michael



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Datelli
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February 08, 2014, 11:29:06 AM
 #1316

Matt & Mike,

thanks for your help and swift reply, much appriciated!

Cheers,

Michael
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February 08, 2014, 12:19:32 PM
 #1317

HELP?

http://www.coolermaster.com/powersupply/gxii-series/gxii-650w/ <-- can this cube overclock to HIGH MODE?



Ask cube stuff in the cube thread please. But yes.

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February 08, 2014, 04:49:34 PM
 #1318

OP has been updated with new PSUs, fan controllers, fans and more information.

alwaysthirsty
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February 09, 2014, 06:22:14 PM
 #1319

I need help guys, after hashinh for several days my cables at the molex splitters started melting.  Huh
dogie
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February 09, 2014, 06:26:28 PM
 #1320

I need help guys, after hashinh for several days my cables at the molex splitters started melting.  Huh
See the OP again, the recommendations is NOT to use a molex connector. Plenty of links and information there.

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