[Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive ASICMiner Blade Setup

[dogie]

Hey all, I am trying to get mine running and getting connectivity issues.

I am using a laptop with a wireless connection and its wired connection to the blade. I have set up internet connection sharing, but can't seem to find it using 192.168.1.254 in a browser.

In my network connections, I've been getting "limited or no connectivity" on it, but browsing is still working on the laptop.

It's a messy setup, but it's not feasible to connect right to the router unless I rewire my house (I planned to do this at some point so the router is exactly in the middle of my house but that's a while away)

Any ideas here? My laptop is running winXP btw. I can provide screenshots of anything if needed.

You won't find it in the browser because your laptop is looking on the 'hot' network, where the blade ISN'T. I was trying something similar with Avalons because I was on a connection which needed signing in on.

If you disable wireless on the laptop, you should be able to connect to the blade. Then enable wireless and it *might* hash but you won't be able to get to the interface.

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[dropt]

Its the equivalent of saying you can ram 10V through a processor - as long as the power delivery is the same. No, just no.

No, no it's not.  I haven't seen a schematic to verify that something isn't pulling right off the 12Vdc supply before de-regulation, but the theory that you cannot put more than 12Vdc is BS.  

Here's an arbitrary example:

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/LA5744TP-TL-E/LA5744TP-TL-E-ND/2748200

Oh my, would you look at that.  Variable output up to ~1.23Vdc.  Oh man, looks like it would work great with a +12Vdc supply.  Wait a second.. is that what I think it is??  No frickin' way... IT WORKS AT +28Vdc input too!   How about that?!

[dogie]

Its the equivalent of saying you can ram 10V through a processor - as long as the power delivery is the same. No, just no.

No, no it's not.  I haven't seen a schematic to verify that something isn't pulling right off the 12Vdc supply before de-regulation, but the theory that you cannot put more than 12Vdc is BS. 

Here's an arbitrary example:

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/LA5744TP-TL-E/LA5744TP-TL-E-ND/2748200

Oh my, would you look at that.  Variable output up to ~1.23Vdc.  Oh man, looks like it would work great with a +12Vdc supply.  Wait a second.. is that what I think it is??  No frickin' way... IT WORKS AT +28Vdc input too!   How about that?!

You can keep linking to random things, but as we've already said several times, blades require 12V ONLY.

[dropt]

blades require 12V ONLY.

Prove it, should be simple.

EDIT: Real proof.  Not some hearsay BS.

[dogie]

blades require 12V ONLY.

Prove it, should be simple.

EDIT: Real proof.  Not some hearsay BS.

Wait, remind me why I care again? I don't. Why don't you prove otherwise seeing as you're the one claiming hearsay BS.

[ACeZ]

Can't we all get along?

Anyway, I'm going to run it in a different location and going to try a hub. For now for the setup, I'm running right off the router and able to see the config page. Progress!

Since I have many devices on my network, I thought it would be a good idea to go up higher in IP. I made my address 192.168.2.200 to access it and got a confirmation that it was going to restart. Only problem is that now I can't access with that IP. Does the address NEED to be 192.168.1.* on my network?

EDIT: Figured it out. Had to change my gateway in my router to access it. Will be changing that back.

[BigJon901]

blades require 12V ONLY.

Prove it, should be simple.

EDIT: Real proof.  Not some hearsay BS.

Wait, remind me why I care again? I don't. Why don't you prove otherwise seeing as you're the one claiming hearsay BS.

Technically dropt is correct. The blade has something called a voltage regulator (DC-DC). This device takes the input voltage and provides the correct output voltage. It has a certain efficiency as there will be a loss of current for providing a lower voltage than recommended and if the voltage is higher than recommended it must dissipate this extra wattage as heat. Use Ohms law for a guesstimate of potential loss/gain.

Current(I)
Voltage(V)
Resistance(R)
Power(P)

I=V/R
P=V*I

-B.S. Science in Engineering Technology concentration Computer Engineering Technology

[dogie]

blades require 12V ONLY.

Prove it, should be simple.

