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Author Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive ASICMiner Blade Setup  (Read 579620 times)
DKO
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December 14, 2013, 07:47:26 AM
 #1221

After about an hour now it has averaged out about 98%. All good.

Got my head around this now I think haha.
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December 14, 2013, 01:07:53 PM
 #1222

Ah, you're running them both out of a single batch file instead of straight from multiple consoles. Good to hear you got it figured out.

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December 14, 2013, 09:32:02 PM
 #1223

I have a V2 blade which has gone through three of those tiny fuses. It runs great other than that. What am I doing wrong?

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December 14, 2013, 10:14:07 PM
 #1224

I have a V2 blade which has gone through three of those tiny fuses. It runs great other than that. What am I doing wrong?

Obviously you board is drawing too much current, so you must find the sucker. V2 Blades don't have voltage tuning unlike V1s, so I would rule out too high voltage. If you have connected fans to the white 2-pin power connectors, or anything else, they would be my first suspects.

Otherwise, if you are running the Blade vertically and/or there is nothing under the board that could create any ghost current, I would check the PSU voltage, for some reason it might be above 12V (would be weird, never seen that). If the PSU is okay, I would blame faulty components on the power lanes (inductors, capacitors, etc) or maybe even faulty chips. It that's the cause indeed, I'm afraid you'll have to go for a RMA.
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December 14, 2013, 10:21:43 PM
 #1225

I have a V2 blade which has gone through three of those tiny fuses. It runs great other than that. What am I doing wrong?

Obviously you board is drawing too much current, so you must find the sucker. V2 Blades don't have voltage tuning unlike V1s, so I would rule out too high voltage. If you have connected fans to the white 2-pin power connectors, or anything else, they would be my first suspects.

Otherwise, if you are running the Blade vertically and/or there is nothing under the board that could create any ghost current, I would check the PSU voltage, for some reason it might be above 12V (would be weird, never seen that). If the PSU is okay, I would blame faulty components on the power lanes (inductors, capacitors, etc) or maybe even faulty chips. It that's the cause indeed, I'm afraid you'll have to go for a RMA.

Ugh. No fans attached. And I have used 2 different power supplies with the unit, so -- it probably isn't them, as fuses have been blown while attached to each. And it is running vertically.

Thanks.

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December 14, 2013, 10:29:01 PM
 #1226

Ugh. No fans attached. And I have used 2 different power supplies with the unit, so -- it probably isn't them, as fuses have been blown while attached to each. And it is running vertically.

Thanks.

How long have you been running them on average before the fuses got burnt?

If you have a multimeter, did you try to measure the amperage drawn from the 12V lines by the Blade?
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December 15, 2013, 04:34:05 AM
 #1227

I think an undervolt is more likely to blow the fuse - if the input power is constant, and the input voltage is reduced then the input current draw goes up. Given it's behaved the same on two different power supplies that's sorta unlikely.
One possibility is one of the VRMs isn't tuned quite right and it's getting shoot-through currents through the switching transistors. Could be erratic, could be low enough to strain the fuse but not blow it straightaway. My first test blade ran for 30 hours pulling 11+A through the supposed 8A fast-blow fuse, so it's also unlikely but possible that the fuses he's using are underspec.

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December 15, 2013, 08:44:27 AM
 #1228

Ah, you're running them both out of a single batch file instead of straight from multiple consoles. Good to hear you got it figured out.

Cheers. Yeah I should have mentioned that.
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December 17, 2013, 02:26:44 AM
 #1229

Hi there.

I need a little help.
I bought this BEB 10.7GHs Rev2 at amazon on 16-nov. It was delivered on time in USA but I live in Venezuela. So It was stored a couple of weeks at the currier company I use to import stuff to my country with other things I bought. I received it here in Venezuela just today.

It was factory sealed and packed properly with protective foam. Nice.

But it seems to be DOA.
It does nothing when I power it on, no warms up, no ethernet leds blinking.

I try these online guides but there was no success.
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=204030.0
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=205369.0
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=288787.0

I also check the power pins on the board with a multimeter and it's ok.
It shows 12 Vdc with polarirty in same direction showed in the board, so is not a power supply problem.


I also checked F1 box which seems to be a fuse location, it shows -12Vdc keeping polarity in same direction that power pins.

Although I can not read at a glance, thanks to macro photo I can do it now.

Reset: I guess these works like jumpers of any motherboard.
1-2 normal
2-3 factory reset

Debug: I guess this is a conection port for diagnostics with 7-segment display or something like that.
Tx: Transmission
Rx: Reception
GND: ground

MCLR: memory clear
+3.3v: obvious
PGD: no idea
PGC: no idea

F1: fuse box with a resistor I guess.

X12, X13, X14: Fan conections?

I emailed the seller but still no answer.
I can sent it back to the seller in the USA via fedex if necessary in order to get a replace.
But if I missed some step to get it work, please let me know.

Any sugestion to make this thing work properly?

Thanks in advance.-

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December 17, 2013, 04:01:53 AM
 #1230

You read 12V at the fuse? Which side of the fuse? Measure for voltage across it: - on one side, + on the other, and you should see awful close to zero volts. If you see anything other than zero volts, the fuse is blown.

