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Author Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive ASICMiner Blade Setup  (Read 579618 times)
superiorus
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October 15, 2013, 09:34:57 AM
 #901

Is this a old or new type blade ?
If its the old type and you are using the high clock setting it may need the working voltage increasing.
Guide here http://bcoinnews.com/overclock

is a new blade, has a week of use.

Does anyone know how to have Superiorus check the fuses on the board.  I dunno where to beging trouble shooting hardware


When I got my blades, I got two replacement fuses also. They should be in a little bag.  VERY easy to miss as they are so small.  I think they just pop out? obv turn off blade first.....

is not the fuse ...  when the fuse is broken the blade don;t start at all.

mine is starting , i can acces the configuration page , but i have that error :  chip :  xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

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October 15, 2013, 10:46:04 AM
 #902

Is this a old or new type blade ?
If its the old type and you are using the high clock setting it may need the working voltage increasing.
Guide here http://bcoinnews.com/overclock

is a new blade, has a week of use.

Does anyone know how to have Superiorus check the fuses on the board.  I dunno where to beging trouble shooting hardware


When I got my blades, I got two replacement fuses also. They should be in a little bag.  VERY easy to miss as they are so small.  I think they just pop out? obv turn off blade first.....

is not the fuse ...  when the fuse is broken the blade don;t start at all.

mine is starting , i can acces the configuration page , but i have that error :  chip :  xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
PM me some pictures of your wiring and cooling setup.

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October 15, 2013, 02:34:22 PM
 #903

Well i would try a diff psu, as running some fans is not the same as supplying the amps a blade needs.

+1

I run 2 Blades with a PSU delivering 14A and 15A, wenn i connected the 3rd it took 2-3 hours 'til overheated and shut down! And yes, i know what i did and monitored the setup right next to me for several hours. 3rd Blade is now powered by another spare PSU  Cool

Anyone tried powering them with high power 12V LED drivers? Some models deliver up to 600W or 700W at 12V, enough to keep 4 or 5 Blades running!
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October 15, 2013, 03:32:16 PM
 #904

Well i would try a diff psu, as running some fans is not the same as supplying the amps a blade needs.

+1

I run 2 Blades with a PSU delivering 14A and 15A, wenn i connected the 3rd it took 2-3 hours 'til overheated and shut down! And yes, i know what i did and monitored the setup right next to me for several hours. 3rd Blade is now powered by another spare PSU  Cool

Anyone tried powering them with high power 12V LED drivers? Some models deliver up to 600W or 700W at 12V, enough to keep 4 or 5 Blades running!

it was working ok for 3 days with the same configuration.

i have only 1 balde wirch is powered by 1 PSU , i think that should be enough.

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October 16, 2013, 12:04:39 PM
 #905

Well i would try a diff psu, as running some fans is not the same as supplying the amps a blade needs.

+1

I run 2 Blades with a PSU delivering 14A and 15A, wenn i connected the 3rd it took 2-3 hours 'til overheated and shut down! And yes, i know what i did and monitored the setup right next to me for several hours. 3rd Blade is now powered by another spare PSU  Cool

Anyone tried powering them with high power 12V LED drivers? Some models deliver up to 600W or 700W at 12V, enough to keep 4 or 5 Blades running!

I use this, with 2-3 connected to it, and it works like a champ: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

charles2k
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October 16, 2013, 10:44:27 PM
 #906

Is this server PSU compatible with backplane and new blades?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HP-NETZTEIL-POWER-SUPPLY-DL380-G5-DL385-G2-ML350-G5-ML370-G5-403781-001-/400291816727
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October 18, 2013, 09:31:26 PM
 #907

ok, I'm sett5ing up an old style blade. I have this issue:

Quote
Also, a bit of a tip for fresh asic Blade Runners (heh):
The initial post doesn't tell that your home network should be in the same subnet than your Blade. Blade's subnet is originally 192.168.1.x 255.255.255.0. My home network is 192.168.0.x 255.255.255.0, so I had a little bit of trouble at connecting the Blade's config page. The only thing I could do was to change my home network to the Blade's original one (and my PCs ip address too, at least to automatic and release and renew the address), change the Blade's subnet and other settings to 192.168.0.x and revert my home networks setting to the one that all my other network devices use (easier this way than to convert all the other devices to use 192.168.1.x subnet).