EDIT: Real proof.  Not some hearsay BS.

Wait, remind me why I care again? I don't. Why don't you prove otherwise seeing as you're the one claiming hearsay BS.

Technically dropt is correct. The blade has something called a voltage regulator (DC-DC). This device takes the input voltage and provides the correct output voltage. It has a certain efficiency as there will be a loss of current for providing a lower voltage than recommended and if the voltage is higher than recommended it must dissipate this extra wattage as heat. Use Ohms law for a guesstimate of potential loss/gain.

Current(I)
Voltage(V)
Resistance(R)
Power(P)

I=V/R
P=V*I

-B.S. Science in Engineering Technology concentration Computer Engineering Technology

Wait what? You just answered a question that was never asked, and is totally irrelevant to the issue in hand. I raise you a fucking masters in engineering if you want to play that game...

[dropt]

Wait what? You just answered a question that was never asked, and is totally irrelevant to the issue in hand. I raise you a fucking masters in engineering if you want to play that game...

See below.

Like hell you have a masters in Engineering from MIT if you don't know simple concepts of DC/DC regulation.  Right up there with that thread where you're going off about putting tape over the holes of the Avalon to increase cooling and decrease noise.  Get a grip.  You're a terrible engineer and have obviously learned nothing about the ethics you're supposed to have.  You should not be commenting on things in the capacity of an engineer when you're not trained in said topics, which you're very apparently not.

Edit:  Almost everyone that I know that went on to do a masters did it because their grades and personality were such shit they couldn't land a job.  Sounds like you're one of those.

As far as power, I can get the same effect applying 24 volts correct?

I have 24 volt - 15 amp lab power supply that I'd like to use.

At 24 Volts it should take 5 amps per to get the 120 watts.

Or am I way off base?

NO. This is not how electronics work. Do not use anything but 12V.

So tell us again about a question that was never asked?  

[dogie]

Wait what? You just answered a question that was never asked, and is totally irrelevant to the issue in hand. I raise you a fucking masters in engineering if you want to play that game...

See below.

As far as power, I can get the same effect applying 24 volts correct?

I have 24 volt - 15 amp lab power supply that I'd like to use.

At 24 Volts it should take 5 amps per to get the 120 watts.

Or am I way off base?

NO. This is not how electronics work. Do not use anything but 12V.

So tell us again about a question that was never asked? 

LOL. Yes we are aware of V=IR and P=IV, thanks for that nursery level electronics. The debate is whether you can feed in 24V into a 12V blade without blowing it up - which you can't.

[dropt]

LOL. Yes we are aware of V=IR and P=IV, thanks for that nursery level electronics. The debate is whether you can feed in 24V into a 12V blade without blowing it up - which you can't.

You quoted the wrong person Einstein.  Again: prove it.

[Trongersoll]

Look, this back and forth is just stupid. When people argue in a forum no one wins. Somebody just do it and post their results. If you think you can put a higher voltage in, then do it an prove it. If you don't think it will work, or you don't want to risk destroying your Blade, then don't do it.

Just quit the senseless arguing over opinions.

[bcp19]

NO. This is not how electronics work. Do not use anything but 12V.

What do you know about electronics?  What's the P/N of the DC/DC Regulator?  You might very well be able to throw 24VDC at it.

Applying 24VDC to a regulator expecting 12VDC is never a good idea.  The purpose behind a regulator is to produce a consistant output even with minor variations in the input.  This generally means you can work with 10-14VDC and see no ill effects, but expecting it to reliably work when you double the voltage is not exactly smart.

[dropt]

Applying 24VDC to a regulator expecting 12VDC is never a good idea.  The purpose behind a regulator is to produce a consistant output even with minor variations in the input.  This generally means you can work with 10-14VDC and see no ill effects, but expecting it to reliably work when you double the voltage is not exactly smart.

I both agree and disagree.  That's why I asked for the part number of the DC/DC regulator, because that will dispel most "opinion" from the conversation.  That's all I asked for.

