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Author Topic: Avalon ASIC users thread  (Read 432443 times)
Sitarow
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June 27, 2013, 08:43:21 PM
 #1421

finding these in the EU is proving to be a struggle.... ordering from aamzon.com will be 20-30days delivery Sad

The problem is that there is too much pressure inside the unit.

The two holes in the back of the unit are not adequate to move the increased cfm of air being moved.

A quick fix would be to remove the power supply from inside the Avalon and having placed on top or beside of the unit.

This will permit for more CFM of air to be pushed out the back and enabling the blue fan to operate at 2300 rpm's

It may not solve the display problem however it will solve the underlying issue.

You can tell that your "Blue" fan is not spinning at its max speed when the temp sensor on the controller reports high temps of 28+
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Sitarow
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June 27, 2013, 08:45:05 PM
 #1422

Thanks. Just ordered a fan off of Amazon. Not seeing the rpm in cgminer kind of bugs me.

Dude,
What i did.
1. Removed PSU outside - Ugly hack
2. The PSU hole was sealed to avoid air out
3. The blue fan unplugged/disconnected
4. Tmp sensor mounted outside
5. Blue fan hole sealed to avoid air out

Result:

All temps went down 3-4 degrees Ambient stays constant air conditioned
Result with latest FW - auto-clock between 357-361

Difficulty Accepted:118964.00000000 1191.43/m 85285.68Mhs ACCEPTED BY THE POOL
Up time:   1h 39m 51s

And I am Happy Thanks CON!!!







Nice and good results also risky leaving it on auto Smiley but nice results non the less
loshia
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June 27, 2013, 08:48:31 PM
 #1423

Thanks. Just ordered a fan off of Amazon. Not seeing the rpm in cgminer kind of bugs me.

Dude,
What i did.
1. Removed PSU outside - Ugly hack
2. The PSU hole was sealed to avoid air out
3. The blue fan unplugged/disconnected
4. Tmp sensor mounted outside
5. Blue fan hole sealed to avoid air out

Result:

All temps went down 3-4 degrees Ambient stays constant air conditioned
Result with latest FW - auto-clock between 357-361

Difficulty Accepted:118964.00000000 1191.43/m 85285.68Mhs ACCEPTED BY THE POOL
Up time:   1h 39m 51s

And I am Happy Thanks CON!!!







Nice and good results also risky leaving it on auto Smiley but nice results non the less

Yeah I know....It may go up to 450 who knows  Cheesy
It will run for a few more hours and i will leave it at 355 probably Smiley



Please help the Led Boy aka Bicknellski to make us a nice Christmas led tree and pay WASP membership fee here:
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=643999.msg7191563#msg7191563
And remember Bicknellski is not collecting money from community;D
elasticband
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June 27, 2013, 08:53:25 PM
 #1424

finding these in the EU is proving to be a struggle.... ordering from aamzon.com will be 20-30days delivery Sad

The problem is that there is too much pressure inside the unit.

The two holes in the back of the unit are not adequate to move the increased cfm of air being moved.

A quick fix would be to remove the power supply from inside the Avalon and having placed on top or beside of the unit.

This will permit for more CFM of air to be pushed out the back and enabling the blue fan to operate at 2300 rpm's

It may not solve the display problem however it will solve the underlying issue.

You can tell that your "Blue" fan is not spinning at its max speed when the temp sensor on the controller reports high temps of 28+


so the blue fan only opperates at 2300 rpm's? is this it's max? so replacing with a 3000rpm will be good? and better for CFM when black fans are on 4000RPM?
Sitarow
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June 27, 2013, 08:55:47 PM
 #1425

finding these in the EU is proving to be a struggle.... ordering from aamzon.com will be 20-30days delivery Sad

The problem is that there is too much pressure inside the unit.

The two holes in the back of the unit are not adequate to move the increased cfm of air being moved.