I'm not real comfortable messing with my router. Is there some other way to change the Blade to 192.168.0.xxx? Since this is a common problem they should have used more than one IP and made it selectable with a DIP switch.

If you have a crossover cable around you can plug the blade straight into your network card in your pc. You will manually have to set the pc's Ip to match the blades current configuration for the ip subnet.

Then navigate to the blade settings, change them to work with your router configuration. Then disconnect the blade and plug it into the router, it should find it by then. Restore your pc original Ip setting and you should be up an running
I have been avoiding this because i just knew i was going to have problems, and i am.
I got a crossover cable. I have changed the IP on an old XP laptop to 192.168.1.99. I set the mask to 255.255.255.0. i tried to use my browser to connect to 192.168.1.254:8000 and have had no success. Where do i go from here? I tried pinging that address and had no success, but i figure it just doesn't have ping running.
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October 18, 2013, 10:31:18 PM
 #908

ok, I'm sett5ing up an old style blade. I have this issue:

Quote
Also, a bit of a tip for fresh asic Blade Runners (heh):
The initial post doesn't tell that your home network should be in the same subnet than your Blade. Blade's subnet is originally 192.168.1.x 255.255.255.0. My home network is 192.168.0.x 255.255.255.0, so I had a little bit of trouble at connecting the Blade's config page. The only thing I could do was to change my home network to the Blade's original one (and my PCs ip address too, at least to automatic and release and renew the address), change the Blade's subnet and other settings to 192.168.0.x and revert my home networks setting to the one that all my other network devices use (easier this way than to convert all the other devices to use 192.168.1.x subnet).

I'm not real comfortable messing with my router. Is there some other way to change the Blade to 192.168.0.xxx? Since this is a common problem they should have used more than one IP and made it selectable with a DIP switch.

If you have a crossover cable around you can plug the blade straight into your network card in your pc. You will manually have to set the pc's Ip to match the blades current configuration for the ip subnet.

Then navigate to the blade settings, change them to work with your router configuration. Then disconnect the blade and plug it into the router, it should find it by then. Restore your pc original Ip setting and you should be up an running
I have been avoiding this because i just knew i was going to have problems, and i am.
I got a crossover cable. I have changed the IP on an old XP laptop to 192.168.1.99. I set the mask to 255.255.255.0. i tried to use my browser to connect to 192.168.1.254:8000 and have had no success. Where do i go from here? I tried pinging that address and had no success, but i figure it just doesn't have ping running.

Log-in to your router and make sure the Ip range is set to 254, My router only allowed up to 192.168.1.199. so I had to change it to cover the Blade.  What type of router do you have. I can try and help you set it up
Trongersoll
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October 18, 2013, 10:39:24 PM
 #909

ok, I'm sett5ing up an old style blade. I have this issue:

Quote
Also, a bit of a tip for fresh asic Blade Runners (heh):
The initial post doesn't tell that your home network should be in the same subnet than your Blade. Blade's subnet is originally 192.168.1.x 255.255.255.0. My home network is 192.168.0.x 255.255.255.0, so I had a little bit of trouble at connecting the Blade's config page. The only thing I could do was to change my home network to the Blade's original one (and my PCs ip address too, at least to automatic and release and renew the address), change the Blade's subnet and other settings to 192.168.0.x and revert my home networks setting to the one that all my other network devices use (easier this way than to convert all the other devices to use 192.168.1.x subnet).

I'm not real comfortable messing with my router. Is there some other way to change the Blade to 192.168.0.xxx? Since this is a common problem they should have used more than one IP and made it selectable with a DIP switch.

If you have a crossover cable around you can plug the blade straight into your network card in your pc. You will manually have to set the pc's Ip to match the blades current configuration for the ip subnet.

Then navigate to the blade settings, change them to work with your router configuration. Then disconnect the blade and plug it into the router, it should find it by then. Restore your pc original Ip setting and you should be up an running
I have been avoiding this because i just knew i was going to have problems, and i am.
I got a crossover cable. I have changed the IP on an old XP laptop to 192.168.1.99. I set the mask to 255.255.255.0. i tried to use my browser to connect to 192.168.1.254:8000 and have had no success. Where do i go from here? I tried pinging that address and had no success, but i figure it just doesn't have ping running.