[dropt]

Look, this back and forth is just stupid. When people argue in a forum no one wins. Somebody just do it and post their results. If you think you can put a higher voltage in, then do it an prove it. If you don't think it will work, or you don't want to risk destroying your Blade, then don't do it.

Just quit the senseless arguing over opinions.

If I had a blade I would have done so already.  If someone *is* going to try it, first check the P/N of the regulator to find its supply range.  If the range includes the higher voltage, check the datasheet to verify the required trimming resistance and/or back off the trimpot and slowly start increasing the supply so you don't inadvertently output >1.2Vdc.

[BigJon901]

This guy is nuts....I'm not here to be confrontational. Just saying man IF the regulator supports 10-24 or some other arbitrary range you CAN input that voltage. End of story. And if you do have a masters then you should know this...

[dogie]

Look, this back and forth is just stupid. When people argue in a forum no one wins. Somebody just do it and post their results. If you think you can put a higher voltage in, then do it an prove it. If you don't think it will work, or you don't want to risk destroying your Blade, then don't do it.

Just quit the senseless arguing over opinions.

+1

NO. This is not how electronics work. Do not use anything but 12V.

What do you know about electronics?  What's the P/N of the DC/DC Regulator?  You might very well be able to throw 24VDC at it.

Applying 24VDC to a regulator expecting 12VDC is never a good idea.  The purpose behind a regulator is to produce a consistant output even with minor variations in the input.  This generally means you can work with 10-14VDC and see no ill effects, but expecting it to reliably work when you double the voltage is not exactly smart.

+1

This guy is nuts....I'm not here to be confrontational. Just saying man IF the regulator supports 10-24 or some other arbitrary range you CAN input that voltage. End of story. And if you do have a masters then you should know this...

If my car had wings, it could attempt to fly. It doesn't, so it can't. We're not talking about theoreticals, we have blades. That guy was saying it was okay to another user to put 24V into his blade - NOT 'could an electronic device handle 24V'. He was risking someone elses hardware. Look at the original question that was asked:

As far as power, I can get the same effect applying 24 volts correct?

I have 24 volt - 15 amp lab power supply that I'd like to use.

At 24 Volts it should take 5 amps per to get the 120 watts.

Or am I way off base?

Not a theoretical, can my blade take 24V? [answer no, other guy claiming yes *sigh*]

[Xian01]

Out of curiosity, does anyone have photos of the new USB Blades ? Have they shipped out to customers yet ?

[dropt]

Not a theoretical, can my blade take 24V? [answer no, other guy claiming yes *sigh*]

Which raises the question, Mr. Master of (BS) Engineering:  what's the part number of the DC/DC regulator?  A proper engineer would have that answer, if you don't and you don't absolutely know, say: "I don't know for sure, but I wouldn't advise it."  How hard would that be?   Stop deflecting, what's the P/N of the regulator?  Either you aren't telling us because you don't know, or because you're wrong.

Edit: It *is* a theoretical question.  Your ignorance regarding this is astounding.  Quit pulling the engineer card if you're not going to act like one.

[LHB]

Very helpful for the hardware side of getting these blades up and mining. I'm sure you've save me and hundreds of others a lot time, effort and money.

I've got my hardware all wired up and working. but I am still clueless how to get these things connected to a pool. I've been searching all day for some step-by-step, concise instructions for (an obviously mentally challenged) newbie miner??

 seems more like Fight Club. if it wasn't for you all on this site, I'd have never got the hardware set-up. not even 1 picture or sentence of instruction came with the blades. the (1 page) diagram online is a joke. are you telling me that even an experienced miner or programmer is going to deduce all the information needed to set a blade up from that one page??? let alone someone new to mining.

and, I know this is international dealing with different languages, but an online guide could be translated or something. even some Ikea type hieroglyphics would be better than nothing. if it's that much of a secret, who's palm needs greasing or ass needs to be kissed to be sponsored, hazed, taught the secret handshake and finely gain admittance to the inner circle of knowledge? I'm at a loss. this is my 3rd day
with the blades in-hand. the power and IP connection were fairly easy with this thread........now we (some? at least me!) need the rest!!
    

thanks
LongHairBri