A quick fix would be to remove the power supply from inside the Avalon and having placed on top or beside of the unit.

This will permit for more CFM of air to be pushed out the back and enabling the blue fan to operate at 2300 rpm's

It may not solve the display problem however it will solve the underlying issue.

You can tell that your "Blue" fan is not spinning at its max speed when the temp sensor on the controller reports high temps of 28+


so the blue fan only opperates at 2300 rpm's? is this it's max? so replacing with a 3000rpm will be good? and better for CFM when black fans are on 4000RPM?

The problem is that the you need 1 more hole in the back in order to move the cfm of air out of the unit.

This is the issue even if you were to get another black fan running at 3600-4000rpm.
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June 27, 2013, 08:58:46 PM
 #1426

ok cool Smiley why do batch 2 not have this issue?
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June 27, 2013, 08:59:57 PM
 #1427

ok cool Smiley why do batch 2 not have this issue?


gonna have a play with a batch 1 Smiley
loshia
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June 27, 2013, 09:04:13 PM
 #1428

ok cool Smiley why do batch 2 not have this issue?
Because three fans are equal int therms of RPM i guess Smiley But it does not mean that it does not has issue. third fan is useless when power supply is inside. just my opinion. It shall cool of the PSU but there are too many wires before air reaches the PSU. That is what i am thinking.

Do what i did it is ugly wires and sensors outside but it works and PSU gets better cooling when it is outside. I changed stock 650W PSU and when i tried to close the box i just do not have the guts to stick all psu cables inside, which force me to do all this little by little




Please help the Led Boy aka Bicknellski to make us a nice Christmas led tree and pay WASP membership fee here:
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=643999.msg7191563#msg7191563
And remember Bicknellski is not collecting money from community;D
elasticband
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June 27, 2013, 09:06:56 PM
 #1429

a tip to anyone who can find me replacement fans in the EU....... 36000 - 4000 rpm 120mm x 38mm
loshia
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June 27, 2013, 09:09:56 PM
 #1430

a tip to anyone who can find me replacement fans in the EU....... 36000 - 4000 rpm 120mm x 38mm
It is useless dude believe me, and main point is with air it needs to circulate. Which means that if fans are too strong compared to two fan holes for air out you do nothing, because pressure is too big.

If you are keen on fans better idea is to install it in the right hole in th back near psu to suck hot air out





Please help the Led Boy aka Bicknellski to make us a nice Christmas led tree and pay WASP membership fee here:
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=643999.msg7191563#msg7191563
And remember Bicknellski is not collecting money from community;D
elasticband
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June 27, 2013, 09:18:24 PM
 #1431

yes after a little fiddle i see what you mean.... once again i flashed the 19b firmware with max fans on a btach 1..... straight off the blue fan starts to struggle, so i unscrewed the back screws then lifted up the the top a little and this seems to get the blue fan spinning again at a nice speed........ placing the bots upside down on the sides keeps te gap open at a a bolts height around.....

will test it more tomorrow when i get PSU upgrades.... no point in taking it to bits tonight
loshia
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June 27, 2013, 09:23:08 PM
 #1432

yes after a little fiddle i see what you mean.... once again i flashed the 19b firmware with max fans on a btach 1..... straight off the blue fan starts to struggle, so i unscrewed the back screws then lifted up the the top a little and this seems to get the blue fan spinning again at a nice speed........ placing the bots upside down on the sides keeps te gap open at a a bolts height around.....

will test it more tomorrow when i get PSU upgrades.... no point in taking it to bits tonight

Put a lighter/smoke near blue fan and guess what you will find out that air gets out not in that is why the fan is struggling. I went crazy about it i thought i messed the wires or good knows what until i found out
In short at max PWM air gets out from blue fan hole instead in = useless!