Log-in to your router and make sure the Ip range is set to 254, My router only allowed up to 192.168.1.199. so I had to change it to cover the Blade.  What type of router do you have. I can try and help you set it up
I'm using a crossover cable in an effort to avoid messing with my router. my router is 192.168.0.1 not 1.1
i3lome
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October 18, 2013, 11:10:14 PM
 #910

ok, I'm sett5ing up an old style blade. I have this issue:

Quote
Also, a bit of a tip for fresh asic Blade Runners (heh):
The initial post doesn't tell that your home network should be in the same subnet than your Blade. Blade's subnet is originally 192.168.1.x 255.255.255.0. My home network is 192.168.0.x 255.255.255.0, so I had a little bit of trouble at connecting the Blade's config page. The only thing I could do was to change my home network to the Blade's original one (and my PCs ip address too, at least to automatic and release and renew the address), change the Blade's subnet and other settings to 192.168.0.x and revert my home networks setting to the one that all my other network devices use (easier this way than to convert all the other devices to use 192.168.1.x subnet).

I'm not real comfortable messing with my router. Is there some other way to change the Blade to 192.168.0.xxx? Since this is a common problem they should have used more than one IP and made it selectable with a DIP switch.

If you have a crossover cable around you can plug the blade straight into your network card in your pc. You will manually have to set the pc's Ip to match the blades current configuration for the ip subnet.

Then navigate to the blade settings, change them to work with your router configuration. Then disconnect the blade and plug it into the router, it should find it by then. Restore your pc original Ip setting and you should be up an running
I have been avoiding this because i just knew i was going to have problems, and i am.
I got a crossover cable. I have changed the IP on an old XP laptop to 192.168.1.99. I set the mask to 255.255.255.0. i tried to use my browser to connect to 192.168.1.254:8000 and have had no success. Where do i go from here? I tried pinging that address and had no success, but i figure it just doesn't have ping running.

Log-in to your router and make sure the Ip range is set to 254, My router only allowed up to 192.168.1.199. so I had to change it to cover the Blade.  What type of router do you have. I can try and help you set it up
I'm using a crossover cable in an effort to avoid messing with my router. my router is 192.168.0.1 not 1.1
Can you show me- What settings you have when you manually set the ip.
Did u also , set the primary Dns to 192.168.1.1
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October 19, 2013, 01:15:41 PM
 #911

Anyone got Blades with the green PCB from the last batch?

Mines arrived yesterday, compared to the blue ones i have:

  • Fuse is soldered to the PCB, no replacement is shipped with the Blade Undecided
  • No pins soldered for resetting the Blade
  • there are 5mm of the PCB missing on the left side (MOLEX-Plug right in front of you) Huh Huh
  • so there are no drilled holes on the left side to stack a number of Blades  Angry
  • Circle on the lower left corner: seems as the 5mm on the right side were about to be cut off, too. There's a thin cut from both sides on the PCB
  • the heat conductive foil has various gaps between PCB and cooler you can read a newspaper through, this will cause overheating ASICS and shortened lifetime  Roll Eyes



Are other Blades from the latest batch manufactured and assembled in the same shitty way or am i just a bit unlucky?!
Trongersoll
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October 20, 2013, 08:33:35 PM
 #912

ok, I'm sett5ing up an old style blade. I have this issue:

Quote
Also, a bit of a tip for fresh asic Blade Runners (heh):
The initial post doesn't tell that your home network should be in the same subnet than your Blade. Blade's subnet is originally 192.168.1.x 255.255.255.0. My home network is 192.168.0.x 255.255.255.0, so I had a little bit of trouble at connecting the Blade's config page. The only thing I could do was to change my home network to the Blade's original one (and my PCs ip address too, at least to automatic and release and renew the address), change the Blade's subnet and other settings to 192.168.0.x and revert my home networks setting to the one that all my other network devices use (easier this way than to convert all the other devices to use 192.168.1.x subnet).

I'm not real comfortable messing with my router. Is there some other way to change the Blade to 192.168.0.xxx? Since this is a common problem they should have used more than one IP and made it selectable with a DIP switch.

If you have a crossover cable around you can plug the blade straight into your network card in your pc. You will manually have to set the pc's Ip to match the blades current configuration for the ip subnet.

Then navigate to the blade settings, change them to work with your router configuration. Then disconnect the blade and plug it into the router, it should find it by then. Restore your pc original Ip setting and you should be up an running
I have been avoiding this because i just knew i was going to have problems, and i am.
I got a crossover cable. I have changed the IP on an old XP laptop to 192.168.1.99. I set the mask to 255.255.255.0. i tried to use my browser to connect to 192.168.1.254:8000 and have had no success. Where do i go from here? I tried pinging that address and had no success, but i figure it just doesn't have ping running.