Did you check for voltage at the 3.3V output? Measure for 3.3V across C286, for 12V across C165, and for 1.05V across C288.

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December 17, 2013, 07:09:16 AM
 #1231

You read 12V at the fuse? Which side of the fuse? Measure for voltage across it: - on one side, + on the other, and you should see awful close to zero volts. If you see anything other than zero volts, the fuse is blown.

Did you check for voltage at the 3.3V output? Measure for 3.3V across C286, for 12V across C165, and for 1.05V across C288.

These are the readings I took:

C165 = -2.2mV (Orange).......... should be 12V
C286 = 1.3mV (Yellow).......... should be 3.3V
C288 = 0 (Ligth Blue).......... should be 1.05V
F1 = -12.12v (Pink).......... should be 0V
Power Pins Input Conector = 12.13v (Pink) it's OK

F1 = fuse right? So it's blown.
I must replace it first.
How much Amps can it handle?
10A@12V?

After replacing the F1 fuse; readings (C165, C286, C288) should back to normal?
Or something else could be blown or broken?

Very thankful for your time/help. Smiley


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December 17, 2013, 07:14:04 AM
 #1232

Looks to be the case, yeah. The R fuse is actually 8A, pretty sure; the blue-board blades came with 10A fuses. There ought be no problem using that current rating. If you don't have any SMD fuses handy, test with a 10A automotive blade fuse. If that works, it works; if the test fuse blows, there's something further wrong with the board.

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December 17, 2013, 07:44:48 AM
 #1233

Looks to be the case, yeah. The R fuse is actually 8A, pretty sure; the blue-board blades came with 10A fuses. There ought be no problem using that current rating. If you don't have any SMD fuses handy, test with a 10A automotive blade fuse. If that works, it works; if the test fuse blows, there's something further wrong with the board.
Oh well, I will look for them.
There is an electronic supplier store near to my house.
Thanks for your help.

EDIT:
I made a bridge with a paper clip on fuse terminals and guess what?

I powered it on!
All leds were blinking and could access to the config menu 192.168.1.254:8000 LOL
I'll buy a 10A fuse tomorrow early in the morning.  Grin

Thanks again.-

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December 17, 2013, 05:03:20 PM
 #1234

I thought about suggesting a simple bridge, but if a fuse is blown then it might have been something fairly serious caused it, in which case bridging without a fusible line could cause something to overcurrent and explode.

Good thing that didn't happen, good to hear it seems to be working.

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December 19, 2013, 12:20:51 AM
 #1235

I am having trouble getting my blades up and running in a data center.
They have no DNS.  Does anybody know what I should put in the two fields for primary and secondary DNS?
Not sure about ports either.
Any help appreciated.
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December 20, 2013, 02:34:30 AM
 #1236

I am having trouble getting my blades up and running in a data center.
They have no DNS.  Does anybody know what I should put in the two fields for primary and secondary DNS?
Not sure about ports either.
Any help appreciated.

They must have a router, that's the primary DNS. Secondary can potentially be left blank or 8.8.8.8. Port is the port you connect to the blade on, ie 192.168.1.254:8000

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December 20, 2013, 10:54:03 PM
 #1237

So I got tired of my 8 Blades cluttering up my stats with 8 individual workers and assigned them all the same worker name.  I figured that it was good enough for my 70 USB Erupters and Bitfury boards, why not do it with my Blades

Is that a terrible idea?  If so, why?
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December 21, 2013, 03:01:00 AM
 #1238

Is that a terrible idea?  If so, why?

No, if you have a monitoring solution for each Blade that doesn't rely on the pool

Otherwise you'll always be wondering if that 12.5% percent drop is just variance or faulty Blade.
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December 21, 2013, 07:20:10 AM
 #1239

Hi there.

My blade blew the new 10amp fuse the same day I bought it. I contacted the seller and told him I'll have to send it back. He told me that he was sorry for the issue, and ask me if I want to return it for replace or refund, in deed he gave me the address to return it. Also wanted to know the cost of return shipping in order to refund that amount to me. Well, that was very polite and gentle.

I have not answered him yet. I'm kind of doubtful. I would like to try the blade just a week more so I changed the fuse again, and if it works flawless, then I would keep it.

But now it works a litlle wierd some times. I mean after 8-10 hours of working seem to be freezed. All counters of stats were reset to zero. The ".bat" file of minig proxy stay just waiting or listening for, like freezed, the lines on cmd window dont move. So, I have to restart it manually to make it work again. I happened like 4 or 5 times and I have used it 4 days only.

I had filled DNS with 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4, but now I realized that must be the router IP on primary DNS and 8.8.8.8 (or other) in secondary DNS. I do not know if that have anything to see with the problem.

What do you suggest to me? Keep it and try few more days, or just return it and get a new one.

Thanks in advance.-

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December 21, 2013, 07:23:53 AM
 #1240

I had filled DNS with 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4, but now I realized that must be the router IP on primary DNS and 8.8.8.8 (or other) in secondary DNS. I do not know if that have anything to see with the problem.

Except the very unlikely case where you would be using local names from your local DNS instead of using IP addresses or Internet names, it should not be the cause of any problem
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