Unplug it, move temp sensor outside and seal it






Please help the Led Boy aka Bicknellski to make us a nice Christmas led tree and pay WASP membership fee here:
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=643999.msg7191563#msg7191563
And remember Bicknellski is not collecting money from community;D
yantis
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June 27, 2013, 09:34:18 PM
 #1433

Careful upgrading to the latest firmware. I just bricked one of my units. It basically just got stuck at "OpenWrt - Flashing" and never recovered.
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June 27, 2013, 09:38:04 PM
 #1434

Careful upgrading to the latest firmware. I just bricked one of my units. It basically just got stuck at "OpenWrt - Flashing" and never recovered.

Also no shell access anymore?
loshia
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June 27, 2013, 09:40:55 PM
 #1435

Careful upgrading to the latest firmware. I just bricked one of my units. It basically just got stuck at "OpenWrt - Flashing" and never recovered.

Also no shell access anymore?


Low mem issue? Did you check your free memory before upgrade. If wifi modules were loaded shit can happen

Remove wifi modules, disable cgminer from startup+monitoring script, reboot the unit before next upgrade make sure there is enough memory and then upgrade, enable what you need and go



Please help the Led Boy aka Bicknellski to make us a nice Christmas led tree and pay WASP membership fee here:
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=643999.msg7191563#msg7191563
And remember Bicknellski is not collecting money from community;D
jddebug
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June 27, 2013, 09:41:17 PM
 #1436

Careful upgrading to the latest firmware. I just bricked one of my units. It basically just got stuck at "OpenWrt - Flashing" and never recovered.

yantis,

Is it possible to recover from that somehow?
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June 27, 2013, 09:45:29 PM
 #1437

I upgraded lots of my units without a problem. Just had two issues. One 750 Power supply blew out and on another unit I bricked it on a firmware upgrade. Researching now how to fix it unless anyone here knows (I don't think it was a memory issue as my other 17 units are all basically the same).
loshia
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June 27, 2013, 09:52:09 PM
 #1438

I upgraded lots of my units without a problem. Just had two issues. One 750 Power supply blew out and on another unit I bricked it on a firmware upgrade. Researching now how to fix it unless anyone here knows (I don't think it was a memory issue as my other 17 units are all basically the same).

Yes same but it is always good idea to make sure there is free memory. I am not sure if you will be able to fix it without FLASH programer+Socket (unless boot loader is alive and there is recovery tftp procedure search openwrt/tplink forums). Try to mine with PC or make sure that there is no power in the usb cable from your broken unit and plug it in the hub of the other units. cgminer should be fine with two avalons connected to single WR703

Please help the Led Boy aka Bicknellski to make us a nice Christmas led tree and pay WASP membership fee here:
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=643999.msg7191563#msg7191563
And remember Bicknellski is not collecting money from community;D
Sitarow
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June 27, 2013, 09:54:14 PM
 #1439

I upgraded lots of my units without a problem. Just had two issues. One 750 Power supply blew out and on another unit I bricked it on a firmware upgrade. Researching now how to fix it unless anyone here knows (I don't think it was a memory issue as my other 17 units are all basically the same).

See if this helps

http://wiki.openwrt.org/doc/howto/generic.sysupgrade#luci.web.upgrade.process

what you can do for now is plug it into your laptop computer and run cgminer 3.3.1 it should hot plug if you have a Ubuntu destro.
Do not forget to remove the jumper in order to stop power going to the usb port.
Sitarow
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June 27, 2013, 10:22:29 PM
 #1440

yes after a little fiddle i see what you mean.... once again i flashed the 19b firmware with max fans on a btach 1..... straight off the blue fan starts to struggle, so i unscrewed the back screws then lifted up the the top a little and this seems to get the blue fan spinning again at a nice speed........ placing the bots upside down on the sides keeps te gap open at a a bolts height around.....

will test it more tomorrow when i get PSU upgrades.... no point in taking it to bits tonight

that also works rather well.

I did the same thing and adjusted it to the proper gap and it cooled down the unit a few degrees however it is not a permanent solution.
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