Log-in to your router and make sure the Ip range is set to 254, My router only allowed up to 192.168.1.199. so I had to change it to cover the Blade.  What type of router do you have. I can try and help you set it up
I'm using a crossover cable in an effort to avoid messing with my router. my router is 192.168.0.1 not 1.1
Well i got it working. The issue was that one of the windows network apps had to be enabled. Networking is not my forte. So i managed to change the IP on one blade and connected it to my network. it immediately found the proxy server and started chugging along.

There is a lot of stuff scrolling up the Proxy server window. This is Slush Proxy. I'm seeing some kind of Warning message, but it seems to be hashing ok, is this normal?
hendo420
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October 20, 2013, 08:39:15 PM
 #913

Anyone got Blades with the green PCB from the last batch?

Mines arrived yesterday, compared to the blue ones i have:

  • Fuse is soldered to the PCB, no replacement is shipped with the Blade Undecided
  • No pins soldered for resetting the Blade
  • there are 5mm of the PCB missing on the left side (MOLEX-Plug right in front of you) Huh Huh
  • so there are no drilled holes on the left side to stack a number of Blades  Angry
  • Circle on the lower left corner: seems as the 5mm on the right side were about to be cut off, too. There's a thin cut from both sides on the PCB
  • the heat conductive foil has various gaps between PCB and cooler you can read a newspaper through, this will cause overheating ASICS and shortened lifetime  Roll Eyes
http://i.imgur.com/vgZUWla.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hu5bnZO.jpg

Are other Blades from the latest batch manufactured and assembled in the same shitty way or am i just a bit unlucky?!

This kind of stuff is going to happen as their profit margin shrinks. The less money you pay for the item the less money they can pay their workers and Quality Assurance. I believe these blades are selling very close to manufacture costs now.

42 The Meaning of Life and CryptoCurrency       http://www.coingig.com/Hendo420
z0ki
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October 21, 2013, 02:30:08 PM
 #914

Hi,

I have a strange issue with my v2 blades.
They are new and this is the first time I try to run them.
The issues is that their hash rate goes up to 5Gh/s than falls back to 0 than up again but never above 5Gh/s.

I tried with mining_proxy and with bfgminer and with both it's the same behaviour.
BFG miner marks the proxy as sick.

I also tried using a different switch but same result.

I checked the voltage and it seems to be fine. The temperature is ok as they are in a server room with good air flow.
All chips are marked O.

Anyone had this kind of issue ?

Thanks.
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October 21, 2013, 09:42:34 PM
 #915

I've had a v1 blade for about six or seven weeks now.  It started out with four xxxx, but I didn't feel like sending it in for replacement as I'd be losing valuable lower-difficulty mining time.

As of the last week, however, it started getting all xxx's until I did a hard reset.  I lowered the voltage down to 1.15 and it seems more stable now, but I can never get above around 7500 MH/s and 16-17% efficiency.

Anyone have any ideas?

http://anonymouse.org/cgi-bin/anon-www.cgi/http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6163/arru.png
i3lome
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October 21, 2013, 09:48:04 PM
 #916

Hi,

I have a strange issue with my v2 blades.
They are new and this is the first time I try to run them.
The issues is that their hash rate goes up to 5Gh/s than falls back to 0 than up again but never above 5Gh/s.

I tried with mining_proxy and with bfgminer and with both it's the same behaviour.
BFG miner marks the proxy as sick.

I also tried using a different switch but same result.

I checked the voltage and it seems to be fine. The temperature is ok as they are in a server room with good air flow.
All chips are marked O.

Anyone had this kind of issue ?

Thanks.
I had to upgrade my Router. I had an old Dlink, kept droppring connection. Switched to a New Dual Band Belkin and works like a charm
vesperwillow
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October 22, 2013, 12:43:08 PM
 #917

I've had a v1 blade for about six or seven weeks now.  It started out with four xxxx, but I didn't feel like sending it in for replacement as I'd be losing valuable lower-difficulty mining time.

As of the last week, however, it started getting all xxx's until I did a hard reset.  I lowered the voltage down to 1.15 and it seems more stable now, but I can never get above around 7500 MH/s and 16-17% efficiency.

Anyone have any ideas?




At that voltage I presume you're overclocking? Make sure you're checking voltage properly, with the ground probe directly on the power plug of the PCB and the other probe on the VRM output. Next, I'd check the output of all the VRM's to see what they are. Most of my overclocked blades worked best when set to 1.185. Sometimes they could go lower but not usually.

If you aren't overclocking I'd suggest 1.045-1.07.

Make sure your cooling is adequate also. I'm using one fan per blade, each fan is at least 105cfm, some are 125. The fan is oriented beneath the blade blowing up across both sides of the blade. This keeps them pretty much cold to the touch.

As to the hashing, my effective hash rate for most OC'd blades is above that. I'm presuming cooling and voltage inconsistancies are causing you issues. Also, I would suggest BFG proxy if you aren't already using it.

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October 22, 2013, 02:12:03 PM
 #918

Hi,

I have a strange issue with my v2 blades.
They are new and this is the first time I try to run them.
The issues is that their hash rate goes up to 5Gh/s than falls back to 0 than up again but never above 5Gh/s.
...
I also tried using a different switch but same result.
...
Anyone had this kind of issue ?

Thanks.
I had to upgrade my Router. I had an old Dlink, kept droppring connection. Switched to a New Dual Band Belkin and works like a charm

My old setup: 3x Blades->3Com OfficeConnect HUB(!!!)->cable->TPLink Router->WLAN->Stratum Proxy->WLAN-> TPLink Router->Internet

Sometimes the connection between Blades and Proxy went down for unknown reason. Someone mentioned to keep mobiles with enabled WiFi/WLAN away or turn WiFi/WLAN off, followed that hint and all running stable!

Actual setup: 3x Blades->3Com Hub  Cool ->cable->Stratum Proxy->WLAN->TPLink Router->Internet

Load on the network Blades/Hub/Proxy is about 3%-6% max, collision LED sometimes flashing.   
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October 22, 2013, 04:15:05 PM
 #919


At that voltage I presume you're overclocking? Make sure you're checking voltage properly, with the ground probe directly on the power plug of the PCB and the other probe on the VRM output. Next, I'd check the output of all the VRM's to see what they are. Most of my overclocked blades worked best when set to 1.185. Sometimes they could go lower but not usually.

If you aren't overclocking I'd suggest 1.045-1.07.

Make sure your cooling is adequate also. I'm using one fan per blade, each fan is at least 105cfm, some are 125. The fan is oriented beneath the blade blowing up across both sides of the blade. This keeps them pretty much cold to the touch.

As to the hashing, my effective hash rate for most OC'd blades is above that. I'm presuming cooling and voltage inconsistancies are causing you issues. Also, I would suggest BFG proxy if you aren't already using it.

Thanks for the response.  I meter the board as per this video http://youtu.be/M4PP9XnNKnA?t=2m24s.  I do meter all VRMs.  I have three fans on the blade.  One on each side blowing across the PCB and a third larger fan blowing across the entire area.  Yes, over-clocked.

I used to get between 10 and 11 GH/s with these settings consistently.  This is running at my office, and this is what I found this morning.  Two hard resets haven't changed it so far.

http://107.imagebam.com/download/gG93PB0huLqVYvLWkiL8vg/28331/283306562/2013-10-22_091316.png

I haven't switched to BFG.  I'm still on proxy_miner and Slush's Pool.
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October 22, 2013, 05:18:31 PM
 #920

I would try upping the voltage in steps of .05 to a max of 1.25 to see if that brings the chips to life.

I see you have the clock set to low, or else it's forcing itself down. Make sure to set it high and then reset afterward, inbetween each voltage increase. When I was tuning mine, after every reset I had to wait a few seconds (10 I think) for the blade to put itself under load. I'm sure you're doing the same, but just a general reminder to use the voltage readings  while it's under load.

The only other suggestion I would make is to take away the 2 fans blowing on the faces of the blade and let the one blowing across do the work, unless they're all really low output, less than 55CFM let's say. 70+ CFM blowing air in a cross manner like that might cause too much disturbance and prevent good air cooling.

You couldn't tell my blades are under full load by touching them, they barely register a noticable warmth to the touch.

I mention this because I've noticed on the Gen1 blades, even slight warmth can kill performance. Before I changed my fan setup they were "somewhat warm" to the touch, but would sometimes be stuck around 5-8GH. New fan setup, and they're 14GH+, effective rate of around 11-12.

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